Lower Steering Shaft Removal

Stu Rasmussen

Stu Rasmussen

New member
Jan 29, 2019
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Greetings all,

I need to remove the lower steering shaft and didn't find any information on how to do it in a search of the forums. (Why, you ask? Because the upper
steering shaft lower bearing is in the wrong place according to the diagrams and the shaft / CV joint are wobbly when stopped and noisy while
driving)

It appears from the diagrams that once the upper spline retaining bolt is removed the telescoping shaft elements should have enough room to allow the
CV joint to slide off the splined shaft of the steering column.

After removing the retaining bolt and applying some muscle to the telescoping shaft trying to press it downward there was no movement.

Does this mean the telescoping members are probably rusted together or am I doing the whole thing wrong?

If I am on the right track and the telescoping shafts are rusted would injecting grease at the Zerk possibly let it slide or is this a fool's errand?

I thought about trying to take the CV joint apart but the bolt heads didn't match up with any of my wrenches: 7/16", 1/2", 11mm & 12mm. What size are
they?

Thanks for any information -

Stu
--
Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
Silverton, OR
gutted '74 Eleganza II (for sale now)
'77 Birchaven
 
You must mark the parts so you put it back exactly the same as there is a
gemetric fit that must be observed so one does not end up going off phase

On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 8:15 PM Stu Rasmussen via Gmclist <

> Greetings all,
>
> I need to remove the lower steering shaft and didn't find any information
> on how to do it in a search of the forums. (Why, you ask? Because the upper
> steering shaft lower bearing is in the wrong place according to the
> diagrams and the shaft / CV joint are wobbly when stopped and noisy while
> driving)
>
> It appears from the diagrams that once the upper spline retaining bolt is
> removed the telescoping shaft elements should have enough room to allow the
> CV joint to slide off the splined shaft of the steering column.
>
> After removing the retaining bolt and applying some muscle to the
> telescoping shaft trying to press it downward there was no movement.
>
> Does this mean the telescoping members are probably rusted together or am
> I doing the whole thing wrong?
>
> If I am on the right track and the telescoping shafts are rusted would
> injecting grease at the Zerk possibly let it slide or is this a fool's
> errand?
>
> I thought about trying to take the CV joint apart but the bolt heads
> didn't match up with any of my wrenches: 7/16", 1/2", 11mm & 12mm. What
> size are
> they?
>
> Thanks for any information -
>
> Stu
> --
> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
> Silverton, OR
> gutted '74 Eleganza II (for sale now)
> '77 Birchaven
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
The bolts are SAE, you need to bring the lip down so the socket edges
catch.
Call me for guidance

> You must mark the parts so you put it back exactly the same as there is a
> gemetric fit that must be observed so one does not end up going off phase
>
> On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 8:15 PM Stu Rasmussen via Gmclist <

>
>> Greetings all,
>>
>> I need to remove the lower steering shaft and didn't find any information
>> on how to do it in a search of the forums. (Why, you ask? Because the upper
>> steering shaft lower bearing is in the wrong place according to the
>> diagrams and the shaft / CV joint are wobbly when stopped and noisy while
>> driving)
>>
>> It appears from the diagrams that once the upper spline retaining bolt is
>> removed the telescoping shaft elements should have enough room to allow the
>> CV joint to slide off the splined shaft of the steering column.
>>
>> After removing the retaining bolt and applying some muscle to the
>> telescoping shaft trying to press it downward there was no movement.
>>
>> Does this mean the telescoping members are probably rusted together or am
>> I doing the whole thing wrong?
>>
>> If I am on the right track and the telescoping shafts are rusted would
>> injecting grease at the Zerk possibly let it slide or is this a fool's
>> errand?
>>
>> I thought about trying to take the CV joint apart but the bolt heads
>> didn't match up with any of my wrenches: 7/16", 1/2", 11mm & 12mm. What
>> size are
>> they?
>>
>> Thanks for any information -
>>
>> Stu
>> --
>> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
>> Silverton, OR
>> gutted '74 Eleganza II (for sale now)
>> '77 Birchaven
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I think I'm guilty of providing TMI.

Essence of my question: Can I get the CV joint and lower steering shaft disconnected from the steering column without disassembling the CV joint?
Should it just slide off the spline after loosening the clamp?

Thanks!

Stu
--
Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
Silverton, OR
gutted '74 Eleganza II (for sale now)
'77 Birchaven
 
> I think I'm guilty of providing TMI.
>
> Essence of my question: Can I get the CV joint and lower steering shaft disconnected from the steering column without disassembling the CV joint?
> Should it just slide off the spline after loosening the clamp?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Stu

Stu,

From My experience, Yes*.
*That is if the slip shaft still slides.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The blue splined shaft should be able to move a couple of inches to
accommodate body motion. Disconnected at either end, the shaft should
separate there into two parts. So, yes, after REMOVING (not loosening) the
lower clamp bolt the shaft should compress enough for the u-joint to come
off of the steering box input shaft.

Unless you're VERY careful, you'll likely reassemble the upper CV joint in
one of the 5 incorrect positions rather than the one correct one, leaving
your steering wheel cocked. Nonetheless, removing both the upper and
lower clamp bolts, removing the complete lower steering shaft, and
refurbishing/lubricating the whole thing is a good idea. The lower U-joint
is VERY difficult to grease while in place (can't remember WHEN I did
mine). And the blue shaft probably doesn't get hit with grease nearly
often enough.

As we've said before, MARK THE CV JOINT carefully before disassembling it.
And after you've cleaned it, I STRONGLY recommend that you lubricate it
ONLY with Valvoline Synpower grease (for which we were given a new name
here recently). Other greases MAY cause binding in that device.

Ken H.

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 10:50 AM Stu Rasmussen via Gmclist <

> I think I'm guilty of providing TMI.
>
> Essence of my question: Can I get the CV joint and lower steering shaft
> disconnected from the steering column without disassembling the CV joint?
> Should it just slide off the spline after loosening the clamp?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Stu
> --
> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
> Silverton, OR
> gutted '74 Eleganza II (for sale now)
> '77 Birchaven
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Your blue area is probably galled and frozen. Grease it through the fitting, then try a rubber mallet to knock the top part further in to get
clearance to remove. That's what I did. Then it was stuck in short mode so I wrapped 1/8 wire rope through the endeds and around thee base and sadfle
of a 2 ton floor jack to pull it apart for proper cleaning and lubing. If it has not been sliding that takes out the lower column bearing. When you
mate the intermediate shaft coupling on reassembly to the lower spline of main column, be sure it is full homed so bolt fits in relief cut. Lenzi
found like 5 coaches on inspection day where that was improperly installed.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
John,

When you say 'fully homed', I assume you mean that the coupling is slid on enough that the bolt fits easily through the coupling and recess in the
shaft. Rather than 'all the way up and touching the upper (main) steering column bearing.

That bearing, by the way, is a tapered cone bearing and the cone is loose enough that it can fall by gravity and allow the main column spline to
wiggle. My new one wiggles worse than the old one. When my good mechanic and GMC owner buddy saw that, he suggested some sort of narrow set screw
collar with a bellville washer to hold the cone up.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
 
That lower column bearing (the one held in with that horseshoe type wire keeper) has a touch of slop even new. Same as used in GM vehicles of the
era. Saddly it is not sealed. I clean and repack when I have that section apart. Yes the pinch bolt needs to line up with the relief. That is then
the correct depth on the splines. The ones we observed as wrong were about 1/2" or so shy of being installed far enough. Felt they could fall of
driving. That meant the pinch bolt was over the splines near the tip and not centered over the relief. I would try a different bearing. I think the
Corvette one with tilt is the same. Should be available at any of the big Corvette vendors.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
And be darned sure you use the original size bolt in the upper and lower
clamps, else, substituting a smaller bolt, you may be off 1 spline CW or
CCW, causing misalignment of the steering wheel. Trying to correct that
may lead to mis-adjusting the steering box and consequent poor steering.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jul 6, 2019 at 7:00 PM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> That lower column bearing (the one held in with that horseshoe type wire
> keeper) has a touch of slop even new. Same as used in GM vehicles of the
> era. Saddly it is not sealed. I clean and repack when I have that
> section apart. Yes the pinch bolt needs to line up with the relief. That is
> then
> the correct depth on the splines. The ones we observed as wrong were
> about 1/2" or so shy of being installed far enough. Felt they could fall of
> driving. That meant the pinch bolt was over the splines near the tip and
> not centered over the relief. I would try a different bearing. I think the
> Corvette one with tilt is the same. Should be available at any of the big
> Corvette vendors.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Shane,
I have a story about that swap.... I did mine last winter and like it. It just seems smoother. This spring I had some work done on the coach,
including replacing the steering box, and when driving home the steering just didn't seem right - too much play. Expected more of an improvement with
a new box. I didn't have time to check it out before our next rally and suffered with it until we got there, where I finally figured out that the
spring between the D shafts was missing.

This was a small(ish) town and I though maybe a hot rod shop would have some Borgeson parts. I called a couple and was referred to a shop that I then
phoned. The owner said he didn't have any Borgeson parts but remembered that they'd used Ford brake springs in a pinch and to come over and he'd look
at it. I did, and he took it apart and went looking for a spring. Found one, snipped the attachment ends off, slipped it into the Double D shaft, put
the lower coupling on and tightened the set screw and away we went. Took 15 minutes, he wouldn't let me pay him, and the coach steered great all the
way home. I phoned Borgeson when I got home and they sent me one, no charge. I'll put it in 'sometime' but that Ford spring is working just fine.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
 
> And be darned sure you use the original size bolt in the upper and lower clamps, else, substituting a smaller bolt, you may be off 1 spline CW or
> CCW, causing misalignment of the steering wheel. Trying to correct that may lead to mis-adjusting the steering box and consequent poor steering.
>
> Ken H.

It is possible to get the correct size (maybe even OE) bolt in there when it is a tooth off, you just have to hammer it a little. This will do some
minor damage to the fastener threads, but it must have been possible to drive the nut home.

Prior to my acquisition (and I hope since), my coach was apparently conscientiously and diligently maintained. I suspect that the owner turned it
over to a less than competent shop at one time for some reason unknown to me.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I know how sensitive this is as Alex Ferrara has proven that most are off
and thus you have slop that cannot be corrected till it is done right.

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 6:08 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> > And be darned sure you use the original size bolt in the upper and lower
> clamps, else, substituting a smaller bolt, you may be off 1 spline CW or
> > CCW, causing misalignment of the steering wheel. Trying to correct that
> may lead to mis-adjusting the steering box and consequent poor steering.
> >
> > Ken H.
>
> It is possible to get the correct size (maybe even OE) bolt in there when
> it is a tooth off, you just have to hammer it a little. This will do some
> minor damage to the fastener threads, but it must have been possible to
> drive the nut home.
>
> Prior to my acquisition (and I hope since), my coach was apparently
> conscientiously and diligently maintained. I suspect that the owner turned
> it
> over to a less than competent shop at one time for some reason unknown to
> me.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Matt, yes it can go on with force. I just went through a replacement with
alex f assistance and purposely experimented to see how far off you can go
before there is an issue.

I used the drill bit trick as well and found the bit went through off a
tooth. There was more resistance, where force was required, but it would
go through off a tooth.

-Will

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 9:08 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist
wrote:

> > And be darned sure you use the original size bolt in the upper and lower
> clamps, else, substituting a smaller bolt, you may be off 1 spline CW or
> > CCW, causing misalignment of the steering wheel. Trying to correct that
> may lead to mis-adjusting the steering box and consequent poor steering.
> >
> > Ken H.
>
> It is possible to get the correct size (maybe even OE) bolt in there when
> it is a tooth off, you just have to hammer it a little. This will do some
> minor damage to the fastener threads, but it must have been possible to
> drive the nut home.
>
> Prior to my acquisition (and I hope since), my coach was apparently
> conscientiously and diligently maintained. I suspect that the owner turned
> it
> over to a less than competent shop at one time for some reason unknown to
> me.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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