new guy's questions

R

russ bethel

New member
Apr 28, 1998
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That is correct. You put in the new fluid in the pan and let the
transmission pump it to the torque converter and cooler, thereby displacing
the old fluid with the new fluid. You let the old fluid out by letting it
escape via the return line from the cooler. You want to put in the extra
new fluid in the pan so you do not starve the pump when you let the fluid
out via the cooler line. I have not done this but have been told by a
couple of transmission people that is the way to change all the fluid. You
probably could get a transmission shop to do the fluid change for you if you
could find one that you trust. I am very picky about my transmission
mechanic as I have had a lot of bad experiences with them. I work on a lot
of airport ground equipment and finding a good transmission mechanic is
difficult to find and they seem to keep moving around from shop to shop. I
would talk to an old time native of Branson to find out who is good.

I am told that the Mobil 1 synthetic is compatible with the dextron
transmission fluid.

Russ Bethel
rbethel
 
2 cents worth re synthetic:

My tranny gave out while on a trip a couple of years ago. I lucked out and
found/was-directed-to an ATRA shop in Rocklin, CA (just outside of
Sacramento). They have a hoist that's big enough and I was out of there in 3
days.

I had the final drive (3.50) done at the same time.

Anyways, in talking with the technician that actually did the work, he
recommended going to synthetic. Of course I asked why they don't give the
option in the first place... good ol' economics of the masses was his
answer.

When asked about 'now what?' he said to change tranny fluid at the regular
interval but to use synthetic instead and in a couple of changes it would be
synthetic. He indicated that it would not be a problem to run 'mixed'. They
did use an additive and he recommended adding a refresher at change time.

The shop's name: Dura-Built Transmission. -- I'd go back, but hope I don't
need to for a while :-)

The rig has been around the block a few times since and up/down many hills.

A caution re tranny coolers: make sure that they are NOT mounted via the
popular through the rad clips. Be sure a bracket is fabricated so that the
tranny cooler has it's own 'space'.

On mine, we did not want to chance metal in the tranny portion of the rad so
we installed a large tranny cooler and are not using the cooler in the rad.
Temperatures are excellent but they did use the 'through rad clips' and it
caused a rad leak in the not most convenient place.

Lucked out again and found a Rad Shop in Dorval, Quebec that did the repair
on the rig and added a bracket for the tranny cooler. Been great since.

I'm going to follow the tech's advice and go synthetic soon on the tranny
and once I have an oil leak found/fixed on the engine as well.

Heinz -- www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
 
>
> 3. I have read that installing the Alcoa Classics without changing
> to the longer studs is not advised. How "not advised" is it?

I think that Russ is right. You can run the original studs *if* they
are in good condition. I decided to change mine because I could look at
the nuts and see some with 1/2 thread more showing than some of the
others. In my case the studs are cheap insurance. I would have changed
them even if I hadn't bought the Alcoas.

YMMV,
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Oops, meant to respond to this one also:

>
> 6. Anyone know of a competent shop to do my front bearings within a 3
> hour drive of Springfield, MO (S.W. Missouri).

If you can't find anyone local, you can remove the steering knuckles and
ship them to Cinnabar. They'll service the bearings and return them.
This was in a recent GMC Motorhome News. IIRC, the price was reasonable
- - one hour labor plus parts.

> 7. BTW, if any GMC'er visits Branson, and wants to enjoy a 90 minute
> cruise on my 49 passenger sailing catamaran Spirit of America, just
> tell the crew you want the GMC discount, and you and your spouse can
> ride for free.

Now there's a deal! Thanks!
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
>
> Thanks for the reply. BTW.....do you know what steering
> wheels will work on the GMC besides a wrecked rig? I want to replace
> my (painted or dyed) pink wheel (yes, it matches the painted pink
> dash....but that I can fix.) thanks

There's a nice leather steering wheel out of a late model GMC pickup
that will work. I think Golby sells them, but a little scrounging at
the local salvage yard might turn one up.

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
Re Hubs:

> You can also ship the hubs and knuckles to Dale Vierus in Castel, Tx and he
> will do the job too. Might compare prices with Cinnabar. The one hour labor
> sounds pretty good though.

Folks closer to Castel TX than Ohio may find a savings on the shipping...
Anyone have an idea what the shipping costs are on something like that?

- --

Regards,
John Dolan

jdolan
 
I don't have the slightest idea as to what steering wheel would work. I
would think maybe an Olds or Caddy in the early to mid 70's would be a place
to start but that is just a guess.

Russ Bethel
rbethel
 
Just a thought.

One of the advantages of joining one of the many GMC motorhome clubs (I
joined the GMC Heritage Cruises) is the great amount of technical help
available. No matter what problem you are faced with, someone else has been
there done that, and probably more than one person. In our club they have
bought all of the tools etc to change front bearings and service the hubs,
and loan them on an as available basis. In addition at the last meet several
of our technical experts (Fred Ely and Ed Daniels), gave a hands on
demonstration of servicing the knuckles and bearings, from checking
diminsions and setting up bearings etc to properly removing and replacing
the bearings. Excellent demo and excellent technical discussions.

>Re Hubs:
>
>> You can also ship the hubs and knuckles to Dale Vierus in Castel, Tx and he
>> will do the job too. Might compare prices with Cinnabar. The one hour labor
>> sounds pretty good though.
>
>Folks closer to Castel TX than Ohio may find a savings on the shipping...
>Anyone have an idea what the shipping costs are on something like that?
>
>--
>
>Regards,
>John Dolan
>
>jdolan
>
>
>
 
> Folks closer to Castel TX than Ohio may find a savings on the shipping...

I should have said Sandusky, Michigan
- --

Regards,
John Dolan

jdolan
 
larry i am thinking about having a bearing puller made here in Oneida NY. I
have a close friend that has a large commericial machine shop and have
showed him one of the good pullers. He is willing to make them out of
stainless for about $100 each. We would have to purchase the add on parts
for about another $80. In any case we can manufacture a really good one for
less than $200. would you be interested? Anyone else?

>Tom, thanks for the reply. I have requested membership info from Flatlanders
>and Gateway Classics. Have already received a email from the Flatlanders pres.
>and he has informed me that there is a rally coming up in a few weeks only
>about 1 hour away from here....(Springfield, MO). I really would like to get
>my own bearing puller, if this inspection/replacement cannot be accomplished
>around here, in a city of 180,000. I also want to know the insides of this
>thing. Can't wait to get my manuals from Cinnabar!!! Thanks again. Larry
>Nelson Palm Beach 75
>
>
 
My GMC International parts interchange index says for suitable GMC steering
wheel see issue #51 page 4. I don't have that issue. Anyone else have

>I don't have the slightest idea as to what steering wheel would work. I
>would think maybe an Olds or Caddy in the early to mid 70's would be a place
>to start but that is just a guess.
>
>Russ Bethel
>rbethel
>
>
>
>
 
>...GMC International parts interchange index says for suitable GMC
>steering
>wheel see issue #51 page 4.

>>I don't have the slightest idea as to what steering wheel would work.
>>I would think maybe an Olds or Caddy in the early to mid 70's would be
>>a place to start but that is just a guess.

1982-1990 Old (Sierra Cutlass Omega) MOre Later..

- --

Regards,
John Dolan

jdolan
 
>...GMC International parts interchange index says for suitable GMC
>steering wheel see issue #51 page 4.

>>I don't have the slightest idea as to what steering wheel would work.
>>I would think maybe an Olds or Caddy in the early to mid 70's would be
>>a place to start but that is just a guess.

1982-1990 Old (Sierra Cutlass Omega) More Later..
Also Buick, Cadillac, and Pontiac from the above years will fit.

Sounds like the one everyone wants is the 84 and 85 sports model which is
hard to find...

- --

Regards,
John Dolan

jdolan
 
>
> larry i am thinking about having a bearing puller made here in Oneida
> NY. I have a close friend that has a large commericial machine shop
> and have showed him one of the good pullers. He is willing to make
> them out of stainless for about $100 each. We would have to purchase
> the add on parts for about another $80. In any case we can
> manufacture a really good one for less than $200. would you be
> interested? Anyone else?

Thomas,

Sounds good to me, but I don't think I would use stainless. It's
difficult to machine, would run up the cost and is not usually a good
choice for tooling. How soon would these be ready. I'm set to run my
hubs and knuckles up to Southland(~140 mi. round trip) to get the
bearings pulled off. Two trips to Southland would about pay for the
puller.

Thanks,
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
 
As soon as enough interest is shown I could start having them made. They
would use the standard Owatona 97 puller to go with them for about $80 plus
the puller parts that I would have made should be total cost under $200. I
will persue it if enough intersest. I have seen the Winterfeldt puller and
this would be very similar.

>>
>> larry i am thinking about having a bearing puller made here in Oneida
>> NY. I have a close friend that has a large commericial machine shop
>> and have showed him one of the good pullers. He is willing to make
>> them out of stainless for about $100 each. We would have to purchase
>> the add on parts for about another $80. In any case we can
>> manufacture a really good one for less than $200. would you be
>> interested? Anyone else?
>
>Thomas,
>
>Sounds good to me, but I don't think I would use stainless. It's
>difficult to machine, would run up the cost and is not usually a good
>choice for tooling. How soon would these be ready. I'm set to run my
>hubs and knuckles up to Southland(~140 mi. round trip) to get the
>bearings pulled off. Two trips to Southland would about pay for the
>puller.
>
>Thanks,
>Patrick
>--
>Patrick Flowers
>Mailto:patri63
>
>The GMC Motorhome Page
>http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
>
>
>
 
Hey Troops.............Maybe we could do this without creating a logistical
nightmare. Suppose, just suppose that we all chipped in a few bucks (and it
would be only a few.) and bought a good quality bearing puller from
Cinnabar, Golby or whomever. UPS has a pickup service, so each of us would
pay to have the puller sent to him from the last person who used it. If you
didn't do the work yourself, you could let your mechanic use it along with a
good set of instructions which we could make up, or maybe Wes Caughlin would
let us use his from the GMC Motorhome News. As a last resort we might even
read the factory manuals that every one of us should have. I don't remember
what the unit costs, but just for fun, let's say $300. Thirty of us at ten
bucks a pop ain't bad. If you break it, you fix it.
As to who would own or control it or log it in or out, we could fight over,
but as I said, logistics would be the big thing. Dumb idea?..............Jim
Davis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Flowers
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 5:49 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: new guy's questions

>>
>> larry i am thinking about having a bearing puller made here in Oneida
>> NY. I have a close friend that has a large commericial machine shop
>> and have showed him one of the good pullers. He is willing to make
>> them out of stainless for about $100 each. We would have to purchase
>> the add on parts for about another $80. In any case we can
>> manufacture a really good one for less than $200. would you be
>> interested? Anyone else?
>
>Thomas,
>
>Sounds good to me, but I don't think I would use stainless. It's
>difficult to machine, would run up the cost and is not usually a good
>choice for tooling. How soon would these be ready. I'm set to run my
>hubs and knuckles up to Southland(~140 mi. round trip) to get the
>bearings pulled off. Two trips to Southland would about pay for the
>puller.
>
>Thanks,
>Patrick
>--
>Patrick Flowers
>Mailto:patri63
>
>The GMC Motorhome Page
>http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
>
>
 
Jim good idea and many of the clubs have already done that. The GMC
Heritage Cruisers have a bearing puller, engine lift etc that they loan out
to club members on the basis that you described. Its a fine idea and works
well. I would like a puller of my own, so I could do it on my schedule and
not someone elses. I in fact have a puller now that I borrowed from another
club member. Seems that just when I want to do something the tools are not
available. In addition I want one to carry in the coach for that remote
possibility that it breaks down and I have to have someone else repair a
bearing. What do you think the possibility of the mechanic having the right
tools is???? Just a thought.

>Hey Troops.............Maybe we could do this without creating a logistical
>nightmare. Suppose, just suppose that we all chipped in a few bucks (and it
>would be only a few.) and bought a good quality bearing puller from
>Cinnabar, Golby or whomever. UPS has a pickup service, so each of us would
>pay to have the puller sent to him from the last person who used it. If you
>didn't do the work yourself, you could let your mechanic use it along with a
>good set of instructions which we could make up, or maybe Wes Caughlin would
>let us use his from the GMC Motorhome News. As a last resort we might even
>read the factory manuals that every one of us should have. I don't remember
>what the unit costs, but just for fun, let's say $300. Thirty of us at ten
>bucks a pop ain't bad. If you break it, you fix it.
>As to who would own or control it or log it in or out, we could fight over,
>but as I said, logistics would be the big thing. Dumb idea?..............Jim
>Davis
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Patrick Flowers
>To: gmcmotorhome
>Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 5:49 AM
>Subject: Re: GMC: new guy's questions
>
>

>>>
>>> larry i am thinking about having a bearing puller made here in Oneida
>>> NY. I have a close friend that has a large commericial machine shop
>>> and have showed him one of the good pullers. He is willing to make
>>> them out of stainless for about $100 each. We would have to purchase
>>> the add on parts for about another $80. In any case we can
>>> manufacture a really good one for less than $200. would you be
>>> interested? Anyone else?
>>
>>Thomas,
>>
>>Sounds good to me, but I don't think I would use stainless. It's
>>difficult to machine, would run up the cost and is not usually a good
>>choice for tooling. How soon would these be ready. I'm set to run my
>>hubs and knuckles up to Southland(~140 mi. round trip) to get the
>>bearings pulled off. Two trips to Southland would about pay for the
>>puller.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Patrick
>>--
>>Patrick Flowers
>>Mailto:patri63
>>
>>The GMC Motorhome Page
>>http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
 
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