Need Help in Paducah Ky

Tom Lins

Tom Lins

New member
Dec 30, 2005
939
0
1
Elkton, FL
The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now we have another issue

The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard can inline filter) We got
about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation to the point that we could
only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.

That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the same symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.

My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging the filters?
I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.

I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.

The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed. The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
filter
was clogged after 17 years.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
 
Sir, what we did was remove gas fill cap and blow shop air back into tank to clear pickups and surrounding area each time we had to change filters.
It got better each time. I still do it bout every 6 months when I change filters now. We weren't having any issues on the way to Florida but stopped
at a small gas station and got a tank of sand and some very good oranges.

> The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now we have another issue
>
> The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard can inline filter) We got
> about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation to the point that we could
> only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.
>
> That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the same symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
> Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.
>
> My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging the filters?
> I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.
>
> I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
> We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.
>
> The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
> and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed. The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
> when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
> filter
> was clogged after 17 years.

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
> The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now we have another issue
>
> The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard can inline filter) We got
> about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation to the point that we could
> only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.
>
> That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the same symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
> Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.
>
> My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging the filters?
> I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.
>
> I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
> We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.
>
> The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
> and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed. The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
> when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
> filter
> was clogged after 17 years.

While trying tpo go to sleep last night I was trying to come up with some way to get home to FL
without haveing to drop the fuel tanks or crawling under the coach every 50 miles to change filters.
Not to mention the socks on the pickup tubes.

One of the PO's removed the mechanical fuel pump, probably when the electric fuel pump was installed.
The electric fuel pump and the filter are mounted inside the frame rail along with the filter.

What I thought was to put a 10~12 gal marine portable fuel tank on the floor in front of the passenger seat
and take a fuel line from that through the floor. Re install a mechanical fuel pump and plumb that to the
carb. I have a switch on the dash to turn off the electric pump so that is not a problem. Also plug that line just incase.

The wife has to drive our Jeep anyway since this coach has 3.07 final and we do not want the extra strain
on the coach until we get it FL and have it assesed at the COOP or at Sirum's shop.

At least that way I can drive 100 miles or so between gas stations and not have to crawl under the coach.

Any critique or suggestions are welcome. If this is a stupid idea tell me, I have had plenty of them over the years.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
 
Tom
For several years I towed a Keep CJ7 across the country with my 3:07 final drive. I then determined that my wife’s Jeep Grand Cherokee weighed about 400 pounds less so I started towing that. We never had a problem with the 3:07.

I later put in a 3:55 and bought a geo Tracker.

Emery Stora

>

>> The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now we have another issue
>>
>> The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard can inline filter) We got
>> about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation to the point that we could
>> only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.
>>
>> That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the same symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
>> Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.
>>
>> My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging the filters?
>> I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.
>>
>> I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
>> We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.
>>
>> The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
>> and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed. The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
>> when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
>> filter
>> was clogged after 17 years.
>
> While trying tpo go to sleep last night I was trying to come up with some way to get home to FL
> without haveing to drop the fuel tanks or crawling under the coach every 50 miles to change filters.
> Not to mention the socks on the pickup tubes.
>
> One of the PO's removed the mechanical fuel pump, probably when the electric fuel pump was installed.
> The electric fuel pump and the filter are mounted inside the frame rail along with the filter.
>
> What I thought was to put a 10~12 gal marine portable fuel tank on the floor in front of the passenger seat
> and take a fuel line from that through the floor. Re install a mechanical fuel pump and plumb that to the
> carb. I have a switch on the dash to turn off the electric pump so that is not a problem. Also plug that line just incase.
>
> The wife has to drive our Jeep anyway since this coach has 3.07 final and we do not want the extra strain
> on the coach until we get it FL and have it assesed at the COOP or at Sirum's shop.
>
> At least that way I can drive 100 miles or so between gas stations and not have to crawl under the coach.
>
> Any critique or suggestions are welcome. If this is a stupid idea tell me, I have had plenty of them over the years.
>
>
> --
> Tom Lins
> Elkton, FL
> 77 GM Rear Twin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Tom,

I once moved a coach from California to Indiana. It had two filters inline. The tanks weer full of rust The first day I got 380miles before the
inline Wix filter clogged up. the next day I got about the same distance and the inline filter in the carb clogged up even though the Big Wix filter
was in line. Replaced it and about 500 miles later the big 0one clogged again. Every day I ended up- replacing the big WIX or the carb filter (on
alternate days). With every filter replacement I got more miles that I had before.

My daughter was with me and she got to the point that she could replace the big filter in around 5 minutes and the carb filter in less than 10
minutes. Do NOT run without both filters in line or you will be removing the carb to clean the rust or whatever out of it. The rust on this coach
was so bad that whenever you removed a fuel line to replace a filter red gasoline would come out of it.

So I suggest that you replace the carb filter and get a couple of spares for both the bigger main filter and the carb filters.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
If you want to run on a separate tank, simply remove the gas line input to the mechanical pump. put the two 5 gallon tanks on the front bumper and
hold in place with bungie or ratchet straps. Run a 3/8" gasoline hose from the input side of the pump to one of the gas cans and away you go. Stop
every 40 miles or so and switch tanks before you run one dry.

I had one once where the mechanical pump was removed. On that one we put four 5 gallon gas cans on the roof and ran a 3/8" ID hose down the side of
the coach, we disconnected the selector valve and connected that hose it to the output hose that was on the selector valve. No pump was necessary as
the gas would gravity feed the system. It was a real pain this way climbing out on the roof every 40 miles but we did manage to keep all of the
gasoline outside rather than inside with us. Having been through one coach fire I am terrified having gasoline inside with the passengers. We ran a
little over 800 miles that way and only ran one 5 gallon can completely dry.

One hint, If you do this, get a 1 foot or so piece of 3/8" OD steel pipe or steel / copper line and stick it on the end of the hose going into the gas
can. That will keep the pick up end on the bottom of the can. We also stuck a short 1x2 under the can to tilt it towards the pick up end of the can.
We got maximum range per can this way.

Good Luck.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Hi Tom,

It's always an exciting adventure to "pick up" a coach!
I had the same issues when I picked up one of my coaches.
Personally I don't think I would put a boat tank in the cab, although It
would
probably work fine.
Ken is right the carb filter can stop up even with a filter ahead of it,
figuring that out had me going for a while!
It sounds like that may be what's happening to you, If I had it to do over,
I believe I would remove the carb filter,
get some extra hose and filters and install a filter in a convenient place
possibly behind the front bumper or grill.
When the filter needs to be changed find a SAFE PLACE to change it! I also
had pretty good luck just blowing backwards
through a filter to "clean" it.

Good Luck
Marsh (rarely post) Wilkes
Perry FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Lins
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2017 10:19 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Need Help in Paducah Ky

> The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now
> we have another issue
>
> The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard
> can inline filter) We got
> about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation
> to the point that we could
> only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.
>
> That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the
> same symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
> Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.
>
> My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging
> the filters?
> I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.
>
> I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a
> good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
> We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.
>
> The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed
> open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
> and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed.
> The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
> when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric
> fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
> filter
> was clogged after 17 years.

While trying tpo go to sleep last night I was trying to come up with some
way to get home to FL
without haveing to drop the fuel tanks or crawling under the coach every 50
miles to change filters.
Not to mention the socks on the pickup tubes.

One of the PO's removed the mechanical fuel pump, probably when the electric
fuel pump was installed.
The electric fuel pump and the filter are mounted inside the frame rail
along with the filter.

What I thought was to put a 10~12 gal marine portable fuel tank on the floor
in front of the passenger seat
and take a fuel line from that through the floor. Re install a mechanical
fuel pump and plumb that to the
carb. I have a switch on the dash to turn off the electric pump so that is
not a problem. Also plug that line just incase.

The wife has to drive our Jeep anyway since this coach has 3.07 final and we
do not want the extra strain
on the coach until we get it FL and have it assesed at the COOP or at
Sirum's shop.

At least that way I can drive 100 miles or so between gas stations and not
have to crawl under the coach.

Any critique or suggestions are welcome. If this is a stupid idea tell me, I
have had plenty of them over the years.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin

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Tom,

At least replace the carb filter and loosen the gas cap before you try other more involved fixes. That carb filter is a very common item and should
be available at any auto parts store for around $3.00. Autozone shows it in stock here for $2.99. WalMart use to have them but they have cut back
on the filters that they sell.

Ken
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
> If you want to run on a separate tank, simply remove the gas line input to the mechanical pump. put the two 5 gallon tanks on the front bumper
> and hold in place with bungie or ratchet straps. Run a 3/8" gasoline hose from the input side of the pump to one of the gas cans and away you go.
> Stop every 40 miles or so and switch tanks before you run one dry.
>
> I had one once where the mechanical pump was removed. On that one we put four 5 gallon gas cans on the roof and ran a 3/8" ID hose down the side
> of the coach, we disconnected the selector valve and connected that hose it to the output hose that was on the selector valve. No pump was
> necessary as the gas would gravity feed the system. It was a real pain this way climbing out on the roof every 40 miles but we did manage to keep
> all of the gasoline outside rather than inside with us. Having been through one coach fire I am terrified having gasoline inside with the
> passengers. We ran a little over 800 miles that way and only ran one 5 gallon can completely dry.
>
> One hint, If you do this, get a 1 foot or so piece of 3/8" OD steel pipe or steel / copper line and stick it on the end of the hose going into the
> gas can. That will keep the pick up end on the bottom of the can. We also stuck a short 1x2 under the can to tilt it towards the pick up end of
> the can. We got maximum range per can this way.
>
> Good Luck.

Now that you rmind me about that fire It was a stuid idea on my part

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
 
When I did the rescue coach back in May on a unit that had been sitting 10+ years I temporarily installed a Fleetguard (FS1000) spin on filter with
base up on the radiator core support where it was easy to access. The filter is about 3.5" x 9" long so holds lots of crud. I then installed an inline
see through filter near the carb to be able to monitor the fuel going into the engine. I did this with 3/8" rubber fuel line as a 'get home' method,
not a permanent add on as a metal line should be used of course.
It worked great for us and I never had to replace the big spin on filter. After removing the temp filters the crud that came out of
the spin on's intake side was some real nasty stuff.
Anyway, it worked great for our 800 mile trip.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM
 
> Tom,
>
> At least replace the carb filter and loosen the gas cap before you try other more involved fixes. That carb filter is a very common item and
> should be available at any auto parts store for around $3.00. Autozone shows it in stock here for $2.99. WalMart use to have them but they have
> cut back on the filters that they sell.
>
> Ken

I got a new carb filter and installed it. The old one was bad looking. To me anyway.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
 
The carb filter can easily be blocked by water. It seldom sees a great deal
of "stuff" if it is preceeded by an in line filter, but those filters are
frequently a 15 or 20 micron filter which will allow water to pass through,
but intercept rust and "crud" from the tanks. No perfect system, I guess.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> > Tom,
> >
> > At least replace the carb filter and loosen the gas cap before you try
> other more involved fixes. That carb filter is a very common item and
> > should be available at any auto parts store for around $3.00. Autozone
> shows it in stock here for $2.99. WalMart use to have them but they have
> > cut back on the filters that they sell.
> >
> > Ken
>
>
> I got a new carb filter and installed it. The old one was bad looking. To
> me anyway.
>
>
> --
> Tom Lins
> Elkton, FL
> 77 GM Rear Twin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Keep in mind that the carb. is a 1-micron filter while other filters you
buy maybe a 5 or 10-micron filters. You will still have to change it. I
vote for a big filter behind the bumper where if you do get a leak it will
not be in your coach. The bigger the filter you get the better. I would
even consider 2 filters in parallel. You can bypass the inside of the
frame filter for now.
Make sure you pad the extra fuel line so it does not rub on anything.

On Sun, Dec 3, 2017 at 1:09 PM, Hal StClair
wrote:

> When I did the rescue coach back in May on a unit that had been sitting
> 10+ years I temporarily installed a Fleetguard (FS1000) spin on filter with
> base up on the radiator core support where it was easy to access. The
> filter is about 3.5" x 9" long so holds lots of crud. I then installed an
> inline
> see through filter near the carb to be able to monitor the fuel going into
> the engine. I did this with 3/8" rubber fuel line as a 'get home' method,
> not a permanent add on as a metal line should be used of course.
> It worked great for us and I never had to replace the big spin on filter.
> After removing the temp filters the crud that came out of
> the spin on's intake side was some real nasty stuff.
> Anyway, it worked great for our 800 mile trip.
> Hal
> --
> 1977 Royale 101348,
>
> 1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
>
> 1975 Eleganza II, 101230,
>
> 1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
>
> Rio Rancho, NM
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
Tom,
You know that there is a filter at the neck of the carb.
Be sure to replace that as it is not the particulets that is pluging the
filters, but the slime that has been in the tank befor the Ethanal can into
the gas few years ago.
The Ethanal does such a good job of cleaning the tank that this is where
the problems starts.
Less expensive to change the filters than to try to clean the tank as the
slime is at the top of the tank as well and you'll not get it all.
Having one filter right befor the pump will be good, Not after as you'll
end up with a fire when the rubber hose under pressure leaks and start a
fire.

> The carb filter can easily be blocked by water. It seldom sees a great deal
> of "stuff" if it is preceeded by an in line filter, but those filters are
> frequently a 15 or 20 micron filter which will allow water to pass through,
> but intercept rust and "crud" from the tanks. No perfect system, I guess.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>

>

> > > Tom,
> > >
> > > At least replace the carb filter and loosen the gas cap before you try
> > other more involved fixes. That carb filter is a very common item and
> > > should be available at any auto parts store for around $3.00. Autozone
> > shows it in stock here for $2.99. WalMart use to have them but they
> have
> > > cut back on the filters that they sell.
> > >
> > > Ken
> >
> >
> > I got a new carb filter and installed it. The old one was bad looking. To
> > me anyway.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Tom Lins
> > Elkton, FL
> > 77 GM Rear Twin
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Tom, are you using fuel from both tanks? You may be successful if you try
drawing from only one tank. If filter stops up, put a new filter on and
try drawing from the other tank.

Bob Price

The problem with the coach we bought in Springfield MO is resolved but now
we have another issue

The shop that replaced the fuel pump also replaced the filter (standard can
inline filter) We got
about 350 miles and started to slowly get the symtoms of fuel starvation to
the point that we could
only go 30 mph going up hills so I had to replace the filter.

That filter only lasted about 50~60 miles before we started to get the same
symtoms. We made it safely to the KOA in
Paducah and I have spare filters however we have another 800 miles to go.

My question is there anything that will break up the junk that is cloging
the filters?
I think I know the answer but I am not a pro so I have to ask.

I am going to call the local Blacklister tomorrow for a reference to a
good local shop, to late to bother someone tonight.
We are safe and warm so it can wait until morning.

The final analysis of the earlier issue seems to be the isolator failed
open to the chassis battery when the PO still owned the coach
and the alternator boiled the house battery dry and then self-destructed.
The chassis battery ran everything for the 35 miles we got from
when we picked it up. The low voltage (or just age) caused the electric
fuel pump (17 years old) to cease moving enough fuel. And the inline fuel
filter
was clogged after 17 years.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> > If you want to run on a separate tank, simply remove the gas line input to the mechanical pump. put the two 5 gallon tanks on the front
> > bumper and hold in place with bungie or ratchet straps. Run a 3/8" gasoline hose from the input side of the pump to one of the gas cans and away
> > you go. Stop every 40 miles or so and switch tanks before you run one dry.
> >
> > I had one once where the mechanical pump was removed. On that one we put four 5 gallon gas cans on the roof and ran a 3/8" ID hose down the
> > side of the coach, we disconnected the selector valve and connected that hose it to the output hose that was on the selector valve. No pump was
> > necessary as the gas would gravity feed the system. It was a real pain this way climbing out on the roof every 40 miles but we did manage to keep
> > all of the gasoline outside rather than inside with us. Having been through one coach fire I am terrified having gasoline inside with the
> > passengers. We ran a little over 800 miles that way and only ran one 5 gallon can completely dry.
> >
> > One hint, If you do this, get a 1 foot or so piece of 3/8" OD steel pipe or steel / copper line and stick it on the end of the hose going into
> > the gas can. That will keep the pick up end on the bottom of the can. We also stuck a short 1x2 under the can to tilt it towards the pick up end
> > of the can. We got maximum range per can this way.
> >
> > Good Luck.
>
>
> Now that you rmind me about that fire It was a stupid idea on my part.

It was not a stupid idea. I just know what Lauire and I went through trying to put out a gasoline fed fire in our coach. So I am overly cautious.

Lots of people have used the gas can inside the coach idea to move one. I just prefer to keep the gas outside just in case. There is only one quick
way out of that coach if it catches fire.

I'm sorry if I scared you. I just wanted to caution you and let you make your own decision.

I took a trip to Alaska and back carrying 10 gallons of extra fuel. Those 10 gallons stayed outside on a roof rack. I met a guy along the way that
ran out and needed it. I sold him my extra fuel and refilled it again at the next convenient station.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I came home from Louisville on a 7 gallon gas can. I figured the smoking lamp was OUT and had no problems. Except for six or seven stops.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
> > > If you want to run on a separate tank, simply remove the gas line input to the mechanical pump. put the two 5 gallon tanks on the front
> > > bumper and hold in place with bungie or ratchet straps. Run a 3/8" gasoline hose from the input side of the pump to one of the gas cans and
> > > away you go. Stop every 40 miles or so and switch tanks before you run one dry.
> > >
> > > I had one once where the mechanical pump was removed. On that one we put four 5 gallon gas cans on the roof and ran a 3/8" ID hose down
> > > the side of the coach, we disconnected the selector valve and connected that hose it to the output hose that was on the selector valve. No
> > > pump was necessary as the gas would gravity feed the system. It was a real pain this way climbing out on the roof every 40 miles but we did
> > > manage to keep all of the gasoline outside rather than inside with us. Having been through one coach fire I am terrified having gasoline inside
> > > with the passengers. We ran a little over 800 miles that way and only ran one 5 gallon can completely dry.
> > >
> > > One hint, If you do this, get a 1 foot or so piece of 3/8" OD steel pipe or steel / copper line and stick it on the end of the hose going
> > > into the gas can. That will keep the pick up end on the bottom of the can. We also stuck a short 1x2 under the can to tilt it towards the pick
> > > up end of the can. We got maximum range per can this way.
> > >
> > > Good Luck.
> >
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > Not really scared but a lot more cautious. I moved my previous GMC about 5 miles doing the marine tank in the cab trick to get it to where I
> > could drain the tanks safely. This time I took your suggestion to change the carb filter. I also bought a mechanical gas pump they had in stock
> > just in case. Took the coach out on the interstate and climbed a few hills without any problems. So we packed up and headed east. We are now just
> > off I-40 in Newport ,TN at another KOA to rest up for tomorrow.
> >
> > My misconception was that the large filter by the electric fuel pump would stop all the crud from the tank. Well you learn something new every
> > day.
> >
> >
> > Now that you rmind me about that fire It was a stupid idea on my part.
>
> It was not a stupid idea. I just know what Lauire and I went through trying to put out a gasoline fed fire in our coach. So I am overly
> cautious.
>
> Lots of people have used the gas can inside the coach idea to move one. I just prefer to keep the gas outside just in case. There is only one
> quick way out of that coach if it catches fire.
>
> I'm sorry if I scared you. I just wanted to caution you and let you make your own decision.
>
> I took a trip to Alaska and back carrying 10 gallons of extra fuel. Those 10 gallons stayed outside on a roof rack. I met a guy along the way
> that ran out and needed it. I sold him my extra fuel and refilled it again at the next convenient station.


--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
 
> > Ken
> >
> > Not really scared but a lot more cautious. I moved my previous GMC about 5 miles doing the marine tank in the cab trick to get it to where I
> > could drain the tanks safely. This time I took your suggestion to change the carb filter. I also bought a mechanical gas pump they had in stock
> > just in case. Took the coach out on the interstate and climbed a few hills without any problems. So we packed up and headed east. We are now just
> > off I-40 in Newport ,TN at another KOA to rest up for tomorrow.
> >
> > My misconception was that the large filter by the electric fuel pump would stop all the crud from the tank. Well you learn something new every
> > day.
> >
> >
> > Now that you rmind me about that fire It was a stupid idea on my part.

It sounds like you are into the same thing that I had coming back from California. The large filter caught most of the crap but the small filter in
the carb was also catching some that mad it through the big one. Both filters lasted about 2 days each but seemed to fill up and fail on alternate
days. So one day we would change the big one and the next day we had to change the small carb filter.

You do not have that far to go. If you have spares with you you should be able to make it home.

As a side note. A marine boat tank that you are talking about ought to be safer than the 5 gallon gas cans that I have and use. I'm still afraid
of gas can inside the coach but those marine cans are used in side boats all the time.

Good Luck
Ken
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
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