Installing Small Electric Fuel Pump- anyone?

[Carl Stouffer]

Michael,

After trying several inexpensive push through solenoid type pumps, I finally wized up and installed a Carter 4070 on the outside of my frame along
with relocating the fuel lines, filter, and selector valve.

I did NOT follow the usual safety protocol of installing it through an oil pressure switch but it is probably an excellent idea. Mine is wired
through a relay that is triggered by the tank selector switch and it also pumps through the mechanical pump (BAD, I know).

I know the risks of running it this way, and will probably get around to correcting the situation eventually (if it's not too late by then).
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member

 

[LQQKatJon]

The carter 4070 that carl suggests is the most reliable one I know of. Used on vw buggies and my old wagoneer, Never failed.

However they are kinda a pain to mount on a gmc in my opinion.

I say go with a basic facet cube pump. Buy off amazon. 4-8 psi.

Just put a flat mounting plate accross the frame or it can even be screwed up to the floor. Just use it occationally. Like everytime you start the
gmc. Switch to aux. start. And switch back. You hear it pumping and will know a good sound vs a bad sound. Dont go a year and switch to aux and
expect it to all work.

THere is a photo in my write up:

http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/2017/04/fuel-lines.html?m=1
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[michael1]

I just installed dual Carter 4070 pumps, two 100 Micron Pre-Filters, and a 14 Micron Fuel/Water Separator on my GMC.
It is located outside the frame rail, I routed the tanks to each filter/pump combo and used the Separator wire to control a relay.
I eliminated the stock Fuel Selector Valve and the stock Mechanical Fuel Pump.
I mounted everything to an aluminum panel, and used 1" spacers between it and the frame.
I was able to keep the Parking Brake Cables behind it.

As I am writing this I just discovered the WIX 33226 which is just over 1/2" shorter, I will be changing to that in the future.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fuel-system/p67219-fuel-pumps.html

--
1973 GMC 26' Glacier - Unknown Mileage - Has a new switch pitch transmission with Powerdrive

 

[roy keen]

Is there a reason for not using 1 pump for each tank?
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[johnny]

Here's how I did one for each tank. They're Mr. Gasket low pressure pumps. They have Wix filters on, the supplier chinese one leaked around the
seam. Built in check valves. Feed the relay armature with 12v through a ford turnonver switch. Cap the selector valve and use its power to pull the
relay

--johnny

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6198-cane-9-creek-rv-park-heflin-2c-al.html

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[michael1]

I have one pump for each tank, that eliminates the selector valve.
I used to have one pump and the selector valve, but it had issues.

> Is there a reason for not using 1 pump for each tank?

--
1973 GMC 26' Glacier - Unknown Mileage - Has a new switch pitch transmission with Powerdrive

 

[roy keen]

Got it the fuel is flowing right to left I was thinking left to right now it makes sense . Nice set up
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[Ken B]

> Is there a reason for not using 1 pump for each tank?

There is no reason not to do it. Many have done it. My OEM system works fine so I have no bothered to do it and "upgrade" to that system.



--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[LarryW]

> I installed a Supplemental Electric Carter 4070 Fuel pump on my 1976 GMC.
>
> The pump is activated by pressing and holding a spring loaded momentary button for 10 to 20 seconds (With the Tank Selector Switch also set to
> AUX) on the dash to temporarily boost fuel to the engine after it has been sitting for an extended period of time to reduce cranking time on start
> up.

IMO, REDUCING the cranking time on an engine that has been sitting for an extended period is NOT really a good thing. During that extended period,
gravity will pull oil off of bearing surfaces, leaving them dry and exposed to damage when the engine starts. Long cranking in this situation gives
the oil pump time to prime all bearing surfaces with oil so that adequate lubrication is available when the engine finally fires up. I have fuel
injection on my Cadillac engine. When sitting for long periods, I will pull the fuse for the FI and the coil wire, and crank the motor until I see oil
pressure. I have found that it can take 30 seconds or more before the oil pressure gauge shows pressure indicting to me that oil is flowing to the
bearings. Personally, I would not want my engine to run for 30 seconds without lubrication to the bearings. Is it hard on the starter, yes. But
starters are cheaper and easier to replace than an engine rebuild. Again, JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.