New Member, Seeking Information on Servicing 1977 GMC Stored 6 Years! Next trip is 2500 Miles!

If the coach was running great when parked, you should not need to rebuild the carb. It may be a little varnished from the evap of gas that was in it, but should not be too bad. Suggest mixing 1/4 cup fresh gas and 1/4 cup Seafoam (or MMO) and pour it into the round vent at the top of the carb. Let sit for a few hours, at least. That should dissolve all varnish and leave your carb as good as it was when parked. It is OK to start the engine on this mixture. It will give you a little white smoke for a minute or two, but will also lube the valves nicely. Regarding fuel filters, I installed a Fram G3 filter in the rubber line leading to the mechanical fuel pump (mount it low for easier access). It has the same filtration spec as the tiny filter in the carb base, but 10 times the capacity for rust, and is MUCH easier to replace. It is also transparent, so you can see if it gets loaded up. I would not worry too much about 3 year old gas. A bottle or two of Heet or Seafoam should take care of any water that has collected (probably not much since the tanks were full). The octane rating may have gone down a little, so don't push it too hard until you can add a half-tank of fresh gas. As someone mentioned, keep an eye on the gas filter as you'll most likely get a slug of rust from the tanks. but after a few hundred miles of driving , that should slow down. 'Good on ya" for keeping the coach in the family and enabling a new generation of GMC lovers!
 
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I just used bare header bolts and Remflex gaskets (very nice gaskets). I'll try loctite if I see any problems with them loosening, but Remflex claims their gaskets rebound in such a way that loosening is less of a problem. We'll see.
I"m a big fan of Remflex gaskets. I've used them 5 times without any failures. I like that they don't need to be torqued so tightly. I found that I only needed to re-torque once, and that was very little. Remflex gaskets are heavily loaded with graphite and should be an excellent heat conductor for keeping the headers cool.
 
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What a terrific GMC! Golby did high quality refurbs.

Read Larry Weider's article on starting an engine that has been sitting a long time. https://www.gmcmidwestclassics.org/dormant_engine_start

Shouldn't need to rebuild the carb, but if you do, get with Dick Paterson at Springfield Ignition.

Tires, it's the age that matters. If they're 5 years old, replace them. Don't matter how good they look. They will destroy part of your motorhome. Check the date code on them. https://cdn.wheel-size.com/filer_public/09/54/0954f172-f00c-420e-b0e5-472259fad1b6/dot-codes-6.jpg (this tire was made in the 35th week of 2011)

I installed a ball valve on mine that never leaks. It's a PITA to install. To bypass, get this: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Camco/CAM35983.html
You need it when winterizing anyway.

A/C hose should be easy locally. Use DuraCool or equivalent refrigerant. Less pressure, larger molecules that won't leak as easily, and works better. http://www.bdub.net/Duracool_in_your_GMC.pdf

Sirum GMC sells all kinds of replacement fiberglass. They're the go to folks for tee skirts and flares. But don't install it without replacing old tires.

Generator fuel line? Shouldn't need to, but easily flushed with a Mighty Vac or even a short burst of compressed air.

Remove wheel well for easy access. Use Remflex gasket. Do Not torque the center bolt. Just snug it up.

While your messin with the Onan, install Gary Bovee's Electronic Ignition for it. Best thing you can do for your Onan. https://www.onanelectronicignition.com/
Regarding A/C hose, while crimping is the desirable way to go, I've found that special hose clamps made for A/C systems (they are extra wide and have a little tab to guide you to correct placement) work just fine with the original metal end fittings. I've used these clamps several times and after more than 6 years there is no sign of any leaks whatsoever.
 
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I"m a big fan of Remflex gaskets. I've used them 5 times without any failures. I like that they don't need to be torqued so tightly. I found that I only needed to re-torque once, and that was very little. Remflex gaskets are heavily loaded with graphite and should be an excellent heat conductor for keeping the headers cool.
Thanks for the advise, I will do what you suggested, I am not sure but I thought there was a large metal fuel filter that took a cartridge, this is not the same as the carb inline filter. I plan to use it thermometer to check temp of the wheels and brakes, I guess I can do the same to the tires. Thanks again I appreciate your help and time. Happy Father's day to you all