Microwave oven

N

neely butler

New member
Sep 28, 1998
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The owners manual gives great detail as to the use of the microwave oven,
but it was removed or was never installed. Where was it located when
installed by the factory? The power vent over the stove would prevent
installation there. Anyone have an original installation?
Thanks,
Neely B.
Tenn.
'78 Eleganza II
 
We changed to a smaller fridge (shorter) and installed the microwave in the
place where the freezer was. I still have plenty of fridge and the microwave
is conveniently above, mounted flush, and it matched. $139 at Lowes plus a
little woodwork.

TW

- --
Thomas P. Winslow
1977 GMC Coca-Cola TZE167V101893
1974/75 GMC Eleganza SE TZE064V101146
189 Hicks Creek Road, Troutman, NC 28166
h704-528-5868 * f704-528-5868 * p704-878-1157
E-Mail: winslow * tom_winslow
Web Page: http://www.iredell.com http://www.iredell.com/gmc4sale.html

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of
EMERYSTORA
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 10:50 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: Re: GMC: Microwave oven

I didn't have a microwave in my 77 Kingsley but found a good place to
install
one. I have the side closets and drawers opposite the bath. The top
cabinet
had one large door that blocked the hall. I purchased a microwave that had
the right width for the opening, put in a shelf at the right height and then
cut the door down to fit the lower opening that was left. I also cut the
door
vertically so as to make two doors. This now allows us to stand in front of
the cabinet and open the doors without blocking the aisle. The plastic vent
pipe from the kitchen sink to the roof interferred with the top corner of
the
microwave so in order to get the microwave up as high as possible I cut out
a
section the vent pipe and put on a piece of radiator hose that could bow
back
out of the way. I removed the feet of the microwave and put machine screws
through the shelf to fasten it down. The cord dropped behind the back panel
of the cupboard and plugged into the receptical where my converter plugs in.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
>GMCers
>
>I too am going to put mine in the top cabinet of the closet module.
>I am going to remove the door to it.



FWIW, that's what I did. I 'wedged' it in with foam on the sides. Left the
back clear so that fan has room, etc.

It's nicely out of the way there and has ridden many miles, bumps and
bounces without falling out :-)

I used dense foam that was thick enough to expand to make it a very
snug/tight fit.

Some day I'll wire it in permanently. I currently use an extension cord
that plugs in either 110 above the stove or inverter.

Heinz
 
> If I had it to do over I would have bought a 500 watt model so I
> could power it off of a 1000 watt inverter. Thats what I did.
> Take Care
> Arch 76 GB IL

That is what I call great advice, but did you run across a unit with 500
watt power consumption? I have been looking for small, compact, low
power units for some time now? Especially since it only takes another 30
seconds for two hot coccos with a low power unit.

- --
Regards,
John 74 Glacier near Washington, DC.
 
>John
>StatPower offers a combo job with a microwave and an inverter.
>I did not go that route because I wanted the true sine wave
>inverter. Will check at Walmart today they usually have small
>ones this time of year.

Using true sine wave, which is the way I will probably go for other
reasons, what is the max wattage microwave you can use. I gathered,
possibly incorrectly, that a 1000 watt sine wave unit will not support a
1000 watt microwave.

- --
Regards,
John 74 Glacier near Washington, DC.
 
Microwave oven makers specify the tube output when they advertise. The total power consumption is generally 1.35-1.5 times the
cavity power. So, a 1kW microwave will require a steady state input of from 1.35 to 1.5 kW. Most of the newer units that I
looked at in Sears had a power factor of 1.38. You sometimes have to look real hard to find what the total power is - some
units don't have it in a very prominant place. A few didn't have the max input anywhere!

FWIW, the extra power goes to tube inefficiencies, fans, turntables, power supply loss and the other control electronics.

Henry

>
>PMFJI,
> FWIW, my 1000 Watt inverter works fine running my Samsung MU3050W microwave
>(0.5 cu ft., 600W output, turntable but no computer). I don't have my coach
>handy, but I think the oven input power is about 850 - 900 watts, which jibes
>with the power consumption LEDs on the inverter, which are NOT pegged when
>microwaving. Having said that, I think 600W output is about as far as you can
>go with a 1000W inverter. YMMV, so check those specification plates, and
>RTFM. HTH.
>

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
> John
>
>
> I did not go that route because I wanted the true sine wave
> inverter.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> >
> >

Arch, What kind of inverter do you recommend? I am looking for a 1500W or more
unit with a built in 3 stage charger (Plus Equilizer) . I can not see the need
for a converter/charger but rather an inverter/charger like "Managing 12 Volts"
talks about.

Phil Swanson
73 Canyonlands
San Diego

>
> >
 
Arch -

I have installed the TrueCharge 40+ as I mentioned here before. I thought about going with the ProSine integrated
charger/inverter but didn't. The reason is that the recommended carger-battery match is a charger at about 25% of the anp-
hour capacity of the battery bank. So, for the ProSine 2.5 I'd need a battery bank of 400 amp-hours (about twice what I have
in the two golf car batteries).

What I have now is the 40+ charging 2 6v golf car batteries. The charger is running about 20% of the bank capacity.

Next year I plan to add the inverter (also a true sine wave) to run our computer equipment and a few other gadgets when
needed. (The VSAT terminal will need pretty clean power). As a consequence, we will have an inverter that is larger than the
charger would normally allow. I.E. we'll have 3.5 or 3 kW inverter and a smaller 40 amp charger.

Now, if folks can figure out where to put 4 of the larger size golf car batteries and how to distribute the 500 pounds, the
ProSine 2.5 or 3 would be a nice electrical choice.

Henry

>
>Phil
>
>First I am only going to tell you what I am going to do. I will not make
>recommendations. Been burned for that to many times. I dont use
>combo devices. I have had the experience of if one part fails then
>I have to replace both units. From where I sit right now this is what I
>am going to do. Charger/converter http://www.statpower.com/tc40.htm
>
>For the inverter portion of the problem I want to go with a pure sine
>wave unit. I plan to run a computer system and a sound system
>off my unit. So here is how I will go http://www.statpower.com/ps-tsw2.htm
>
>Phil, hope this helps. Feel free to holler if you have any questions.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>>
>> Arch, What kind of inverter do you recommend? I am looking for a 1500W or
>> more
>> unit with a built in 3 stage charger (Plus Equilizer) . I can not see the
>> need
>> for a converter/charger but rather an inverter/charger like "Managing 12
>> Volts"
>> talks about.
>>
>> Phil Swanson
>>
>
>

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
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