More to do???

C

chuck will

New member
Nov 18, 1997
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Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
all for this area. Chuck
 
I did my brake lines, rented the double
flaring tool. Worked great. I praticed
on a small peice in the living room
until I got it right. You shouldnt
have any trouble.
Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Richard Bachert
> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 1999 12:12 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: More to do???
>
>
> Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
> INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these
> two functions?
> I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
> designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
> is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those
> new coils go
> foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
> the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
> coach)?
> And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a
> hell of a lot
> more about this than I do right now :-)), might it not be wise to
> convert to
> a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now
> relocated oil and
> xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
> the engine coolant.
>
> I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
> steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
> anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
> stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from
> bulk material.
> If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to
> satisfactorily do this?
> Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's
> NOT a black
> art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate
> when measured
> against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
> of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
> here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a
> ready-to-use form?
>
> Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
> there, done that).
> Dick
>
>
>

> >Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
> >cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
> >transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
> >minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
> >side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
> >thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
> >size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
> >interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
> >this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
> >connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
> >the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
> >check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
> >protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
> >across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
> >radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
> >make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
> >holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
> >GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
> >trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
> >about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
> >are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
> >ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
> >dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
> >welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
> >much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
> >floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
> >all for this area. Chuck
> >
> >
>
>
 
There are a couple of manufacturers who make a combined cooling unit with fan
attached that can be mounted anywhere under the coach. Revcor and Flex-a-lite both
make these units. Flex-a-lite makes a unit that has two different cooling coils in
it with an attached fan that can do both oil and trans oil. Size is 15 x 17 x 3.
Can be mounted anywhere. I am planning to use this config., and mounting it beside
the rad on the drivers side behind the steering assembly. Darren

> Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
> INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
> I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
> designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
> is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
> foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
> the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
> coach)?
> And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
> more about this than I do right now :-)), might it not be wise to convert to
> a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
> xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
> the engine coolant.
>
> I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
> steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
> anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
> stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
> If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
> Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
> art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
> against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
> of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
> here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use form?
>
> Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
> there, done that).
> Dick
>

> >Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
> >cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
> >transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
> >minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
> >side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
> >thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
> >size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
> >interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
> >this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
> >connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
> >the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
> >check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
> >protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
> >across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
> >radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
> >make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
> >holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
> >GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
> >trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
> >about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
> >are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
> >ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
> >dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
> >welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
> >much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
> >floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
> >all for this area. Chuck
> >
> >
 
Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
coach)?
And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
more about this than I do right now :-)), might it not be wise to convert to
a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
the engine coolant.

I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use form?

Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
there, done that).
Dick

>Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
>cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
>transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
>minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
>side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
>thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
>size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
>interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
>this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
>connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
>the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
>check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
>protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
>across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
>radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
>make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
>holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
>GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
>trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
>about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
>are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
>ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
>dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
>welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
>much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
>floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
>all for this area. Chuck
>
>
 
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