>, 7 Sep 1999 16:09:31 -0500
>From: "Nate Chase"
.......snip......
>if there were some gotchas the manual doesn't talk about it would be nice to
>know.
.......snip......
Nate, I just got done putting the whole shebang back together here, so
everything is still fresh in my mind (what's left of it, anyways, LOL)
* Break 1 1/2" axle nut and lug nuts loose before jacking the coach up &
removing wheel & tire.
* Block rear wheel before jacking front corner up
* Support the coach at where the front frame is bolted to the side frame
rail.
* Use upended bucket or a milk crate for setting the caliper on once you
get it off.
* Careful with removing those old rusty cotter keys - soak liberally in
penetrant & good luck (I still had to break off the lower ball joint
key and drill it out, not fun)
~~~~~~~~~~~
* Remove caliper and place it on upended bucket behind the control arms
near the frame. The threads for the caliper guide pins (3/8 socket head)
are on the inside knuckle "ears" should you care to shoot penetrant there.
I ended up heating the thread area with a propane torch even with penetrant
and big vise grips in order to remove mine)
* Back off axle nut so just a few threads are engaged.
* Remove tie rod joint & lower ball joint with appropriate tool. I used a
puller with a 2 1/2" throat and a 1 1/2" opening. Rotate tie rod end up
out of the way. Do not lose the lower ball joint seal, which will fall off.
* Back off upper ball joint castellated nut but *do not remove* yet.
* Break the joint loose via crowbar pressure between the upper control arm
and knuckle while striking the knuckle at the ball joint seat area with a
big hammer.
* Knuckle will drop down to loosened castellated nut.
* Remove the nut and brake hose support bracket.
* Remove axle nut and the knuckle & hub assy is out
The rest of the procedure is shown on the web, as you've noted. Once
you've removed the cover plate between the hub and knuckle (3 bolts) you
can pop the knuckle off using a couple of crowbars if it doesn't want to
come off.
You may want to get some new 3/8-16 x 3/4" grade 5 bolts for the above
cover as the heads are usually buggered up from wrench slippage. Hacksaw
screwdriver slots on the ends as shown on the web. Also new caliper guide
pins ($3.59 ea @ Autozone) may be required.
Now would be a good time to replace the CV boot if it shows any signs of
deterioration. Ask yourself if you want to go through all this again to
replace it (I replaced mine). The boot kit will come with grease and bands
for around $10. I used Mobil One grease instead.
** Remember to make sure the outer (towards the rotor) grease seal is
seated after dropping the knuckle onto the new bearing set **
Re-assembly is straightforward although having an extra pair of hands sure
helps *a lot* in lining up the stub axle and lower ball joint without
nicking the inner bearing seal. Once lower ball joint nut is started
enough to hold, shove the assy onto the stub axle far enough to start the
axle nut & take a break. Wash rotor with brake cleaner.
***Bend the upper ball joint cotter key ends so that they will remain above
the end of the joint, precluding any possible contact with the CV
boot.***
The 3/16 x 1 1/2" axle nut cotter key requires a bit of finagling to
install. File a radius on the ends and curve it gently until you get it
well started. Then you can pry it in the rest of the way using a large
screwdriver.
That's all I can think off - HTH
As always, best regards.
~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ Clarkston, MI ~ mailto:rhwang
Visit our home page ~
http://www.concentric.net/~rhwang/
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty ~
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ FMCA F249339 ~ RVClub 00930 ~ ICQ# 6408591~
(B}>
atrick
