My 1974 Money Pit: Mods & Updates

74_Coach

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Oct 28, 2019
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Central Coast, CA
I have posted comments and pictures of my coach rehab on other threads but I figured it’s time to start my own thread.

Front Cap Mods: As many of us have discovered, the plastic in these coaches hasn’t held up well over the past 40+ years. Both my front cap speaker/light plastic bezels were trashed and unsalvageable so I decided to make my own bezels. Fiberglass bezels are not available.

The original radio was removed at some point and replaced with a single din Kenwood radio with a Jerry-rigged electrical/speaker wiring system (I posted that mess on another thread). The original speakers in the front cap bezels were removed during the radio upgrade so that left a lot of unused space on the original bezels and they are now just light bezels.

I repaired the rear cabinet eye-ball lights during the cabinet/blind rehab and managed to find a pair of dual eye-ball lights that I used on the new light bezels. Since I am adding fans under the rear view mirror and want the switches near the driver, I pulled wiring across the header to the driver light bezel. It will require re-wiring the fans to not use the tiny switch on the fan body but that’s no big deal. I am using a bundled wire set from electric side mirrors since it’s only .8 amps per fan and 18 gauge wire is sufficient.

Rocker switches and bezels were sourced from 66-67 Oldsmobile Cutlass/Vista Cruiser - used and NOS - and I rehab’d the switches for my purposes. 1970 Toronado used a “Nite Watch” switch that was connected to a relay to provide about 1 minute of headlight brightness when engaged (pressing switch down once and then it returned). I converted these switches to on/off switches by deconstructing them and re-using the internal notched spring metal from another switch. This new on/off switch was included on the light bezel to disconnect power to all switches on the bezel.

New appliqués are being made to overlay the text on the switch bezels since they no longer apply. My painter that resprayed the remainder of the ceiling is coming by next week to paint the front cap to match the light bezels.
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Good job Ed! those lights look great.
Thanks! I used wood but had to plane it down a few times, route out excess/unneeded wood and cut rectangular holes for the switches. Straightening those bezels around the switches has been a bear but once the new appliqués arrive I will try again.
 
Good job Ed
It is important to be able to utilize what is available to us locally in order to repair/upgrade/replace components that are no longer available
 
Good job Ed
It is important to be able to utilize what is available to us locally in order to repair/upgrade/replace components that are no longer available
Thanks! As soon as this cold, rainy weather clears up, I can focus on mounting the fans under the rear view mirror then the passenger cab floor.
 
I finally had a chance to address all of annoying leaks from the roof causing severe damage to the passenger cab floor. It turns out that the #1 culprit of roof side leaks was the original antenna mast gasket. Go figure.

Now is the time to pull up that nasty floor and replace it with new 1” marine plywood that has waterproof glue. Attached are some water damaged floor images and deconstruction images of what it all looks like under that floor. The replacement plywood will need to be routed out around the frame.
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I finally discovered the seat belt bolt anchors for 1 dinette passenger. There are 2 holes drilled in the final 1” riser on the passenger side and 2 holes drilled in the riser on the driver side. My dinette is right behind the passenger cab seat so the 2 holes on the driver side are wood plugged. The backside of these holes leads to a nut that is welded to a bracket screwed onto the frame. A 1/2” course thread bolt anchors the dinette and seat belt onto the same nut. The passenger seat belt bolts are anchored the same way but are mounted above these and bolt down vertically.

My dinette was not properly anchored with a 1/2” course thread bolt but rather long lag screws. I am not sure how they avoided damaging the seat belt anchor nuts but they survived.
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Just as a heads up to other owners with Captains seats. The original owner did a major remodel back in 1989 and removed the OEM seats/seat frames and added captains seats. 4 holes on 7” centers hold the seat to the “floor”. I use floor in quotes because it was NOT intended to hold the weight of the pedestal, seat and the passenger from going through the windshield in a major accident when not bolted to the frame. In my case, neither seat was bolted to the frame!!!

Take a look at the routing required over the aluminum frame in this image below. That’s 1/4” of plywood at the aluminum frame rails. All that is holding this floor in is adhesive/sealant and 10 - 3/16” rivets that are at most 1/2” when seated.
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So, I decided to design and build 2 under floor aluminum frame connectors for these seats. They span from frame to frame and includes the seat base bolts as part of the connector. I also added aluminum straps on top to spread out the weight on top. These seats are going nowhere and can now safely accommodate the pedestal seat belt mounts and eliminate the floor mounted belts.

Ed
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It’s been months since I started the cab floor/last step riser project and it’s finally coming together. I just finished applying 1 coat of Pennant Primer to the new riser (3 coats recommended). You can see the water damage in the old riser after 50 years of window & side rail leaks.

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And here it is finally installed and water proofed: Passenger cab floor and 8’ step riser replacement. 1” Marine Plywood was sourced here: Boulter Plywood. All raw plywood was then treated with 3 coats of Pennant Epoxy Primer on both sides and edges. During installation, the backside of the 8’ riser was gooped up with 3M Marine Adhesive 5200. Passenger floor was then glued in with 3M 5200 on all frame rails and riveted into the same exact holes drilled originally. It’s critical getting the correct grip range of .376 - .500 for the 3/16” large diameter domed aluminum/steel rivets using the #10 drilled holes.

Engine cover is the next piece of plywood that will get redone.
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This week’s project is to replace the water damaged original dinette with a new surplus steel dinette that was destined for a Newmar motorhome.

The first order of business is to build a step template for modifying the seat base. This particular dinette is two piece with a pull-out drawer on each dinette half. I will remove the left half drawer but possibly keep the right hand drawer. The two-piece dinette halves will make installation a lot easier. I may have the fabricator duplicate the seat base in aluminum to save on weight but it depends on the quote.

More to follow as it progresses.

Ed

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My fabricator modified the replacement LH dinette per my wood template (see prior post). Lower seat frame then heads to the powder coater next week once they reopen after the holidays. Looks like I will need to fabricate a new table top as well.
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Engine cover redone with Okoume 1” Marine plywood then carpeted. Before stapling the carpet to the engine cover, I had the edge facing the stairs binded to prevent fraying plus cover the latch screws. The binding goes up each side about 4 inches like a flap then stapled down at that length.

I just installed a 2015 Town & Country center floor console and now I have a place to put a cup or two plus storage and a built-in phone charging port. The nice part about this console is that it lifts off so that I can pull the engine cover as needed.

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Engine cover redone with Okoume 1” Marine plywood then carpeted. I just installed a 2015 Town & Country center floor console and now I have a place to put a cup or two plus storage and a built-in phone charging port. The nice part about this console is that it lifts off so that I can pull the engine cover as needed.

Ed
Funny, I just sold a 2010 VW Routan with that exact same console in it. It's a great console. Pro tip: make sure the release cable underneath doesn't ever break. We lost the ability to remove ours, and I never felt like fighting it.
 
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Funny, I just sold a 2010 VW Routan with that exact same console in it. It's a great console. Pro tip: make sure the release cable underneath doesn't ever break. We lost the ability to remove ours, and I never felt like fighting it.
Thanks for the tip! It’s nice to finally have a cup holder and a place to plug in my phone.

i discovered that the 12v power supply metal strips that run the length of the console along with the copper sprung voltage connectors are susceptible to damage. The first console I bought had out-of-whack copper sprung connectors so I recurved them the best I could, tested voltage at the cigar lighter then sold it and bought this one that’s in better shape.

Ed
 
I am now in the final phase of installing my new European style dinette. I removed the pull out drawer on the LH dinette but will keep the RH drawer (not installed yet). It’s about 3” narrower in the isle but not a problem. If it gets annoying navigating the isle, I can always cut the seat cushion board at the frame section on both sides and re-sew the cushion material to match.

The original table is too wide for this set so I will need to create a new table. Not sure yet about re-using the swing out arm on the new table - wait and see.

Ed
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