New owner of an old RV

[Boomeh]

Greetings all,
I’m joining this forum prematurely because my Dad has been working on what he says is a ‘76 transmode. Though lots of things I see online lend me to believe it’s not called “transmode” for a ‘76 but I digress. He bought it and has done a whole lot of work to it, hoses and plugs and switches and tires and brakes and just about everything. He’s retired and wants to use it but right now he’s caring for his 90+ yo mother-in-law. I’m a gas pipeline inspector that hates pull-behind campers so he wants to give it to me. As of now there are a couple of issues. I figured here would be the place to post all of this, sorry it’s so long. He wants to make sure the brakes are bled properly, of course. The previous owners swerved to miss an animal on the road and the cover on top for the AC system blew off and was ran over and destroyed. I have no idea where to start on that one. He removed the antenna because it caused a leak, some panels had to be removed but a faint smell remains, I’m assuming from the spray-in foam? Also, there’s an issue with the fueling system we’re hoping doesn’t require dropping the tank. All other fuel hoses have been replaced. To crank it we have to put some fuel in the carburetor but after that it runs like a champ. Transmission has been serviced by a very reputable specialist. So the brakes and fuel issue are the only things really keeping me from driving this thing all the way from Alabama out to Missouri. That will be a stress-test so I hope that pans out. I really don’t want to have to tow it. Ok, so does anyone have any advice or suggestions related to the issues we’re having? Thanks in advance!

 

[Matt Colie]

Boomeh,
I think you have come a right place. It could well be a Transmode. They were shipped every year except 73.
If you go over to gmcmi.com and dig around, there is no end of the documentation available. This can be identified by reading the VIN. Transmodes were just empty coaches and most were upfit by other companies. Some also became specialty vehicles.

I suggest that when you have issues, you post questions as separate posts. It would also help both here and at the older forum, that you build a sigfile with at least the coach information.

For some questions, you may be able to find quick answer just by doing a key word search on either or both forums.

The other forum is older lots of ways. Both the software that runs it is older and kind of clunky because it is actually a mailing list, but the members there are older too and it include many long term (really long term) owners. We used to have a couple of original owners.

Dropping the tanks is both not terrible and not a bad idea. The rubber hoses on top of the tanks may have rotted out. If look up "Lifting the tanks working alone" at that other forum, you find a piece written by a guy that had his tanks down 5 times before I got all the problems fixed.

I don't know where you are, but if you are going to bleed brakes, wrap the bleed screws with teflon tape so the don't corrode in place and be sure to put the rubber caps on the bleeders. Either pressure bleed (some sells the tool to do this), gravity bleed (works well to the rear) or vacuum bleed, but don't pedal bleed if the master cylinder has not been replaced recently. When the seals stroke through the unused area, they can be damaged.

This is a community of supportive and helping people. If you put up a sigfile with a name (we like to know who we are helping and it is much less awkward when we do meet), a short about the coach including major mods, and a geographic reference because you may already have an old friend that you have not met yet real near by.

Matt

 

[pvfjr]

Welcome!

Check to see if the fuel lines are being compressed between body and frame due to thinning body mount pads. I also like to bench check the fuel switching valve by applying 12V directly and blowing air through each port.

Definitely check the rubber lines wherever you can. If you still have the mechanical pump on the engine, the whole run from there to the tanks will be under suction and can suck air.

 

[Boomeh]

Welcome!

Check to see if the fuel lines are being compressed between body and frame due to thinning body mount pads. I also like to bench check the fuel switching valve by applying 12V directly and blowing air through each port.

Definitely check the rubber lines wherever you can. If you still have the mechanical pump on the engine, the whole run from there to the tanks will be under suction and can suck air.

Thank you both for your responses and the useful information. I’m going to be back when I’m further along.

 

[Matt Colie]

Boomeh,
If you want good and fast answers, please include a sigfile. These coaches may look a lot alike, but when you get into them, the variations between models and years can be important. Sigfile need not be as long as mine, but if you think it might matter, include it.
Matt

 

[tmsnyder]

If this has been sitting any length of time, I'd recommend getting a spin on fuel filter installed along the frame behind the drivers seat. Rust from the tanks or filler pipe can make it into the carb and cause all kinds of problems. You'll want one eventually anyway, might as well put one on now.

Another good addition is a 12v fuel pump powered by the selector valve power, it allows you to prime your carb for easier starting after it's been sitting. Fills the bowls and accelerator pump, give it a couple pumps / squirts and it should start right up. No more dumping gas into the top of the carb.

Speaking of this, is your accelerator pump working? Pump the accelerator and see if it shoots gasoline into your carb. If not, the pump might be shot, rebuild the carb and put in a fresh ethanol resistant accelerator pump.

I believe that AC cover is a common RV part. Google it.

Matt Colie <<written by a guy that had his tanks down 5 times before I got all the problems fixed.>> LOL I hear you, I had mine off at least 3 times.