More help needed.

I reckon that's because they remind you of the LONE STAR STATE!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Billy Massey
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2016 4:22 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] More help needed.

That's a gorgeous coach! And a very nice job of posting the photo on our
archive.

Thanks for sharing. I love the Alcoa LTS wheels!

bdub
76 Palm Beach in Central Texas
www.bdub.net/GMCLinks.html
https://www.facebook.com/groups/classicgmcmotorhomes/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/gmcmm/

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 8, 2016 10:33 PM

This is a photo test...

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/my-75-royale/p61625-image339.html

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> Thank-you all for your ideas and suggestions.
>
> I too was hoping that someone else with a Royale of the same vintage might be available to offer input. A short time ago I asked on the forum if
> there were any other owners for this very reason, however, nobody replied. I did receive input from a fellow Canadian who has a 77 Royale.
>
> Adrien, thanks for the suggestion, which one's did you install, I like this idea as an option?
>
> A. Hamilton, thanks for your suggestion regarding the sensors, this one, http://appliedgmc.viaretailparts.com/10-1170 looks closer to what I
> removed but not identical. I probably shouldn't be looking for identical as these items may have changed over the last 40 years.
>
> My sensors were attached at the side of the tank, 8 in total, 2 side by each. A wire connects to a screw with what appears to be a black washer
> followed by 2 small nuts... if I can only figure out how to create a folder on the photo archive I could then post images which would make this
> process much easier.
>
> Thanks again for the ideas, I'm still trying to figure out what the other connections are for?
>
> Regards,
> Mike

Mike, Re: Boat deck inspection covers, my water tank top is about 20" x 30"
and I used 2 6" covers. If the tank is narrow on top, it may not work as well, and even though the cover has a rubber seal
I wouldn't put them on the side of the tank.

With the access they provide, cleaning the tank (and keeping it clean) has been very easy.

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
 
Link did not work

> Try this "]http://www.dyersonline.com/ameri-kart-quick-probe-monitoring-system.html[/url].
> I'm not sure why you have a pair for each level....when
> I installed mine (from JimK) there is one reference probe at lowest level
> and then 4 level sensors
>
> --
> Sean and Stephanie
> 73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
> Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD
> Honda 6500 inverter gen.
>
> Colonial Travelers
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Mike,
In looking at the picture that you posted you have a capacitance level system, not sure of the make. The system that Jim K sells is a five wire system with a reference probe and 4 level probes. The one on your tank is still a five wire system with a reference probe mounted next to each sensor probe. A little bit of over kill, the same electrical configuration could have been accomplished by putting just one of the reference probes in the tank just below the bottom sensor probe.

Be aware that the vent (A) should loop above the top of the tank before exiting into the Propane compartment.

As the Royals were finished by Coachman (Jimmy Industries) no two were exactly the same only similar. In the GMC finished coaches the water pump was located at the outlet of the water tank, where is your water pump located in your version?

Would suggest that you change the tank drain to a ball valve to drain the tank and run the drain line thru the floor to exit the water to the outside.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-1-2-in-Brass-Female-In-Line-Ball-Valve/50171483

The valve can be installed easily by removing the handle during installation and reinstalling it afterwards.

Except for some of the early coaches (73 and some of the 74) the water fill in the GMC finished coaches is located on the back of the coach or on the drivers side rear . Their have been horror stories of people putting gasoline in the water system, personal note had a call from a new GMC owner a few years back that had just picked up his coach from a used car dealer and as he left the dealer said that he filled the spare tank by the propane tank with 30 gallons of gas as a favor. He had called me on information on getting his front bearings redone and I told him to take it back to the dealer and have the dealer get the gas out of the water system and clean or replace all the componets in the water system. It was a disaster in the making.

The fill point should be slightly above the top of the tank and make sure that you have a locking fill cap at a minimum or relocation of the fill point.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stainless-steel-deck-fills--P005343298?recordNum=2

Keep asking your questions and by all means get a copy of the manuals for your coach!

You can buy the thumb drive from Billy M or join GMCMI and get the Drive access to a great club. As Matt C says, “Welcome to the Cult”.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
Newsletter Editor/Publisher
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> This is a photo test...
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/my-75-royale/p61625-image339.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Adrien G. The top of my tank is 12" wide, I will look into the inspection covers although I may need to look at a smaller diameter, say 4"? Also, can
you suggest a solution for cleaning - sterilizing?

Keith V. How do the rubber well nut style you have suggested compare with the Applied sensors (sensor probe screw-in, part # 10-1165 MP5)?

SeanKidd, the initial URL didn't work for me either, but a little searching uncovered the tank probe. These probes look very similar to the ones I
removed, the website advertises them as black and gray tank probes, can they be used for fresh water as well?

powerjon, I will get to the coach on Friday and take a few more photos of the control panel for review. You have pointed out that I have a capacitance
level system, once I post some photos of my panel you will have a better idea and can maybe offer some ideas for current replacement units. I should
upgrade this panel to something more efficient.

Can you tell me if the probes suggested by SeanKidd will work for me or if any of the others will be a direct replacement? I have 8 sensors and
matching holes so I prefer to not change to a new 5 wire system that leaves me with holes that require patching?

I will be sure to loop the vent tube over the tank before exiting into the Propane compartment. The water pump was (prior to my removing) located just
to the rear of the tank around the same level as the base of the tank.

The ball-valve for the drain is on my list and the current drain does exit down through the floor and out a drain pipe to the outside. It worked very
well during my emptying of the 40 gallons of water. I will also look into a locking fill cap. Manuals are in my possession.

Thanks once again for all your help on this, just wait till I get to the electrical stuff.

Stay Well,
Mike
 
> Adrien G. The top of my tank is 12" wide, I will look into the inspection covers although I may need to look at a smaller diameter, say 4"? Also,
> can you suggest a solution for cleaning - sterilizing?
>
> Don't use cover that are too small to allow you to reach inside for service. After cutting the cover holes,I let the tank dry, used fine steel
> wool to scrub
> the sides and bottom, vacuumed, rinsed. Sterilized with about 2Tsp/gl chlorine and slosh it around for a while, rinse with clean water a couple of
> times, and good as new. The pipe system may also need sterilizing. Pump solution through, then rinse for a while till smell and taste is ok.
> Adrien G
>
>
>
> Keith V. How do the rubber well nut style you have suggested compare with the Applied sensors (sensor probe screw-in, part # 10-1165 MP5)?
>
> SeanKidd, the initial URL didn't work for me either, but a little searching uncovered the tank probe. These probes look very similar to the ones I
> removed, the website advertises them as black and gray tank probes, can they be used for fresh water as well?
>
> powerjon, I will get to the coach on Friday and take a few more photos of the control panel for review. You have pointed out that I have a
> capacitance level system, once I post some photos of my panel you will have a better idea and can maybe offer some ideas for current replacement
> units. I should upgrade this panel to something more efficient.
>
> Can you tell me if the probes suggested by SeanKidd will work for me or if any of the others will be a direct replacement? I have 8 sensors and
> matching holes so I prefer to not change to a new 5 wire system that leaves me with holes that require patching?
>
> I will be sure to loop the vent tube over the tank before exiting into the Propane compartment. The water pump was (prior to my removing) located
> just to the rear of the tank around the same level as the base of the tank.
>
> The ball-valve for the drain is on my list and the current drain does exit down through the floor and out a drain pipe to the outside. It worked
> very well during my emptying of the 40 gallons of water. I will also look into a locking fill cap. Manuals are in my possession.
>
> Thanks once again for all your help on this, just wait till I get to the electrical stuff.
>
> Stay Well,
> Mike

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
 
The sensors are for Amy holding tank, the level system provided by JimK comes with all the same probes. Black, grey or potabale indifferent.

Here's another link http://www.prvparts.com/product-p/20552.htm

I sanitize my system every spring after draining the propylene glycol (pink stuff) by adding 1/2 cup of bleach to a gallon of water then add to the
tank. fill fill it till it overflows. Let it sit for an hour, then run pump with faucets hot and cold till tank is empty. Fill fresh water again and
drain.
--
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.

Colonial Travelers
 
Mike this is the one that is most commonly used to put a clean out inspection plate in your potable water tank. The 6” seems to work best.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/beckson-marine--screw-in-abs-plastic-deck-plates-non-skid-diamond-cross-cut-pattern--P024_726_002_504

It can be found at West Marine, look at 2nd one down, 106254.

As I stressed is that if you do not have a locking gas cap on your water fill then I would suggest that this would be a good piece to use.

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-cap?filterByKeyWord=5091&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false&isSearchByPartNumber=true
or from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Motorad-MGC-91-Locking-Fuel-Cap/dp/B000C5GAXY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478787057&sr=8-2&keywords=motoRad+MGC-91
or
http://tinyurl.com/gvzhk2j

There are many different types of the well-nut style sensors and most all will work with the indicator panel.

You don’g have to patch the extra holes in the tank, just leave the unused sensor in place.

JR Wright
Michigan

>
> Adrien G. The top of my tank is 12" wide, I will look into the inspection covers although I may need to look at a smaller diameter, say 4"? Also, can
> you suggest a solution for cleaning - sterilizing?
>
> Keith V. How do the rubber well nut style you have suggested compare with the Applied sensors (sensor probe screw-in, part # 10-1165 MP5)?
>
> SeanKidd, the initial URL didn't work for me either, but a little searching uncovered the tank probe. These probes look very similar to the ones I
> removed, the website advertises them as black and gray tank probes, can they be used for fresh water as well?
>
> powerjon, I will get to the coach on Friday and take a few more photos of the control panel for review. You have pointed out that I have a capacitance
> level system, once I post some photos of my panel you will have a better idea and can maybe offer some ideas for current replacement units. I should
> upgrade this panel to something more efficient.
>
> Can you tell me if the probes suggested by SeanKidd will work for me or if any of the others will be a direct replacement? I have 8 sensors and
> matching holes so I prefer to not change to a new 5 wire system that leaves me with holes that require patching?
>
> I will be sure to loop the vent tube over the tank before exiting into the Propane compartment. The water pump was (prior to my removing) located just
> to the rear of the tank around the same level as the base of the tank.
>
> The ball-valve for the drain is on my list and the current drain does exit down through the floor and out a drain pipe to the outside. It worked very
> well during my emptying of the 40 gallons of water. I will also look into a locking fill cap. Manuals are in my possession.
>
> Thanks once again for all your help on this, just wait till I get to the electrical stuff.
>
> Stay Well,
> Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Not trying to hijack this topic but all this discussion got me thinking about the problem I faced with my water holding tank. The stock level sensor mounted on the back (center) of the tank started leaking badly and I wound up using epoxy to stop the leak as the sensor isn't working anyways. My question is: Can I fit a float type sensor to the top of the tank to replace the stock one? (i.e. cut a 2 or 3 inch hole in the top) Has anyone done this and what kind of unit works? Putting the float half way up the tank is a bad design I think vs. the top. Obviously a lot less likely to leak all over the place!

Neil (Elvis)
1977 Kingsley 26 footer
Mostly stock 403 with new (used) Zip Dee awning
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

From: "John Wright"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2016 7:21:23 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] More help needed.

Mike this is the one that is most commonly used to put a clean out inspection plate in your potable water tank. The 6” seems to work best.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/beckson-marine--screw-in-abs-plastic-deck-plates-non-skid-diamond-cross-cut-pattern--P024_726_002_504

It can be found at West Marine, look at 2nd one down, 106254.

As I stressed is that if you do not have a locking gas cap on your water fill then I would suggest that this would be a good piece to use.

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-cap?filterByKeyWord=5091&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false&isSearchByPartNumber=true
or from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Motorad-MGC-91-Locking-Fuel-Cap/dp/B000C5GAXY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478787057&sr=8-2&keywords=motoRad+MGC-91
or
http://tinyurl.com/gvzhk2j

There are many different types of the well-nut style sensors and most all will work with the indicator panel.

You don’g have to patch the extra holes in the tank, just leave the unused sensor in place.

JR Wright
Michigan

>
> Adrien G. The top of my tank is 12" wide, I will look into the inspection covers although I may need to look at a smaller diameter, say 4"? Also, can
> you suggest a solution for cleaning - sterilizing?
>
> Keith V. How do the rubber well nut style you have suggested compare with the Applied sensors (sensor probe screw-in, part # 10-1165 MP5)?
>
> SeanKidd, the initial URL didn't work for me either, but a little searching uncovered the tank probe. These probes look very similar to the ones I
> removed, the website advertises them as black and gray tank probes, can they be used for fresh water as well?
>
> powerjon, I will get to the coach on Friday and take a few more photos of the control panel for review. You have pointed out that I have a capacitance
> level system, once I post some photos of my panel you will have a better idea and can maybe offer some ideas for current replacement units. I should
> upgrade this panel to something more efficient.
>
> Can you tell me if the probes suggested by SeanKidd will work for me or if any of the others will be a direct replacement? I have 8 sensors and
> matching holes so I prefer to not change to a new 5 wire system that leaves me with holes that require patching?
>
> I will be sure to loop the vent tube over the tank before exiting into the Propane compartment. The water pump was (prior to my removing) located just
> to the rear of the tank around the same level as the base of the tank.
>
> The ball-valve for the drain is on my list and the current drain does exit down through the floor and out a drain pipe to the outside. It worked very
> well during my emptying of the 40 gallons of water. I will also look into a locking fill cap. Manuals are in my possession.
>
> Thanks once again for all your help on this, just wait till I get to the electrical stuff.
>
> Stay Well,
> Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Neil,
My float sensor is mounted on the rear side without leaks.
The tank sensor mounting flange may be cracked if non stainless steel screws have been used and rusted, the crack
can be welded (what I had to do). unfortunately the tank needs to come down to do a good job.

Top sensor, I don't know of one, haven't look for one. If you did put one on top and it fails, the tank would need to drop (like fuel tanks)
to repair, and could you be sure of no sensor leaks when the tank is overfilled (backup in shower floor)? At least the sensor can be accessed
for service where it's at.
Clean the flange with alcohol before applying sealant ( I used polyurethane ), drill screw pilot holes and don't over tighten the screws.

Hope this helps your evaluation.

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
 
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