One Coach Fire

david l greenberg

New member
Apr 13, 1998
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I am forwarding this to the Net cause this fire could have been avoided
by lifting the hatch and checking for fumes before starting the engine.
We always did this on the boats in addition to using the blowers. But
boat engines are in closed compartments and MH engines are not.

Besides it is too darned inconvenient. In my case I would have to move a
TV, VCR, and a Sat Receiver and undo all the attendant cabling. But it
most likely would have saved this coach.

Thought someone might be interested. Even though fires are rare they do
happen.
David Lee Greenberg
GMC Motorhome Registry
Dedicated To The Preservation Of The GMC Classic!
www.gmcss.com/registry.htm

- --------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "carrano"
To:
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 18:23:24 -0600
Subject: Re: GMC Registry
Message-ID:
References:

Hello Dave; I found the Netz's address in the trash from the fire and
gave them a call. The fire was apparently from a broken or popped off
fuel line from the electric fuel pump. Eldon indicated that he had
started the engine to warm it up while he was packing away his gear - the
engine quit and he kept stowing gear. When he finally got back into the
coach and tried to restart it - it blew the hatch open. The fuel must
have been pumping onto the side of the engine and the spark set it off.
The fire was very hot due to the added fuel until the battery died. There
was nothing left of the front half except the floor and the springs and
frames from the seats.
I am definitely going to check mine out very carefully to avoid any
fires. I hope this helps you. I plan to swap some of the rear bogie
parts
to my other coach - also I think, but haven't checked yet, that it has
wallace hubs on the front. Do you have any experience with them? I'd
like to try them if they are good.
I have to go. Bye now and thanks for the note. Good Luck.
Jim Carrano
 
The lesson here is that the electric fuel pump should have had a safety to
prevent its continued pumping if the engine is not running. All factory
systems do this; EFI systems monitor the ignition's tach signal.

The usual way to accomplish this with a carbureted vehicle is with a
pressure switch in series with the fuel pump that senses oil pressure---if
oil pressure is lost, as in the engine dying, power is interrupted to the
electric fuel pump.

A pity. Good to hear that it was "only" the loss of the coach though, and
not life.

Travis

> I am forwarding this to the Net cause this fire could have been avoided
> by lifting the hatch and checking for fumes before starting the engine.
> We always did this on the boats in addition to using the blowers. But
> boat engines are in closed compartments and MH engines are not.
>
> Besides it is too darned inconvenient. In my case I would have to move a
> TV, VCR, and a Sat Receiver and undo all the attendant cabling. But it
> most likely would have saved this coach.
>
> Thought someone might be interested. Even though fires are rare they do
> happen.
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> Dedicated To The Preservation Of The GMC Classic!
> www.gmcss.com/registry.htm
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "carrano"
> To:
> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 18:23:24 -0600
> Subject: Re: GMC Registry
> Message-ID:
> References:
>
> Hello Dave; I found the Netz's address in the trash from the fire and
> gave them a call. The fire was apparently from a broken or popped off
> fuel line from the electric fuel pump. Eldon indicated that he had
> started the engine to warm it up while he was packing away his gear - the
> engine quit and he kept stowing gear. When he finally got back into the
> coach and tried to restart it - it blew the hatch open. The fuel must
> have been pumping onto the side of the engine and the spark set it off.
> The fire was very hot due to the added fuel until the battery died. There
> was nothing left of the front half except the floor and the springs and
> frames from the seats.
> I am definitely going to check mine out very carefully to avoid any
> fires. I hope this helps you. I plan to swap some of the rear bogie
> parts
> to my other coach - also I think, but haven't checked yet, that it has
> wallace hubs on the front. Do you have any experience with them? I'd
> like to try them if they are good.
> I have to go. Bye now and thanks for the note. Good Luck.
> Jim Carrano
 
Just right. This is like the transmission vent, it is something you should
do first...... This could burn you down.

I list on my web page, two ways to wire the electric fuel pump so it will
only run when the engine is running.

Even if you have a switch on your electric pump, you still need this cut
off!!!!!!

gene

>The lesson here is that the electric fuel pump should have had a safety to
>prevent its continued pumping if the engine is not running. All factory
>systems do this; EFI systems monitor the ignition's tach signal.
>
>The usual way to accomplish this with a carbureted vehicle is with a
>pressure switch in series with the fuel pump that senses oil pressure---if
>oil pressure is lost, as in the engine dying, power is interrupted to the
>electric fuel pump.
>
>A pity. Good to hear that it was "only" the loss of the coach though, and
>not life.
>
>Travis
>
>
>> I am forwarding this to the Net cause this fire could have been avoided
>> by lifting the hatch and checking for fumes before starting the engine.
>> We always did this on the boats in addition to using the blowers. But
>> boat engines are in closed compartments and MH engines are not.
>>
>> Besides it is too darned inconvenient. In my case I would have to move a
>> TV, VCR, and a Sat Receiver and undo all the attendant cabling. But it
>> most likely would have saved this coach.
>>
>> Thought someone might be interested. Even though fires are rare they do
>> happen.
>> David Lee Greenberg
>> GMC Motorhome Registry
>> Dedicated To The Preservation Of The GMC Classic!
>> www.gmcss.com/registry.htm
>>
>> --------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: "carrano"
>> To:
>> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 18:23:24 -0600
>> Subject: Re: GMC Registry
>> Message-ID:
>> References:
>>
>> Hello Dave; I found the Netz's address in the trash from the fire and
>> gave them a call. The fire was apparently from a broken or popped off
>> fuel line from the electric fuel pump. Eldon indicated that he had
>> started the engine to warm it up while he was packing away his gear - the
>> engine quit and he kept stowing gear. When he finally got back into the
>> coach and tried to restart it - it blew the hatch open. The fuel must
>> have been pumping onto the side of the engine and the spark set it off.
>> The fire was very hot due to the added fuel until the battery died. There
>> was nothing left of the front half except the floor and the springs and
>> frames from the seats.
>> I am definitely going to check mine out very carefully to avoid any
>> fires. I hope this helps you. I plan to swap some of the rear bogie
>> parts
>> to my other coach - also I think, but haven't checked yet, that it has
>> wallace hubs on the front. Do you have any experience with them? I'd
>> like to try them if they are good.
>> I have to go. Bye now and thanks for the note. Good Luck.
>> Jim Carrano
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
>I am forwarding this to the Net cause this fire could have been avoided

A relay connected to an oil pressure switch should be used to shut down an=
=20
electric fuel pump whenever the engine stalls. Use a momentary contact=20
push-button to bypass the relay when priming. Its never a good idea to=20
connect an electric fuel pump to a power source that doesn't go off when=20
the engine stalls.

Another (maybe easier) trick is to use the center post of the battery=20
isolator to power the fuel pump. That way when the engine stalls the pump=20
quits. In this case you will need a double pole momentary contact switch.=20
The pump is attached to the center contact, the normally closed=20
position is attached to the center post of the battery isolator and the=20
normally open post is attached to the battery post on the battery isolator.=
=20
Pressing the switch will operate the pump to prime the carb. When the=20
switch is released the pump will only operate if the alternator is working.=
=20
As an option you can use a switch with a center off position. That will=20
allow the pump to be turned off, even when the engine is operating.

In all cases the electric fuel pump should be fused.

Dave
Ann Arbor, MI.
73 Sequoia (26'/455/EFI/HEI/160=B0)