At the GMCMI rally last fall (2019) we purchased a set of day-night shades from Gary Coaster. We wanted valence boxes (I hope that's the proper term)
that held the shades against the curvature of the window. I also wanted the valences to be easy to clean and as slim as possible to take up the least
amount of space.
I saw some made of PVC by Kerry Pinkerton so I thought I would give that a try. It worked out very well and Paula is pleased!
I made a jig of the wall curvature by holding a piece of wood along the door opening and tracing the curve at the window height. I then cut along the
traced curved to make the jig.
I used PVC fence posts which I ripped on the table saw to make 4 right-angle pieces. I put the jig in my Work-Mate along with the PVC piece to curve.
While heating the PVC I would clamp the jig tighter with the Work-mate. I found that heating the PVC to 80C was the sweet spot where it just began to
soften. I then let the piece cool while still in the jig so it would set with the curve in place.
I then made a top and bottom using finger-jointed clear pine and used oak wall baseboard turned upside-down to finish the top of the valence. The wood
was then stained to match. Where the top was hid behind a cabinet, I did not need the top of the valence of course.
We also got the front windshield blinds. These came with "I-Beam" type curtain carriers. Since there was already a "C-type" track in place, I
purchased the sew-in T-tabs and used those instead. I'm not sure why there is not an option to have the T-tabs instead of the I-beam as the C-track
was OEM from my understanding. Anyway the T-tab work great without the hassle of changing the tracks.
I've posted some photos here:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7336-new-blinds.html
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
that held the shades against the curvature of the window. I also wanted the valences to be easy to clean and as slim as possible to take up the least
amount of space.
I saw some made of PVC by Kerry Pinkerton so I thought I would give that a try. It worked out very well and Paula is pleased!
I made a jig of the wall curvature by holding a piece of wood along the door opening and tracing the curve at the window height. I then cut along the
traced curved to make the jig.
I used PVC fence posts which I ripped on the table saw to make 4 right-angle pieces. I put the jig in my Work-Mate along with the PVC piece to curve.
While heating the PVC I would clamp the jig tighter with the Work-mate. I found that heating the PVC to 80C was the sweet spot where it just began to
soften. I then let the piece cool while still in the jig so it would set with the curve in place.
I then made a top and bottom using finger-jointed clear pine and used oak wall baseboard turned upside-down to finish the top of the valence. The wood
was then stained to match. Where the top was hid behind a cabinet, I did not need the top of the valence of course.
We also got the front windshield blinds. These came with "I-Beam" type curtain carriers. Since there was already a "C-type" track in place, I
purchased the sew-in T-tabs and used those instead. I'm not sure why there is not an option to have the T-tabs instead of the I-beam as the C-track
was OEM from my understanding. Anyway the T-tab work great without the hassle of changing the tracks.
I've posted some photos here:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g7336-new-blinds.html
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
