No crank

Tom,

I think you're going to find one of the battery cable terminals just about
to come off. The heat from a surge of starting current can temporarily
melt enough of the solder in the joint to briefly conduct a little current,
which then re-melts the tenuous connection. I've seen it happen too many
times! Have someone watch each of the battery terminals while you activate
the starter. There was a little smoke from the last such bad connection I
had.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 11:41 AM tom geiger via Gmclist <

> Well, the weird thing was on that solenoid jump I did is that it briefly
> activated the starter but then subsequent attempts to jump the started
> resulted in no spark or current, completely dead. But it seemed to come
> back after a minute or so. It seemed like a heavy load happened which
> initiated some kind of surge protector to shut down all power. Same
> happened when I heard the defrost blower fan going when I would turn the
> ignition
> key to run position, but as soon as I turned it to the start position
> everything would shut down.
>
> TG
> 76 Eleganza 2
> Kansas City, Mo
>
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Tom
You don’t have a surge protector. High resistance at a connector will cayse that.
Why don’t you try some of the suggestions give you and quit trying to guess.

Emery Stora

>
> Tom,
>
> I think you're going to find one of the battery cable terminals just about
> to come off. The heat from a surge of starting current can temporarily
> melt enough of the solder in the joint to briefly conduct a little current,
> which then re-melts the tenuous connection. I've seen it happen too many
> times! Have someone watch each of the battery terminals while you activate
> the starter. There was a little smoke from the last such bad connection I
> had.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>> On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 11:41 AM tom geiger via Gmclist <

>>
>> Well, the weird thing was on that solenoid jump I did is that it briefly
>> activated the starter but then subsequent attempts to jump the started
>> resulted in no spark or current, completely dead. But it seemed to come
>> back after a minute or so. It seemed like a heavy load happened which
>> initiated some kind of surge protector to shut down all power. Same
>> happened when I heard the defrost blower fan going when I would turn the
>> ignition
>> key to run position, but as soon as I turned it to the start position
>> everything would shut down.
>>
>> TG
>> 76 Eleganza 2
>> Kansas City, Mo
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Ok, will change out battery with another one. Is there any other neg grounding spot to use? The one I have the grounding to is to the block which is
under the engine. It’s a little oily there. Then going from memory it seem to have another cable from that grounding point that went over to the
frame, which appeared to be a attempt to add additional grounding to the block ground. If it is a grounding issue I will run thru all those
connections and wire brush clean them and make sure they are tight. I’m planning on cleaning up all these connections to get good electrical
contact and replacing any wiring or cables that look bad. Any general protocol or procedures in replacement and cleaning of wire or cable and their
connections you guys use?

Thanks,
TG
 
Tom,

At this point, you definitely need to clean ALL of the large battery
cables' connections. And while you've got each of them disconnected,
carefully examine and strongly tug on the connector -- try to pull it off
of the cable. If you succeed, you did a GOOD thing: found the problem.

The number you asked for is 229 nine thirty-eight 27 ninety-seven.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 12:12 PM tom geiger via Gmclist <

> Ok, will change out battery with another one. Is there any other neg
> grounding spot to use? The one I have the grounding to is to the block
> which is
> under the engine. It’s a little oily there. Then going from memory it
> seem to have another cable from that grounding point that went over to the
> frame, which appeared to be a attempt to add additional grounding to the
> block ground. If it is a grounding issue I will run thru all those
> connections and wire brush clean them and make sure they are tight. I’m
> planning on cleaning up all these connections to get good electrical
> contact and replacing any wiring or cables that look bad. Any general
> protocol or procedures in replacement and cleaning of wire or cable and
> their
> connections you guys use?
>
> Thanks,
> TG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Somewhere I think Ken B did a nice writeup on GROUNDING. You should read it first. And the engine is the star ground point for the chassis.
Everything goes home to there, the central or star point. And remember when working on any 12V negative ground system, protocol is to remove the
NEGATIVE battery terminal first and reconnect it last.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Do NOT change the negative ground point for the negative battery cable. The engine block is the MASTER ground for everything powered the engine
driven electrical system. Oil on the connection will not hurt anything and is actually beneficial because it retards corrosion / oxidaytion of the
connection. I frequently promote the use of anti-oxidation grease on any connection you have apart.

When we say clean we are talking electrically clean, meaning no corrosion / oxidation on the contact surfaces of the cables. I frequently use
stainless tooth or star between cables to bite into the surfaces of the terminals to make a better electrical connection.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana