Lining Fuel Tanks

C

chip gremillion

New member
Jan 7, 2000
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My local radiator repair shop is quoting me about $300 to drop, clean, boil
and line (some sort of coating to patch any leaks) and replace my 2 gas
tanks. My tanks are not leaking, but there are a couple of major rust spots
that I am concerned about. I think it is a good idea in general to replace
the pick-up socks since they have never been changed to my knowledge. My
question is: Is this what I should expect to pay for such a job? BTW, he
also quoted me $85 to clean and rod out the radiator. I have to remove (my
preference).

TIA
Chip Gremillion
75 Glenbrook (used to be)
 
Chip:

Here is a source you can use to check on what they charge. It's the same place
Arch used for his tanks.

http://www.bcrenu.com/

Paul Bartz

From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Chip Gremillion
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 7:38 AM
To: GMC Motorhome Mailing List
Subject: GMC: Lining Fuel Tanks

My local radiator repair shop is quoting me about $300 to drop, clean, boil
and line (some sort of coating to patch any leaks) and replace my 2 gas
tanks. My tanks are not leaking, but there are a couple of major rust spots
that I am concerned about. I think it is a good idea in general to replace
the pick-up socks since they have never been changed to my knowledge. My
question is: Is this what I should expect to pay for such a job? BTW, he
also quoted me $85 to clean and rod out the radiator. I have to remove (my
preference).

TIA
Chip Gremillion
75 Glenbrook (used to be)
 
>My local radiator repair shop is quoting me about $300 to drop, clean, boil
>and line (some sort of coating to patch any leaks) and replace my 2 gas
>tanks. My tanks are not leaking, but there are a couple of major rust spots
>that I am concerned about. I think it is a good idea in general to replace
>the pick-up socks since they have never been changed to my knowledge. My
>question is: Is this what I should expect to pay for such a job? BTW, he
>also quoted me $85 to clean and rod out the radiator. I have to remove (my
>preference).
>
>TIA
>Chip Gremillion
>75 Glenbrook (used to be)

Chip - that doesn't sound like too bad a price. I have dropped mine
myself a couple of times to put on new hoses and it is a bit of a
job, especially when lying on your back under the GMC. He'll
probably have several hours of labor. Make sure that he uses some
sort of spacers (about 1/2" thick) on the top of the tanks so that he
doesn't crimp the vent lines when the tanks are bolted back into
place.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
> BTW, he
>also quoted me $85 to clean and rod out the radiator. I have to remove (my
>preference).
>
>TIA
>Chip Gremillion
>75 Glenbrook (used to be)

This looks like a pretty good price. I paid $90 recently just to
have a small leak soldered on one tube. I also had to remove it and
put in back in myself. To clean and rod it he has to remove both
side chambers and then reassemble, resolder and pressure test the
radiator. With the hourly labor rates most places charge now this
sounds very reasonable.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
Another vent line alternative, to avoid the rubber hose crimping/restricting
problem, is to run steel brake/gas line tubing in lieu of the rubber vent lines,
in the "valleys" on the top of the tank. Silicone over the top of the tubing to
hold it in place.

Paul Bartz

From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Emery L. Stora
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 9:42 AM

>My local radiator repair shop is quoting me about $300 to drop, clean, boil
>and line (some sort of coating to patch any leaks) and replace my 2 gas
>tanks. My tanks are not leaking, but there are a couple of major rust spots
>that I am concerned about. I think it is a good idea in general to replace
>the pick-up socks since they have never been changed to my knowledge. My
>question is: Is this what I should expect to pay for such a job? BTW, he
>also quoted me $85 to clean and rod out the radiator. I have to remove (my
>preference).
>
>Chip Gremillion

Chip - that doesn't sound like too bad a price. I have dropped mine
myself a couple of times to put on new hoses and it is a bit of a
job, especially when lying on your back under the GMC. He'll
probably have several hours of labor. Make sure that he uses some
sort of spacers (about 1/2" thick) on the top of the tanks so that he
doesn't crimp the vent lines when the tanks are bolted back into
place.
 
>Another vent line alternative, to avoid the rubber hose crimping/restricting
>problem, is to run steel brake/gas line tubing in lieu of the rubber
>vent lines,
>in the "valleys" on the top of the tank. Silicone over the top of
>the tubing to
>hold it in place.
>
> Paul Bartz

Greatidea Paul! I'll add this to my list of future things to do.
I'll plan to do exactly that the next time I have to replace the
hoses. Were you able to attach the lines with brass compression
fittings to the pickup tubes so as to eliminate all rubber or did you
use short pieces of hose as connectors?

If one were to do this to the fuel lines as well you might never have
to drop those ##@%$6*^#@ tanks again!

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
Emery:

Although, I have not dropped my tanks yet, I plan to use the steel tubing once I
do. Bobby Moore from Louisville KY is the one I got the idea from. He tells me
he used clamps to secure short lengths of rubber hose to the steel lines.

Paul Bartz

From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Emery L. Stora
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 9:58 AM

>Another vent line alternative, to avoid the rubber hose crimping/restricting
>problem, is to run steel brake/gas line tubing in lieu of the rubber
>vent lines,
>in the "valleys" on the top of the tank. Silicone over the top of
>the tubing to
>hold it in place.
>
> Paul Bartz

Greatidea Paul! I'll add this to my list of future things to do.
I'll plan to do exactly that the next time I have to replace the
hoses. Were you able to attach the lines with brass compression
fittings to the pickup tubes so as to eliminate all rubber or did you
use short pieces of hose as connectors?

If one were to do this to the fuel lines as well you might never have
to drop those ##@%$6*^#@ tanks again!
 
Emery,
If you also attach a fuel drain, as used in aircraft, at the back corner of
the tanks, one could drain water, mud, etc., out by leaving the coach
cockeyed, i.e. the side with the drain sitting at its lowest point, over
night.

JMHO

Roger
Kick the tire, light the fire, first one in the air is the leader
 
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