Issues with starter/battery power

AmosDriskill

AmosDriskill

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Nov 29, 2023
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Just bought my first coach a few months ago and currently renovating interior so it hasn’t been driven much. Went to start it up and battery seemed to be low so I hooked it up to jumper cables and went to start it. When this was done I heard a pop/snap like sound and smelled a burnt smell coming from starter area. I then turned it off disconnected cables and restarted it with no issues. Drove it to a friends house then home and back twice. No issues. Two days later went to start it and as it was turning over the starter made a screeching and sound and engine quickly shut off. Went to to start again and seemed like starter was trying to turn over but didn’t have enough juice so I jumped it again and couldn’t get enough power. Took battery in to get tested and it was bad. I Bought a new battery and new issue is all the lights will turn on , headlights etc. but as soon as turn key to start I lose all power completely and nothing works. I switched out for another battery and same things happens once I turn key I lose all power and no lights or anything works after that. I checked fuses and all seemed okay. Battery terminal connections seem secure. Not sure how to fix this issues as I’m new to all of this. Any advice would be appreciated
 
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Sounds to me like your battery and your starter were both bad. When you are digging into a vintage vehicle, don't underestimate the frequency that multiple links in the chain are weak/aging out/going bad. Took me days of learning/testing/pulling apart things to discover my first coach had a shorted ammeter AND a bad isolator when I got it... two items I had never messed with in 20 years of messing with cars. The symptoms masked each other until I got them unhooked/isolated. The starter began to act flaky after minimal use, and the solution was a rebuilt one. You may be able to find a alternator/starter rebuild shop locally, or you may have to order one in.
 
You have an electrically dirty battery cable connection somewhere. Time to get out your volt meter and start probing.
 
From the symptoms I suspect you have two problems. First you need to be sure your battery cable clamps are clean and secured, and that means that if you have "patch on clamps" the connection from the cable to the clamp is good. The pigtail on the cable is the first connection to everything in the cocpit.

Second, the "pop snap" you mentioned often comes up when the brushes in the starter are completely worn down. The back plate on the starter can be removed and the brushes inspected. This is of course best done with the starter on the bench. The picture shows brushes that are about 50% used, but if worn to far they won't contact the armature (the part in the center) securely.

Some help:
www.gmcmhphotos.com

Hot start problem, battery / starter

www.gmcmhphotos.com
 

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Thanks for all the tips. I believe I have fixed the electrical issue and lights stay on now when trying to turn it over. It does appear I need to replace starter. Any tips for how to raise the rv up to get this thing out. I’ve read that you can’t just Jack up the front because of windows possibly popping out… not sure if that’s true or not.
 
Also does anyone have a link for the correct starter?

I was going to buy this but not positive it’s correct
 

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AmosDriskill said:
Also does anyone have a link for the correct starter?

I was going to buy this but not positive it’s correct
Click to expand...
That starter is not looking correct. Think it is also kinda spendy. I would
guess more like $100 for a starter.

Should be able search by toronado in order to find a starter.

If you have a local rebuilder… Have them rebuild the starter. That is best.

We did find a 73 gmc coach with it’s own nose cone. But if not a 73 year a starter should be easy to dind.

Here is the napa one I have been installing last couple years:

IMG_0246.webp

Lastly. The jacking up and breaking windshield is a rare thing. Dont jack one side up significantly more then the other…

Intake out wheel well liner passenger side. And jack up the passenger side crossmember. Slide in behind passenger tire to get starter out.. deal with the wires from reaching over
Top
Of tire. Easy job.. have swapped a few out for people in campgrounds.
 
Amos,
The 10MT starter is, in engineering terms, too Robust. It will keep trying long after it wanted to go home. My duly considered advise on this is three levels. I have had some come in with the brush screws half gone.
You can buy a kit of parts on Ebay for less than 20$us. There are a few and you just need to be sure to get the parts that yours needs. You don't even need a lathe to do it.
You can find a reliable rebuilder. There still a few around. fortunately the 10MT is/was a truck part and so these shops will still do it.
If a local supplier can bring one in that will save the shipping cost for Rock Auto, but expect a serious core charge.
Do not spring for a "high torque" version as that is completely unnecessary. I built my 455 at the high end of the CR and the stock MT spins it up just fine.
I changed out one about a month ago in a church parking lot. We did disconnect the negative battery cable (that was easy as it is a 76), and we did jack it at the engine crossmember (with jack stands in place. But other than it being a nasty greasy mess, it was not a difficult job. It is easier with the right front tire removed and working from the top for a lot, but it is not that difficult an operation.
As to cracking the windshields when jacking. That is most often reported when the coach was jacked by other than the three listed jack points. So, if you leave the rear on its suspension and jack the front, there is little to zero risk.
Matt_C
 
AmosDriskill said:
Thanks for all the tips. I believe I have fixed the electrical issue and lights stay on now when trying to turn it over. It does appear I need to replace starter. Any tips for how to raise the rv up to get this thing out. I’ve read that you can’t just Jack up the front because of windows possibly popping out… not sure if that’s true or not.
Click to expand...
 
To do a starter, I've just driven my coach onto a couple 2x6s, stacked with a staggered arrangement. Basically, just a 3" tall improvised ramp. That's all it took for me. 2x8s are nicer, but I just use what I can find within reach. Most folks can scrounge up 4 pieces of 2x6.

Last night, it was giant timbers and some oil change ramps at a friends house. It was kind of an emergent situation...

1703787507065.webp
 
AmosDriskill said:
Thanks for all the tips. I believe I have fixed the electrical issue and lights stay on now when trying to turn it over. It does appear I need to replace starter. Any tips for how to raise the rv up to get this thing out. I’ve read that you can’t just Jack up the front because of windows possibly popping out… not sure if that’s true or not.
Click to expand...

You can run the front end up on ramps to do the starter. Or jack on the center of the heavy crossmember up front, just behind the radiator. Make sure you are not jacking the radiator, or the oil pan behind the crossmember. Then get jack stands on each side of the crossmember.

When you jack the front up, you want it to go straight up equally on both sides within reason. Just get the jack near the center. That way you aren't torqueing on the body too much.

The rear can either be on its airbags with chocked wheels, or up on jackstands.

If you want the whole thing up in the air you need to get the rear up in small steps, side to side until you get it up as high as you want. The front suspension will rock back and forth and absorb the twisting you are putting on the body. Then raise the front from the center equally.

Just avoid twisting the body that occurs if you put the front on two jackstands and then try to jack up the rear, you'll twist on the body that way.
 
Thanks you guys all for the helpful comments! I will keep tips for jacking it up for the next inevitable repair. I ended up just doing it on the ground since I was on a public street and was slightly tilted.

The culprit was the starter and after some new batteries it’s running great! 6FD9686C-78DE-44E4-BEAF-2905EE85C709.webp66640BFA-82E0-4C00-A145-AF16C8E9F237.webp
 
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Or at least DO NOT turn it in as a core! Have it rebuilt and tuck that under your driver seat as a backup for when the junk one you buy from an autoparts store poops out in 6 months
 
My next task is finding correct screws to reinstall my rear ladder as the past owner removed it and had the holes painted over with new paint job

Not sure if I make a new forum every time I ask a new question.
 
AmosDriskill said:
My next task is finding correct screws to reinstall my rear ladder as the past owner removed it and had the holes painted over with new paint job

Not sure if I make a new forum every time I ask a new question.
Click to expand...
Feel free to start a "build thread" in the build thread forum. Even if your coach doesn't need redone from the frame up, it makes for a handy place to catalogue everything you've done. New questions you may have will still get answered, as many of us read every single new post that gets made, so don't worry about any of your questions getting missed.
 
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co
Applied GMC

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