Onan Gen Set

tim dawson

New member
Jan 24, 2000
778
0
0
Firstly, the two cannot be related. There is no common circuitry between the
engine controls and the AC generator side of the unit. The remote control
problem is most likely in one of two places: The white molex connector that
connects the genset control board to the harness, or due to a cracked solder
joint or bad connector on the board itself. I suggest that you separate the
connector, have a look, and then put it back together. The mere act of
replugging the connector may be enough to clear the problem, if it is the
connector.

As far as the A/C output problem, there are a couple of possibilities, although
some are remote. If you last shut the unit down while it was under load, it
may have caused the bridge rectifier in the generator to fail, and result in
not output. If you have some output, but not much current, I have seen the
circuit breaker on the top of the generator itself fail (I assume that you
checked to make sure that it was not tripped). You may also have lost the
residual magnetic field in the generator which allows it to self excite, but
this would be exceptionally rare unless the unit has been disassembled.

As far as checking the voltage on the unit, you need to open the box which
contains the breaker on the generator and connect your voltmeter there. This
will put you directly across the gerneator proper, and if you can see voltage,
then check back first through the breaker, then the plug and outlet in the
electrical cord bay, and lastly to the fuse panel. I am assuming correctly
that everything is OK when you plug the cable into shore power, right?

If the problem is the bridge rectifier, I think that these can still be had
from Onan, or there are some alternative parts that are available, although
they require a bit of alteration to the genset connector. The bridge is just
inside the dust covers on the generator housing, and is something that you
can change yourself even if you are only a bit mechanically inclined.

If I can be of any additional help, please contact me directly and I will
do what I can. I have pretty much rebuilt the controls on my 6K over the
years, and am quite familiar with the units.

- - Tim

> I tried to use my 6K Onan today and ran up against two problems. First, it
> won't start from the remote switch, but it does start at the set. It will
> shut off from the remote though and the engine runs well. Secondly, and the
> bigger problem, is that there is no power in the coach, or almost none. I
> couldn't even light a
> 60 watt bulb. At an outlet, I measure about 6 volts AC and about the same at
> the main breaker. Can the two be related? Where can I check voltage at the
> generator? Any ideas on how to trace out the problem? All help will be
> appreciated. Thanks
>
> Andy M PA
> 77 PB
>

- --
================================================================================
Tim Dawson (tadawson) Owner/Engineer
TPC Services Bellnet: (972)-221-7385
Lewisville, Texas 75067 FAXnet: (972)-221-0393
"The world is complex. Sendmail.cf reflects this...."
 
have you read these sections of my web page ??

Onan Runs But No AC (110)
Onan Bridge Rectifier Replacement
Water is the worst thing to apply to your Onan
Onan Control Board Operation
Onan Control Boarding Testing
GMC OEM Onan Control Board Total Repair & Restoration
Air Cleaner Problems
Washable/Hi Flow Air Filters are available from K&N Company
After-market Onan Starter bracket
Onan Battery Charger -upgrade
No Start From Remote
Onan Starter Information

gene

>I tried to use my 6K Onan today and ran up against two problems. First, it
>won't start from the remote switch, but it does start at the set. It will
>shut off from the remote though and the engine runs well. Secondly, and the
>bigger problem, is that there is no power in the coach, or almost none. I
>couldn't even light a
>60 watt bulb. At an outlet, I measure about 6 volts AC and about the same
at
>the main breaker. Can the two be related? Where can I check voltage at the
>generator? Any ideas on how to trace out the problem? All help will be
>appreciated. Thanks
>
>Andy M PA
>77 PB
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
>I tried to use my 6K Onan today and ran up against two problems. First, it
>won't start from the remote switch, but it does start at the set. It will
>shut off from the remote though and the engine runs well. Secondly, and the
>bigger problem, is that there is no power in the coach, or almost none. I
>couldn't even light a
>60 watt bulb. At an outlet, I measure about 6 volts AC and about the same at
>the main breaker. Can the two be related? Where can I check voltage at the
>generator? Any ideas on how to trace out the problem? All help will be
>appreciated. Thanks
>
>Andy M PA
>77 PB

You've already been advised about the obvious problems such as poor
connection at the connector from the inside switch to the control
board as well as corroded conections at the board. I have also
worked on someone's Onan that had a shorted wire coming from the
inside switch to the rear. We used an ohmmeter to test the
conductivity of the wires and found one was shorted somewhere to the
frame. We ran a new wire to bypass the shorted wire and the inside
starting problems were over.

For the 120 volt problem, check to see if there is power at the reset
button at the upper middle top of the Onan. You'll have to take off
the cover. This is a 120 v. reset. Check both sides of the breaker
to ground with the Onan running. If you have 120 volts then it isn't
the bridge rectifier. I have found on another GMC'er motor home that
his 120 volt connection on the two lines coming out the bottom left
of the Onan compartment were corroded where they connected to the two
wires that led into the body of the GMC and to the plug receptacle in
the outside cord compartment. We cut off the bad connector and hard
wired the wires together and it cured the problem.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
I had the same problem (not starting remotely) when I picked up my coach in
Forest City.
Seems there is a quick disconnect at the back of the Onan that corrodes.
Look there. I messed and messed with mine and couldn't get it to contact
until I figured out it was broken internally and one of the wires pulled out
of the plug right in my hand. Pretty common since it is right in the
elements where it's located.

Easiest to get to from under the coach. Just replace it with a weather proof
trailer hitch plug (4 conductor). They even make white screw-on, plastic
weatherproof removeable wire splices that would probably work well since the
only time you ever need to unplug this is to pull the genset. Sorry don't
know about the lack of voltage (regulator somewhere or speed dropped
maybe?). HTH

Nate '75GB (Feels kinda strange being off today... not complaining though!)
Omaha

 
get a solid state ign, module while you are there. Makes a big difference

gene

>Found out this morning that the bridge rectifier for my 6K Onan is still
>available from Onan for $17.15. Will pick one up tomorrow at the Cummins
>dealer.
>Andy M
>77 PB
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
# NTE5342 Bridge Rectifier would work just as well and would last forever.

From the FAQ:
http://www.web-access.net/~bmassey/gmc-faq.html
- -------------------------------------------
Is there a generic replacement for the onan bridge rectifier #305-0517 ?

Yes, call Mouser Electronics (800-346-6873)and ask for part # NTE5342. (or
583-MP354) (Mike Danford (judyd)
Digikey sells these bridges #MB2510WMS-ND FOR $8.84Can ($5.85US). This is
a Microsemi part. This bridge has wire leads not Stak-On terminals so it
should be easy to fit into a PC board. Digikey has a web page at
(surprise) http://www.digikey.com
- --------------------------------------------

My onan starts and runs fine, it does not generate any power.

Sounds like the Bridge Rectififer in the gen set is bad. These can go bad
if the gen set is shut down with a load on it. It has no effect on the
running of the gen set, it just won't generate 120 volts AC. New rectifier
is part # 707164 and cost more than $26.00 2 years ago (Cinnabar). The
above is from Wes Caughlan's (Cinnanbar) article on this subject in
Cinnabar's newsletter - #10 - December, 1996. Other
data is included in the article. (HR in Indy)

Here is what Onan said. There is a (phonetic spelling) Thyactor between the
engine and the generator. Sometimes when a unit has been worked on, this
device fails to respond. The cure was to jump F 1+ to F 2- and hit with 12V
for about three seconds. Then jump F 1- to F 2+ and hit again with12V for
about 3 seconds. It did the trick and it puts out better than ever. Hope
this helps. (Justin Hill)
- --------------------------------------------------

How do I change the Bridge Rectifier on my Onan?

The Onan typically fails while turning it off while the AC is running. A
voltage transit is generally the cause of failure due to the fact that the
OEM Bridge rectifiers are operating very
near to the Peak Inverse Voltage (PIV) rating of the OEM Bridge
rectifier. A simple solution is to replace the OEM BR with one of much
higher rating. However, I have not been able to find any aftermarket BR
w/the same pin-outs. A simple modification to the base (holding device) is
capable to accept the four wires as feed thru(directly attached to the
terminals of the BR). A 1/4" hole in the base for each wire is all that is
required. To remove the BR, side out the Onan as far as you can & remove
the BR mounting screw which is located aft of the Control Board on the rear
Generator Housing (1/4" screw head). Remove the plastic cover on the side
of the generator housing & the BR can be moved to where you can ID the
terminal from the side of the BR. Carefully...Carefully....Carefully
transfer the terminal ID to each wire (ie. + , - , AC , AC).
Transferring the proper ID is very important since the Onan will not
operate with crossed wires & the wires are very hard to trace for ID. Now
individually remove the wires from the base (relive tab on each wire
terminal from the front/BR engagement side & push terminals out the
rear). Now drill 1/4" holes for each wire. Slide the wires thru the
proper hold & attach/slide on the 4 wires to the BR. Slide the BR & wire
terminals back down thru the base to where the Original mounting screw will
secure the BR to it's original position on the housing. An after market BR
w/1,000 volt (PIV) rating is available from many Electronics stores at less
than $10. The PIV is greater than 3 times the OEM BR & should never fail
(well almost never). NTE # 5328 is the after
market BR that I use. (Duane Simmons)
- --------------------------------------------------

You might holler at Duane Simmons for one and more help.

hth
bdub

>Found out this morning that the bridge rectifier for my 6K Onan is still
>available from Onan for $17.15. Will pick one up tomorrow at the Cummins
>dealer.
>Andy M
>77 PB