>
>>From this list you can see you do not need to buy a $1500 sinewave
>
>inverter to run your $100 microwave.<
>
>Gene,
>Good suggestion, and in case you're reponding to the thread i had started a
>couple weeks ago, I had actually already given this quite viable option some
>thought, but in my case my 110v needs are for mostly pro-audio gear (mini-
>studio on wheels), and i think i'd do well to just get one large pure-
>sinewave. In my minimalist way, i probably won't even use the conventional
>appliances all that much. there's an 1800w sinewave on sale for $1029
>(windsun, Statpower Prosine 1800 GFCI: List price $1350, Special =
>$1029), and though this is a little bigger than my needs, the price is better
>than many smaller inverters i've seen.
Take a look at http://www.amug.org/~lanegarr/pv/heart/hrtprice.html
They have consistently had the lowest prices that I've seen per AH charger and watt inverter.
>
>Also, anyone have recommendations on the use (or avoidance) of sealed gel
>batteries on the inverter battery bank?
Providing that you have a charger that will handle them, they should work OK. I decided to use Golf Car batteries because
they have more history behind them as a bank of deep cycle batteries. And, they cost less per standby AH.
And lastly, my installer recommends
>the eventual upgrade of my alternator from the current 105 amp to a rebuilt
>ambulance alternator.... 200 amp. Not sure if i want to go this far! Ideas?
>I've been reading "Living on 12v". Not sure if this is the same as "Managing
>12v".... Good stuff regardless...
Well, providing there's no other 12V loads, your 100 amp alternator will charge a 400 AH bank just fine if you switch to a
multi-stage regulator. So, I don't see that replacing the alternator really helps. With our existing 2 battery house bank,
one hour of engine time will restore 50% of the charge quite well - with a different regulator. If you are not going to
replace the exiting regulator you definately have no reason to switch alternators. BTW, you want to make certain f you do
switch to 200 amp alternator that it is rated for 200 amps continuous duty. Many alternators are only rated for a fraction
of the quoted current load on a continuous basis.
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
>>From this list you can see you do not need to buy a $1500 sinewave
>
>inverter to run your $100 microwave.<
>
>Gene,
>Good suggestion, and in case you're reponding to the thread i had started a
>couple weeks ago, I had actually already given this quite viable option some
>thought, but in my case my 110v needs are for mostly pro-audio gear (mini-
>studio on wheels), and i think i'd do well to just get one large pure-
>sinewave. In my minimalist way, i probably won't even use the conventional
>appliances all that much. there's an 1800w sinewave on sale for $1029
>(windsun, Statpower Prosine 1800 GFCI: List price $1350, Special =
>$1029), and though this is a little bigger than my needs, the price is better
>than many smaller inverters i've seen.
Take a look at http://www.amug.org/~lanegarr/pv/heart/hrtprice.html
They have consistently had the lowest prices that I've seen per AH charger and watt inverter.
>
>Also, anyone have recommendations on the use (or avoidance) of sealed gel
>batteries on the inverter battery bank?
Providing that you have a charger that will handle them, they should work OK. I decided to use Golf Car batteries because
they have more history behind them as a bank of deep cycle batteries. And, they cost less per standby AH.
And lastly, my installer recommends
>the eventual upgrade of my alternator from the current 105 amp to a rebuilt
>ambulance alternator.... 200 amp. Not sure if i want to go this far! Ideas?
>I've been reading "Living on 12v". Not sure if this is the same as "Managing
>12v".... Good stuff regardless...
Well, providing there's no other 12V loads, your 100 amp alternator will charge a 400 AH bank just fine if you switch to a
multi-stage regulator. So, I don't see that replacing the alternator really helps. With our existing 2 battery house bank,
one hour of engine time will restore 50% of the charge quite well - with a different regulator. If you are not going to
replace the exiting regulator you definately have no reason to switch alternators. BTW, you want to make certain f you do
switch to 200 amp alternator that it is rated for 200 amps continuous duty. Many alternators are only rated for a fraction
of the quoted current load on a continuous basis.
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
