Oil pressure switch

[john r. lebetski]

My logic says 80 range as if I remember from Dick Patterson's oil seminar the bypass valve is normally at 60 PSI. Otherwise with the 60 your gauge
would be mostly pegged at highway cruise.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[Ken B]

I would go with the 80. Here is my logic. On a cold engine the PSI will reach 60 and the oil pump bypass will kick in that means the the gauge will
read 3/4 scale. On a hot engine the pressure will read 40 PSI at a couple of thousand RPM cruising down the road or about 1/2 scale. At an idle the
PSI will drop to something 1/4 scale or better. Going to 60 will change those readings to even higher on the gauge.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[charles boyd]

Hi Ken.. I personally have had issues with engines with low oil pressure and I freak out if I see less than 1/2 . I currently have a OEM gauge and a
Bosch manual gauge. 35 on the manual gauge is one needle width past 1/2 on the OEM gauge and I love it.. cold it is 55 and 3/4. Hot ( towing in
hills 205* or so). It is 30 and 1/2 on OEM gauge.

> I would go with the 80. Here is my logic. On a cold engine the PSI will reach 60 and the oil pump bypass will kick in that means the the gauge
> will read 3/4 scale. On a hot engine the pressure will read 40 PSI at a couple of thousand RPM cruising down the road or about 1/2 scale. At an
> idle the PSI will drop to something 1/4 scale or better. Going to 60 will change those readings to even higher on the gauge.

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

 

[Jim Hupy]

Gages used in automotive applications are wildly inaccurate. They err on
the high side for the most part. They are all pretty much based on amperage
flow through a coil wrapped around a moving magnetic armature. The higher
the current flow, the further the armature moves and the higher the needle
registers. Sending units are a variable resistor. Usually 0 ohms to 80 or
90 ohms. As the resistor varies, so does the current flow. That flow goes
through the gage, and moves the needle. Simple, cheap, and accurate enough
for most uses.
My personal opinion on gages is that your eyes should be on them as
little time as possible. Same goes for navigation devices. You should be
looking down the road, not worrying about what the gages are saying.
That is why the indicator or warning type of instruments make sense.
They flash a warning or an audible alarm when something's so far out of
range that action is required. Digipanel is one type.
Some coach owners use both types. Spend your money the way you see fit.

Jim Hupy ( extra gages include vacuum, tachometer, transmission pan
temperature, and final drive lube temperature. )
Salem, Or.

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 7:03 AM Charles Boyd
wrote:

> Hi Ken.. I personally have had issues with engines with low oil pressure
> and I freak out if I see less than 1/2 . I currently have a OEM gauge and a
> Bosch manual gauge. 35 on the manual gauge is one needle width past 1/2
> on the OEM gauge and I love it.. cold it is 55 and 3/4. Hot ( towing in
> hills 205* or so). It is 30 and 1/2 on OEM gauge.
>
>
>
>

> > I would go with the 80. Here is my logic. On a cold engine the PSI
> will reach 60 and the oil pump bypass will kick in that means the the gauge
> > will read 3/4 scale. On a hot engine the pressure will read 40 PSI at a
> couple of thousand RPM cruising down the road or about 1/2 scale. At an
> > idle the PSI will drop to something 1/4 scale or better. Going to 60
> will change those readings to even higher on the gauge.
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Matt Colie]

Eric,

Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum.....

As far as which is the better sender(switch) for the lube oil pressure, a very good start is to always start with the coach description. But this
unnecessary if you put in a sigfile. To do this, go to and scroll down. When there, put in a real name (because we
like to know who we talked to), a short about the coach (there were about 13,000 built over six build years) and many were fitout by other
manufactures so there are some serious changes. That is also why it is good to include major mods in that. Then, a geographic reference is also good
because the half that get this as email don't see your header that says Itasca, IL.

This all matters a lot because this is a community of helping and supportive people that most likely cannot imagine. The community is capable of
supplying information and assistance that cannot be bought, but first you have to be a part of the community. If you own a coach with a TZE VIN, then
that is you invitation. The only other community that I know of that is this supportive is that of the watermen that are my world. For that reason,
I like to welcome owners when they arrive here much as any new owner or vessel is welcomed there. So,

May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.

Welcome Eric

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[mike]

> I have to install a new oil pressure switch, and looking at the parts cross reference, there are 2 psi switches. Not sure which one I need. 60 psi
> or 80 psi. I have a 76 birchaven 23'.
> Thanks
> Eric

Parts book shows part #6462137. It is an 80# one and should still be available as it was used on late 84-96 Corvettes.
--
Mike K.
'75 PB
Southeast Michigan

 

[emerystora]

Here are some:

Engine, Oil, Pressure Switch, Sender
Wells PS-136
NAPA (60 lb) OP6637 ***
Standard (80 lb) PS-157
GM Delco (New #) 15591103
NAPA (80 lb) OP6636

Use the 80 pound ones.

Emery Stora

>

>> I have to install a new oil pressure switch, and looking at the parts cross reference, there are 2 psi switches. Not sure which one I need. 60 psi
>> or 80 psi. I have a 76 birchaven 23'.
>> Thanks
>> Eric
>
> Parts book shows part #6462137. It is an 80# one and should still be available as it was used on late 84-96 Corvettes.
> --
> Mike K.
> '75 PB
> Southeast Michigan
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[jim kanomata1]

What I do is to keep track of where the gage reads for driving speed and at
idle at same engine temp. If it starts going lower, then oe need to keep
eye on it and see.
More critical on a new engine.

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 11:08 AM Emery Stora via Gmclist <

> Here are some:
>
> Engine, Oil, Pressure Switch, Sender
> Wells PS-136
> NAPA (60 lb) OP6637 ***
> Standard (80 lb) PS-157
> GM Delco (New #) 15591103
> NAPA (80 lb) OP6636
>
> Use the 80 pound ones.
>
> Emery Stora
>

> >

> >> I have to install a new oil pressure switch, and looking at the parts
> cross reference, there are 2 psi switches. Not sure which one I need. 60 psi
> >> or 80 psi. I have a 76 birchaven 23'.
> >> Thanks
> >> Eric
> >
> > Parts book shows part #6462137. It is an 80# one and should still be
> available as it was used on late 84-96 Corvettes.
> > --
> > Mike K.
> > '75 PB
> > Southeast Michigan
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[LarryW]

Well, the OEM dash oil pressure gauge gives you a reading that is kinda relative to something with little or no reference. High and Low don't mean
anything unless you know what high and low mean, and what the relative position of the needle to high and low are in PSI. IMO, they are the next thing
to idiot gauges. If you are really interested in what the oil pressure in your engine is, what I would do is go out and get a mechanical Stewart
Warner oil pressure gauge. Easy to install and accurate. Hang it in a gauge bracket below the dash. Now you have real points of reference to make
judgments on what is happening in your engine. Personally...(and opinions will vary on this) I like to see 45lbs at a hot rev, and more than 20lbs at
a hot idle. Currently am running 45 hot rev and 35 hot idle. I personally adjust the oil I use to achieve this, so I am now using Mobile One, 0w40.
The "0" gives me immediate flow I need at winter Wisconsin start-up temperatures and the 40 weight for the .0015 clearances at rods and mains when the
engine is hot. With the "0", cold start at 20* morning temps, I will see oil PSI's come up immediately to 50 psi and approaching 60 PSI at an in
gear RPM of 1500-2000. As the engine comes up to temp, pressure drops to 45psi at road speed or 2500rpm. I have hooked up both OEM dash gauge and a SW
on the same port and the OEM just does not follow the same as the SW so while it us useful telling you that there is oil pressure, IMO that's about
all it is good for.

Just my relatively informed, off the cuff, back yard mechanic, gut level, eyeball it up and guestimate, opinion....that's all... :roll:
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[johnny]

The OEM senders die due to vibration - and the current ones from China fail faster than the OEM. A Car Guys bud showed me the cure
in his Corvette which has the same problem. Outboard the sender somewhere close and solid, and clamp it down. Then run a piece of flexible tubing
with fittings to it. He used the body edge on the '[vette, I'd probably locate it on the radiator frame.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

 

[Matt Colie]

> Thanks everyone for responding, and giving explanations on why to use the different parts. Got the part at napa. They seem to be the best for
> getting parts local. I'll have plenty more questions as I rebuild my coach.

Eric,

Helping other owners is most of why we are here. We all know that the coach is more than just a big toy because it connects you
to this community. If you get advice here, take it to the bank. At 14 seasons and 70+K miles, I am not nearly one of the more experienced that write
here. We really do want you to be able to enjoy the coach and what it can do for you.

Speaking of the Community...
Mark your calendar right now for October 4~10. That is the GMCMI Fall Convention. It will be in Mansfield OH. For you, that is about 350 miles and
about 8 road hours. When you get there, you will among a couple hundred brand new old friends. You will have access to more information than you can
absorb. (A friend was at his first and described it as trying to take a drink of water from a fire hose. Younger days, we would have run that, but
now we would break it up by finding a friendly ONP spot.

Whatever, do your best to get there. In the mean time, look up the local chapters, I think you have 3 to chose from, GMC Eastern States, The Six
Wheels (out of the Chicago area), and Great Lakers. They are all something that you should know about.

If you have questions and you don't ask us, then we may be offended.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit