Randy—the radiant heat company (Radiantec out of Vermont) recommended a
small boiler instead of a water heater for this application. It’s actually
much smaller that a water heater that would be big enough. My target is 55
degrees in the winter. I can use portable electric space heaters to
spot-warm a workspace if I’m out there.
My house was original built for hearing using a water-sourced geothermal
heat pump, but the well couldn’t deliver enough water, even with a
3500-gallon holding tank. The house is forced-air now, and it’s not
optimal.
Ken B—the radiant floor system is actually quite cheap if installed during
construction. For 2400 square feet of heated floor, the system is a little
over $6000 including the boiler. The barn has no plumbing, so the system
will be filled with antifreeze and operated closed. The only gas I have is
propane—too expensive—not doing that at all. The foundation contractor will
install 2” of insulated panels below the slab.
When I enclose the attic space, a minisplit is probably how I’ll go. That
comes later.
Rick “might have to drive two states over to find a Menards” Denney
>
> Rick,
>
> I used 3 of these 200W Bay Lights in the shop area (roughly 1300 sq ft)
> where I wanted more light. Still have to use some task lighting under the
> coach because of shadows. I used 2 of the larger 250W lights in the Cold
> Storage (48 x 48) which gives plenty of light in there - I'm not doing any
> long term work in that area.
>
> I've had them in about 6 months and they work great! I have switches at
> every walk-thru door. Lots of wire but worth doing in my opinion.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9HC5SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> I was curious about how you were going to heat water. Based on your last
> post, sounds like you may be using an electric boiler? I'm using a hot
> water heater and it has been working great - got me through the polar
> vortex with temps below freezing for a week and well below zero during 2 or
> 3
> nights. At that time, I was seeing about keeping the rooms at 70 degrees
> with just the floor and it maintained that temp while only cycling 2 or 3
> times during the real cold part. I have decided to have the floor run at
> about 60 degrees which is OK for working in the shop and use the mini-splits
> to raise the temps in the break room - unfortunately, I probably will
> spend most of my time there hoping the work gets done. Next winter I will
> experiment with this more - maybe even keeping the floor down at 50
> degrees and see how the mini-splits do pulling up the heat. I really only
> need the
> higher heat when I'm out there in the barn and can't see paying for the
> heat other times. I have looked into air-to-water heat pumps to heat the
> water which is an excellent way to go. Unfortunately, the US is way
> behind Asia and Europe with this technology and use so prices are fairly
> steep.
> I got my mini-splits at Menards and installed them myself so that did not
> cost much and will provide cooling in the summer.
>
> Better than that would be geo-thermal with a heat pump to exchange heat
> into the water. Probably would be the most efficient approach. I have a
> geo-thermal system at my current home with heat and air through regular
> air ducts. Quite efficient but the barn, heating about the same square
> footage and more volume because of the high ceilings cost slightly less
> than my house.
>
> Enough rambling!
> --
> Randy & Margie
> '77 Eleganza II '403'
> Battlefield, MO
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
small boiler instead of a water heater for this application. It’s actually
much smaller that a water heater that would be big enough. My target is 55
degrees in the winter. I can use portable electric space heaters to
spot-warm a workspace if I’m out there.
My house was original built for hearing using a water-sourced geothermal
heat pump, but the well couldn’t deliver enough water, even with a
3500-gallon holding tank. The house is forced-air now, and it’s not
optimal.
Ken B—the radiant floor system is actually quite cheap if installed during
construction. For 2400 square feet of heated floor, the system is a little
over $6000 including the boiler. The barn has no plumbing, so the system
will be filled with antifreeze and operated closed. The only gas I have is
propane—too expensive—not doing that at all. The foundation contractor will
install 2” of insulated panels below the slab.
When I enclose the attic space, a minisplit is probably how I’ll go. That
comes later.
Rick “might have to drive two states over to find a Menards” Denney
>
> Rick,
>
> I used 3 of these 200W Bay Lights in the shop area (roughly 1300 sq ft)
> where I wanted more light. Still have to use some task lighting under the
> coach because of shadows. I used 2 of the larger 250W lights in the Cold
> Storage (48 x 48) which gives plenty of light in there - I'm not doing any
> long term work in that area.
>
> I've had them in about 6 months and they work great! I have switches at
> every walk-thru door. Lots of wire but worth doing in my opinion.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9HC5SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> I was curious about how you were going to heat water. Based on your last
> post, sounds like you may be using an electric boiler? I'm using a hot
> water heater and it has been working great - got me through the polar
> vortex with temps below freezing for a week and well below zero during 2 or
> 3
> nights. At that time, I was seeing about keeping the rooms at 70 degrees
> with just the floor and it maintained that temp while only cycling 2 or 3
> times during the real cold part. I have decided to have the floor run at
> about 60 degrees which is OK for working in the shop and use the mini-splits
> to raise the temps in the break room - unfortunately, I probably will
> spend most of my time there hoping the work gets done. Next winter I will
> experiment with this more - maybe even keeping the floor down at 50
> degrees and see how the mini-splits do pulling up the heat. I really only
> need the
> higher heat when I'm out there in the barn and can't see paying for the
> heat other times. I have looked into air-to-water heat pumps to heat the
> water which is an excellent way to go. Unfortunately, the US is way
> behind Asia and Europe with this technology and use so prices are fairly
> steep.
> I got my mini-splits at Menards and installed them myself so that did not
> cost much and will provide cooling in the summer.
>
> Better than that would be geo-thermal with a heat pump to exchange heat
> into the water. Probably would be the most efficient approach. I have a
> geo-thermal system at my current home with heat and air through regular
> air ducts. Quite efficient but the barn, heating about the same square
> footage and more volume because of the high ceilings cost slightly less
> than my house.
>
> Enough rambling!
> --
> Randy & Margie
> '77 Eleganza II '403'
> Battlefield, MO
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
