Onan

[steven d. ferguson]

What next? After reading all the archives (whew) I decided that
replacing the low oil pressure cut-out switch would solve my oil leakage
problems. At $8.08 plus 30 min. of labor this was an easy deal.
However, the leak is still there. Because of the turbulance behind the
blower it's impossible to see where it is coming from. The Onan has
about 1,000 hours on it so there should be plenty of life left in it.
Anyone?
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII San Diego

 

[richard waters]

In my case I could see oil dripping out of the switch. Of course
I had the cover off the cylinder head. The new "wrong" switch
seems to have fixed the leak. Before I checked this out, I gave
the front of the Onan a good cleaning. There was a lot of crud
in there. So far no new oil, but then again I've only run it about
30 minutes since I cleaned it. I'm pretty sure I'll see if I still
have a leak I would see the approximate place it was coming from.
Richard

> What next? After reading all the archives (whew) I decided that
> replacing the low oil pressure cut-out switch would solve my oil leakage
> problems. At $8.08 plus 30 min. of labor this was an easy deal.
> However, the leak is still there. Because of the turbulance behind the
> blower it's impossible to see where it is coming from. The Onan has
> about 1,000 hours on it so there should be plenty of life left in it.
> Anyone?
> Steve Ferguson
> '76 EII San Diego

 

[rob teed]

Hi Steve,
I have a 74 GMC with a 4000watt onan. We took the coach
from Michigan to Florida. Used the genset to run the
roof air. It ran great until we reached Key west. Then
it shut down. I found an oil leak around the bracket
that holds the oil filter on. There is a support
bracket behind the oil filter bracket...Two studs in
the engine block hold both brackets together. My guess
is that the nut came loose on the top stud and the
support bracket worked loose...Causing a hammering
effect behind the nuts which in turn wore the threads
off the top stud. When I found the leak the top nut
was loose. I put a socket on it and tried to tighten
it up. It just spun around. My first guess was that
the previous owner had stripped the stud threads off.
After taking it apart I figured the support bracket
was the cause. Make sure the nuts are tight on your
Oil filter bracket. Also I can tell you theres two
gaskets on there. one between the engine block and
support bracket then the one between the support bracket
and oil filter bracket. This seems like a week spot on
the onan genset. I can see where there will be others
with the same problem.
Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert

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[steven d. ferguson]

Wayne,
I haven't tried holding the kill switch any longer than what it took
to make me think it wasn't going to work.
Air tunnel? Do you mean the housing that goes from the air cleaner to
the carb, or the cooling shroud? If you're talking about the air
cleaner to carb housing, how could a critter get in there with the air
cleaner on?
Steve

BTDT. Somestimes you have to hold the kill switch for an awful long
time,
especially if it is hot. I was having a hard time last year and Duane
worked on my unit at Marion (that alone was worth the price of
admission
at GMCI). A lot of twiking and some oil and it worked a lot better.
What
he didn't find, because we didn't do a lot of disassembly, was a large
amount of dibris packed into the air tunnlel (squirrls nest?). At first

when I saw it, I thought it was a dirty air filter - then I started to
read
the manuel. Onan had offered to remove the unit from the coach and do a

major for major money. 2 trips there and they didn't catch it (at least

didn't tell me about it). After cleaning it out, the unit can now cool
itself.
Several times now, I have run it for several days at a time, stopping it

for an hour to cool down and check the oil. Starts and stops from the
inside just fine, now.

Wayne Newland

 

[steven d. ferguson]

Emery,
Not properly. I loosened it up and sprayed some contact cleaner on
it. I thought that was the "fix" since afterwards I could start if from
the remote switch whereas before, I couldn't. I'll take it apart & do
it right!
Thanks.
Steve Ferguson
San Diego

Steve -- did you take the connector that attaches the remote wires to
the
Onan apart and clean the terminals?

 

[wayne newland]

Steve

Cooling shroud. Sorry I didn't make myself clearer.

Wayne

> Wayne,
> I haven't tried holding the kill switch any longer than what it took
> to make me think it wasn't going to work.
> Air tunnel? Do you mean the housing that goes from the air cleaner to
> the carb, or the cooling shroud? If you're talking about the air
> cleaner to carb housing, how could a critter get in there with the air
> cleaner on?
> Steve
>
> BTDT. Somestimes you have to hold the kill switch for an awful long
> time,
> especially if it is hot. I was having a hard time last year and Duane
> worked on my unit at Marion (that alone was worth the price of
> admission
> at GMCI). A lot of twiking and some oil and it worked a lot better.
> What
> he didn't find, because we didn't do a lot of disassembly, was a large
> amount of dibris packed into the air tunnlel (squirrls nest?). At first
>
> when I saw it, I thought it was a dirty air filter - then I started to
> read
> the manuel. Onan had offered to remove the unit from the coach and do a
>
> major for major money. 2 trips there and they didn't catch it (at least
>
> didn't tell me about it). After cleaning it out, the unit can now cool
> itself.
> Several times now, I have run it for several days at a time, stopping it
>
> for an hour to cool down and check the oil. Starts and stops from the
> inside just fine, now.
>
> Wayne Newland

 

[diamondlouis]

What causes the onan to run only when the start button is held in. Quits as
soon as the button is released.
confused again in ohio.

L. Diamond
76 PB

 

[cbwood]

>Gene Hyche

Where are you located (physically) and what would you want for ur old OhNan??

CBWood
77 Kingsley
MWC OK

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