Lost 30A service

Pretty sure my 78 center kitchen Royale runs both ac from shore power or from genny.....it's got 50a cable hard wired in....which you plug into a
socket on the floor when you want to run from the genny. No change over switch.

Pete.

> Deb,
>
> While,you are rooting around in that box take the time to carefully diagram how your coach is wired. Being a GM finished coach there should be no
> surprises unless a P.O. changed things. Some of the upfitter finished coaches back fed breakers to accomplish a transfer switch function going from
> gen to shore,power. Most GM finished coaches simply had you move the power line from the RV post receptacle to a gen receptacle to do that. Most
> GM finished coaches used 50 amp shore power plugs and wire sizes while many upfitters used 30 amp shore power plugs and wire sizes.
>
> Coachman - Royale and Birchhaven - had 30 amp incoming shore power lines and only allowed the front air conditioner to operate off shore power.
> To run the rear air conditioner you had to run the generator. After 40 plus years of owners, you want to know for sure what you have.
>
> The AC lines running to each Air conditioner should be 12 gage two conductor wire with a ground as the original air conditioners consumed more
> power than most new ones do so needed that 12 ga wire to safely carry the starting amp load. A 12 ga AC line can handle up to 20 amps while a 14 ga
> AC line can only handle 15 amps or less depending on the length of the run and corrosion on connectors along the way. A 10 ga AC line can handle
> up,to,30 amps while an 8 ga AC line is required to handle 50 amps. Note, true marine wire can handle more amps at a given size than their AC line
> cousins noted above, but true marine wire is much more expensive and rarely seen in RVs.
>
> Jerry
> Jerry Work
> The Dovetail Joint
> Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
> in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
> in historic Kerby, OR
> http://jerrywork.com
> ----------
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2018 18:55:00 -0600
> From: Deb McWade
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Lost 30A service
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> :uhoh: Oich! OK - smack me and screw my head back on. Put my glasses on (the READING ones) and actually READ the breaker switches - ON is toward
> the
> centre of the box, not toward the bottom.
> So.... flipped the bottom breakers switches UP and guess what!? Everything is fine. :blush: So, Although I DID fry the 50 to 30A dog-bone,
> everything else is fine and runs perfectly on the 50A connector.
>
> I think I'm going to go to bed now and start the day over!
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
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--
Cary, NC

1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
 
Actually, just to 'pick a nit', the 15 amp wire wouldn't support the running load of the AC. 80% of #14 NM cable is 12 amps, the most permitted by the
NEC. The over current device (breaker) can be as much as 225% of the conductors ampacity or 33.75 amps on #14 wire. AC systems fall under different
rules (NEC article 440) :d

Hal,

Slow recovering retired electrician/inspector
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM
 
Deb,
While you're following Ken's advice it's a good idea to pull the breakers and examine the breakers' connectors/clips and the bus bar. Forty year old
breakers can have broken plastic retainer clips or loose metal clips, and bus bars can get eaten by arcing caused by loose connections.

My coach had all of the above problems with the original Coachmen box and breakers. One breaker had gotten so hot that the thermoplastic sealant used
over the assembly screw on the back, meant to prevent arcing to the bus bar, had melted.

As a quick and periodic check, check the temperatures of the breakers with an IR thermometer.

Richard

> Deb,
>
> Even before you change the circuit breakers, you may want to disconnect
> shore power and, if you have one, turn off your inverter. Pull the
> breakers cover and tighten every screw in the box. You'll probably find a
> lot of them loose; perhaps some loose enough to cause the loss of power
> you've experienced. That's a simple preventative maintenance item everyone
> should perform periodically. Even home breaker boxes, constantly exposed
> to heating and cooling, and using ductile conductors, develop loose
> connections. Constantly vibrating on the road makes RV's much more prone
> to the malady.
>
> ​Ken H.​

--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777
 
Excellent point, Richard. I guess I forgot all that since I replaced my
box when I gutted the coach in '98. Even I should recheck it now.

​Ken H.



> Deb,
> While you're following Ken's advice it's a good idea to pull the breakers
> and examine the breakers' connectors/clips and the bus bar. Forty year old
> breakers can have broken plastic retainer clips or loose metal clips, and
> bus bars can get eaten by arcing caused by loose connections.
>
> My coach had all of the above problems with the original Coachmen box and
> breakers. One breaker had gotten so hot that the thermoplastic sealant used
> over the assembly screw on the back, meant to prevent arcing to the bus
> bar, had melted.
>
> As a quick and periodic check, check the temperatures of the breakers with
> an IR thermometer.
>
> Richard
>
 
Ken,
I stumbled upon the problem...thankfully! I was in Phoenix one July and touched my shore power cord to check it's temperature. Hot! IR thermometer
showed 160°. It was in the sun, but... So I started working backwards from the campground pedestal and checking all the temperatures. Circuit
breaker in the coach was 158°. Uh oh. That's what I opened it up, found the broken circuit breaker retaining clip, melted thermoplastic and saw the
bus bar eroded by electrical arcing.

I was chatting with the lady behind the campground counter and told her of my electrical issues. She gave me a tip which hasn't occurred to me.
Don't put the more heavily used circuit breakers next to each other and on the outside. Idea being to keep the heat from transferring between
breakers. Probably not a big issue in not circumstances, but still a good rule of thumb when installing breakers.

Richard
--
'77 Birchaven TZE...777