OK, regarding adjustments...again to clarify, has it ever run properly with the rebuilt carb since you put it back in? If so it probably isn't the
adjustments, its probably something gummed up.
You might get away with putting some fresh gas along with a god carb cleaner i[I like sea foam or B12]n the bowl and letting it sit. If the carbi is
off, soak it in a bucket of fresh gas and carb cleaner overnight. Keep it outside, covered and away from heart or spark. Beyond that, it needs to come
apart
To start, the carb only needs fuel in the bowl at the ripper level, the choke on, and the idle circuit functioning
Rotate the choke housing in the direction that closes the choke to almost closed initially. The choke increases the vac signal to the idle circuit to
enriched it. There is a high idle screw for the choke linkage that bumps up the idle on chock
The throttle blades have to be slightly open to idle, unless your qjet happens to have 2 holes int the primaries
Did you determine if the idle mixture screws are exposed at the base? If you want riot to be and it isn't, if you remove the carb, you can remove the
plugs by drilling the plug and inserting a Self tapping [not self drilling] screw to pull them, or cutting shallow Vs under each and knocking out with
a punch. You will find the screws have oddball heads, usually oblong. They do make a flexible tool for this but you will be better off long term to
epoxy some extensions to these where they are easier to see, with a hex head screw
A good starting point is 2 turns out from lightly seated. Caution: the threads are fairly robust, but the tips deform if you over tighten them
James is right about checking the ignition. I would start by making sure the cent fugal advance wts and springs are not stuck, and then check initial
timing with a dial back to zero timing light. anything in the 6-10 degree area should start
--
76 Glenbrook
