> Thanks Jim. I'll give that a try. What do you think about the remote mounting of the fuel pump idea? I guess I'll have to see if the gas can idea
> makes any difference first. The funny thing is that the old generator ran for hours on end, while driving under the same conditions. The only issue
> I ever had with it was fuel pump related, and it acted very similar to what this one is doing. A new fuel pump completely cured that problem. I
> suppose the brand new Mr Gasket 42S pump was bad right from the get go.
My approach would be to positively confirm that it is indeed a fuel delivery problem and then go from there. By the process of elimination I would sequentially rule out the fuel lines to the main tanks, then the fuel solenoid/filter/pump, and then the carb. It may take remote mounting of the pump to solve your problem, I do not know - but I do know that I’d only do it if absolutely necessary.
Is it indeed the case that when the engine stops after running 20-40 minutes that the carb bowl is dry each and every time? When this happens is the float observed to be at the lowest point of its travel when the bowl is removed? I worked on an Onan at our rally that would run for a while and then die; the owner had worked on it was very frustrated. Each time it died I carefully pulled off the bowl and each time I found that the float was up - held there by the needle being stuck in the seat. The solution was to rebuild the carb with one of the K1-LMB kits which contains a new needle, seat and bronze seat cup. Note that not all K1-LMB kits are the same, some have the bronze cup and some don’t - the former are much easier to install. After the rebuild it is imperative to follow the procedure in the Onan manual to check and - if necessary - set the float travel.
Re the 42S pump - I bought one of those to use at our GMC rallies and the thing stopped pumping after only a couple hours of operation - it was still clicking - just no pumping action. I do realize that some have had very good luck with them; mine was probably just a random dud.
Re electric pumps in general: IMO absolutely nothing beats the original Bendix pump for reliability and serviceability; there’s a reason that pump design was used by the millions on military engines. I have a turbine-powered APU in its original military configuration and it has a 24V Bendix pump on it which delivers about 30 GPH of Jet-A into a very thirsty machine. The Bendix is very easy to maintain - you can pull out the pump internals and clean/check every part of it.
—Jim
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
> makes any difference first. The funny thing is that the old generator ran for hours on end, while driving under the same conditions. The only issue
> I ever had with it was fuel pump related, and it acted very similar to what this one is doing. A new fuel pump completely cured that problem. I
> suppose the brand new Mr Gasket 42S pump was bad right from the get go.
My approach would be to positively confirm that it is indeed a fuel delivery problem and then go from there. By the process of elimination I would sequentially rule out the fuel lines to the main tanks, then the fuel solenoid/filter/pump, and then the carb. It may take remote mounting of the pump to solve your problem, I do not know - but I do know that I’d only do it if absolutely necessary.
Is it indeed the case that when the engine stops after running 20-40 minutes that the carb bowl is dry each and every time? When this happens is the float observed to be at the lowest point of its travel when the bowl is removed? I worked on an Onan at our rally that would run for a while and then die; the owner had worked on it was very frustrated. Each time it died I carefully pulled off the bowl and each time I found that the float was up - held there by the needle being stuck in the seat. The solution was to rebuild the carb with one of the K1-LMB kits which contains a new needle, seat and bronze seat cup. Note that not all K1-LMB kits are the same, some have the bronze cup and some don’t - the former are much easier to install. After the rebuild it is imperative to follow the procedure in the Onan manual to check and - if necessary - set the float travel.
Re the 42S pump - I bought one of those to use at our GMC rallies and the thing stopped pumping after only a couple hours of operation - it was still clicking - just no pumping action. I do realize that some have had very good luck with them; mine was probably just a random dud.
Re electric pumps in general: IMO absolutely nothing beats the original Bendix pump for reliability and serviceability; there’s a reason that pump design was used by the millions on military engines. I have a turbine-powered APU in its original military configuration and it has a 24V Bendix pump on it which delivers about 30 GPH of Jet-A into a very thirsty machine. The Bendix is very easy to maintain - you can pull out the pump internals and clean/check every part of it.
—Jim
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH