Need Help With Airbag Controls/Compressor

Jinxed it. Switches were working well, compressor was coming on in manual and auto. I decided to give it and extended test so I manually inflated bags
with my air hose high enough to put some 2x4's under the coach. I lowered it down and let out most of the air from the bags. The plan was to pump up
and lower each bag manually one at a time using the compressor in the coach. I started with the left side. I flipped the switch, heard the compressor
fire up. I then went outside by the rear and had my 14 yr old son inside to operate the switches when it was time to stop/deflate. After 20-30 seconds
at the rear of the coach I hadn't seen any movement at all in the bag so I asked my son if he could still hear the compressor running. He listened and
said no. I went back inside and sure enough the fuse had blown. I replaced it again but now it just blows fuses as soon as I operate the switches.

Any ideas?
 
Bob,
What year, and is it a electro level 1 or 2

> Jinxed it. Switches were working well, compressor was coming on in manual
> and auto. I decided to give it and extended test so I manually inflated bags
> with my air hose high enough to put some 2x4's under the coach. I lowered
> it down and let out most of the air from the bags. The plan was to pump up
> and lower each bag manually one at a time using the compressor in the
> coach. I started with the left side. I flipped the switch, heard the
> compressor
> fire up. I then went outside by the rear and had my 14 yr old son inside
> to operate the switches when it was time to stop/deflate. After 20-30
> seconds
> at the rear of the coach I hadn't seen any movement at all in the bag so I
> asked my son if he could still hear the compressor running. He listened and
> said no. I went back inside and sure enough the fuse had blown. I replaced
> it again but now it just blows fuses as soon as I operate the switches.
>
> Any ideas?
>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Also Jim, can you PM me? I am actually getting this road worthy to drive it down to you guys for some more extensive work. I was hoping to chat about
that if possible. Time, options, prices, etc...

Thanks,
--Bryan
--
1977 Palm Beach
 
Sir, that fuse is suppose to be a 30 amp resetting circuit breaker.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7823110

> Jinxed it. Switches were working well, compressor was coming on in manual and auto. I decided to give it and extended test so I manually inflated
> bags with my air hose high enough to put some 2x4's under the coach. I lowered it down and let out most of the air from the bags. The plan was to
> pump up and lower each bag manually one at a time using the compressor in the coach. I started with the left side. I flipped the switch, heard the
> compressor fire up. I then went outside by the rear and had my 14 yr old son inside to operate the switches when it was time to stop/deflate. After
> 20-30 seconds at the rear of the coach I hadn't seen any movement at all in the bag so I asked my son if he could still hear the compressor running.
> He listened and said no. I went back inside and sure enough the fuse had blown. I replaced it again but now it just blows fuses as soon as I operate
> the switches.
>
> Any ideas?

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
> Sir, that fuse is suppose to be a 30 amp resetting circuit breaker.
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7823110

Some additional comments here.

As you increase the air pressure in the tank, the compressor has to work harder and draws more current. Also if pressure is up in the tank when the
compressor starts, or the voltage is low when the compressor starts, it takes a little more current to get it started. Using the correct CB, or a
time delay (slow Blow) fuse, helps cover up these short term over current conditions.

So first do what Chuck suggests and get the correct CB. Second I would check and clean all of the connections in the motor cabinet both on the + 12
volts side and the ground side. Also check . One of the things I like to do as a quick check is: Get the compressor it running again. Then feel
all of the electrical connections, including the fuse / CB, for heat or warmth while the compressor is running. If a connection is warm (or hot),
then you have a problem and voltage loss there. It will only get warm when the compressor is running. You could also check connections with a
voltmeter but it will take you a little longer.

Finally, When the compressor is running, running the engine at the same time will raise voltage at the compressor motor and reduce it's current draw.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Yes, there are circuit breakers that are just like the later model cars' ATC fuses but the blades are rolled into 2 small cylinders that snap into the
fuseholders for the glass fuses. Those fuseholder contacts in that pic need to be cleaned/polished for reliable operation.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
Terry, Thanks for helping him. I could not get that URL to display (Internet gremlins I guess) so I did not respond to him.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I finally got that picture to display.

Wow is that holder messed up.

You really need to clean that up. A slow turning dremel tool with a wire brush end might work. It really need to be clean. Also squeeze the
contacts a little bit to apply more tension on the CB. That may be your compressor problem if it is heating up during use.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Chuck Boyd sent you a link to the breaker you need that includes a picture
of it.

Are you guys saying that that CB fits in the same slot? If so I believe you
but I might need a picture so I understand.
 
1 Caig Deoxit D5 is what to use to clean fuse holder, switches and connectors.
2 Your switches may look "cleaned" and are still bad.
I'm pretty good at electrical/ electronic bench work and that one got me. There was a factory thin foam dust shield in the switches under the rockers
that has broken down to a non conductive goo balls material. These fragments are pin point small but can keep the points on switch from making
connection. Confirm all switch functions with a meter before reinstalling. Meter center to opposite from switch throw on each side then flip switch
and repeat as you would with any DPDT or DPDT center off switch.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
> Chuck Boyd sent you a link to the breaker you need that includes a picture
> of it.

Thanks. I see the picture I just can't picture how to install that thing in the slot I see in the fuse box. I was hoping for a picture of one of them
installed in the fuse box but maybe it will make more sense once I see it in person.

> 1 Caig Deoxit D5 is what to use to clean fuse holder, switches and connectors.
> 2 Your switches may look "cleaned" and are still bad.
> I'm pretty good at electrical/ electronic bench work and that one got me. There was a factory thin foam dust shield in the switches under the
> rockers that has broken down to a non conductive goo balls material. These fragments are pin point small but can keep the points on switch from
> making connection. Confirm all switch functions with a meter before reinstalling. Meter center to opposite from switch throw on each side then flip
> switch and repeat as you would with any DPDT or DPDT center off switch.

Thanks.

--
1977 Palm Beach
 
Ok. Next update...I cleaned the terminals and installed the correct 30 amp circuit breaker. Flipped the switches and everything seemed to work
flawlessly. The compressor ran nonstop for 1-2 minutes and then shut off again. After that I could shut off engine, remove the CB from fuse box for 1
minute, reinstall, and flip the switches. The compressor would run for a few seconds and then the circuit breaker would trip. I waited about and hour
and retried. The compressor ran for 30 seconds and then it tripped again. I felt all the connections I could find and everything felt cool. The only
thing that was warm was the very top of the compressor.

thoughts?
--
1977 Palm Beach
 
The compressor motor is drawing more amps than your circuit breaker or fuse
is rated for. You either have high resistance in connectors between the
fuse and the motor of the compressor, corrosion in the conductors
themselves, or the mechanical components in the compressor are placing a
big load on the motor. ( ex. Broken rings, scored cylinder, etc.) Either
way, you need to investigate the amp draw, and resistance, and how
difficult it is to turn the compressor.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

Ok. Next update...I cleaned the terminals and installed the correct 30 amp
circuit breaker. Flipped the switches and everything seemed to work
flawlessly. The compressor ran nonstop for 1-2 minutes and then shut off
again. After that I could shut off engine, remove the CB from fuse box for 1
minute, reinstall, and flip the switches. The compressor would run for a
few seconds and then the circuit breaker would trip. I waited about and hour
and retried. The compressor ran for 30 seconds and then it tripped again. I
felt all the connections I could find and everything felt cool. The only
thing that was warm was the very top of the compressor.

thoughts?
--
1977 Palm Beach

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Three possibilities that I see (off-hand) are compressor output line has blockage causing excessive current draw, wrong value (too low) of breaker/defective breaker, or simply aged, defective compressor!

Circuit breakers are mostly HEAT activated devices. Does IT get hot?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Bryan Hartman
Sent: Tuesday, March 7, 2017 15:13
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Need Help With Airbag Controls/Compressor

Ok. Next update...I cleaned the terminals and installed the correct 30 amp circuit breaker. Flipped the switches and everything seemed to work
flawlessly. The compressor ran nonstop for 1-2 minutes and then shut off again. After that I could shut off engine, remove the CB from fuse box for 1
minute, reinstall, and flip the switches. The compressor would run for a few seconds and then the circuit breaker would trip. I waited about and hour
and retried. The compressor ran for 30 seconds and then it tripped again. I felt all the connections I could find and everything felt cool. The only
thing that was warm was the very top of the compressor.

thoughts?
--
1977 Palm Beach

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I think your compressor wants looking at. It's heating up and something is binding... and at 40 years old, like to be anything in it. You might want
to disassemble it, clean it up and lube places where there's old hardened lube, and try it again. If you want to check connections, power it directly
from a battery. If you have an ammeter, hook it in line ans see what the current draw actually is.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Thanks everyone. The brand new 30 amp CB does not feel like it is getting hot. I will start to work backwards from the compressor.

Question: If I disconnect the air line from the compressor should I make sure the air bags not inflated? Or is there some sort of "one-way" valve in
the system that would prevent it from losing pressure?

I don't know how to check from amperage draw or resistance but that is what youtube if for!
--
1977 Palm Beach
 
Always check your ground and use a star type washer to get good contact.

> Thanks everyone. The brand new 30 amp CB does not feel like it is getting
> hot. I will start to work backwards from the compressor.
>
> Question: If I disconnect the air line from the compressor should I make
> sure the air bags not inflated? Or is there some sort of "one-way" valve in
> the system that would prevent it from losing pressure?
>
> I don't know how to check from amperage draw or resistance but that is
> what youtube if for!
> --
> 1977 Palm Beach
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Bryan,
Sorry to hear your having problems with the air system.
The compressure is relitavely new(within in 5 years). I don't know if it's the compressor. Can you get a psi reading at the tank when the pump kicks
off?
Maybe a solinoid is not opening.
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 455 Royale Center Kitchen, Quad bags.
Houston, Texas
 
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