Onan

P

patrick flowers

New member
Sep 19, 1997
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>
> In a message dated 4/23/99 6:51:08 PM Central Daylight Time, HLBF

>
> >
> > DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> > You do not wash an Onan.
> > Lanier
> >
> Lanier
>
> This is not an acceptable answer. So what do I have to remove so
> I can clean this ball of oil and dirt that they say is my genset? Please!
>
> Take Care
> Arch 76 GB IL

Enquiring minds want to know! d;o)

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patrick

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
I guess I learned this fact the hard way! I can't believe this message
appeared
within minutes of my finding out that I may have messed my Onan up by washing
it down!

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- ---

> >
> > In a message dated 4/23/99 6:51:08 PM Central Daylight Time, HLBF

> >
> > >
> > > DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> > > You do not wash an Onan.
> > > Lanier
> > >
> > Lanier
> >
> > This is not an acceptable answer. So what do I have to remove so
> > I can clean this ball of oil and dirt that they say is my genset? Please!
> >
> > Take Care
> > Arch 76 GB IL
>
> Enquiring minds want to know! d;o)
>
> Patrick
> --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto:patrick
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Thanks Scott,
Well at least you had the insight to ask how to clean your Onan. I just
went ahead and did it. I cleaned it just like I do my Onan powered garden
tractor. By not thinking and asking, I probably will spend a hundred
dollars or more getting a new control board. I suppose I could repair it, but I
would
spend more in my time then it would cost to just buy one.

Oh well, live and learn or I learn stuff the hard way!
Richard Waters '76 Troy, MI

> Hi Richard and others!
>
> Previously I posted to the net asking how to clean the Onan. I got one,
> "Don't wash it" and another "that's not what he want's to hear". I can't
> believe that out of the 78 e-mails I had when got back, I got these two,
> about my Onan cleaning.
 
Emery, your info was too late!
I dropped of the coach at Cinnabar yesterday (Sunday)
to have a badly leaking exhaust manifold repaired. I was only 25
miles away from Sandusky when it blew so I made the decision to drop
it off because I didn't want to mess with a leaking exhaust manifold at this
point in my upgrade efforts.

Anyway, Ivan was out cutting the grass and saw me limping in and
wrote me up for the manifold. They are also going to calibrate the
carburetor because apparently too lean a mixture will cause the
manifold to fail again.

I told him "while you're at it you might as well replace the control board
for the Onan". I called him this morning after I read your informative
post to cancel the Onan work. Unfortunately, they had already replaced
the board. How's that for quick service? Too bad for me.

At least I'll get the old board back. I'll repair it and have a spare one
for the next time.

Thanks anyway,
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- -----

>
> Richard - you might just remove the board (carefully marking the wires so
> they go to the proper terminals). Check all of the push on terminals because
> these often get look from the wires and do not make good connections. I have
> soldered all my terminals. Look at the back side. You might find one of the
> circuit board wires burned out. If so, you can bridge it with it with a
> small wire soldered in. Check the fuse. About the only thing water could
> get into would be the two relays (pull the plastic covers off them to allow
> them to dry out) and the switch. If you find water in the switch you could
> use a little rubbing alcohol to help absorb the water until it evaporates.
> The resistors and capacitors are all sealed so water should not be a problem
> there.
 
>Please give me some input as to how I can clean my Onan to get it ready to
>paint.

I used a garden sprayer filled with kerosene. I gently sprayed the oily
parts and used a small scrub brush to work the caked dirt loose. Works
well, no adverse side effects. Keep in mind that kerosene is quite
flammable. Do this in a well ventilated area and don't start it for a day
or two until the residue has a chance to evaporate. Be sure you cover the
control board. I don't know if the kerosene will harm anything on the
control board but I am reasonably sure that oily dirt dissolved in the
kerosene will do some damage. I just covered mine with a rag and was
careful not to spray the control board directly.

>I have a high pressure, hot-hot, capable pressure washer but

I don't think I would use a high pressure sprayer. The pressure will blast
oil and dirt into everything and probably cause more problems than it worth.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
While I was in to drop my coach off at Cinnabar yesterday Ivan told
me they always! And he repeated always! Remove the control board
before they clean anything near the generator. I guess that means they are
pretty delicate.
Richard Waters, '76 PB, Troy, MI

> >Please give me some input as to how I can clean my Onan to get it ready to
> >paint.
>
> I used a garden sprayer filled with kerosene. I gently sprayed the oily
> parts and used a small scrub brush to work the caked dirt loose. Works
> well, no adverse side effects. Keep in mind that kerosene is quite
> flammable. Do this in a well ventilated area and don't start it for a day
> or two until the residue has a chance to evaporate. Be sure you cover the
> control board. I don't know if the kerosene will harm anything on the
> control board but I am reasonably sure that oily dirt dissolved in the
> kerosene will do some damage. I just covered mine with a rag and was
> careful not to spray the control board directly.
>
> >I have a high pressure, hot-hot, capable pressure washer but
>
> I don't think I would use a high pressure sprayer. The pressure will blast
> oil and dirt into everything and probably cause more problems than it worth.
>
> Dave
> 73 Sequoia
 
>>I have a high pressure, hot-hot, capable pressure washer but

>I don't think I would use a high pressure sprayer. The pressure will

A sprayed clean Onan is a dead Onan.

- --
John 74 Glacier
 
I wish I had the schematic or description of the function of this rectifier
bridge; I'm sure a generic replacement would be readily available.

"Parts is parts" when it comes to rectifiers...kinda like bolts and nuts. If
it will mount, then you only need to worry about minimum ratings. The two
that matter are its current carrying capacity and its peak inverse voltage
rating. In both cases, more is better.

I'm assuming this bridge is used to rectify the output of the Onan's
alternator for battery charging? If so, 50 volts for the PRV is adequate,
and I doubt it's capable of more than 25 amps. If so, this is a readily
available part.

I'll have to dig up a URL, but All Electronics has a great selection of
these and a lot of other electronic parts at surplus prices. They by
overstocks and surplus and sell it quite reasonably.

This won't help Scott much since he's already bought one, and I doubt it's a
very common part to have fail...most silicon rectifiers rarely fail unless
overstressed considerably. So this may be "much ado about nothing"

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Adohen
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan

>In a message dated 5/1/99 6:27:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

>
>> If so, does anyone have any numbers off one?
>
>Hi Rick!
>
>Normally I read the numbers off the old bearing and get the replacement
>however since I used heat and the bearing was quite rusty, no numbers could
>be read! Now we have some numbers to use.
>
>The bridge rectifier is approx 1 3/32 x 1 3/32 and has Initials MS and the
#
>305-0517
>this part was also from Onan.
>
>Scott http://www.pituitary.com/ t=_self]PTNA Home Page[/url]
>http://smsgmc.webjump.com t=_self]Zak's Project[/url]
>
 
>
> I wish I had the schematic or description of the function of this rectifier
> bridge; I'm sure a generic replacement would be readily available.

Travis,

It's been a while, but I'm sure there's something in the archives about
a generic replacement rectifier bridge. Try starting around April 98.
Here's where Sandy's index will come in handy.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patrick

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Scott

Found this which might be interesting in the archives:
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 16:46:43 EDT
From:
Subject: GMC: Onan generator bridge rectifier

New to this net, hope this info is not redundant.

My Onan 6KW generator stopped producing 120 volt power. Per the repair
manuals, I found my bridge rectifier to be bad. Onan, and Onan distributors
sell their replacement part for about $30. Being a electrical nut I figured I
could find a cross referenced part directly from a major semiconductor
supplier much cheaper. The number on the part didn't cross directly, but I
found an equivalent part (physically) with reasonable voltage and current
values from Mouser Electronics (800-346-6873) for about $6. They are a great
company that has no minimum order, same day shipping and doesn't mind retail
folks like us. The part number is 583-MP354. Or just tell them you want a 35
amp single phase Bridge Rectifier.

The catch. The male tab connectors are oriented somewhat differently. I
removed the tab connectors from the nylon connector holder and hooked them up
directly, and used a bolt and nut to reattach the part vs the self tapping
screw that held the nylon connector thingy. About a 5 minute job with a VERY
small screwdriver.

If you can't deal with the "catch" then order an NTE5342 (a NTE5340 should
also work). Also available from Mouser, but they have to order it also and it
will take an extra week or so, and it'll be about $10 or so. That part should
match EXACTLY.

If you live in a large city, the NTE number will cross to whatever some local
supplier will have in stock usually.

Mike Danford (judyd)
1977 Palm Beach
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope this helps

bdub

>In a message dated 5/1/99 6:27:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,

>
>> If so, does anyone have any numbers off one?
>
>Hi Rick!
>
>Normally I read the numbers off the old bearing and get the replacement
>however since I used heat and the bearing was quite rusty, no numbers could
>be read! Now we have some numbers to use.
>
>The bridge rectifier is approx 1 3/32 x 1 3/32 and has Initials MS and the #
>305-0517
>this part was also from Onan.
>
>Scott http://www.pituitary.com/ t=_self]PTNA Home Page[/url]
>http://smsgmc.webjump.com t=_self]Zak's Project[/url]
>
 
Hi all
This message was posted last year.

Digikey sells these bridges #MB2510WMS-ND FOR $8.84Can ($5.85US). This is a
Microsemi part. This bridge has wire leads not Stak-On terminals so it
should be easy to fit into a PC board. Digikey has a web page at (surprise)
http://www.digikey.com

You can order on-line from them.

Dave Mumert
dave

>>JUDYD
>>The ONAN's Bridge rectifier can also be substituted w/an after-market
>>Bridge rectifier that has a much higher PRV (peak reverse voltage rating)
>>of 1000 volts. The current rating is 25 amp, which is more than
>>adequate. The 1000 PRV feature will minimize the bridge future failures
>>in the ONAN installation: Bridge Rectifier as follows:
>>mfg NTE Electronics Co p/n NTE5328 cost $8 to $10
>>As noted the pin out is different & therefore the plastic holder can be
>>removed & individual wire attachment can be made. Care must be taken to
>>install the wires on the correct Bridge pins or failure will occur. Once
>>installation is complete & operation is achieved, you should never have
>>(almost never) a repeat failure.

Duane Simmons

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Flowers
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan

> >
> > I wish I had the schematic or description of the function of this
rectifier
> > bridge; I'm sure a generic replacement would be readily available.
>
> Travis,
>
> It's been a while, but I'm sure there's something in the archives about
> a generic replacement rectifier bridge. Try starting around April 98.
> Here's where Sandy's index will come in handy.
>
> Patrick
> --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto:patrick
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
>
 
I would expect that one to work, but that is just an assumption from what I
am guessing the purpose of the rectifier is.

I am assuming it is, in fact, a bridge...I would expect the terminals to be
marked +, -, and two with ~ can anyone verify this?

I have seen them in OEM applications with just a red dot to mark the
positive, with the opposite corner being negative and the two corners
between being the AC input.

I'll drag out an All Electronics catalog tomorrow and see what they have in
case anyone is needing one or wants tohave a spare. The advantage to them is
that it will be a name brand at a Rat Shack price.

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Dolan
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Onan

>Travis...
>
>Based on those assumptions, Radio Shack has a metal case rectifier with
>center mounting hole that is 25 amp 50 volts $2.69 part no 276-1185
>
>> If so, 50 volts for the PRV is adequate, and I doubt it's capable of
>> more than 25 amps.
>
>John
>
>
 
[Admin note - John, this bounced as a "nonmember" post due to the "From"
header being messed up. Patrick]

Travis...

Based on those assumptions, Radio Shack has a metal case rectifier with
center mounting hole that is 25 amp 50 volts $2.69 part no 276-1185

> If so, 50 volts for the PRV is adequate, and I doubt it's capable of > more than 25 amps. If so, this is a readily available part.

John
 
Travis...

Based on those assumptions, Radio Shack has a metal case rectifier with
center mounting hole that is 25 amp 50 volts $2.69 part no 276-1185

> If so, 50 volts for the PRV is adequate, and I doubt it's capable of
> more than 25 amps.

John
 
> I am assuming it is, in fact, a bridge...I would expect the terminals
> to be marked +, -, and two with ~ can anyone verify this?

It is a full wave bridge rectifier, but I can not see the terminals.
>From the picture, it looks to be square. Maybe an inch on a side. It
looks like a metal frame around a piece of silicone formed in the shape
of a Benzene Ring
____
/ \
| o | This is surrounded by a metal frame 1 inch square or so
\____/

They usually are pretty good about marking and diagrams on the back of
the packaging (this is only because their stores would be driven crazy
with questions about which is the positive, etc)

Let us all know if it is even close, because there is always a Radio
Shack store nearby and at $2.69 the price is less than 10% of Onan's.

Regards,
John
 
>

>

>
>

Hi Scott...

Time to take a break from that Onan stuff... Those three hiccups were
only seconds apart, or maybe you better go to full power on your force
fields.

Regards,
John 74 Glacier
 
"Scott the Onan?" Scott, you have become ONE with the Onan?? How Zen! :-)
Will someone near Cleveland drive over and save the man??
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta

>Na! Na! Na Na! Na!
>
>I must have the most beautiful looking original Onan in this whole GMCnet.
>Not bragging just a fact. Not running just a pretty hunk of metal . That's
>about all.
>
>Today, I decided to do my last clean and paint job, the starter. What I
>found is a bad shaft end bushing ( the clutch end). Anybody replace one?
>Numbers?
>
>The other things I would like to replace are the air and breather hoses, any
>comments or fixes out there?
>
>I am looking at a napa hose catalogue for some sort of preformed hoses
>however if someone has already done a replacment it would be appreciated.
>
>Scott the Onan
>
 
Scott, Make sure its grounded and secured then press the start button.

Walter 78 Royale

Two weeks ago I joined the "real men just grab their distributor and
turn to set the timing club". Emery and I discovered a place where the
starter drags. I adjusted just slightly advanced from that point.
Seems to run well.
 
Scott, I'm not that "up" on the Onan, but my guess is that if you tape off
(INSULATE) the leads off the geny (115V)and/or just stay the hell away from
the "hot" side of the geny and make sure the sucker is on a solid surface
before the run, just hook the sucker up to a fuel line (probably gravity), a
battery (WATCH THE SPARK/FUMES THING!) and fire her up. If all you need to
do is test run her, that ought to work.
That's what I'd do.
Dick 75 PB in Atlanta

>Anybody have any input on my post about 6 hrs ago, that follows below?
>
>
>Thanks, Scott HREF="http://members.aol.com/adohen/advice/index.htm">NEHODA'S BACK YARD
>
>
>Subj: Onan
>Date: 5/10/99 3:09:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time
>From: Adohen
>To: gmcmotorhome
>
>
>Gmcers!
>
>I want to bench run my 6000 Onan. It is out of the coach. All wires are
>removed from coach but still attached to Onan, hopefully exactly where I
>removed them from. I would like to test the engine however I am concerned
>about what I need to do. I don't want to get shocked today and I don't want
>to do any harm to the generator. What do I need to do?
>
>Scott HREF="http://members.aol.com/gmcgrlk/club/index.htm">Adohen Scott
>Nehoda (Odds and Ends site)
>
>
 
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