I know that. I would prefer that you would argue with the manual, rather
than me. I personally use what the manual says, EVEN THOUGH IT GOES
CONTRARY TO EVERYTHING I HAVE EVER BEEN TAUGHT. I suspect that the factory
wants to insure that the sealant around the water passages and
head/manifold intersection gets firmly in place. I never have had a problem
with the factory recommended procedure.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
> Jim,
> In maintenance manual 6a 33 shows torquing the bolts from the outer bolts
> to the interior bolts. I was always taught to torque from the middle and
> work out.
>
>
X7525.pdf
>
>
>
> > This is what I have done several times with no failures.
> > 1. Set up a scrupulously clean area on your workbench. Invert the
> manifold
> > over something stable that fits the carb mounting area.
> > 2. Religiously clean intake manifold to cylinder head surfaces. I use
> > BrakeKleen and new green Scotchbrite pad for this. Use compressed air to
> > dry and remove residue.
> > 3. Use 4 bolts or other items that closely fit the 4 corner manifold
> bolts
> > to align the gaskets with the ports. If they line up well, very good.
> > 4. I spray the contact surfaces with DryChem bluing, and place the
> gaskets
> > over the dried dye coating. Carefully scribe the area that the block-off
> > plate cut out is to be placed. Then trial fit the block off plates to the
> > scribed area. If the plates fit inside the scribed area, good. If they
> are
> > larger, scribe around the outside of the plates and trim the gaskets to
> fit
> > around the plates. DO NOT NEGLECT THIS STEP, your intake will more than
> > likely leak if you do not do this step.
> > 5. After this fits successfully, remove the bolts, gaskets and clean off
> > the DyeChem. At this point, I use the Product called "The Right Stuff"
> > sealant to mount the block off plates onto the intake manifold. Clamp the
> > plates down to flatten out the sealant, and wait until the sealant
> cures. I
> > use the 1 minute stuff and work fast.
> > 6. Spray the mating surfaces with "Hi-Tack" spray sealant and let it tack
> > up. Likewise, the gasket, place the two sprayed surfaces together, using
> > the alignment bolts to keep the gaskets in place while the Hi-Tack cures.
> > 7. Almost there. Use "The Right Stuff" on the gaskets where the water
> > passages are, and spray the heads and gaskets with Hi-Tack, place the
> > neoprene end gaskets onto the ends of the block, use a generous dab of
> > right stuff on the intersections of the heads with the block, and place
> the
> > manifold on the heads. I use tapered alignment punches to line up the
> > manifold.
> > 8. Hand fit the hold down bolts, do not cross thread them, and screw them
> > down snug. Look at all four corners to see if the sealant oozes out and
> > that the end dams stayed in place.
> > 9. FOLLOWING THE TORQUE SEQUENCE DESCRIBED IN THE MANUAL, torque the
> > manifold to 25 foot pounds. You are now done.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
> >
> >
> > > So I have Jim/Dicks intake gasket with the SS block off plates. my
> > > crossover is filled and I'm ready to put the intake back on.
> > > No instructions were included and it's sunday.
> > > I know about using RTV for the valley ends but...
> > >
> > > What do you all recommend for sealing the gasket to the heads?
> > > Put it together dry?
> > > Use a high tack sealant?
> > > dry except RTV around the water crossovers?
> > > What about the block off plate? whats to be done w that?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > --
> > > Keith Vasilakes
> > > Mounds View. MN
> > > 75 ex Royale GMC
> > > ask me about MicroLevel
> > > Cell, 763-732-3419
> > > My427v8
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> LaGrange, Wyoming
> GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
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