No Hot Start

gary miller

New member
Aug 18, 1998
452
0
0
Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???

I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
make where that I cooled down a long time.

Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.

Gary
'77 Kingsley
North Bend, Oregon Coast
70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
 
This is what GM refers to as "hot soak" and is not unusual under the
circumstances you described. The solenoid gets extremely hot...it is very
near the exhaust manifold on one side and the engine on the other (talk
about a rock and a hard place!) and the resistance of the wire goes way up.
It doesn't generate enough magnetic force to pull the plunger in and start
the engine. As soon as it cools off a bit, it works normally.

This doesn't indicate that the engine is overheating in the usual sense,
just that the starter solenoid got hot. In the situation you describe, it is
quite understandable, pulling a long hill your manifolds were probably
glowing!

There was a campaign at one time on some of the Chevrolets, mostly big
blocks as I recall, to install a relay near the starter. It was wired such
that the normal start circuit only had to pull in the relay, then the
contacts on the relay supplied battery voltage to the solenoid. This way the
circuit path to the solenoid could be very short. In the standard
configuration, the 12 volts takes a very long path up to the instrument
panel, through the start switch, then through the neutral safety switch and
back down through connectors to the solenoid. As far as I know this fixes
the problem. But I think also that the more recently manufactured GM
solenoids were constructed with more margin so that this is not the problem
that it was in the 70's. If it is a regular occurrence, you may want to put
a newer solenoid on, not because yours is defective per se, but because the
newer ones are not as prone to this...I think.

On the other hand, if it isn't happening often, I'd just ignore it. It
doesn't indicate anything defective, and is only annoying. You need to slow
down and drink a coke now and then any way.

BTW, a method I've used over the years that you may find useful for
diagnosing a "no start" problem is to turn on the dome lamp, courtesy lamp,
or head lamps...any lamp that you can see from the driver's seat that runs
off of the engine start battery...and watch it when you hit the starter
switch. If it dims when you hit the switch, you don't have a problem with
the switch, the neutral safety switch, or the wiring to the starter. One of
the few things you can diagnose withour leaving the seat!

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary Miller
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 9:48 PM
Subject: GMC: No Hot Start

>Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
>
>I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
>SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
>was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
>down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
>switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
>the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
>switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
>whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
>trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
>chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
>No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
>make where that I cooled down a long time.
>
>Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
>solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
>on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
>syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
>also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.
>
>Gary
>'77 Kingsley
>North Bend, Oregon Coast
>70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
>
 
Travis,
Many thanks for your very reasonable analysis of my problem and I particularly
like your suggested solution.
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast

> This is what GM refers to as "hot soak" and is not unusual under the
> circumstances you described. The solenoid gets extremely hot...it is very
> near the exhaust manifold on one side and the engine on the other (talk
> about a rock and a hard place!) and the resistance of the wire goes way up.
> It doesn't generate enough magnetic force to pull the plunger in and start
> the engine. As soon as it cools off a bit, it works normally.
>
> This doesn't indicate that the engine is overheating in the usual sense,
> just that the starter solenoid got hot. In the situation you describe, it is
> quite understandable, pulling a long hill your manifolds were probably
> glowing!
>
> There was a campaign at one time on some of the Chevrolets, mostly big
> blocks as I recall, to install a relay near the starter. It was wired such
> that the normal start circuit only had to pull in the relay, then the
> contacts on the relay supplied battery voltage to the solenoid. This way the
> circuit path to the solenoid could be very short. In the standard
> configuration, the 12 volts takes a very long path up to the instrument
> panel, through the start switch, then through the neutral safety switch and
> back down through connectors to the solenoid. As far as I know this fixes
> the problem. But I think also that the more recently manufactured GM
> solenoids were constructed with more margin so that this is not the problem
> that it was in the 70's. If it is a regular occurrence, you may want to put
> a newer solenoid on, not because yours is defective per se, but because the
> newer ones are not as prone to this...I think.
>
> On the other hand, if it isn't happening often, I'd just ignore it. It
> doesn't indicate anything defective, and is only annoying. You need to slow
> down and drink a coke now and then any way.
>
> BTW, a method I've used over the years that you may find useful for
> diagnosing a "no start" problem is to turn on the dome lamp, courtesy lamp,
> or head lamps...any lamp that you can see from the driver's seat that runs
> off of the engine start battery...and watch it when you hit the starter
> switch. If it dims when you hit the switch, you don't have a problem with
> the switch, the neutral safety switch, or the wiring to the starter. One of
> the few things you can diagnose withour leaving the seat!
>
> Travis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Miller
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 9:48 PM
> Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
>
> >Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
> >
> >I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
> >SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
> >was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
> >down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
> >switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
> >the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
> >switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
> >whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
> >trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
> >chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
> >No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
> >make where that I cooled down a long time.
> >
> >Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
> >solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
> >on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
> >syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
> >also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.
> >
> >Gary
> >'77 Kingsley
> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
> >70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
> >
 
not many options on this problem - if there is no click either

starter switch is intermittent

wiring is intermittent

solenoid is intermittent

battery connection is intermittent

problem is intermittents can be a bear to find - I would just go out and
start it at random times to see if it is a recurring problem until my
confidence was built back up - otherwise if can be an expensive trial
and error replacement process and you may still get stranded on the road
using either technique

- --

ron keener near Austin, Texas http://MidAmericaBreedingTech.com
**************************************************************
 
Which suggestion did you like, Gary...the relay or the coke?

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary Miller
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start

>Travis,
>Many thanks for your very reasonable analysis of my problem and I
particularly
>like your suggested solution.
>Gary
>North Bend, Oregon Coast
>
>

>
>> This is what GM refers to as "hot soak" and is not unusual under the
>> circumstances you described. The solenoid gets extremely hot...it is very
>> near the exhaust manifold on one side and the engine on the other (talk
>> about a rock and a hard place!) and the resistance of the wire goes way
up.
>> It doesn't generate enough magnetic force to pull the plunger in and
start
>> the engine. As soon as it cools off a bit, it works normally.
>>
>> This doesn't indicate that the engine is overheating in the usual sense,
>> just that the starter solenoid got hot. In the situation you describe, it
is
>> quite understandable, pulling a long hill your manifolds were probably
>> glowing!
>>
>> There was a campaign at one time on some of the Chevrolets, mostly big
>> blocks as I recall, to install a relay near the starter. It was wired
such
>> that the normal start circuit only had to pull in the relay, then the
>> contacts on the relay supplied battery voltage to the solenoid. This way
the
>> circuit path to the solenoid could be very short. In the standard
>> configuration, the 12 volts takes a very long path up to the instrument
>> panel, through the start switch, then through the neutral safety switch
and
>> back down through connectors to the solenoid. As far as I know this fixes
>> the problem. But I think also that the more recently manufactured GM
>> solenoids were constructed with more margin so that this is not the
problem
>> that it was in the 70's. If it is a regular occurrence, you may want to
put
>> a newer solenoid on, not because yours is defective per se, but because
the
>> newer ones are not as prone to this...I think.
>>
>> On the other hand, if it isn't happening often, I'd just ignore it. It
>> doesn't indicate anything defective, and is only annoying. You need to
slow
>> down and drink a coke now and then any way.
>>
>> BTW, a method I've used over the years that you may find useful for
>> diagnosing a "no start" problem is to turn on the dome lamp, courtesy
lamp,
>> or head lamps...any lamp that you can see from the driver's seat that
runs
>> off of the engine start battery...and watch it when you hit the starter
>> switch. If it dims when you hit the switch, you don't have a problem with
>> the switch, the neutral safety switch, or the wiring to the starter. One
of
>> the few things you can diagnose withour leaving the seat!
>>
>> Travis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gary Miller
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 9:48 PM
>> Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
>>
>> >Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
>> >
>> >I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
>> >SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
>> >was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
>> >down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
>> >switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
>> >the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
>> >switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
>> >whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
>> >trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
>> >chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
>> >No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
>> >make where that I cooled down a long time.
>> >
>> >Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
>> >solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
>> >on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
>> >syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
>> >also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.
>> >
>> >Gary
>> >'77 Kingsley
>> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
>> >70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
>> >
>
>
>
 
I'd suggest the coke route :-) (the liquid kind of course)
The other alternative is to put a heatshield around the starter. That's what
I did some time back. I think I got it from GM.

Heinz

> Which suggestion did you like, Gary...the relay or the coke?
>
> Travis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Miller
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 10:39 PM
> Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start
>
>
> >Travis,
> >Many thanks for your very reasonable analysis of my problem and I
> particularly
> >like your suggested solution.
> >Gary
> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
> >
> >

> >
> >> This is what GM refers to as "hot soak" and is not unusual under the
> >> circumstances you described. The solenoid gets extremely hot...it is
very
> >> near the exhaust manifold on one side and the engine on the other (talk
> >> about a rock and a hard place!) and the resistance of the wire goes way
> up.
> >> It doesn't generate enough magnetic force to pull the plunger in and
> start
> >> the engine. As soon as it cools off a bit, it works normally.
> >>
> >> This doesn't indicate that the engine is overheating in the usual
sense,
> >> just that the starter solenoid got hot. In the situation you describe,
it
> is
> >> quite understandable, pulling a long hill your manifolds were probably
> >> glowing!
> >>
> >> There was a campaign at one time on some of the Chevrolets, mostly big
> >> blocks as I recall, to install a relay near the starter. It was wired
> such
> >> that the normal start circuit only had to pull in the relay, then the
> >> contacts on the relay supplied battery voltage to the solenoid. This
way
> the
> >> circuit path to the solenoid could be very short. In the standard
> >> configuration, the 12 volts takes a very long path up to the instrument
> >> panel, through the start switch, then through the neutral safety switch
> and
> >> back down through connectors to the solenoid. As far as I know this
fixes
> >> the problem. But I think also that the more recently manufactured GM
> >> solenoids were constructed with more margin so that this is not the
> problem
> >> that it was in the 70's. If it is a regular occurrence, you may want to
> put
> >> a newer solenoid on, not because yours is defective per se, but because
> the
> >> newer ones are not as prone to this...I think.
> >>
> >> On the other hand, if it isn't happening often, I'd just ignore it. It
> >> doesn't indicate anything defective, and is only annoying. You need to
> slow
> >> down and drink a coke now and then any way.
> >>
> >> BTW, a method I've used over the years that you may find useful for
> >> diagnosing a "no start" problem is to turn on the dome lamp, courtesy
> lamp,
> >> or head lamps...any lamp that you can see from the driver's seat that
> runs
> >> off of the engine start battery...and watch it when you hit the starter
> >> switch. If it dims when you hit the switch, you don't have a problem
with
> >> the switch, the neutral safety switch, or the wiring to the starter.
One
> of
> >> the few things you can diagnose withour leaving the seat!
> >>
> >> Travis
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Gary Miller
> >> To: gmcmotorhome
> >> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 9:48 PM
> >> Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
> >>
> >> >Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
> >> >
> >> >I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
> >> >SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
> >> >was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
> >> >down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
> >> >switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
> >> >the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
> >> >switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
> >> >whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
> >> >trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
> >> >chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
> >> >No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
> >> >make where that I cooled down a long time.
> >> >
> >> >Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
> >> >solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
> >> >on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
> >> >syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
> >> >also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.
> >> >
> >> >Gary
> >> >'77 Kingsley
> >> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
> >> >70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
 
Not a bad idea... the heat shield that is. Most of my experience is with
Chevrolets, Corvettes mostly, but the same starter solenoid on the GMC.
Later model Chevs had a shield around the starter and solenoid, but I doubt
it would have prevented the problem as he described it...the shield will
delay the heat transfer, but with a sustained high load pulling a motor home
up a long grade, I suspect heat soak is inevitable. Had he continued driving
for a few miles on the level, chances are the air flow over the solenoid
would have cooled it down pretty rapidly to a level that would have
permitted a quick restart. That's why I don't see it as a particularly bad
problem, just an occasional annoyance. A real pain in the drain if you're
wanting to get back on the road though. My current daily driver is a
Chevrolet 454SS pickup; it does this once in a while on a very hot day if
I've been in slow traffic with the air on or idling with the air on for a
good while. What th heck, I need a coke break (diet in my case) too.

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Heinz Wittenbecher
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start

>I'd suggest the coke route :-) (the liquid kind of course)
>The other alternative is to put a heatshield around the starter. That's
what
>I did some time back. I think I got it from GM.
>
>Heinz
>
>
>> Which suggestion did you like, Gary...the relay or the coke?
>>
>> Travis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gary Miller
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 10:39 PM
>> Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start
>>
>>
>> >Travis,
>> >Many thanks for your very reasonable analysis of my problem and I
>> particularly
>> >like your suggested solution.
>> >Gary
>> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
>> >
>> >

>> >
>> >> This is what GM refers to as "hot soak" and is not unusual under the
>> >> circumstances you described. The solenoid gets extremely hot...it is
>very
>> >> near the exhaust manifold on one side and the engine on the other
(talk
>> >> about a rock and a hard place!) and the resistance of the wire goes
way
>> up.
>> >> It doesn't generate enough magnetic force to pull the plunger in and
>> start
>> >> the engine. As soon as it cools off a bit, it works normally.
>> >>
>> >> This doesn't indicate that the engine is overheating in the usual
>sense,
>> >> just that the starter solenoid got hot. In the situation you describe,
>it
>> is
>> >> quite understandable, pulling a long hill your manifolds were probably
>> >> glowing!
>> >>
>> >> There was a campaign at one time on some of the Chevrolets, mostly big
>> >> blocks as I recall, to install a relay near the starter. It was wired
>> such
>> >> that the normal start circuit only had to pull in the relay, then the
>> >> contacts on the relay supplied battery voltage to the solenoid. This
>way
>> the
>> >> circuit path to the solenoid could be very short. In the standard
>> >> configuration, the 12 volts takes a very long path up to the
instrument
>> >> panel, through the start switch, then through the neutral safety
switch
>> and
>> >> back down through connectors to the solenoid. As far as I know this
>fixes
>> >> the problem. But I think also that the more recently manufactured GM
>> >> solenoids were constructed with more margin so that this is not the
>> problem
>> >> that it was in the 70's. If it is a regular occurrence, you may want
to
>> put
>> >> a newer solenoid on, not because yours is defective per se, but
because
>> the
>> >> newer ones are not as prone to this...I think.
>> >>
>> >> On the other hand, if it isn't happening often, I'd just ignore it. It
>> >> doesn't indicate anything defective, and is only annoying. You need to
>> slow
>> >> down and drink a coke now and then any way.
>> >>
>> >> BTW, a method I've used over the years that you may find useful for
>> >> diagnosing a "no start" problem is to turn on the dome lamp, courtesy
>> lamp,
>> >> or head lamps...any lamp that you can see from the driver's seat that
>> runs
>> >> off of the engine start battery...and watch it when you hit the
starter
>> >> switch. If it dims when you hit the switch, you don't have a problem
>with
>> >> the switch, the neutral safety switch, or the wiring to the starter.
>One
>> of
>> >> the few things you can diagnose withour leaving the seat!
>> >>
>> >> Travis
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: Gary Miller
>> >> To: gmcmotorhome
>> >> Date: Saturday, July 10, 1999 9:48 PM
>> >> Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
>> >>
>> >> >Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
>> >> >
>> >> >I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
>> >> >SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
>> >> >was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
>> >> >down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
>> >> >switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
>> >> >the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
>> >> >switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
>> >> >whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
>> >> >trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
>> >> >chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
>> >> >No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
>> >> >make where that I cooled down a long time.
>> >> >
>> >> >Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
>> >> >solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
>> >> >on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
>> >> >syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
>> >> >also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K.
>> >> >
>> >> >Gary
>> >> >'77 Kingsley
>> >> >North Bend, Oregon Coast
>> >> >70 degrees, clear skies, gentle breeze.
>> >> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
 
>
> "Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
>
> I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
> SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
> was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
> down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
> switch the starter solenoid did not even click.

Gary,

You have gathered a number of items to check and I would like to add one
more. I had a similar problem with a Cadillac. The previous owner changed
the battery, solenoid, and starter at least twice each and could never cure
the problem. It turned out to be the positive battery cable. It looked good,
was clean on both ends, and the end connectors were good. When I replaced the
positive cable, the problem disappeared. Wanting to know why, I sliced open
the insulation from end to end and that's when I found the cause. Almost
every copper strand was boken where the cable was routed near the exhaust
manifold. No signs of heat damage on the outside of the cable but the inside
had failed due to the heat.

Good luck with the search.

Lorry
 
"Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???

I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
make where that I cooled down a long time.

Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K."

I'm cetainly no wizard, but can report an identical experience and how it
was corrected. We actually travelled from CA to MA and back between
occurrences. I didn't have the smarts to test it by turning on the dome
light like Travis wisely suggested, nor have I checked for voltage levels
as Arch suggested, but we eventually determined that current was not
reaching the solenoid when twisting the switch. You certainly may have
experienced "heat soak", but if you let it idle for 5 minutes, maybe not.

In my case, it turned out to be poor contacts in the ignition switch. If
you held your mouth just right and turned the key real hard, it would
start. The switch was replaced (using the same tumblers so as not to need
separate keys for door/ignition) and now fires every time.

HTH

Oh yea, 76 with slight breaze in Santa Barbara. How's the weather gonna be
on the OR coast around 9/10 and is Bastendorf an OK campground?

___________
Dave (& Dege), '76 Royale /_][__] [_] | "SR JAMES"
Santa Barbara, CA *0-------OO--* (our hobby)
 
I used to have a pontiac that wouldnt start
after it got hot. The cure was to place a
metal shim between the starter/engine block.
The starter would get hot and swell making
the teeth too tight to the flywheel I think.
Thats what I think,
Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Dave Lowry
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 1999 6:20 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
>
>

>
> "Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
>
> I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
> SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
> was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
> down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
> switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
> the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
> switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
> whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
> trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
> chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
> No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
> make where that I cooled down a long time.
>
> Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
> solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
> on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
> syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
> also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K."
>
> I'm cetainly no wizard, but can report an identical experience and how it
> was corrected. We actually travelled from CA to MA and back between
> occurrences. I didn't have the smarts to test it by turning on the dome
> light like Travis wisely suggested, nor have I checked for voltage levels
> as Arch suggested, but we eventually determined that current was not
> reaching the solenoid when twisting the switch. You certainly may have
> experienced "heat soak", but if you let it idle for 5 minutes, maybe not.
>
> In my case, it turned out to be poor contacts in the ignition switch. If
> you held your mouth just right and turned the key real hard, it would
> start. The switch was replaced (using the same tumblers so as not to need
> separate keys for door/ignition) and now fires every time.
>
> HTH
>
> Oh yea, 76 with slight breaze in Santa Barbara. How's the weather gonna be
> on the OR coast around 9/10 and is Bastendorf an OK campground?
>
> ___________
> Dave (& Dege), '76 Royale /_][__] [_] | "SR JAMES"
> Santa Barbara, CA *0-------OO--* (our hobby)
>
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
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Thanks to all you Wizards. That's what so great about this Net -- when there
is a problem there is always someone out there with an answer. Regarding the
"No Hot Start", I'm going with the consensus, Heat Soak. A longer cool down
time following a hot run will be SOP but just in case I'll keep cold Cokes in
the refer.
Gary
North Bend, Oregon Coast
75 degrees, clear sky, ocean breeze, otherwise perfect day
 
I used to have a 1971 Chevy Chevelle (had a V-8 with
an automatic transmission) that would never crank after
running for a while. It was so bad, that I had to keep
the engine running when I got gas. I had it to the dealer,
various repair facilities and no one ever could figure out
what how to fix it. Since it was a company car I was able
to take it to various repair facilities and I didn't have to pay
the bills. For close to two years I had the problem until
the car's mileage allowed me to get a new car.

Ricard Waters
'76 PB (which seems to crank without difficulty), Troy, MI

> I used to have a pontiac that wouldnt start
> after it got hot. The cure was to place a
> metal shim between the starter/engine block.
> The starter would get hot and swell making
> the teeth too tight to the flywheel I think.
> Thats what I think,
> Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> > [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Dave Lowry
> > Sent: Sunday, July 11, 1999 6:20 PM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: GMC: No Hot Start
> >
> >

> >
> > "Tell me, Oh Wizards of GMC Lore, what is going on???
> >
> > I'd been running all day and just finished a climb from
> > SL to 5000' in 20 miles. Engine did not overheat but
> > was plenty warm. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it
> > down. When I came back in about 10 minutes and hit the
> > switch the starter solenoid did not even click. Hit
> > the boost -- same thing. Fiddled with the ignition
> > switch, still dead. Growled at the dog and blamed the
> > whole thing on my wife, sat down and had a Coke while
> > trying to decide what to do. Just on the outside
> > chance I hit the switch again and she fired right up.
> > No more problems for the rest of the trip but I did
> > make where that I cooled down a long time.
> >
> > Now the question for you Wizards ---- Is the starter
> > solenoid giving me notice that it is intending to move
> > on or is this just a normal "hot engine compartment"
> > syndrome? If the solnoid should be replaced should I
> > also replace the starter just to be safe? 120,000K."
> >
> > I'm cetainly no wizard, but can report an identical experience and how it
> > was corrected. We actually travelled from CA to MA and back between
> > occurrences. I didn't have the smarts to test it by turning on the dome
> > light like Travis wisely suggested, nor have I checked for voltage levels
> > as Arch suggested, but we eventually determined that current was not
> > reaching the solenoid when twisting the switch. You certainly may have
> > experienced "heat soak", but if you let it idle for 5 minutes, maybe not.
> >
> > In my case, it turned out to be poor contacts in the ignition switch. If
> > you held your mouth just right and turned the key real hard, it would
> > start. The switch was replaced (using the same tumblers so as not to need
> > separate keys for door/ignition) and now fires every time.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Oh yea, 76 with slight breaze in Santa Barbara. How's the weather gonna be
> > on the OR coast around 9/10 and is Bastendorf an OK campground?
> >
> > ___________
> > Dave (& Dege), '76 Royale /_][__] [_] | "SR JAMES"
> > Santa Barbara, CA *0-------OO--* (our hobby)
> >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________
> NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?
> Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
> http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
 
Hey, Rick,

Most likely if instead of draping wet rags over the starter you'd jumped
directly from the hot to the solenoid coil at the solenoid, it would've
started right then. Back in the 70's GM had a campaign putting relays down
there to do just that to "solve" this problem. I'm pretty sure they
redesigned the solenoids later on though; this is not the common problem
that it was then.

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: RickStapls
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Monday, July 12, 1999 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start

>
>> A longer cool down
>> time following a hot run will be SOP but just in case I'll keep cold
Cokes
>> in
>> the refer.
>
>Gary,
> I don't know, it would be awkward pouring those cokes on the starter,
not
>to mention messy. When my starter did the heat-soak thing on a hot
summer's
>day on Massachusetts' Rte 2, (climbing to the Berkshire summit, we stopped
>briefly for sandwiches...error), I soaked a couple of shop rags in the
sink,
>crawled under and draped them over the starter and solenoid. Started in
>about 5 - 10 minutes.
> (It's just a thing with me: when I want to go now, I want to go NOW.
And
>no silly heat wave, hurricane, blizzard, gas crisis, or martial law hogwash
>is gonna stop me. We all have our quirks.)
>
>Rick Staples
>'75 Eleganza
>Louisville, CO
>
>
 
Gotta disagree with you this time, Arch (and we were on a roll!)

While the ground problem Rick described is unquestionably true on the
aluminum blocked toyota he was working on, I've never seen it happen on a GM
product with a cast iron block and cast iron starter nose. Lot's of GM's
have aluminum starter noses; I"ve still never seen it. Not saying it
couldn't happen.

But the "heat soak" problem as I described it...high resistance in the
solenoid coil due to excessive heat, reducing the coil current to a level
too low to physically pull in the plunger against the spring...is a well
documented, relatively common problem on GM products from the 70's. Big
block Chevrolets were notorious for it, but they all use essentially the
same starter other than the nose casting. It really isn't a defect, per se,
since it only occurs when the solenoid is much hotter than it was designed
to operate. But I'm pretty sure that GM modified the design on later
solenoids to give more margin and pretty much eliminated it on later stuff.
This one isn't myth, it's the real thing.

The method I described earlier...watching the dome lamp while trying the
starter...will spot this problem while you wait.

There are, of course, other things that will keep the starter from working.
Someone described an ignition switch going bad, for example, and I've seen a
bunch of neutral safety switches go bad. And there are lots of places where
a connector can fail, much like on your SOB. But the dome light trick will
spot these right away. Won't tell you where the bad connection is, but will
tell you that that's what your problem is.

Best regards,

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gcbr
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Monday, July 12, 1999 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: No Hot Start

>In a message dated 7/11/99 11:25:51 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
>> Thanks to all you Wizards. That's what so great about this Net -- when
>> there
>> is a problem there is always someone out there with an answer.
Regarding
>> the
>> "No Hot Start", I'm going with the consensus, Heat Soak. A longer cool
>down
>> time following a hot run will be SOP but just in case I'll keep cold
Cokes
>> in
>>
>Gary and Richard Waters
>
>Here i go again. I think heat soak is just a phrase to cover up for
>a problem you cant find. Rick told the story of the starter that was
>not grounded even though bolted to the engine. I have had that happen
>on my Le Sharo. I have fought "heat soak" on this beast for 3 years.
>You have to fight it where and when it happens. The way I found it
>this time was I had wired wires to numerous points on the engine,
> starter, solenoid and fuse block. Then brought them out through the
>ash tray. They were all labeled. When the LeSharo went down this time
>I could sit in the drivers seat and check voltages wherever I wanted to.
>It was then and only then that I could see the voltage drop. Believe
>me I had checked them many times and had never seen this kind
>of voltage problems. If you were getting a slight glow from the alternator
>light before of after you may well have the same problem. Once I found
>the connector that was bad and repaired it I ran the rest of the trip (for
>the first time in 3 years) with no problems. The connector would have
>never crossed my mind. It supplies power to the dash-----its not
>something in the starting circuit. I seriously doubt if any body could
>have found this problem by taking to someone to fix it. The problem
>would not be there once the connector cooled down. BTDT came in on
>the hook the last 3 times out. Thats why I decided to get crazy and
>run the wires. Dash looked like one of Henry's creations :>) But it
>worked.
>
>Getting off the soap box.
>
>Take Care
>Arch 76 GB IL
 
Gee it only took me 28 years to find out what was
wrong with my old Chevelle. Mine must have been
one of the first to exhibit the "no cranking when hot"
symptom.

It sure seemed strange to me at the time, but then I was just
a pharmaceutical salesman (detail man in the trade) and
what did I know about cars.

I would have never imagined that almost 30 years later
I would buy an antique motorhome and as a result find
out what caused that problem.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

- -------------

> I used to have a 1971 Chevy Chevelle (had a V-8 with
> an automatic transmission) that would never crank after
> running for a while. It was so bad, that I had to keep
> the engine running when I got gas. I had it to the dealer,
> various repair facilities and no one ever could figure out
> what how to fix it. Since it was a company car I was able
> to take it to various repair facilities and I didn't have to pay
> the bills. For close to two years I had the problem until
> the car's mileage allowed me to get a new car.
>
> R