Thom,
Carl's mention of his A-frame tow bar reminded me to suggest that you
consider the difficulty of connection of your toad: For ease of alignment,
either a trailer or a dolly should be connected BEFORE loading the car.
And I strongly advise against using the inexpensive A-frame, or even the
adjustable mount-on-the car, tow bars, because they make a car even more
difficult to connect than a trailer or dolly, unless you're a very good
driver with exceptional depth perception and alignment recognition. I
towed that way for years before finally breaking down and buying a
coach-mounted tow bar; life's much easier now -- even SHE can position the
car (sorta).
As for the vehicle recommendation, most straight-shift vehicles, especially
the older ones, can be towed 4-down by merely positioning the transmission
in neutral and releasing the parking brake. Only a few automatic
transmissions allow towing for more than a few miles. With a non-towable
automatic, the company Remco makes driveshaft disconnects (for both front-
and rear-drive vehicles) which, for a few hundred dollars, do allow
towing. Until 2014, the most common of the towables was Honda. We towed a
'99 CRV for probably 75,000 miles with never a problem and replaced it a
couple of years ago with one of the last towable ones (2014).
Personally, I wouldn't consider a dolly or trailer for a moment, not only
because of the weight, parking, and other difficulties but also because
there are a few campgrounds that won't even allow parking them on site.
Weight is a consideration, but up to about 4000 lbs should not be a major
problem for a good-running coach, even with a 3.07:1 final drive.
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Fri, Sep 20, 2019 at 9:11 PM Thom High via Gmclist <
> Looking to find a good, reasonably priced car to tow.
> Want to know what you guys are towing and why,
> Also wondering, live tow, tow dolly, or car trailer.
> Thinking something period correct
>
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