I'm a little confused.

K

Ken B

Well-known member
Oct 9, 2002
16,833
280
83
13 years ago I bought all new LED clearance lights. Well two days go I started replacing the rear rusted in original clearance lights. I had a
planed to fiber glass in speed nuts to reinforce the threaded mounting areas. I have never had these off before and when I removed the first one I
found Netserts (Rivnuts) holding it in place. Obviously a PO had been in there before as the nuts were epoxied in place. They spun and broke loose
from the epoxy. So I had to repair them. I pulled up the loose nuts and and rolled a thin bead of plumber's epoxy putty and place it underneath
them. Then I flattened them back flush with a hammer. This stuff sets up in 6 minutes and is fully hard in 4 hours. About 1 hour later I mixed up
some JB Weld and put it around the edge of the Rivnut for additional strength. Those things are really in there now.

So I moved on to the second one. After removing it I was surprised to also find the same kind of Rivnuts. I removed the third and it is the same
way. The second and third were obviously OEM.

So now I'm asking why people were in previous postings well nuts to install clearance lights? What was wrong with the original Rivnuts (Nutserts)?

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I had to grind my original rivnut things flush with a grinding wheel, tap them through, then drill to a size that would hold the available rubber with
brass insert type. For all ten, times two screws, and then fixing some wiring...etc. I do remember parking the coach on an incline with rear low, so
the front cap where those lights are was safer to sit on while doing the grinding. Leaning forward off a ladder was subject to pushing the ladder out
and falling, and when the coach is level the roof is curved enough forward I felt like I was going to fall over the windshield. Had to feel solid to
grind, because one slip of the grinder takes a big gouge out of the surrounding plastic.
--
1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
Raleigh, NC
 
I use short scaffolding for working on the clearance lights. On most of the
Royale coaches that I work on, the lights are held on with moly anchors.
Which are a toggle or expanding drywall anchor. They are made of aluminum
and do not hold worth a darn. I take a pair of side cutters and cut the
legs off and pull them out and throw them away. They are usually 1/4" O.D.
I then redial the holes to 3/8" and use blind well nuts in the new holes.I
usually set the well nuts in a bed of 3M 5200 sealant. When properly
installed, they do not leak, and if you use stainless steel screws with
them and a bit of nevr-seez, you can always remove them. The molded one
piece LED clearance won't leak either. Use the sponge type gaskets in a bed
of 5200 sealant, and it will probably be the last time you will have to
mess with clearance lights. The LED clearance lights go for about $10.00
each, there are 10 of them on the coach. The rest of the hardware and
sealant will be less than $40.00 or so. Once and done.
But, if you are into self abuse, just re-furbish the original leaker
type lights. There is no way I have ever seen to waterproof those things.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> I had to grind my original rivnut things flush with a grinding wheel, tap
> them through, then drill to a size that would hold the available rubber with
> brass insert type. For all ten, times two screws, and then fixing some
> wiring...etc. I do remember parking the coach on an incline with rear low,
> so
> the front cap where those lights are was safer to sit on while doing the
> grinding. Leaning forward off a ladder was subject to pushing the ladder out
> and falling, and when the coach is level the roof is curved enough forward
> I felt like I was going to fall over the windshield. Had to feel solid to
> grind, because one slip of the grinder takes a big gouge out of the
> surrounding plastic.
> --
> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
> Raleigh, NC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Just a thought about any of those expanding shank type threaded inserts. Always clean the threads with a tap before installing the screw. Use NeverSeize, and if there is ANY damage to the screw threads, use a new screw, or use a die to clean the thread up.

----- Original Message -----

From: "James Hupy"
To: gmclist
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 9:08:58 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] I'm a little confused.

I use short scaffolding for working on the clearance lights. On most of the
Royale coaches that I work on, the lights are held on with moly anchors.
Which are a toggle or expanding drywall anchor. They are made of aluminum
and do not hold worth a darn. I take a pair of side cutters and cut the
legs off and pull them out and throw them away. They are usually 1/4" O.D.
I then redial the holes to 3/8" and use blind well nuts in the new holes.I
usually set the well nuts in a bed of 3M 5200 sealant. When properly
installed, they do not leak, and if you use stainless steel screws with
them and a bit of nevr-seez, you can always remove them. The molded one
piece LED clearance won't leak either. Use the sponge type gaskets in a bed
of 5200 sealant, and it will probably be the last time you will have to
mess with clearance lights. The LED clearance lights go for about $10.00
each, there are 10 of them on the coach. The rest of the hardware and
sealant will be less than $40.00 or so. Once and done.
But, if you are into self abuse, just re-furbish the original leaker
type lights. There is no way I have ever seen to waterproof those things.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> I had to grind my original rivnut things flush with a grinding wheel, tap
> them through, then drill to a size that would hold the available rubber with
> brass insert type. For all ten, times two screws, and then fixing some
> wiring...etc. I do remember parking the coach on an incline with rear low,
> so
> the front cap where those lights are was safer to sit on while doing the
> grinding. Leaning forward off a ladder was subject to pushing the ladder out
> and falling, and when the coach is level the roof is curved enough forward
> I felt like I was going to fall over the windshield. Had to feel solid to
> grind, because one slip of the grinder takes a big gouge out of the
> surrounding plastic.
> --
> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
> Raleigh, NC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Tyler
You said, " because one slip of the grinder takes a big gouge out of the
surrounding plastic." Let me add that one gouge if it missed the plastic
is quite likely to attack assorted fleshy parts on your good self. A tool
like a chain saw that should be respected !

Mike in NS

> Just a thought about any of those expanding shank type threaded inserts.
> Always clean the threads with a tap before installing the screw. Use
> NeverSeize, and if there is ANY damage to the screw threads, use a new
> screw, or use a die to clean the thread up.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "James Hupy"
> To: gmclist
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 9:08:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] I'm a little confused.
>
> I use short scaffolding for working on the clearance lights. On most of the
> Royale coaches that I work on, the lights are held on with moly anchors.
> Which are a toggle or expanding drywall anchor. They are made of aluminum
> and do not hold worth a darn. I take a pair of side cutters and cut the
> legs off and pull them out and throw them away. They are usually 1/4" O.D.
> I then redial the holes to 3/8" and use blind well nuts in the new holes.I
> usually set the well nuts in a bed of 3M 5200 sealant. When properly
> installed, they do not leak, and if you use stainless steel screws with
> them and a bit of nevr-seez, you can always remove them. The molded one
> piece LED clearance won't leak either. Use the sponge type gaskets in a bed
> of 5200 sealant, and it will probably be the last time you will have to
> mess with clearance lights. The LED clearance lights go for about $10.00
> each, there are 10 of them on the coach. The rest of the hardware and
> sealant will be less than $40.00 or so. Once and done.
> But, if you are into self abuse, just re-furbish the original leaker
> type lights. There is no way I have ever seen to waterproof those things.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>

>
> > I had to grind my original rivnut things flush with a grinding wheel, tap
> > them through, then drill to a size that would hold the available rubber
> with
> > brass insert type. For all ten, times two screws, and then fixing some
> > wiring...etc. I do remember parking the coach on an incline with rear
> low,
> > so
> > the front cap where those lights are was safer to sit on while doing the
> > grinding. Leaning forward off a ladder was subject to pushing the ladder
> out
> > and falling, and when the coach is level the roof is curved enough
> forward
> > I felt like I was going to fall over the windshield. Had to feel solid to
> > grind, because one slip of the grinder takes a big gouge out of the
> > surrounding plastic.
> > --
> > 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
> > Raleigh, NC
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
 
Ken,

IIRC the screws are 6/32.

If you spray them with Kroil a few times and let them sit you might be able
to get them out. Before you re-install them run a tap down through them. Use
S/S screws and a bit of anti-seize on them.

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Ken
Burton
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 9:32 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] I'm a little confused.

13 years ago I bought all new LED clearance lights. Well two days go I
started replacing the rear rusted in original clearance lights. I had a
planed to fiber glass in speed nuts to reinforce the threaded mounting
areas. I have never had these off before and when I removed the first one I
found Netserts (Rivnuts) holding it in place. Obviously a PO had been in
there before as the nuts were epoxied in place. They spun and broke loose
from the epoxy. So I had to repair them. I pulled up the loose nuts and
and rolled a thin bead of plumber's epoxy putty and place it underneath
them. Then I flattened them back flush with a hammer. This stuff sets up
in 6 minutes and is fully hard in 4 hours. About 1 hour later I mixed up
some JB Weld and put it around the edge of the Rivnut for additional
strength. Those things are really in there now.

So I moved on to the second one. After removing it I was surprised to also
find the same kind of Rivnuts. I removed the third and it is the same
way. The second and third were obviously OEM.

So now I'm asking why people were in previous postings well nuts to install
clearance lights? What was wrong with the original Rivnuts (Nutserts)?

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Ken,
>
> IIRC the screws are 6/32.
>
> If you spray them with Kroil a few times and let them sit you might be able
> to get them out. Before you re-install them run a tap down through them. Use
> S/S screws and a bit of anti-seize on them.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> USAussie - Downunder
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

On my center rear light which a PO must have previously attacke,d there were 10-24 stainless screws. On the other two that I have already done there
were 6-32's about 1.25" long. I loosen and removed the rusted ones with Kroil and vice grips. With the new lights I replaced them all with new
stainless screws and anti-seize. I was going to go back this evening and do the last two but we are do to get up to 6" of rain tonight and I think
I'll just stay home.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
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