New GMC Owner

A

al chernoff

New member
Oct 11, 1999
737
0
0
I don't konw the answer to the cannister problem... But for the other...

If you can locate the isolator, it sits on the left front side of the coach
opening. It has three wires... one from the alternator, and one that goes to
the front battery and the other goes to the back (house) battery. The isolator
is there to isolate the two batteries. It sends energy to both when charging,
but stops one from impacting the other when off. If the isolator is bad it would
not send anything to the back battery. There are lots of ways to check that, by
using a meter to see if the isolator is working...if not, consider replacing it
with a combinror... it does not have the voltage drop across the diodes that
exist on the old isolator.
al

> Hello all:
>
> As a new owner of a 1977 Eleganza II (my first RV), I find this GMC mailing
> list very helpful and informative. For the most part, I've found the systems
> of this vehicle to fairly straight forward and am on my way (hopefully) to
> getting the 23 year-old road worthy again. Our maiden voyage will be a two
> week round trip from Alabama to Arizona - leaving this Thursday (again
> hopefully).
>
> The reasons for this inquiry are two specific problems I've encountered which
> don't seem to have any obvious (to me) solutions. Perhaps someone out there
> has experienced the same and can save me the learning curve in diagnostics?
>
> 1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the fuel
> vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
> gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through the
> vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
> triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
> is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.
>
> 2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged by the
> engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears things
> in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It charges
> fine via converter with either generator or external power. Talking with a
> friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied together when the
> engine is running but with some sort of diode protection to isolate the two
> batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not sure
> where to start (looking).
>
> Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance to any and all.
>
> Curtis E. Comer
> curtcomer
> '77 Eleganza II
> Hazel Green, AL
 
Curtis open the passenger side access door to the engine compartment and you
will see the diode isolator that connects the engine battery to the house
battery. Either it is bad or you have a broken wire between there and the
house battery

>Hello all:
>
>As a new owner of a 1977 Eleganza II (my first RV), I find this GMC mailing
>list very helpful and informative. For the most part, I've found the systems
>of this vehicle to fairly straight forward and am on my way (hopefully) to
>getting the 23 year-old road worthy again. Our maiden voyage will be a two
>week round trip from Alabama to Arizona - leaving this Thursday (again
>hopefully).
>
>The reasons for this inquiry are two specific problems I've encountered which
>don't seem to have any obvious (to me) solutions. Perhaps someone out there
>has experienced the same and can save me the learning curve in diagnostics?
>
>1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the fuel
>vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
>gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through the
>vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
>triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
>is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.
>
>2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged by the
>engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears things
>in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It charges
>fine via converter with either generator or external power. Talking with a
>friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied together when the
>engine is running but with some sort of diode protection to isolate the two
>batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not sure
>where to start (looking).
>
>Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon. Any
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks in advance to any and all.
>
>Curtis E. Comer
>curtcomer
>'77 Eleganza II
>Hazel Green, AL
>
>
 
>......snip............

>1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the fuel
>vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
>gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through the
>vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
>triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
>is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.

In your left rear wheel well is a ball check valve. It is design to stop
the flow of gasoline liquid to the canister. If it is junked up and stuck
gas will flow to the charcoal canister and then on the ground. The real
problem is that they are no longer available new. Jim Bounds suggested
that they could be taken apart and cleaned carefully. You might check with
the many GMC suppliers and see if by chance that one is available. (J.R.
Wright)

>2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged by the
>engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears things
>in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It charges
>fine via converter with either generator or external power. Talking with a
>friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied together when the
>engine is running but with some sort of diode protection to isolate the two
>batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not sure
>where to start (looking).

What our GMC's have:
BATTERY ISOLATOR - a diode based device that permits both battery banks to
be charged from the alternator (and allows the alternator to provide 12V to
the coach wiring) but blocks current flow from one battery to another. This
stops the two banks from discharging themselves in a short period of time.
The discharge happens because (generally) one battery bank is different
electrically from the other. This leads to the "stropnger" of the banks
experiencing current flow out as the batteries try to reach equilibrium
electrically. As one banks dicharges into the other it will overshoot a
little bit so that it becomes the weaker of the banks. Then the second bank
tries to charge the first - and overshoots a little bit. The "seesaw"
current flow eventually discharges both battery banks.

What our GMC's SHOULD have:
BATTERY COMBINER
A combiner is an electrical apparatus used to permit two battery (banks) to
be charged "intelligently." The combiner relies on the fact that the
voltage across a charging battery will rise as the battery charge
increases. When the charging voltage is great enough, the combiner
electrically connects both batteries in parallel to permit them both to
become charged. When the batteries are not being charged the combiner
electrically isolates the two banks. Using a combiner in place of the
isolator that is original equipment in the GMC permits the electrical
isolation (keeps the engine battery from becoming discharged) when you use
the coach 12V electrical AND allows both batterioes to be charged when
charging voltage is present. This can simplify the electrical system if you
want to permit charging of the engine battery from the coach charger.
(Henry Davis)

>Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon. Any
>suggestions?

Hope these clippings help.

bdub
76 Palm Beach
 
There is information on my web page on testing and replacing this unit.

gene

>Curtis open the passenger side access door to the engine compartment and you
>will see the diode isolator that connects the engine battery to the house
>battery. Either it is bad or you have a broken wire between there and the
>house battery
>

>>Hello all:
>>
>>As a new owner of a 1977 Eleganza II (my first RV), I find this GMC mailing
>>list very helpful and informative. For the most part, I've found the
systems
>>of this vehicle to fairly straight forward and am on my way (hopefully) to
>>getting the 23 year-old road worthy again. Our maiden voyage will be a two
>>week round trip from Alabama to Arizona - leaving this Thursday (again
>>hopefully).
>>
>>The reasons for this inquiry are two specific problems I've encountered
which
>>don't seem to have any obvious (to me) solutions. Perhaps someone out
there
>>has experienced the same and can save me the learning curve in diagnostics?
>>
>>1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the
fuel
>>vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
>>gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through
the
>>vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
>>triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
>>is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.
>>
>>2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged by
the
>>engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears
things
>>in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It
charges
>>fine via converter with either generator or external power. Talking with a
>>friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied together when the
>>engine is running but with some sort of diode protection to isolate the two
>>batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not
sure
>>where to start (looking).
>>
>>Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon. Any
>>suggestions?
>>
>>Thanks in advance to any and all.
>>
>>Curtis E. Comer
>>curtcomer
>>'77 Eleganza II
>>Hazel Green, AL
>>
>>
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
I am running a true-charge 40, love it. When I want to
charge the vehicle battery along with the RV batteries
I just flip on the battery boost switch for a day,
about once a week, when the coach is in storage. I
have a continious duty rated solenoid on this circut,
this seemed to be the simplest solution for me. Is
there any reason I should not do this?

>This can simplify the electrical system if you
>want to permit charging of the engine battery from
>the coach charger.
>(Henry Davis)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
 
The "old timers" put a clip lead across the isolator. this connected the
two batteries for a temporary charge. The boost relay is not a full time
relay but, I have not seen any failures documented.

The risk is you forget the jumper, and both batteries get discharged or one
bad battery takes both down.

gene

>I am running a true-charge 40, love it. When I want to
>charge the vehicle battery along with the RV batteries
>I just flip on the battery boost switch for a day,
>about once a week, when the coach is in storage. I
>have a continious duty rated solenoid on this circut,
>this seemed to be the simplest solution for me. Is
>there any reason I should not do this?
>
>>This can simplify the electrical system if you
>>want to permit charging of the engine battery from
>>the coach charger.
>>(Henry Davis)
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
>>......snip............
>
>>1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the fuel
>>vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
>>gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through the
>>vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
>>triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
>>is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.
>
>In your left rear wheel well is a ball check valve. It is design to stop
>the flow of gasoline liquid to the canister. If it is junked up and stuck
>gas will flow to the charcoal canister and then on the ground. The real
>problem is that they are no longer available new. Jim Bounds suggested
>that they could be taken apart and cleaned carefully. You might check
>with the many GMC suppliers and see if by chance that one is available.
>(J.R. Wright)
Cinnabar has made a new version of the check valve available. It is metal
(stainless I think) and easily replaces the old unit. Cost I think is in
the $80-90 range.

Henry

 
>Hello all:

Welcome Curt, we are all happy you came out of the closet!! Be sure to
join the Black List if you are going on an advanture with your new (old
GMC)

>1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of
>the fuel
>vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a

>gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed
>through the
>vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
>triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this
>one? It is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.

Curt, there is a ball in the cannister that is supposed to float with any
liquid gas in the cannister and block off any spill. This cannister is in
the wheel well under the passenger's side front wheel. Sometimes fuel
will leak behind the rear bogies, driver side if the vent is blocked.

>
>2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged
>by the
>engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears
>things
>in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It
>charges
>fine via converter with either generator or external power. Talking
>with a
>friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied together when
>the
>engine is running but with some sort of diode protection to isolate
>the two
>batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to me, but I'm
>not sure
>where to start (looking).

Sounds like a diode is installed backwards! But I am not compentent to
tell you how to make a fix. There are lots of capable owners on the Net,
as you already discovered.

I will send you a note about the Registry. Keep an eye out for it.

>
>Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon.
> Any >
suggestions?

Try Alex Sirum for used manuals and Cinnabar for new. Someone will have
the contact info.

>Curtis E. Comer
>curtcomer
>'77 Eleganza II
>Hazel Green, AL

David Lee Greenberg
GMC Motorhome Registry
Dedicated to the preservation of the Classic GMC
www.gmcss.com/registry.htm
 
No

> I am running a true-charge 40, love it. When I want to
> charge the vehicle battery along with the RV batteries
> I just flip on the battery boost switch for a day,
> about once a week, when the coach is in storage. I
> have a continious duty rated solenoid on this circut,
> this seemed to be the simplest solution for me. Is
> there any reason I should not do this?
>
> >This can simplify the electrical system if you
> >want to permit charging of the engine battery from
> >the coach charger.
> >(Henry Davis)
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
 
Cinnabar part cost is $140 1-800-720-2227.

>
> The Ball check valve is available again from Cinnabar. I don't have the number of Cinnabar with me today but another member can post it. The check valve is a new metal unit and don't be suprised about the price but it is almost a direct replacement.
>
> J.R. Wright
>

> > >......snip............
> >
> > >1) When filling the fuel tanks, fuel will run out of the bottom of the
> > fuel >vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like
> > a >gallon. It seems like an overfill situation where fuel is pushed through
> > the >vent line to the vapor canister before it backs up in the filler neck
> > >triggering the pump nozzle automatic cutoff. Any thoughts on this one? It
> > >is quite a safety concern as you can imagine.
> >
> > In your left rear wheel well is a ball check valve. It is design to stop
> > the flow of gasoline liquid to the canister. If it is junked up and stuck
> > gas will flow to the charcoal canister and then on the ground. The real
> > problem is that they are no longer available new. Jim Bounds suggested
> > that they could be taken apart and cleaned carefully. You might check with
> > the many GMC suppliers and see if by chance that one is available. (J.R.
> > Wright)
> >
> >
> >
> > >2) On a less critical note, the "house" battery is not being charged by
> > the >engine when running/driving. Perhaps a wiring problem, as it appears
> > things >in the electrical area have been "monkeyed" with over the years. It
> > charges >fine via converter with either generator or external power.
> > Talking with a >friend he suggested that the two batteries should tied
> > together when the >engine is running but with some sort of diode protection
> > to isolate the two >batteries when the engine is off. Sounds reasonable to
> > me, but I'm not sure >where to start (looking).
> >
> > What our GMC's have:
> > BATTERY ISOLATOR - a diode based device that permits both battery banks to
> > be charged from the alternator (and allows the alternator to provide 12V to
> > the coach wiring) but blocks current flow from one battery to another. This
> > stops the two banks from discharging themselves in a short period of time.
> > The discharge happens because (generally) one battery bank is different
> > electrically from the other. This leads to the "stropnger" of the banks
> > experiencing current flow out as the batteries try to reach equilibrium
> > electrically. As one banks dicharges into the other it will overshoot a
> > little bit so that it becomes the weaker of the banks. Then the second bank
> > tries to charge the first - and overshoots a little bit. The "seesaw"
> > current flow eventually discharges both battery banks.
> >
> > What our GMC's SHOULD have:
> > BATTERY COMBINER
> > A combiner is an electrical apparatus used to permit two battery (banks) to
> > be charged "intelligently." The combiner relies on the fact that the
> > voltage across a charging battery will rise as the battery charge
> > increases. When the charging voltage is great enough, the combiner
> > electrically connects both batteries in parallel to permit them both to
> > become charged. When the batteries are not being charged the combiner
> > electrically isolates the two banks. Using a combiner in place of the
> > isolator that is original equipment in the GMC permits the electrical
> > isolation (keeps the engine battery from becoming discharged) when you use
> > the coach 12V electrical AND allows both batterioes to be charged when
> > charging voltage is present. This can simplify the electrical system if you
> > want to permit charging of the engine battery from the coach charger.
> > (Henry Davis)
> >
> >
> > >Obviously, I've not purchased repair manuals yet, but will do so soon. Any
> > >suggestions?
> >
> >
> > Hope these clippings help.
> >
> > bdub
> > 76 Palm Beach
 
Ty,
The canister contains charcoal which adsorbs and stores fuel vapors.
When fuel is drawn from the tank during engine operation a fuel cap tank
relief valve opens allowing air to be drawn into the tank. When the
engine is running, air is drawn in through the bottom of the canister.
This air pick up vapors which are being held in the charcoal and carries
them through the carburetor into the engine where they are burned. The
vapor line coming from the fuel tanks goes thru the liquid/vapor
separator. Its purpose is to stop fuel from going down the vent to the
canister. As most of us try to top off our tanks to the top, if this
separator is gummed up or stuck the fuel in fuel filler line to the
tanks has a higher head than the separator and the fuel will end up in
the canister and on the ground until the level is equal to the level of
the separator. which is located in the top of the left rear wheel well.
If you have the Factory Manual X-7525B, Section 8, page 8-2, Fig 1 shows
the vent system.

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLakers
77 Eleganza II
Michigan

>
> In a message dated 1/31/00 7:57:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,

>
> fuel
> vapor canister before the pump nozzle cuts off. Lots of fuel -- like a
> gallon. >>
>
> Hi Curt,
> Sorry it's taken so long to respond to your inquiry but I've been busy with
> mine too. I realize there have been several responses to Curt's original
> question and I'm not trying to start an argument but I don't totally agree
> with what I've read here. I recently removed both tanks in order to refurbish
> them and replaced all hoses. The only way I see that fuel can get into the
> fuel vapor canister the way Curt has described is a totally overfull tank. As
> the line from the bottom of the carb goes to the vapor canister and then to
> the separator (check valve) in the left rear wheel well and then the line
> feeds into the TOP of the fuel tank. This system is supposed to allow vapor
> to return to the tank as liquid and I'm really at a loss here as to how when
> he fills the tank gas pours from the canister. I would think a line is
> crossed which I doubt or the leak is coming from the vent line near the
> filler neck and running is way over there or lastly the vent line itself is
> clogged, kinked and the tank is trying to vent back through the canister.
> Thanks for letting me reply,
> Curt please let us know what the fix is.
> Ty Kuykendall 73 GMC
 
Ty,
Of course it's an overfull tank, because everyone overfills their
fuel tank. With the convoluted vening setup on the GMC, it
is difficult to fill it adequately and not overfill it. But you are
confusing the purpose of the vapor separator. It is a vent out
of the tank, not into the tank.
The primary purpose of the vent line that passes thru the
separator is to allow for the expansion of the fuel in the tank.
(Remember, the fuel came out of an underground tank at
approximately 55 degrees) The tank is black and less than
a foot above the hot asphalt. As the fuel expands it creates
vapor pressure which vents out the top of the tank, thru
the separator and into the charcoal cannister where the gasoline
vapors are absorbed by the charcoal and the air passes out thru
the filter element in the bottom of the cannister. (We've all been
maintaining the little filter element, haven't we?) Then when you
start the motor, the carburetor sucks air in thru the little filter,
which passes thru the charcoal, picking up the gasoline vapors
and sending them to the motor, where they burn and make more
horsepower and less pollution.
sorry if this seems a little long-winded, but I don't plan before I
start and I don't know how many people I am talking to.
I just hate it when someone answers a question to the satisfaction
af the questioner, but I am left wondering what was the rest of
the story.
Gary Kosier
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: New GMC Owner

(check valve) in the left rear wheel well and then the line
> feeds into the TOP of the fuel tank. This system is supposed to allow
vapor
> to return to the tank as liquid and I'm really at a loss here as to how
when
> he fills the tank gas pours from the canister. I would think a line is
> crossed which I doubt or the leak is coming from the vent line near the
> filler neck and running is way over there or lastly the vent line itself
is
> clogged, kinked and the tank is trying to vent back through the canister.
> Thanks for letting me reply,
> Curt please let us know what the fix is.
> Ty Kuykendall 73 GMC
 
You have an very interesting, informative site with a great amount of
info.
My printer keeps jamming and the pages must be fed in one at a time. So....is
there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can make this into a
reference book to keep handy.
Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
Thanks for sharing,
Jerry & Meri
menee
74 CL, Sandy, OR
 
The archives are big text files - one per month. With netscape, click on
the link for each month with the RIGHT mouse button(this assumes you haven't
reconfigured the mouse for left handed use) and choose "Save Link As" from
the menu that pops up. Save it anywhere on your local drive and you can use
any text editor or wordprocessor to read the files offline.

HTH,
Patrick

>

>
> at a time.
> So....is
> there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can
> make this into a
> reference book to keep handy.
> Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
> Thanks for sharing,
> Jerry & Meri >>
>
> You might be better off downloading the archives. Go to
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/gmcnet_archives/
>
> Netscape should allow you to download all the e-mail messages
> you have and
> then go through them off line. I am not using Netscape but
> someone can
> probably tell you how to do it
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
>
 
Well Patrick I tried to save it to a file and it locked up on me. Most
likely a problem with Netscape.
Thanks for the help though. I'll try again. The site I was trying to get is:

http://www/california.com/eagle/list.html

It, as well as the others, will be great for handy reference material.

> The archives are big text files - one per month. With netscape, click on
> the link for each month with the RIGHT mouse button(this assumes you haven't
> reconfigured the mouse for left handed use) and choose "Save Link As" from
> the menu that pops up. Save it anywhere on your local drive and you can use
> any text editor or wordprocessor to read the files offline.
>
> HTH,
> Patrick
>

> >

> >
> > > at a time.
> > So....is
> > there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can
> > make this into a
> > reference book to keep handy.
> > Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
> > Thanks for sharing,
> > Jerry & Meri >>
> >
> > You might be better off downloading the archives. Go to
> > http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/gmcnet_archives/
> >
> > Netscape should allow you to download all the e-mail messages
> > you have and
> > then go through them off line. I am not using Netscape but
> > someone can
> > probably tell you how to do it
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Santa Fe, NM
> >
 
Hi Jerry and Meri

In Netscape, from the menu bar, hit 'File', select 'Save As', and then
choose or create which directory to save it in, then rename it or use the
suggested file name, then hit 'Save'.

hth
bdub

> You have an very interesting, informative site with a great
> amount of
>info.
> My printer keeps jamming and the pages must be fed in one at a time.
> So....is
>there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can make this into a
>reference book to keep handy.
> Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
> Thanks for sharing,
>Jerry & Meri
>menee
>74 CL, Sandy, OR
 
I tried again. It seems it was me that was "locked" up. Thanks for the help.

>
> So....is
> there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can make this into a
> reference book to keep handy.
> Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
> Thanks for sharing,
> Jerry & Meri >>
>
> You might be better off downloading the archives. Go to
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/gmcnet_archives/
>
> Netscape should allow you to download all the e-mail messages you have and
> then go through them off line. I am not using Netscape but someone can
> probably tell you how to do it
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
 
Thanks Patrick,
It worked!
Quite a few good people are helpful enough to answer my post and offerer
help (as always).
Thank goodness this computer is smarter than me. Maybe there's hope I won't
get "locked up in the future.
Jerry & Meri, 74 CL, Sandy, OR.

> The archives are big text files - one per month. With netscape, click on
> the link for each month with the RIGHT mouse button(this assumes you haven't
> reconfigured the mouse for left handed use) and choose "Save Link As" from
> the menu that pops up. Save it anywhere on your local drive and you can use
> any text editor or wordprocessor to read the files offline.
>
> HTH,
> Patrick
>

> >

> >
> > > at a time.
> > So....is
> > there any way to download your site (w/netscape) so I can
> > make this into a
> > reference book to keep handy.
> > Since it will take a long time to print I prefer to be offline.
> > Thanks for sharing,
> > Jerry & Meri >>
> >
> > You might be better off downloading the archives. Go to
> > http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/gmcnet_archives/
> >
> > Netscape should allow you to download all the e-mail messages
> > you have and
> > then go through them off line. I am not using Netscape but
> > someone can
> > probably tell you how to do it
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Santa Fe, NM
> >
 
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