Wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper to buy the Caspro system that
automatically detects spark knock and retards the spark instead of trying to
do it manually? $169.00
>Zak
>
>THANKS! I do not plan on putting a 4 inch fire hose up there. It is only
>a 3/8 inch line going to the engine compartment. I am planning on using
>one of the micro-mister heads to spray a very fine mist. Now you can buy
>this same system for $249 from the Mags we all read. They supply a new
>pump and the lawn sprinkler heads plus some tubing you can buy at Lowes.
>Why not use the pump we have and maybe $ 10 worth of new parts to do
>the same thing. Now if I need this system the radiator is going to be well
>over 212 degrees so that any water that hits it as a fine mist is going to
>be changed vapor. No, I will not explode my exhaust manifolds as suggested
>by one backdoor message. Zak is right you could not drive in the rain
>if this were true. Zak I have not raced in a long time but we used to have
>a chart taped inside the tool box that told us how far we could advance
>the timing according to how much humidity was in the air. We checked
>the humidity and set the timing accordingly. If the humidity was high
>then we could push the timing up. If the radiator vaporizes the water
>then the humidity goes up in the engine compartment. A lot less
>knock.
>
>As to deposits. Yes, they might be a problem. I dont expect to run
>this system 24-7. It was only thought of as a problem solver for extreme
>situations. I will go to Walmart and get some CLR if I am in the boonies
>I will spray it with vinegar and wash it off after 5 Min. Yes, vinegar will
>pit the fins on then radiator------it will dissipate more heat because
>of it.
>
>Take Care
>Arch 76 GB IL
>
>>
>> That's pretty funny
! Now the GMC can't even be driven in the rain !!
>> I think that as long as Arch keeps the water to a reasonable amount and
>> mists it on the front of the radiator, that it should evaporate on the hot
>> radiator before it gets to the engine. The evaporation is where the big
>> cooling effects would come into play. There have been some companies that
>> sold systems like this in the FMCA magazine (though most were intended for
>> rear engine motorhomes which would not have
>> to worry about the problem you suggest). Another potential problem might
>> be deposits left by the water. Water can have a lot of minerals in it
>> which would be deposited on evaporation. The deposits might keep both the
>> water and the air from having direct contact with the metal which would
>> reduce the cooling. It probably would not be a real problem, but it is
>> something to consider.
>>
>> Zak
>>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
automatically detects spark knock and retards the spark instead of trying to
do it manually? $169.00
>Zak
>
>THANKS! I do not plan on putting a 4 inch fire hose up there. It is only
>a 3/8 inch line going to the engine compartment. I am planning on using
>one of the micro-mister heads to spray a very fine mist. Now you can buy
>this same system for $249 from the Mags we all read. They supply a new
>pump and the lawn sprinkler heads plus some tubing you can buy at Lowes.
>Why not use the pump we have and maybe $ 10 worth of new parts to do
>the same thing. Now if I need this system the radiator is going to be well
>over 212 degrees so that any water that hits it as a fine mist is going to
>be changed vapor. No, I will not explode my exhaust manifolds as suggested
>by one backdoor message. Zak is right you could not drive in the rain
>if this were true. Zak I have not raced in a long time but we used to have
>a chart taped inside the tool box that told us how far we could advance
>the timing according to how much humidity was in the air. We checked
>the humidity and set the timing accordingly. If the humidity was high
>then we could push the timing up. If the radiator vaporizes the water
>then the humidity goes up in the engine compartment. A lot less
>knock.
>
>As to deposits. Yes, they might be a problem. I dont expect to run
>this system 24-7. It was only thought of as a problem solver for extreme
>situations. I will go to Walmart and get some CLR if I am in the boonies
>I will spray it with vinegar and wash it off after 5 Min. Yes, vinegar will
>pit the fins on then radiator------it will dissipate more heat because
>of it.
>
>Take Care
>Arch 76 GB IL
>
>>
>> That's pretty funny
! Now the GMC can't even be driven in the rain !!>> I think that as long as Arch keeps the water to a reasonable amount and
>> mists it on the front of the radiator, that it should evaporate on the hot
>> radiator before it gets to the engine. The evaporation is where the big
>> cooling effects would come into play. There have been some companies that
>> sold systems like this in the FMCA magazine (though most were intended for
>> rear engine motorhomes which would not have
>> to worry about the problem you suggest). Another potential problem might
>> be deposits left by the water. Water can have a lot of minerals in it
>> which would be deposited on evaporation. The deposits might keep both the
>> water and the air from having direct contact with the metal which would
>> reduce the cooling. It probably would not be a real problem, but it is
>> something to consider.
>>
>> Zak
>>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
