New to me 26foot

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Pghdave

Member
Apr 10, 2022
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I am in process of buying 1973 gmc motorhome.
Questions I have after I get engine running can it be moved before air bags are made functional?
I have a pretty good knowledge of old gm motors and transmissions and camper trailers but a lot of different workings on this motor home.
Hopefully I can gain some insight.
Thanks Dave
 
Dave,
Find a 13.5inch length of 1-1/2 inch pipe and cut a length of half inch threaded rod to go through it and the airbag mounting holes. Secure with double nuts at each end and you will have replaced the air bag to get you close to ride height. Not expensive and not too difficult if you can get a jack under the bogie carrier. Just remember the frame is reinforced at the bogie carrier and you can NOT jack at random places on the frame under the coach. Remember also that you are essentially unsprung at this point and combining the cheater pipe with way out of date tires is a recipe for disaster. Having cautioned you I will admit that when I blew a stock airbag I had a cheater pipe on board and I installed it and drove nearly 150 miles to where I could fix it. I was on good tires though.
 
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Dave,
For starters (no pun intended) if you can't put in a key and drive it, it should be a very good price.
Please read and digest what Larry sent you. It is very easy to do serious damage to and engine that has not been run in an extended period.
Next, for the rear suspension, have you tried powering up the pump and doing it the way it was made? It might just work. If the pump does not power up, there is a snifter valve on the air tank that is under the battery tray on the forward starboard (Right Front) corner. You can put air into the system there.
If you cannot do that, then a next easy and cheap trick is to go and buy a pair of 1/4 pipe snifter valves (a schrader - tire valve on a male pipe thread), put it in where the air line is currently. It will take about 80psi to get the coach to ride height.
Word of Warning here: If you are going to do anything with old airsprings, stay clear as much as you can because they have been known to "go off". Speaking of, if she has T skirts at the bogies, you might just as well take them off as you start.
One last thing - When you are the care taker of a TZE (the start of the VIN) you are a member of an amazing community of helping and supportive people. To that end, go to GMC Assist list and collect the recent copy. You may already have an old friend in striking distance that you need to meet.
Matt
 
Matt thank you
The P.O. started the motor and sent me a video of it running he did pressurize the oil system before starting.
He also installed new air bags but did not hook everything back up I noticed the leveling valves were not connected.
I do have my work ahead of me but have worked on many things mechanical over the years. I did look it over and it seems to be very solid but welcome any advice I can get.
I am excited and can see the quality of this RV
Thank you Dave Lux
 
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Forgot to mention the P.O. Had boxes of new parts he bought including new calipers wheel cylinders brake hoses and many other new and used parts .
 
pghdave set priorities in a list one thing at a time remember it is a motor vehicle first.. Best Wishes Larry 78/455 XPB
 
Dave,
It sounds like you have a keeper there....
One more little thing. Get a spiral bound small notebook to be a maintenance log. I break mine up into sections and you can decide what these are for your thinking. Record both changes made and regular PM maintenance. You kind of have to do this because if you do this right, then in a very short time, it will all be a blur.
I bet you got the whole set of maintenance manuals with it. If not they can be downloaded at GMCMI.com.
When you can, seek out a local chapter to join and GMCMI for the parts book.

Lastly, because it does sound like you will be traveling sooner rather than later, I past this to all new owners because it close to how you might be welcomed in my waterman's world.

May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.

Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum...

Matt
 
Thank you Matt
I will get all manuals there were 3 sets including service manuals.
A log book is a good idea I can’t wait to get it back to my house in Pittsburgh and tear into things and figure out what is needed.
Just tossing around weather to keep 16.5 tires or go with 16 inch rims and tires.
Lot to figure soon.
I do think I am going to enjoy this site.
 
Dave,
I can help you decision on wheels and tires.

I used to have a friend at Firestone (the last manufacturer of 8.75x16.5 in the US). I have lost track of him and I believe he has retired anyway, but when we last talked he side that the plan he saw was to keep the tooling for an indefinite time, but run on demand only. At that time, they were already down to one run a year. The remaining application was agricultural and not really high enough to pay for the set up. This is grim for a traveler that might need a tire on the road.

The cost of locating good steel 6x16 with the correct bore (4-9/16) and the round not the conical center and then getting those blasted and coated will put you a long ways toward alloy wheels. This is if you can find 7 of them.
Some years back, I scrounged up and bought 16 and had to scrap 3 of those due to run-out. I kept 7 and sold off the other six. Remember that these wheels were used in trucks that did not lead an easy life.

A lot of owners are running successfully with wheels that are lug centered not hub centered, so that is an option, Unfortunately Alcoa has dropped their line that works for us.

Interesting note - in a discussion with a guy that used to work for a wheel supplier to GM, he noted that they inspected all the wheels for the TZE line and turned the ones that were rejected over to the truck line.

Matt