Mobil 1 price at Walmart

LarryW

LarryW

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2002
6,033
759
113
Menomonie, WI.
Just picked up two 5qt pails of Mobile 1 at Walmart. FWIW, price reduction on most Mobil 1 5qt pails. Price at our Walmart was $22.88. That is
$4.58/qt. Single quarts are still over $7.00. Might be worth checking out if you use Mobile 1.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Thanks Larry!

Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Sundry other
P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...

>
> Just picked up two 5qt pails of Mobile 1 at Walmart. FWIW, price reduction on most Mobil 1 5qt pails. Price at our Walmart was $22.88. That is
> $4.58/qt. Single quarts are still over $7.00. Might be worth checking out if you use Mobile 1.
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Just picked up two 5qt pails of Mobile 1 at Walmart. FWIW, price reduction on most Mobil 1 5qt pails. Price at our Walmart was $22.88. That is
> $4.58/qt. Single quarts are still over $7.00. Might be worth checking out if you use Mobile 1.

Larry,
You know your way around our GMC motors. What viscosity of Mobile 1 did you buy? I see Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qts $22.88
at Walmart.

I've been a Shell Rotella (15W40) guy with my GMC for 21 years and 2 engines now and am getting ready to switch to synthetic next oil change. I see
there is a Rotella T6 (15W40 $22.46/4 qt) synthetic at Walmart that I never saw before. I like getting my oil at Walmart since they are everywhere
when we are traveling with our GMC and they seem to be cheaper than the chain auto parts stores and we camp there when traveling.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
I've been using Mobil 1 15-50.
BTW walyworld will ship two to your house for FREE.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
> I've been using Mobil 1 15-50.
> BTW walyworld will ship two to your house for FREE.

This is what I have been doing for the last few years. Wix oil filters from Rock Auto are a good deal too.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
> > Just picked up two 5qt pails of Mobile 1 at Walmart. FWIW, price reduction on most Mobil 1 5qt pails. Price at our Walmart was $22.88. That
> > is $4.58/qt. Single quarts are still over $7.00. Might be worth checking out if you use Mobile 1.
>
> Larry,
> You know your way around our GMC motors. What viscosity of Mobile 1 did you buy? I see Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qts
> $22.88 at Walmart.
>
> I've been a Shell Rotella (15W40) guy with my GMC for 21 years and 2 engines now and am getting ready to switch to synthetic next oil change. I
> see there is a Rotella T6 (15W40 $22.46/4 qt) synthetic at Walmart that I never saw before. I like getting my oil at Walmart since they are
> everywhere when we are traveling with our GMC and they seem to be cheaper than the chain auto parts stores and we camp there when traveling.

As noted on my "Four month rip report" I have been using 0W40 Mobil One. This is my choice after considering that I live in Wisconsin and have to
endure starting at below zero temps, yet have to drive in 90-100 temps in the south. Works for me. JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I also use the Mobil 1 0w40 in my Porsche Boxster and VW Touareg.
My old Alfa Spider also gets the 15w50.

--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
> As noted on my "Four month rip report" I have been using 0W40 Mobil One. This is my choice after considering that I live in Wisconsin and have to
> endure starting at below zero temps, yet have to drive in 90-100 temps in the south. Works for me. JMHO

I didn't even know that there was a 0W rated oil until I looked around Walmart yesterday. I probably won't go that low since my GMC never sees the
road when its below zero out. Mainly because I want to keep it out of the stuff that dissolves steel that our highways have on them in abundance here
in Michigan in the winter. Plus the heater does not work that great in our GMC.

So will it be 15W40 or 15W50? That is the question for me to decide when I switch to synthetic.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
> > As noted on my "Four month rip report" I have been using 0W40 Mobil One. This is my choice after considering that I live in Wisconsin and have
> > to endure starting at below zero temps, yet have to drive in 90-100 temps in the south. Works for me. JMHO
>
> I didn't even know that there was a 0W rated oil until I looked around Walmart yesterday. I probably won't go that low since my GMC never sees
> the road when its below zero out. Mainly because I want to keep it out of the stuff that dissolves steel that our highways have on them in
> abundance here in Michigan in the winter. Plus the heater does not work that great in our GMC.
>
> So will it be 15W40 or 15W50? That is the question for me to decide when I switch to synthetic.

Keep in mind that even at 30*, the "0" weight oil will flow to bearings quicker than a "15" weight oil, yet will maintain viscosity of a "40" at 250*.
Getting oil in quantity to bearings at start-up is IMO critical, since it has been shown that most bearing wear takes place at start-up...right when a
"0" gets there quicker in quantity. As I see it, there is no down side to the 0W40, provided that 0W40 has the same film strength as the 15W40 or
15W50. There are a number of oil testing sites on the internet, but not all come to the same conclusions about any given brand or weight of oil.
Probably because their testing methods are not all the same. One rated the Mobil one 0W40 as #6 while another rated it #84. They all seem to agree
that todays lower multi viscosity oils seem to do a better job than the higher viscosity oils. Hard to know what to do here. So I just go with my
relatively informed, off the cuff, back yard mechanic, gut level, eyeball it up and guestimate, feeling about it. Just the way I think.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I remember a conversation that I read about in Road and Track between
Smokey Yunick, a self taught southern boy, and Jim Hall, from Midland
Texas. He was a degree toting automotive engineer. His claim to fame was
aerodynamics with the Chaparral race cars. They both took FULL ADVANTAGE OF
the lack of specific instructions in the rule books. Some even called
Smokey a cheater. Hall incorporated flipper style wings that could be
operated by the driver while underway and ground effects to glue the cars
to the track. Interesting reading. Both Chevy guys and the truck division
of Chevy kept them both well supplied with some really go-fast truck parts.
At the time there was a moratorium on factory sponsorship. But not from
Chevy trucks.

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 2:54 PM Larry via Gmclist
wrote:

> April 2019 09:38

> > > As noted on my "Four month rip report" I have been using 0W40 Mobil
> One. This is my choice after considering that I live in Wisconsin and have
> > > to endure starting at below zero temps, yet have to drive in 90-100
> temps in the south. Works for me. JMHO
> >
> > I didn't even know that there was a 0W rated oil until I looked around
> Walmart yesterday. I probably won't go that low since my GMC never sees
> > the road when its below zero out. Mainly because I want to keep it out
> of the stuff that dissolves steel that our highways have on them in
> > abundance here in Michigan in the winter. Plus the heater does not work
> that great in our GMC.
> >
> > So will it be 15W40 or 15W50? That is the question for me to decide
> when I switch to synthetic.
>
> Keep in mind that even at 30*, the "0" weight oil will flow to bearings
> quicker than a "15" weight oil, yet will maintain viscosity of a "40" at
> 250*.
> Getting oil in quantity to bearings at start-up is IMO critical, since it
> has been shown that most bearing wear takes place at start-up...right when a
> "0" gets there quicker in quantity. As I see it, there is no down side to
> the 0W40, provided that 0W40 has the same film strength as the 15W40 or
> 15W50. There are a number of oil testing sites on the internet, but not
> all come to the same conclusions about any given brand or weight of oil.
> Probably because their testing methods are not all the same. One rated the
> Mobil one 0W40 as #6 while another rated it #84. They all seem to agree
> that todays lower multi viscosity oils seem to do a better job than the
> higher viscosity oils. Hard to know what to do here. So I just go with my
> relatively informed, off the cuff, back yard mechanic, gut level, eyeball
> it up and guestimate, feeling about it. Just the way I think.
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I think that an older engine with all of the slop will do fine with the 15w50 in normal summer weather.
I once had a rebuilt motor in a VW vanagon that wouln't even turn over with the 20w50 in the winter.
I had to warm it outside with an propane heater and change to a 5w??. Next summer back to the 20w50 for the rest of its life.
I use 0w40 in the new cars as that's what mine call for.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
I"m not even sure where to start here....

There are multiple points made and some don't even relate to each other.

First, let's leave RJW out of this discussion because a roller cam is a very different wear issue than a "flat faced follower" as far a wear and other
issues.
Second, the 0WXX was an idea that caught on because OEs have been struggling with cold start emissions since they included them in the driving cycle
tests. But those tests still do not relate to climates colder than LA.
Third, the reason many of us like the Mobil 1 - 15W50 is not for the dynamic viscosity, it is for the ZDDP that is present in the concentration that
is close to what was in typical lube oils when our engines were designed.

All of the moving parts may benefit from the additional anti-wear additives of 1200~1500 ppm, but after break-in that benefit may be minimized but it
is always present. The problem is that the zinc and phosphorus will shorten the life of a catalyst or O2 sensor if the engine consumes much lube oil.
This is why the EPA demanded the reduction. So, if you have an O2 sensor, you may choose to care.

The 0WXX was born of the cold start issues. Most people do not know that a modern ECU can jump through some amazing hoops. This is why many current
engines actually turn off (or severely de-power) alternators at start up. They also defuel the engine in an attempt to limit hydrocarbon on cold
starts. Remember that the exhaust oxidation catalyst won't light until it gets to 350°C. Does it help with lubrication at cold start? Not that any
test I ever did could detect, and we were looking. I did do a lot of thermal testing because that is the quick way to kill a head gasket.

Most of you know that I redid my engine last year. This is/was an engine that we put 70+K plus on and it was rebuilt about 10K on before we got it.
I did put in a new cam because I did not know what the installed cam was. The followers would still rock on a surface plate. (Flat followers are not
flat, but are a 5 to 15 foot radius depending on application.) With a top ring step that was between 1 and 3 mils (my glaze breaker with ridged stone
almost brushed some of them. I could have reused seven of the pistons. The rings were near the wear limit. The cam bearings were just fine, but the
mains were contaminated with aluminum dust that came from the failed #7 piston. Just for reference, that was engine number 23 for me and I don't
count engine I can carry with one hand. (No tiny engines included.)

Now, where am I going with all this??
The Oldsmobile and Cadillac engines with the high nickel blocks and careful engineering are so robust, that with the exception of the break-in of a
flat follower engine (takes about an hour of real run time, but is 90% done in the first 10 minutes), what lube oil you run will probably make little
difference in the effective service life of your engine. If you have any doubts, get the lube oil analyzed regularly and do not try to push the
change interval. You are still dealing with a 40year old engine design and unless you do not have much blow-by, the lube oil will be contaminated
with corrosive by-products.

That is all I have to say about that unless someone has a question or something to add.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The ZDDP is whyI went with the Mobile 1 15w50 in my Alfa in the first place. Overhead cams with truly flat tapets. I stayed with on the GMC. It's
what I had and The ZDDP.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
 
Matt C.:
Surely you are not implying 23 MH engines - but I am not sure based on reading this report! Your statement is unclear and could be very concerning for those interested in our GMC’s.
I think I know the answer but those who don’t know you or our GMC’s - might be very alarmed - just sayin.
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> The ZDDP is whyI went with the Mobile 1 15w50 in my Alfa in the first place. Overhead cams with truly flat tapets. I stayed with on the GMC. It's
> what I had and The ZDDP.
> --
> 1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Matt C.:
> Surely you are not implying 23 MH engines - but I am not sure based on reading this report! Your statement is unclear and could be very
> concerning for those interested in our GMC's.
> I think I know the answer but those who don't know you or our GMC's - might be very alarmed - just sayin.
> Mike/The Corvair a holic

Mike,

I guess either I wasn't clear or you missed that our engine had at least 80Kmiles on it and if I had a good build book for that engine (and was not
paranoid), I could have bought just one (1), Ein, Uno replacement piston and screwed it back together. It would have been good for another 80K at
least.
The original engines in our coaches are very robust beasts. We do have reports of many that successfully did run them to extended mileage. Don't
look for that from a big block Chevy.

I really didn't remember. I was just thinking that this was engine 23. So, here goes.....
Only my 455 and 2 others, and both of these were abused boat engines. (3)
One Olds 425. (1)
One Cadillac 429 (1)
One 300 Ford (1) - it is a good trick to wear out one of these.
One Ford 302 for competition.(1)
Four Chevy Small Blocks (one a 4 bolt) (4)
Two Chevy Big blocks (2)
One Jeep 230 OHC I-6 (1)
Two Gray Marine inline 6s (2) engines from two of my fathers lobster boats
Two Buda marine 6 diesels (2) a friends cruiser
Two GM 6-71 rebuilt and converted to marine service (2) To replace the engines in another friends fleet of work boats
A 190 and a 220 Mercedes pass car diesels (2) both family passcars
I must have skipped a grove.... That is only 22.

I do not include these and I am not ever sure of this count. At that time, I could carry these engines alone.
One Universal badged Kubota marine diesels
Four Universal/Atomic 4 marine engines
Two Ford 2.3 Turbo motors, one for my own car
Two Chrysler 2.2 pass car motors one for Mary's minivan
One Yanmar Marine diesels
Four~six VW flat 4s of different ages and displacments
Two Volvo Marine diesels - one two cylinder the other a three of the same family.
One Yanmar Marine diesel

And an uncounted number of small engines like garden tractors, outboard motors and such.

Yes, I'm gearhead. But you have to include that this is a fifty plus year count.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Matt thanks for the clarification:
So - only one GMC MH engine rebuilt or a max of 3 GMC MH engines over many years and many miles - just good info to know or pass on.
My Elly (76 Eleganza II 26’) - bought from Ray Swartzendruber 6 years ago) has about 79,000 miles on her Dick Patterson rebuilt 455. I believe she should be good for another 75,000 miles or more!
My Dream Machine (76 Glenbrook 28’ stretch) bought from Sylvia Stinnett 3 years ago has about 20,000 miles on her rebuilt Dick Patterson 455. I believe she is good for another 130,000 miles or more!
Just want newbies to understand these old rigs are tough, reliable, & a pleasure to drive!!!
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>

>> Matt C.:
>> Surely you are not implying 23 MH engines - but I am not sure based on reading this report! Your statement is unclear and could be very
>> concerning for those interested in our GMC's.
>> I think I know the answer but those who don't know you or our GMC's - might be very alarmed - just sayin.
>> Mike/The Corvair a holic
>
> Mike,
>
> I guess either I wasn't clear or you missed that our engine had at least 80Kmiles on it and if I had a good build book for that engine (and was not
> paranoid), I could have bought just one (1), Ein, Uno replacement piston and screwed it back together. It would have been good for another 80K at
> least.
> The original engines in our coaches are very robust beasts. We do have reports of many that successfully did run them to extended mileage. Don't
> look for that from a big block Chevy.
>
> I really didn't remember. I was just thinking that this was engine 23. So, here goes.....
> Only my 455 and 2 others, and both of these were abused boat engines. (3)
> One Olds 425. (1)
> One Cadillac 429 (1)
> One 300 Ford (1) - it is a good trick to wear out one of these.
> One Ford 302 for competition.(1)
> Four Chevy Small Blocks (one a 4 bolt) (4)
> Two Chevy Big blocks (2)
> One Jeep 230 OHC I-6 (1)
> Two Gray Marine inline 6s (2) engines from two of my fathers lobster boats
> Two Buda marine 6 diesels (2) a friends cruiser
> Two GM 6-71 rebuilt and converted to marine service (2) To replace the engines in another friends fleet of work boats
> A 190 and a 220 Mercedes pass car diesels (2) both family passcars
> I must have skipped a grove.... That is only 22.
>
> I do not include these and I am not ever sure of this count. At that time, I could carry these engines alone.
> One Universal badged Kubota marine diesels
> Four Universal/Atomic 4 marine engines
> Two Ford 2.3 Turbo motors, one for my own car
> Two Chrysler 2.2 pass car motors one for Mary's minivan
> One Yanmar Marine diesels
> Four~six VW flat 4s of different ages and displacments
> Two Volvo Marine diesels - one two cylinder the other a three of the same family.
> One Yanmar Marine diesel
>
> And an uncounted number of small engines like garden tractors, outboard motors and such.
>
> Yes, I'm gearhead. But you have to include that this is a fifty plus year count.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Had not heard of the ZZDP content in 15-50 mobil !.
Is that only in that wt or across the board?
I had been using the Rosella 10-40 standard
Historically 20-50 castrol GTX in the older vehicles
In my area [FL] cold starts arent really a problem- oppressive heat is.

Regarding start up lubrication, I have used a moroso accu-sump to pre-lube and as a safely feature in case of a momentary blip in pressure on more
race oriented projects. Its faily large though.
Have thought the OMs would have considered a smaller version electronicly valved for start up lubrication.
THen I remember the corporate bean counter mentality.
--
76 Glenbrook
 
Mobil 1 is a product brand family. I just went to their site and there are 14 different products not included different viscosity choices within
those products. So saying Mobil 1 is in sale lacks a lot of detail. Same goes for Rotella but less choices there. But it's growing. I still contend so
many are using too heavy a viscosity just to get feel good ZDDP stats. .
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
> Mobil 1 is a product brand family. I just went to their site and there are 14 different products not included different viscosity choices within
> those products. So saying Mobil 1 is in sale lacks a lot of detail. Same goes for Rotella but less choices there. But it's growing. I still contend
> so many are using too heavy a viscosity just to get feel good ZDDP stats. .

John,

I understand why you might think that, but if you knew how little difference the kinematic vicosity makes inside an engine, you might just care less
about it. When an engine is running and the lube oil is above 150°F, the actual viscosity is just not all that different. I used to have friends at
Mobil. Most that survive have retired, but I know that much of the difference in products on the shelf is for marketing. You have to realize that
every different product needs a place on the shelf. There are always some differences in additive packages for the different products too and I could
go on about this if anybody cared and if I could actually remember about half of what I used to know.

Does ZDDP matter?
Well yes. Years ago Mary was driving a 2.2 Chrysler minivan. It was a 5 speed, and when new, the performance was acceptable. At about 80K, it
became apparent was no longer the case. I brought it in and started a diagnosis. Everything seemed good. I really could not find any big issue
until I did a cranking compression test. A cold cylinder leakdown had not found any issue, but I was getting desperate. That got very poor results.
I checked everything again and then, with the cylinder head cover off, I realized that that the valves were not moving as they should. The cam lobes
were worn just about round. Those engines had sliding followers and they were worn hollow too.

I decided to do have the head off and do a valve job, but it turned out to be just as much work as a full rebuild. That is what I did and the vehicle
was great right up until my son got a hold of it.....

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
But back when your friends were at Mobil, Mobil1 product family was at first only one product. The product was a family of one. Then they came out
with different viscosity products of Mobil 1, but still just called Mobil 1. Now 14 different named products . My point was more to "which Mobil 1
is the one on sale".! Owning many non rollercam GM vehicles I have never had a cam fail. I got away from adding things to oil based on latest data
that it degrades EP performance. Your results may vary, but I think you hit the "expected service life window" on that Mopar. I remember that
engine best at mosquito abatement fogging.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
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