new owner questions

We stock the bags for all as people need hem in a rush. Contrary to belief
, there are too many configurations of same style.
When you get a chance to visit our web site, you'll realize were not a
hobby shop.
We have 3 people that handle tech support as well.

> WOW! Thanks to all for your advice/opinions, didn't think I would get such
> a great response, I think I'll just go with a split boot for now since it
> sounds the easiest/fastest and I can get her back on the road. if it
> doesn't hold up I can redo it later.
>
> Ken, what is a double wrap clamp? do I need to get a special tool to use
> them?
>
> Tom, I found on one of your old posts that you used Dorman 03609 ,did you
> use the clamps that came with it?
>
> and do you know what bag is used on the Harrison system and where I can
> get a spare to keep in the coach.
>
> Thanks again to all, so great to be able to get such good advice so
> quickly and look forward to meeting some of you at a rally soon.
>
> Joe
>
>
> --
> Joe Williams
> 1978 Royale rear twin
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Joe,

Double-wrap clamps do require a special tool, which can be had for $150. The simplest, cheapest one is fine. They're really just a simple
strip of 1/4" wide stainless steel with a special buckle to secure the
ends. When installed, the inner loop of SS provides a low-friction surface
for the outer loop to slide on as the band is tightened. That causes the
securing force to be applied perpendicular to the rubber, preventing
"puckering". Ordinary single-wrap clamps tend to move the rubber parallel
to the clamp, causing it to bunch up and create leakage-ways. Also, the
buckles are very low profile so there's less danger of them striking fixed
objects.

If you have to buy bulk band and buckles, it's a little expensive, but
you'll find a lot of uses for them besides CV boots, making the average
cost per use very reasonable. Here's my source:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-banding/=18erplk

Band: 5422K53
Buckles: 5422K67
Tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=164
​or: https://www.napaonline.com/p/SER30950​ (you may have to search for
that PN)

NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on, or
3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.

If you're forced to use one of the more popular "squeeze to lock"
single-wrap clamps, I'd recommend lubricating the inside of the clamp to
minimize puckering.

Ken H.

> ​...
>
> Ken, what is a double wrap clamp? do I need to get a special tool to use
> them?
>
​...​
 
Ken
Put a UJ in front of the clamp number. Last fall I bought a box of 10 from
my Napa Store.
Now try to find an inner cv boot for the drive shaft.
UJ3416
UJ3415
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJQUJ3416

On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Joe,
>
> Double-wrap clamps do require a special tool, which can be had for >$150. The simplest, cheapest one is fine. They're really just a simple
> strip of 1/4" wide stainless steel with a special buckle to secure the
> ends. When installed, the inner loop of SS provides a low-friction surface
> for the outer loop to slide on as the band is tightened. That causes the
> securing force to be applied perpendicular to the rubber, preventing
> "puckering". Ordinary single-wrap clamps tend to move the rubber parallel
> to the clamp, causing it to bunch up and create leakage-ways. Also, the
> buckles are very low profile so there's less danger of them striking fixed
> objects.
>
> If you have to buy bulk band and buckles, it's a little expensive, but
> you'll find a lot of uses for them besides CV boots, making the average
> cost per use very reasonable. Here's my source:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-banding/=18erplk
>
> Band: 5422K53
> Buckles: 5422K67
> Tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=164
> ​or: https://www.napaonline.com/p/SER30950​ (you may have to search
> for
> that PN)
>
> NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on, or
> 3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.
>
> If you're forced to use one of the more popular "squeeze to lock"
> single-wrap clamps, I'd recommend lubricating the inside of the clamp to
> minimize puckering.
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > ​...
> >
> > Ken, what is a double wrap clamp? do I need to get a special tool to use
> > them?
> >
> ​...​
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
By golly, that worked. Wonder why they don't give any specifications other
than "1/4" wide"?

Ken H.

> Ken
> Put a UJ in front of the clamp number. Last fall I bought a box of 10 from
> my Napa Store.
> Now try to find an inner cv boot for the drive shaft.
> UJ3416
> UJ3415
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJQUJ3416
>
> On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Ken Henderson

> ​...
> > NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on,
> or
> > 3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.
> ​...
>
 
Napa did a redo on their web page and for myself it was a bit hard at first
to navigate.
To find a part I go to Parts and Accessories, this gives a drop down menu
and I select the category, than a sub-category that the part would most
likely be in. Than if I have a part number I will put that into the search
box.

Example, if I want to look up Optima batteries I would click on Parts and
Accessories, than electrical, followed by sub-category batteries. Now I
put Optima in search panel and get the listing of what Optima batteries are
available.

By the way the UJ stands for u-joint. Who would have thought!

On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:

> By golly, that worked. Wonder why they don't give any specifications other
> than "1/4" wide"?
>
> Ken H.
>

>
> > Ken
> > Put a UJ in front of the clamp number. Last fall I bought a box of 10
> from
> > my Napa Store.
> > Now try to find an inner cv boot for the drive shaft.
> > UJ3416
> > UJ3415
> > https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJQUJ3416
> >
> > On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Ken Henderson

> > ​...
> > > NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on,
> > or
> > > 3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.
> > ​...
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Any time you do a single weight clamp - radiator hose, CV joint, etc.,take a small hammer - soft face if you have one - and tap around the entire
joint while you tighten the clamp. This reduces the tendancy for the rubber to bunch up under the clamp.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Good idea!

The Project Apollo Portable Life Support System had beaded end aluminum metal tubing that water and oxygen flowed through. They were
joined together with silicone tube "unions" clamped with stainless steel ratcheting band clamps. To assure the stainless steel
clamps exerted the same force around the entire OD two layers of Teflon tape were wrapped around the silicone rubber tubes.

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 10:56 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] new owner questions

Any time you do a single weight clamp - radiator hose, CV joint, etc.,take a small hammer - soft face if you have one - and tap
around the entire joint while you tighten the clamp. This reduces the tendancy for the rubber to bunch up under the clamp.

--johnny
 
Hey everyone, I just bought a 78 Kingsley and so far I really enjoy it! Just had a couple questions for you all...

First thing I've got to do is oil change, transmission fluid change, and final drive fluid change. Do you all have any luck getting the GMC on ramps
or is jacking the front and using jack stands the preferable method? Also when it comes time to do a tire rotation, do you all have any luck getting a
local mechanic with a lift large enough to lift the coach? Or should I plan on finding a way to get it on all fours myself? Unfortunately I'm a state
or two away from any of the dedicated GMC shops.

Also wondering what your experiences have been with the transmission on these machines. Mine is original and as far as I can tell, no record of any
work has been done to it aside from regular filter changes. How worried should that make me? I know those aren't getting any cheaper on these and the
coach has ~114,000 miles. I was concerned about the originality of the transmission when buying this one but mostly everything else has been done on
it and it has had regular service from a popular GMC service location.

Lastly, I want to be prepared for a potential breakdown situation as we plan to take this thing a long way from home. What is in your toolkit on board
that you find essential? I know I'm going to pick up a hook to go on the bottle jack, also thinking of getting a bar in case an air bag fails.
Anything else along those lines you all recommend?

Thanks in advance for all the help, I'm really excited to be a part of this community!
 
Oil changes are simple. I get under mine without even lifting it.

Trans fluid and final drive fluid, if you do not have drain plugs, are a little more difficult and will require lifting. Ramps will work as long as
they are heavy enough. The front weighs 4000 to 5000 pounds. There are ramps out there that will easily hold it or you can make your own out of
stack of 2x4's or 4x4's and simply drive on them. My plastic ramps are rated at 12,000 pounds.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Sky,

Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum....

You found your way here and that is good, but there is some things you should do right away.
First is go to the Bdub page and get a copy of the Black list (aka GMC assist list). Keep a copy in the coach.
Next, from Bdub's page find and go to the registry and make sure we know who you are and where your coach calls home now.
Last, but by no means least, is fill in the sigfile like you see everybody else here has. (Control Panel/Account Settings and scroll down - be sure to
go down to "Update when you are done.) This has some serious reasons. It should have your real name, This is so that when you meet other owners,
they know who you are and they don't have to back up and repeat everything. It should also have a bit about the coach. I know you wrote 78 Kingsley,
but that should be on every entry as it does matter and so do major mods. Lastly, a geographic reference helps. If there is someone that understands
an issue you are having or can direct you to someone else that does, he can do so. We do a lot of helping each other here.

Now, about getting under the coach.... Ramps are safest, but if you have the luxury of working on a concrete floor of a enclosed structure, 3 ton
jackstands and a floor jack are a good investment. There are several here that built ramps of construction grade lumber and they are quite
successful. That will take a search and if you don't find it, ask.

Draining the transmission is always messy. The vacuum modulator is in the passenger (starboard) side just above the pan flange. It comes out easily.
If you pull that out first and let it drain down, there will be less of a surprise factor when you get the pan loose. The entire pan will still be
full when you try to bring in down. When you buy a replacement transmission filter, be ready to take it back. They are all Chinese now regardless of
the box that it may be in and there is a good chance that the draw tube will be undersize. If it is wrong, take that back and ask them to try again.
It should come with a pan gasket and a new O-ring. Put the filter up with both the new and the old O-ring. That provide an extra safety for the
filter.

While you are at it, go get a good grease gun and a couple of tubes of Valvoline SynPower. The grease is not cheap, but it is still cheaper than
parts. I do not suggest a powered grease gun because I like to feel the grease going in as well as look for it coming out of the seals. I am
currently using a gun with a flexible whip and a pistol grip, I am too old to be flexible enough to hold the coupler on and not shake it loose pumping
the gun. There are 14 zerk fittings in a typical GMC front, but that can change for lots of reasons. I do use a two hand on the bogies, but then you
are standing up. I try real hard to over grease everything.

There is a problem with the lube oil fill that you may have to address. You have a 403 and I do not know if it has the same issue as a 455. If I put
the book 6 quarts in after a filter change, that top quart blows off it about 500 miles. If I do not make it up, I can run another 1500 before the
stick is down another quart. So, I just fill with five and add one more at 2Kmi.

About airsprings (the real name of the airbags in the rear), never put any part of your body that you are fond of under a GMC that is not securely
supported. If an airspring blows out (and this can happen at any time) the back end of the coach could crush strawberries. Yes, it gets that low.

Now on to the fun part.
You have just found a couple of thousand brand new old friends. (Remember the Assist list?) There are people on there that no longer even have a
coach at all, but they are on that list to be a help if you need it. You can imagine what that says for the community. These are wonderful helping
and supportive people that want nothing more than to see you enjoy your coach as much as they have. It is much more than just a new toy, it makes you
a part of a community like few others. You will find that it extends you life's range by an amazing amount. The only other community like this that
I know of is that of the watermen that are my world. because of that, I have take taken to welcoming a new owner her much as any new owner or vessel
is welcomed there. So,

May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.

Welcome Andrew

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Andrew,
Call me on our toll free line so we can cover all your concerns.
800-752-7502

> Hey everyone, I just bought a 78 Kingsley and so far I really enjoy it!
> Just had a couple questions for you all...
>
> First thing I've got to do is oil change, transmission fluid change, and
> final drive fluid change. Do you all have any luck getting the GMC on ramps
> or is jacking the front and using jack stands the preferable method? Also
> when it comes time to do a tire rotation, do you all have any luck getting a
> local mechanic with a lift large enough to lift the coach? Or should I
> plan on finding a way to get it on all fours myself? Unfortunately I'm a
> state
> or two away from any of the dedicated GMC shops.
>
> Also wondering what your experiences have been with the transmission on
> these machines. Mine is original and as far as I can tell, no record of any
> work has been done to it aside from regular filter changes. How worried
> should that make me? I know those aren't getting any cheaper on these and
> the
> coach has ~114,000 miles. I was concerned about the originality of the
> transmission when buying this one but mostly everything else has been done
> on
> it and it has had regular service from a popular GMC service location.
>
> Lastly, I want to be prepared for a potential breakdown situation as we
> plan to take this thing a long way from home. What is in your toolkit on
> board
> that you find essential? I know I'm going to pick up a hook to go on the
> bottle jack, also thinking of getting a bar in case an air bag fails.
> Anything else along those lines you all recommend?
>
> Thanks in advance for all the help, I'm really excited to be a part of
> this community!
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Most recommended spare is a credit card and towing service. Black List is a must item. Carry the latest GMCMI parts list. Some places you go may not
have any service for you to access the net. Get the manuals from bdud's site and put them on your laptop.
Enjoy your GMC. Join a GMC Club and go to their rallies. Join International and really go to their rallies. Be ready for strangers asking about your
vehicle. Or, other strangers telling you about theirs they used to own and wished they still did.
Tom, MS II
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
Be careful rotating the tires as most shops don't understand where the lift points are and jacking in the wrong places will cause damage to the
flimsy frame. It's really a simple job to do yourself doing one side at a time. Using a pair of jacks(or a single jack if that's all you have) and
jack stands or blocking for safety, lift one side at a time. Nothing complex at all, just a bit heavy especially if you have steel wheels. I've gotten
so I use a pry bar to position the wheels into place anymore. Just gettin old I guess.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
 
The last several times I rotated or replaced the tires I jacked it up with a floor Jack and supported it on the front cross member and rear bogeys .
Gave me an excuse to inspect all brakes and rear bearings also tightness of front bearings and ball joints. Also a good time to clean up the
alcoa's.Costco liked not dealing with the coach and I liked not having to worry about them screwing it up.
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
 
Forgot to add to must carry list; HEI coil and governor gear with nail. Either of these fail, and you are on the side of the road now. Both are very
easy to replace, if needed.
Tom, MS II
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG
 
Hal,

I'm sorry but I am going to disagree with you; it is not a flimsy frame, the lower horizontal cross section of the "[" frame rails
were not designed to be jacked under.

Maintenance Manual X-7525 / Section Index 0 - General Information / Pages 0-2 through 0-4 provide clear instructions how and where
to jack the coach.

Whenever I see a frame rail that has a lower horizontal cross section that is bent upwards I know that was caused by someone that
didn't read the MM.

Ragusa (http://www.ragusarv.com/) makes a neat tool to hang the wheels on the studs:

RV-09 Wheel Lifter Bar $29.00 ea

This lever bar allows you to lift heavy tires by placing the lifter into the center hole of wheel and over 4" dust cap. Lift wheel
and rotate to locate studs.

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Hal StClair
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 1:47 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Owner Questions

Be careful rotating the tires as most shops don't understand where the lift points are and jacking in the wrong places will cause
damage to the flimsy frame. It's really a simple job to do yourself doing one side at a time. Using a pair of jacks (or a single
jack if that's all you have) and jack stands or blocking for safety, lift one side at a time. Nothing complex at all, just a bit
heavy especially if you have steel wheels. I've gotten so I use a pry bar to position the wheels into place anymore. Just gettin old
I guess.
Hal
--
 
Rob, I still say it's flimsy-it may be adequate but it's still really light weight. Replacement's are dramatically beefier.
Hal

> Hal,
>
> I'm sorry but I am going to disagree with you; it is not a flimsy frame, the lower horizontal cross section of the "[" frame rails
> were not designed to be jacked under.
>
> Maintenance Manual X-7525 / Section Index 0 - General Information / Pages 0-2 through 0-4 provide clear instructions how and where
> to jack the coach.
>
> Whenever I see a frame rail that has a lower horizontal cross section that is bent upwards I know that was caused by someone that
> didn't read the MM.
>
> Ragusa (http://www.ragusarv.com/) makes a neat tool to hang the wheels on the studs:
>
> RV-09 Wheel Lifter Bar $29.00 ea
>
> This lever bar allows you to lift heavy tires by placing the lifter into the center hole of wheel and over 4" dust cap. Lift wheel
> and rotate to locate studs.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Hal StClair
> Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 1:47 PM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Owner Questions
>
> Be careful rotating the tires as most shops don't understand where the lift points are and jacking in the wrong places will cause
> damage to the flimsy frame. It's really a simple job to do yourself doing one side at a time. Using a pair of jacks (or a single
> jack if that's all you have) and jack stands or blocking for safety, lift one side at a time. Nothing complex at all, just a bit
> heavy especially if you have steel wheels. I've gotten so I use a pry bar to position the wheels into place anymore. Just gettin old
> I guess.
> Hal
> --
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
 
> Hey everyone, I just bought a 78 Kingsley and so far I really enjoy it! Just had a couple questions for you all...
>
> First thing I've got to do is oil change, transmission fluid change, and final drive fluid change. Do you all have any luck getting the GMC on
> ramps or is jacking the front and using jack stands the preferable method?
>
> Also wondering what your experiences have been with the transmission on these machines. Mine is original and as far as I can tell, no record of
> any work has been done to it aside from regular filter changes. How worried should that make me?
>
> Lastly, I want to be prepared for a potential breakdown situation as we plan to take this thing a long way from home. What is in your toolkit on
> board that you find essential?
>
> Thanks in advance for all the help, I'm really excited to be a part of this community!

Welcome! I also have '78 Kingsley, you got the best of the best, but I am partial!
First thing, yes change all fluids, engine oil (I use Mobil 1 15-50), atf and final drive AND coolant! The olds engine is very durable but it's
Achilles heel is cooling. Second thing, unless your PO gave you a very detailed maintenance log, change / replace everything made of rubber; tires,
belts, hoses, brake hoses, oil cooler hoses (yes the originals are rubber).
Transmission? THM 425 is based on the 400. Extremely heavy duty and will run forever if it has not been overheated. There is a direct relationship
between clutch life and trans oil temperature. If a PO installed an aux cooler he extended your trans life considerably (do you see a common thread -
cooling is extremely important on these vehicles!). Modulators and governors can be a little problematic - good idea to carry spares.
Toolkit? I carry a small assortment of hand tools including a digital volt ohm meter and an infrared thermometer (great for checking tire, brake and
bearing temps).
Spare parts - I carry an HEI coil, module and pick-up coil. A spare starter motor, fuel filters, ignition switch and fuses.

Mine has been pretty reliable after much maintenance and two "fixes" 1) a aux electric fuel pump to address the dreaded vapor lock, and 2) an aluminum
radiator to address cooling.
--
Chris Geils - Twin Cities
1978 26' Kingsley w/ very few mods; Headers, Progressive Dynamics 9040, aux trans cooler, one repaint in stock colors, R134a, Al rad, 50k mi
 
Hal,

Now I'm going to demonstrate how pedantic I am.

I have been participating in this forum for 10 years and can't remember ever reading about a frame that failed because it was light
weight.

I use the email system and have folders for particular systems I checked my Frame folder and found stuff about rust damaged frames
but nothing about frames that bent from bring too weak.

Yep, Dan Stuckey's replacement frames are "beefier" as were the frames Clarence Buskirk used for his 29 foot stretches.

The GMC was designed by a team of professional automotive engineers, each with specialties, they "ran the numbers" and designed a
frame that met the requirements of the vehicle. I wonder if anyone that frequents this forum has the capabilities to do the same.

In my mind we're "tinkerers" (at least I am) with varying skill levels, I've seen your GMC and it is awesome.

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Hal StClair
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 12:18 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Owner Questions

Rob, I still say it's flimsy-it may be adequate but it's still really light weight. Replacement's are dramatically beefier.
Hal
 
Rob

I have never heard of a frame failure unless rust had compromised the coach.

However, GM did increase the stiffness/gauge of the frame at some point during the production. Bill Bryant once posted the date.

Dennis

> Hal,
>
> Now I'm going to demonstrate how pedantic I am.
>
> I have been participating in this forum for 10 years and can't remember ever reading about a frame that failed because it was light
> weight.
>
> I use the email system and have folders for particular systems I checked my Frame folder and found stuff about rust damaged frames
> but nothing about frames that bent from bring too weak.
>
> Yep, Dan Stuckey's replacement frames are "beefier" as were the frames Clarence Buskirk used for his 29 foot stretches.
>
> The GMC was designed by a team of professional automotive engineers, each with specialties, they "ran the numbers" and designed a
> frame that met the requirements of the vehicle. I wonder if anyone that frequents this forum has the capabilities to do the same.
>
> In my mind we're "tinkerers" (at least I am) with varying skill levels, I've seen your GMC and it is awesome.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Hal StClair
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 12:18 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Owner Questions
>
> Rob, I still say it's flimsy-it may be adequate but it's still really light weight. Replacement's are dramatically beefier.
> Hal
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
 
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