Lots of exhaust questions

Matt Colie

Matt Colie

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2008
11,101
807
113
South East Michigan near DTW
Well, Matt is at it again. He's looking for better ideas.

Now that I can dance around the entire powerplant, I was noticing that the shells of both mufflers are getting ready to break open. I am very glad
that this did not happen on the road somewhere, but the pipe looks to be a cobble-job of bad welds and clamps. Even if I can remove the mufflers (and
I have not yet found a matching part), I am not sure that would be able to or I want to. Both mufflers look to be double offset 2-1/4. But with the
double offset, putting in straight pipe and going to rear muffler with this pipe is just not a good bet.

Any good ideas? I have the exhaust all off and an very proud that I only broke off one of the screws (bolts) in a head, and that is a center so even
if I can't get it out, I don't really care.

The next is an e-mail to JimK to ask what he can supply.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
> Well, Matt is at it again. He's looking for better ideas.
>
> Now that I can dance around the entire powerplant, I was noticing that the shells of both mufflers are getting ready to break open. I am very
> glad that this did not happen on the road somewhere, but the pipe looks to be a cobble-job of bad welds and clamps. Even if I can remove the
> mufflers (and I have not yet found a matching part), I am not sure that would be able to or I want to. Both mufflers look to be double offset
> 2-1/4. But with the double offset, putting in straight pipe and going to rear muffler with this pipe is just not a good bet.
>
> Any good ideas? I have the exhaust all off and an very proud that I only broke off one of the screws (bolts) in a head, and that is a center so
> even if I can't get it out, I don't really care.
>
> The next is an e-mail to JimK to ask what he can supply.
>
> Matt

If as you say, "the shells of both mufflers are getting ready to break open", maybe take a hint from that and make sure that when you put the new
system on, that there are heat shields of some kind between your mufflers and the underside floor boards. Even something like cookie sheets would be
an easy install that would keep a burn through or break open from starting a fire. Just what I think...
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Matt,

When I decided to replace my exhaust, I wanted to go stainless so it would
be the last time. From Jim K., I bought the muffler replacement
pipes because they had the correct offsets to fit. I got the wye that goes
next because it would fit properly. I also got his muffler since it
was round and did not have the fitment problems of the Flowmaster. I went
to my previous employer and ordered a joint of 2&1/2" SS
schedule 5 tube. Went over to Columbus to see Steve Harman(GMC owner) who
runs Tubular Techniques for some SS 90 degree bends.
He had recently purchased a 3" mandrill bender. I purchased two elbows and
he gave me some elbows out of the "Uh-Oh" bin where
they had learned to use the bender. When I went to pickup the length of
tubing, the trucking co. had crunched the end of the package.
I was offered a 50% discount if I took the damaged tube. Since I didn't
need all of it, I went for it. I stopped by Jegs and got a mess of
SS band clamps. I didn't like the way the muffler fit, so I made a 153
degree bend and put the muffler between the dump tube and the
angle brace of the rear frame section in clear space. Of course, I had to
make a 27 degree bend and a longer tailpipe. Later, when I
realized how the big Caddy would bellow through that muffler, Larry Weidner
had found a 3" SS resonator and the tailpipe made a great
place to put it. I'm really happy with it.

Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Matt Colie"
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2018 7:45 PM
To:
Subject: [GMCnet] Lots of exhaust questions

> Well, Matt is at it again. He's looking for better ideas.
>
> Now that I can dance around the entire powerplant, I was noticing that the
> shells of both mufflers are getting ready to break open. I am very glad
> that this did not happen on the road somewhere, but the pipe looks to be a
> cobble-job of bad welds and clamps. Even if I can remove the mufflers
> (and
> I have not yet found a matching part), I am not sure that would be able to
> or I want to. Both mufflers look to be double offset 2-1/4. But with the
> double offset, putting in straight pipe and going to rear muffler with
> this pipe is just not a good bet.
>
> Any good ideas? I have the exhaust all off and an very proud that I only
> broke off one of the screws (bolts) in a head, and that is a center so
> even
> if I can't get it out, I don't really care.
>
> The next is an e-mail to JimK to ask what he can supply.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Few options i have seen, not sure if 23' changes anything?

1. Cheap walker mufflers, are like $40 at summit.

2. Good old school muffler shop will build up their own systems. Have seen nice jobs done complete for less then $500. This will be my choice soon.

3. Two into one spintech muffler. https://youtu.be/Ad8hPnRncuE

4. Bolt up system from applied.

One owner found the bends or had bends made to make his own bolt up system too. But that had to take some time figuring out the pieces.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Good morning Matt. Jwid.. on our 23', 10 years ago I took it to local muffler shop and said fix it. They knew what they were doing and installed 2
1/2" aluminumized pipe and 2 turbo mufflers in OEM location. Lifetime warranty for $200. It does have a nice bellow to it. On our 26' I found a 3"
stainless mandrel bend system with 2 stainless flow masters on the wrecked Birchaven I bought from Luther. I took it to same muffler shop and they
installed it with a 3' piece of 3" stainless added in rear and spent extra time to fit it just right and weld up everstuff with no leaks for $150. I
try to tell everybody I know about Mighty Muffler at exit #1 off 640 bypass in Knoxville, Tenn.

> Well, Matt is at it again. He's looking for better ideas.
>
> Now that I can dance around the entire powerplant, I was noticing that the shells of both mufflers are getting ready to break open. I am very
> glad that this did not happen on the road somewhere, but the pipe looks to be a cobble-job of bad welds and clamps. Even if I can remove the
> mufflers (and I have not yet found a matching part), I am not sure that would be able to or I want to. Both mufflers look to be double offset
> 2-1/4. But with the double offset, putting in straight pipe and going to rear muffler with this pipe is just not a good bet.
>
> Any good ideas? I have the exhaust all off and an very proud that I only broke off one of the screws (bolts) in a head, and that is a center so
> even if I can't get it out, I don't really care.
>
> The next is an e-mail to JimK to ask what he can supply.
>
> Matt

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
I've a local muffler shop that an ol' gray bearded fart runs. He can bend up and weld in stainless or aluminized pretty much anything to anything
have a look at the Ratrod plumbing sometime. Reasonably priced, leakfree, and it doesn't rattle. I'd either find such a shop or buy Applied's
prebent stuff in stainless. If the latter, I'd get it under properly where it doesn't leak or rattle. and then find a good welder who knows what
she's doind to weld all the seams. My experience with long connected pipes wants flanged or welded jubctions.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
I'm a cheap DIYer. I just went to Car Quest bought some 3" aluminized tubing, two flex couplings and some mandrel bends.

I have a royale so that meant a rear mounted mufller would require cutting down a flowmaster 80.

I used a combination of welding and band clamps to put it all together.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5477-new-exhaust.html

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 8:12:30 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Lots of exhaust questions

I've a local muffler shop that an ol' gray bearded fart runs. He can bend up and weld in stainless or aluminized pretty much anything to anything
have a look at the Ratrod plumbing sometime. Reasonably priced, leakfree, and it doesn't rattle. I'd either find such a shop or buy Applied's
prebent stuff in stainless. If the latter, I'd get it under properly where it doesn't leak or rattle. and then find a good welder who knows what
she's doind to weld all the seams. My experience with long connected pipes wants flanged or welded jubctions.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

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Experience has shown me that welding the whole thing together is not such a good idea. I'd make it up so that it can come apart easily at the "Y"
or...If you. have front mufflers....come apart at the mufflers. I'd use SS band clamps holding but joints together at the mufflers. Being able to take
that front part of the exhaust system out of the way makes it easier to drop the transmission. No matter how annal you are about trans and engine
maintainance, stuff happens. Unbolting a couple of band clamps and dropping the front portion of the exhaust makes things a lot easier. Band clamps
done right, can provide a leak free durable system. JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Matt as you may or may not know I did an exact replacement aluminized cat back system for the 84-87 Turbo Regals with GM restoration stamped muffler.
Also just got in stamped muffler samples for 68-72 big block Buick GS. These mufflers are made in Canada and dual wall construction like the
originals. Using my connetions there, I'm waiting for stock replacement samples of the 2.25" offset/offset muffler they make in the correct dimensions
for TZE.. The mufflers by PO on my 455 are the correct size except in shorter body length so there is a cheezy extra 4" lead in pipe I am not liking.
I had bought the Walker Sound FX /NAPA ones listed in the interchange and though dimensionally ok they must be single wall construction due to their
feather weight compared to a set of original takeoff GMC mufflers I have here. Given Bob D's story on how the single wall casing 'oil canned' and
failed like a cartoon exploding cigar I wanted to get something of at least OE construction quality. I'm waiting to get these samples in and try on my
coach. They won't have any number stampings on them to keep cost down, just a top quality drop in replacement for those who want to keep the stock y
and 2.5" tailpipe. Not trying to start a debate on better modern systems with rear muffler etc just looking for a top quality OE replacement that
won't fail and cause a burnt floor. I would say these mufflers are in a severe duty situation due to short exhaust pipes before mufflers and GVW.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
My friend who sold me my GMC, and does most of the work on it for me, told me that he could put in a stainless system (which he said would "last
forever"), but it could run about $2500. My entire piping is rusted out and I've done a couple quick fixes for now, but want to get it repaired
eventually.

Do any of you who have done stainless think its worth the investment? I plan on keeping my GMC as long as I can, but it is kind of a steep price?
--
Brian K
1977 Eleganza II, TZE167V100261
Bellevue, WA
Rebuilt 455, New brake system, a lot of Original Equipment ready to fall apart (discovering more as I go along....)
 
Stainless exhaust is like a diesel engine. Great for bragging rights but will never pay for itself.

A good aluminized exhaust will last decades on a motorhome

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Brian Krikorian
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 11:05:56 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Lots of exhaust questions

My friend who sold me my GMC, and does most of the work on it for me, told me that he could put in a stainless system (which he said would "last
forever"), but it could run about $2500. My entire piping is rusted out and I've done a couple quick fixes for now, but want to get it repaired
eventually.

Do any of you who have done stainless think its worth the investment? I plan on keeping my GMC as long as I can, but it is kind of a steep price?
--
Brian K
1977 Eleganza II, TZE167V100261
Bellevue, WA
Rebuilt 455, New brake system, a lot of Original Equipment ready to fall apart (discovering more as I go along....)

_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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> Matt as you may or may not know I did an exact replacement aluminized cat back system for the 84-87 Turbo Regals with GM restoration stamped
> muffler. Also just got in stamped muffler samples for 68-72 big block Buick GS. These mufflers are made in Canada and dual wall construction like
> the originals. Using my connetions there, I'm waiting for stock replacement samples of the 2.25" offset/offset muffler they make in the correct
> dimensions for TZE.. The mufflers by PO on my 455 are the correct size except in shorter body length so there is a cheezy extra 4" lead in pipe I
> am not liking. I had bought the Walker Sound FX /NAPA ones listed in the interchange and though dimensionally ok they must be single wall
> construction due to their feather weight compared to a set of original takeoff GMC mufflers I have here. Given Bob D's story on how the single wall
> casing 'oil canned' and failed like a cartoon exploding cigar I wanted to get something of at least OE construction quality. I'm waiting to get
> these samples in and try on my coach. They won't have any number stampings on them to keep cost down, just a top quality drop in replacement for
> those who want to keep the stock y and 2.5" tailpipe. Not trying to start a debate on better modern systems with rear muffler etc just looking for a
> top quality OE replacement that won't fail and cause a burnt floor. I would say these mufflers are in a severe duty situation due to short exhaust
> pipes before mufflers and GVW.

John,

I am months away from putting the engine back in, but if you can get me a cost an availability, I would appreciate it.
Thank you.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
$2500.00 for an all stainless steel exhaust system seems a bit rich to me.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> Stainless exhaust is like a diesel engine. Great for bragging rights but
> will never pay for itself.
>
> A good aluminized exhaust will last decades on a motorhome
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Brian
> Krikorian
> Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 11:05:56 AM
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Lots of exhaust questions
>
> My friend who sold me my GMC, and does most of the work on it for me, told
> me that he could put in a stainless system (which he said would "last
> forever"), but it could run about $2500. My entire piping is rusted out
> and I've done a couple quick fixes for now, but want to get it repaired
> eventually.
>
> Do any of you who have done stainless think its worth the investment? I
> plan on keeping my GMC as long as I can, but it is kind of a steep price?
> --
> Brian K
> 1977 Eleganza II, TZE167V100261
> Bellevue, WA
> Rebuilt 455, New brake system, a lot of Original Equipment ready to fall
> apart (discovering more as I go along....)
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Cheap mufflers are not recommended, as one need to realize that the coach
is dumping lot more exaust than a car or pick up.
You should replace both at the same time.
Its your coach, and a free world

> $2500.00 for an all stainless steel exhaust system seems a bit rich to me.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>

>
> > Stainless exhaust is like a diesel engine. Great for bragging rights but
> > will never pay for itself.
> >
> > A good aluminized exhaust will last decades on a motorhome
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Gmclist on behalf of Brian
> > Krikorian
> > Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 11:05:56 AM
> > To: gmclist
> > Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Lots of exhaust questions
> >
> > My friend who sold me my GMC, and does most of the work on it for me,
> told
> > me that he could put in a stainless system (which he said would "last
> > forever"), but it could run about $2500. My entire piping is rusted out
> > and I've done a couple quick fixes for now, but want to get it repaired
> > eventually.
> >
> > Do any of you who have done stainless think its worth the investment? I
> > plan on keeping my GMC as long as I can, but it is kind of a steep price?
> > --
> > Brian K
> > 1977 Eleganza II, TZE167V100261
> > Bellevue, WA
> > Rebuilt 455, New brake system, a lot of Original Equipment ready to fall
> > apart (discovering more as I go along....)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
You bet Matt!
I am anxoius to get these on mine as the funky setup now has a less than perfect pipe to manifold angle and eats the Felpro (Federal Mogul) donuts on
a regular basis.
Stainless is a whole different animal, not without it's problems including ease of tooling and clamping and sound. Considering most of our owner ages,
aluminized should outlast us as long as it is not started idled and shut off wet inside on a regular basis.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
I used Jim K's two muffler aluminized exhaust system. I guess it may be a bit pricey, but I saved a bundle (probably) by installing it myself. It
was a snap and all the pieces fit without issue. I DID need to reuse the stock head pipes, from the manifolds to the muffler, with an adapter
(supplied by Applied) due to the fact that I do not have headers.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
 
When I first got my coach, I bit the bullet and got the Thorley headers and dual muffler system from JimK. Installed the system by myself with the
coach up on ramps and jack stands. Not cheap, but beautifully made and fit together perfectly. The satisfaction of doing it myself was immeasurable!
--
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
 
I believe we lowered the price on both the SS and Aluminized units.
Since we have a shop here, we can make sure they fit, plus we design it so
you can trim the pipe with a saw should there be some shortening that might
need to be done.

On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 7:23 PM, George Rudawsky
wrote:

> When I first got my coach, I bit the bullet and got the Thorley headers
> and dual muffler system from JimK. Installed the system by myself with the
> coach up on ramps and jack stands. Not cheap, but beautifully made and
> fit together perfectly. The satisfaction of doing it myself was
> immeasurable!
> --
> George Rudawsky
> Chicago, IL
> 75 Palm Beach
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Hey Matt!

Have you started a photo album on the GMC photo site? Would love to see some pics on this project.

Jon
--
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
 
> Hey Matt!
>
> Have you started a photo album on the GMC photo site? Would love to see some pics on this project.
>
> Jon

I have not started an album. I am trying to take pictures as I work, but that is more difficult than one might think.
I am probably going with all new stainless back to the straight pipe.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
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