Kitchen Stove

[richard waters]

> GMCers
>
> Well, I spent the day taking the stove apart and putting it back together.
> Everything now works. All the burners, pilot lights even the oven. Now I
> seem to have hit a brick wall. The stove top seems to be made of stainless
> steel but has rusted. In trying to get the rust off I am scratching it all up.
> Does anybody have any experience here? Does anybody know it you can
> still get tops for these stoves? Thanks for any help.
>
> Take Care
> Arch

Arch,
I've run into the same problem. Except in my case the
oven is missing. The PO replaced it with a microwave
that died a few months ago.

I tired to clean up my stove top and it looked worse
when I finished with it then when I started. To make
matters worse the seals around the control shafts are
leaking propane.

I think I'm just going to buy a new stove top and
microwave and be done with it. That is unless
someone has a good way of renewing the existing
stovetop. I have to get a new microwave because I
threw the old one away. It needed a new magnetron
tube and therefore was not worth fixing.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

 

[richard waters]

> > I think I'm just going to buy a new stove top and
> > microwave and be done with it. That is unless
> > someone has a good way of renewing the existing
> > stovetop. I have to get a new microwave because I
> > threw the old one away.
>
> Richard
>
> I thought about buying a new stove but I like the light in my oven and
> my see through door. So decided to fix mine up.
> Take Care
> Arch

Arch,
You're doing the right thing I guess. You're retaining what you
like about the coach.

Right now I'm trying to get ready to possibly go to Rayne next
month. Before I go I have to figure out how to keep the Onan running, and
replace the microwave etc. before I can go. I
figured that a new microwave/convection oven should match
the cook top.

Since the existing cooktop leaks propane and looks like hell
anyway I'd get a new one. I'm too lazy to try to fix and refinish
it.

Also, I have all the locker fronts and drawers out now. I'm
attempting to strip them so that I can refinish them. They were
pretty sorry looking. That project is turning out to be a bigger
job (as usual) then I had anticipated. Those louvers are a pain
to strip. I tried using tung oil to cover up the stains etc. but
that did not work at all.

This GMC stuff never ends does it? My bother has a SOB and
he has never even looked at the engine. He just plays golf when
he living in it for 4 months in Florida.

Richard

 

[paul bartz1]

Arch:

What I used to clean our stove top is liquid rubbing compound (get it from a body
shop supply store) and a buffing wheel. Looks far better than it did.

I believe you can get new tops from Camping World, etc.

Paul Bartz

From: owner-gmcmotorhome
[mailtowner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Gcbr
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 7:13 PM

Well, I spent the day taking the stove apart and putting it back together.
Everything now works. All the burners, pilot lights even the oven. Now I
seem to have hit a brick wall. The stove top seems to be made of stainless
steel but has rusted. In trying to get the rust off I am scratching it all up.
Does anybody have any experience here? Does anybody know it you can
still get tops for these stoves? Thanks for any help.

 

[jerry & meri]

Can the stove top be taken to a shop and be rechromed?
How about some type of refurbish that would compare to the black stove
tops used in home applications?
Jerry & Meri Wallace

> Arch:
>
> What I used to clean our stove top is liquid rubbing compound (get it from a body
> shop supply store) and a buffing wheel. Looks far better than it did.
>
> I believe you can get new tops from Camping World, etc.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailtowner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Gcbr
> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 7:13 PM
>
> Well, I spent the day taking the stove apart and putting it back together.
> Everything now works. All the burners, pilot lights even the oven. Now I
> seem to have hit a brick wall. The stove top seems to be made of stainless
> steel but has rusted. In trying to get the rust off I am scratching it all up.
> Does anybody have any experience here? Does anybody know it you can
> still get tops for these stoves? Thanks for any help.

 

[nate chase]

Arch,
Try a rotary pad on a small hand grinder or scuffing disc to make swirls
on it. I see this done alot lately and I did it using a Roto-Zip Zip Mate
attachment (seen them on TV yet?) with a brillo pad kind of attachment.
Lighter than sandpaper even. It REALLY worked great! Used it on the
stainless plates I added to "The Duece" to stop snow from blowing up on me
while driving it. Gives them an almost 3D look with random swirls on it.
Really neat in the sunlight. Looks like it should have a .50 cal mounted on
top. http://www.tconl.com/~chase/deuce.htm

Nate '75GB (Finally snowed... tore the H-D down today) Omaha

 

[john szalay]

>In a message dated 02/13/2000 12:35:52 AM Central Standard Time,

>
>> This is just a guess, but what about sandblasting it? Usually leaves a
>> uniform matte finish. (I've never tried this, just sounds logical.)
>>
>Rick
>
>Hmmm. Gives me an idea. May try my friends bead blaster. Never
>thought of that. Thanks!
>
>

Arch a word of advice on the bead blast, don,t get too close with the
nozzle, also do not stay in one spot too long, sheet metal will warp
(stretch)
toward the nozzle. so that the top will no longer be flat.
We have a bead blaster at work and use it a lot for prep , on aluminum welding
to clean the area to be welded. ( among other uses)

 

[jerry & meri]

Instead of using beads in the gun try using Arm & Hammer. Works on some
applications where beads are too rough.

> >In a message dated 02/13/2000 12:35:52 AM Central Standard Time,

> >
> >> This is just a guess, but what about sandblasting it? Usually leaves a
> >> uniform matte finish. (I've never tried this, just sounds logical.)
> >>
> >Rick
> >
> >Hmmm. Gives me an idea. May try my friends bead blaster. Never
> >thought of that. Thanks!
> >
> >
>
> Arch a word of advice on the bead blast, don,t get too close with the
> nozzle, also do not stay in one spot too long, sheet metal will warp
> (stretch)
> toward the nozzle. so that the top will no longer be flat.
> We have a bead blaster at work and use it a lot for prep , on aluminum welding
> to clean the area to be welded. ( among other uses)