Mine had close to 2,000 hours on it when it quit. Being an electronics guy and not wanting to lose the OEM meter & reading, I decided to look inside.
Getting it apart was a task, had to cut it open. Inside was a badly burn't set of contacts that I assume provided power to a coil to mechanically
advance the counter digits. I soon gave up on reviving it.
I then installed a look-alike electronic LCD hour meter with an oil change reminder. This worked for about 8 years, but then I went to get the coach
from winter storage and it was dead. I assumed the internal battery that kept the memory alive had died. It had about 400hrs on it at that point. I
guess the designer of the unit assumed it was going on a machine that ran more often so there would be less load on the internal battery.
So the next meter I went back to the mechanical style. I think I got it from Newark.
The power to the hour meter comes from the main ignition power Pin 9 on the control board. It also powers the RUN light on the remote control board.
If the RUN light doesn't work either, check for a corroded connector in the remote control panel wire under the generator, its a common failure
point.
FYI, you can also use this same wire to send +12V back through a "Prime Switch" to operation the fuel pump to prime the pump and fill the carb before
you attempt to start the generator.
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
