Interior Update and many questions, newbie.

[mike]

Hello All, greetings from Ontario, Canada. Hope you are enjoying your weekend.

Well I finally got my, new-to-me, 1975 GMC Royale home.

After a long search I narrowed it down and with a PPI from one of the best shops in Ontario, Frank Borrmann of Borrmann's Garage I was able to secure
my first GMC Motorhome. The 2.5 hour drive back home was without issues and the clouds and rain didn't diminish my excitement, what a COOL ride.

I'm not that mechanically inclined and have very little experience with plumbing and zero experience with electricity. There you have it, but I have a
desire to learn and be very hands-on with my planned interior update. The coach has had many mechanical updates so my winter project will be limited
to the interior... for now. My shop where I will be working is heated with plenty of space, most tools, air compressor and welder.

I have many questions, I thought the months of research prior to purchase would have prepared me, however, my theoretical knowledge hasn't caught-up
to my plans for this project, yet.

I have participated on the forum in a limited capacity asking for some help and have been impressed with the level of assistance and willingness from
forum members to provide help. My plan is to join the Heritage Cruisers club and look forward to a rally or two.

Please feel free to provide answers or direction to links where I may find the solution I'm looking for... photos also work best for me.

1) I have removed the rear overheads although I don't plan on removing the fronts, are there any concerns I should be aware of or tips to utilise if I
install a new headliner around the various areas such as front overhead as well as the bathroom and closet areas?

2) After pulling down the material the sub-surface appears to be in good shape except for the glue. Would you recommend I remove this surface by
cutting around the front overheads etc or leave it in place and install the new headliner (not yet decided on but I like the FRP idea) over top of
it?

3) Are there line drawings available or similar which shows the locations with dimensions of the aluminum interior structure? I have searched a found
some good information but was hoping for something more specific if it exists?

4) I will be using power from my shop and will not require use of the batteries, does disconnecting the chassis and house batteries allow for
electrical boxes, outlets or connections etc to be accessed without fear of causing damage or shock?

5) Should I disconnect the generator battery as well, anything else to know if not using the generator until spring?

6) Would you recommend raising the coach off the ground, on stands / blocks to alleviate stress on the air-bag system etc? As I mentioned I probably
will not need to get under the coach for work but you never know?

7) What is your opinion on the Hepvo sanitary waste valve, I plan to replace the sinks in both the kitchen and bathroom?

I'm certain I will be adding questions to this list as I progress with this project, any guidance or suggestions beyond my questions will be greatly
appreciated.

Thank-you for your help,
Stay Well,
Mike

 

[wayne rogewski]

1 and 2. Id pull the front overheads down. its another 30 minutes and you will save hours by not having to cut around things. I would pull the old
headliner down unless its in fine shape. Id rather see whats up there, put in a bit more insulation and know it was done correctly. Use the old
headliner as your template for the new panels. Whether FRP or 1/4 inch ply etc. As you see with the rear panels once you pull one, There is a lip
in the alumuinum where the old panel slides in and somewhat locks. you want to use that lip on the new panels and when they are cut to the proper
length the panel will bow up to the roof and nearly lock itself into place. That is a good thing.

#5. You want to run the generator in the winter for 1/2 hour to 45 mins or more about once a month. This keeps things lubricated, Just remember to
check the oil level each time. You want it to get up to temp so 5 mins here and there is not going to help. Let it run.

#6 Dont park on dirt if you can help it. Get some boards to put the tires on, or concrete is best. Block the rear in between the bogies and let
some air out of the bags so the rear is resting on the blocking. Taking the pressure off the airbags. If the airbags are hotdogged (curved from being
in use and holding the same position for several years) you may want to rotate them 180 degrees while the pressure is off of them.

Enjoy the coach and remember the old saying. "Do it right, or do it over."
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan

 

[mike]

Thanks 77Royale,

I guess it makes sense to remove the front overheads as well. I appreciate your response and the previous email exchanges we have had regarding the
headliner and retaining clip moldings that you used.

Regarding the generator, I can start it periodically and bring it to temperature in order to keep things lubricated, so keeping it connected is fine?
I will put a hose on the muffler to keep the fumes out.

I have read about blocking the "bogies" to help relieve the pressure on the air bags, the coach is on a concrete floor. Is the area directly between
the rear tires and below the air bag system considered the best spot to block or should I raise and place the front and rear under jack stands or wood
blocks?

Thanks again,
Regards,
Mike

 

[dennis sexton]

> Hello All, greetings from Ontario, Canada. Hope you are enjoying your weekend.
>
> Well I finally got my, new-to-me, 1975 GMC Royale home.
>
> After a long search I narrowed it down and with a PPI from one of the best shops in Ontario, Frank Borrmann of Borrmann's Garage I was able to
> secure my first GMC Motorhome. The 2.5 hour drive back home was without issues and the clouds and rain didn't diminish my excitement, what a COOL
> ride.
>
> I'm not that mechanically inclined and have very little experience with plumbing and zero experience with electricity. There you have it, but I
> have a desire to learn and be very hands-on with my planned interior update. The coach has had many mechanical updates so my winter project will be
> limited to the interior... for now. My shop where I will be working is heated with plenty of space, most tools, air compressor and welder.
>
> I have many questions, I thought the months of research prior to purchase would have prepared me, however, my theoretical knowledge hasn't
> caught-up to my plans for this project, yet.
>
> I have participated on the forum in a limited capacity asking for some help and have been impressed with the level of assistance and willingness
> from forum members to provide help. My plan is to join the Heritage Cruisers club and look forward to a rally or two.
>
> Please feel free to provide answers or direction to links where I may find the solution I'm looking for... photos also work best for me.
>
> 1) I have removed the rear overheads although I don't plan on removing the fronts, are there any concerns I should be aware of or tips to utilise
> if I install a new headliner around the various areas such as front overhead as well as the bathroom and closet areas?
>
> 2) After pulling down the material the sub-surface appears to be in good shape except for the glue. Would you recommend I remove this surface by
> cutting around the front overheads etc or leave it in place and install the new headliner (not yet decided on but I like the FRP idea) over top of
> it?
>
> 1,2 REMOVE ALL OVERHEAD BINS FOR BEST ACCESS AND RESULTS
>
> 3) Are there line drawings available or similar which shows the locations with dimensions of the aluminum interior structure? I have searched a
> found some good information but was hoping for something more specific if it exists?
>
> 3 SEE BDUB'S SITE FOR DRAWINGS
> 4) I will be using power from my shop and will not require use of the batteries, does disconnecting the chassis and house batteries allow for
> electrical boxes, outlets or connections etc to be accessed without fear of causing damage or shock?
>
> 5) Should I disconnect the generator battery as well, anything else to know if not using the generator until spring?
>
> 4,5 I WOULD DISCONNECT ALL BATTERUES BUT AREANGE TO OUT THEM ON A MAINTAINER PERIODICALLY TO MAINTAIN CHARGE
>
> AND -- I WOULD NOT START THE ONAN DURING WINTER IF STORED INSIDE
>
> 6) Would you recommend raising the coach off the ground, on stands / blocks to alleviate stress on the air-bag system etc? As I mentioned I
> probably will not need to get under the coach for work but you never know?
>
> USE THE AIR SYSTEM TO RAISE THE REAR THEN PUT A BLOCK UNDER THE BOGIES AND RELEASE THE AIR
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/1973-gmc-bogies/p35719-bogie-gmc-001.html
>
> 7) What is your opinion on the Hepvo sanitary waste valve, I plan to replace the sinks in both the kitchen and bathroom?
>
> NO DIRECT EXPERIENCE BUT I LIKE THE REVIEWS AND BOB DUNAHUGH RECENTLY USED
>
> 8) Forgot to ask about removing the stove top, what do you recommend as far as removing the stove? It is connected to LP, beside shutting of the
> propane at the tank is there anything I need to do before removal?
>
> AS FOR IDEAS -- ALAN STORY RECENTLY COMPLETED A GREAT REDO HE IS A FELLOW CANADIAN
>
> HOPE THIS HELPS
>
> I'm certain I will be adding questions to this list as I progress with this project, any guidance or suggestions beyond my questions will be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank-you for your help,
> Stay Well,
> Mike

--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro

 

[Matt Colie]

Mike,

Now that you are an owner,
Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum....

I will confirm a lot of what Dennis wrote.
As you are going to be inside and heated:
Block her at the bogies and leave everything else alone.
If you are concerned about the APU(generator), fog it and leave it alone after that. The varnish used on electrical windings that absorbed moisture
was replaced after WWII with things like Glypol that do not, so there is no reason to thermal cycle the thing just to shorten its life. I will get
back to this.

Now, about Mike...
You believe you have limited capability. I doubt that very much. You were smart enough to find this group and a good coach - Right??
If you don't have all the documentation you could desire, you download what you are missing at Bdub's.
If you have questions, ask them here. You can try to search the back discussions, and you may find it. But there are people here with experience
levels that boggle the mind. They will gladly share. There is almost no chance that you have an original issue.
If you don't have the tools you need for something (and they look expensive), then stop and think. If you take the coach to someone to work on it,
how much will it cost? Worse yet, how much will you learn about your coach while he is clicking over 100+$us/hour doing this?? If that is not
justification for investing (quality tools are a good investment) in the tools you need, then think about traveling. That is why you bought the coach
- Right?

So, let's just set a friendly scenario:
You have driven to Cape Breton. Just as you are planning to leave the Alexander Bell Museum in Baddeck, you twist the key and she cranks but no fire.
So, you run down the diagnostic tree and there is fuel, but no spark. OK, you have a spare ignition module. So you pop the cap off and go to swap
the new (previously proven good) module, but drop a screw into the distributor. This could be a bad time but you know how to remove and retime the
distributor and it isn't even dark yet. You have already used a good screw driver and will need a 9/16 wrench and probably a timing light. No
Problem...

Or, look at this way. If you can't get to one of the very few known good GMC shops, you will be paying someone that probably only cares about getting
the beer money out of the job. You are literate, (you proved that already) you have an IQ that is probably over 100 (GMCs do not attract those that
cannot think), so you are probably already ahead of that guy you would have to pay. And then you would probably have to pay someone else later to get
what he did set right...

As long as you have access to here, you have access to all the best people to advise you how to deal with any issue that arises. The depth of GMC
knowledge here is awesome in the true sense of the word.

Apart from some other things, engines have a limited number of thermal cycles that they can tolerate. Use them wisely. I was an engine professional
for most of my career and used this fact in testing many different engines. But about the Onan, one thing you should do is the Flywheel/Pertonix mod
to replace the ignition points and also put in a prime circuit. The is all documented here. If it has many hours on it, you might want to decarbon
the heads. Do not buy new head gaskets. This can be done without removing the Onan from its berth. Just do pull the fasteners to final torque
carefully.

Replacing the headliner is a good start, but please live in the coach for a while before you make major changes. These old girls were designed with
great thought and care. Like, you say removing the stove top. If you are planning to remove it for good, think about your options. We use ours and
even have used the real oven. If you do remove it even temporarily, I suggest you get a flare plug (available at a hardware store) to close the line
off just to eliminate one potential disaster.

Please yourself and us a big favor. Go to account settings and fill in a better sigfile. It should have your real name. (That is what we try to use
here. It is easier to know who you are when we meet that way.) A bit about the coach include any major mods. (In your introduction you said it is a
75 Royale and that is good, but if it is in the sigfile we don't have to remember and in this case, Royale is important.) and finally, a geographic
reference. (This is important as there are many owners that may choose to be some help that need to know if they are in striking range. Ontario is
about 1500kM long (about 1000M)and it would be nice to narrow that by a little.) If you go to and scroll down, you
will find it. Remember to scroll down to "Update".

Now, you got here, and that is good. What you will soon discover is that your coach is not just another toy, but it links you to a community that
will become a very pleasant and important part of your life. This is an amazing supportive and helping group. The only other community I know of
like this is that of the watermen that are my world. For that reason, I like to welcome new owners here much as any new owner or vessel is welcomed.
So,

May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those the set forth within her.

Welcome Mike

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[mike]

Dennis and Matt and Warren, many thanks for your ideas, suggestions and welcome to the community.

The depth of your answers and the time taken to share your experiences is appreciated, it is quite a group of knowledgable individuals brought
together by the passion and pleasures each share with a vehicle. A motorhome built in limited numbers with a following so committed to its
preservation that owners have become part of a family, very cool like the GMC.

I hope one day to meet and thank-you personally.

I shall learn a lot here and look forward to the process, thanks again.

Stay Well,
Regards,
Mike

 

[steve southworth]

The best place to meet those who post here is at the GMCMI conventions. The support and friendship you have experienced on the net is even better
when face to face with them.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI

 

[jeanette]

So true Steve.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> The best place to meet those who post here is at the GMCMI conventions. The support and friendship you have experienced on the net is even better
> when face to face with them.
> --
> Steve Southworth
> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
> 1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
> Palmyra WI
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[kay h. zupke]

I could not agree more always enjoy the get togethers
Kay H. Zupke
zeke20
’75 EleganzaII
The Stewburner Houston TX

>
> So true Steve.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>

>>
>> The best place to meet those who post here is at the GMCMI conventions. The support and friendship you have experienced on the net is even better
>> when face to face with them.
>> --
>> Steve Southworth
>> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
>> 1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
>> Palmyra WI
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org