GMCnetters;
Please read carefully all the way through a couple of times well before
hand. Look at your setup as you read these directions and it will become
clear. Get everything you need first and it will go quickly (2-4hours). This
procedure worked for me but do this at your own risk (you know the legal
stuff)
Parts needed:
Steering Box NAPA ($175 + $160 core P/N 27-7519)
Pitman Arm Puller. This is a must have and really works slick ($9.99 P/N
2990068 Princess Auto 1-888-460-7989 or elsewhere)
Flare Nut Wrenches ($11.99 P/N 2922839 Princess Auto or Sears or ...)
1 5/16" Socket (Set of 8 - 3/4 drive - impact sockets $29.99 P/N 3414760
Princess Auto)
Breaker or large ratchet for above (anywhere)
Normal Screw drivers, etc.
Drain pan and shop towels
2 quarts hi temp Power Steering Fluid.
Handy Tips to know before you start (or things I wished someone whould have
told me so I'd have known):
1. I found that I wished I have flushed the system before changing the box
to make it easier. That old PS fluid was pretty nasty and shouldn't be in
your new pump! I left the procedure as I really did it. Do it like this tip
first and you'll be glad you did.
Just unhook the return line from the Windshield Wiper Motor (right side
3/8" rubber line that goes back to pump), add a 6" length of 3/8" hose to
it. Hose clamp it on and place open end of new hose in a gallon jug below
it. Fill PS pump w/new fluid. Idle engine for 10-15 sec to pump though
fluid. Shut off engine and fill pump, repeat till fluid coming out of line
is clean and clear (about 1 qt). (Note: I didn't try just putting the loose
end of the old return line to the pump in a jug of new fluid to see if it
would self fill the pump w/suction but I'll bet this would work pretty
slick! Let me know on this one).
2. Good time to change the rubber boot on the Steering Shaft CV if needed,
which mine did (Golby has these $11). If needed remove pinch bolt on CV
joint (completely, thank you), mark the position so you get it on the same,
remove from splines to change boot. Clean CV joint well and lube. Install
new boot and tie wrap. Check position and reinstall on splines with pinch
bolt.
3. While you have the bottom part of the Steering Shaft out clean the top
blue (Teflon coated) splines of old hard grease and dirt as well as the
lower coupler with the zerk on it. Be careful of the old cork dust seal as
it's brittle. Be sure the blue shaft spines allow the bottom coupler to
freely move up and down or this will bind and cause problems. I had to file
mine a bit and sand paper (very lightly) to get it to free up. Lube (grease)
well and you're in business. Thank Jim Bounds for this tip! Also I see
Caspro's catalog has a nifty rubber boot as a dust seal to cover that whole
area on their replacement. Don't know if the sell these alone but I wish I'd
have had one of those.
4. Didn't change my lines as the NAPA instructions recommended but would be
a good time to do this if they are hard and you're ambitious.
5. When you finally install the box, just loosely install the four bolts
THEN add the steering shaft to the splines on top since it slides up and
down. You do have to align it properly so the pinch bolt will fit in it's
groove on the spines. I'll bet this will save a lot of grunting and groaning
the way I did it below.
6. Tighten all bolts to torque specs in manual.
Removal Procedure (how I did it):
Didn't need to jack it up as there is plenty of room but you can to make
more.
Remove the Pitman arm nut and washer.
Use the manditory puller to remove Pitman arm. Don't try to use a pickle
fork, please.
Remove pump hydraulic lines with flare wrenches. Drain lines.
Remove pinch bolt (completely) on steering shaft and remove
Remove four bolts holding steering box to frame.
Remove steering box. Should slide out with bottom half of steering shaft
attached. If not remove steering shaft from splines. My shaft was almost
like it was glued together and would not slide (see above).
Flush lines with new fluid to remove old fluid. (forget this if you read the
tip above).
Clean blue splines and lube (see above)
If needed... Change rubber boot on Steering Shaft as mentioned.
Installation Procedure:
While steering box is still out line up splines and install lower Steering
Arm coupler to steering box with pinch bolt and tighten.
With top half of (blue) Steering Shaft in place, lift box, line up shaft and
coupler so they start to slide together and install one bolt to hold box to
frame (see grunting and groaning above).
Install other three bolts and tighten all.
Install and tighten hydraulic lines (with flare nut wrenches). I had to hold
my mouth just right... to get one of them on!
Install Pitman Arm with washer and nut. Tighten to specs.
Grease steering shaft at zerk.
Fill pump. Idle engine a few sec and shut off. Refill pump. Idle engine and
turn wheels stop to stop. Stop engine and check pump level. Add if needed.
Check for leaks or binds and if wipers work OK.
Test drive.
Recheck for leaks and pump level.
Congratulations! Bet she steers like a new coach. Mine sure did! Hope you're
as happy with your results as I am with mine.
PS. Later that day I removed the wire screen filter at the brass feed line
of the Wiper Motor and added a small, external HD magnetic transmission
filter to the other line (WIX P/N 58964). It's a round black aluminum
cylinder, ribbed, about 2" dia. about 3" long w/a 3/8" barb hose fitting on
each end. Added it to the line out. Thats the same return line from the
wiper motor to PS pump where you flushed before. Just added it for safety
and peace of mind. It was $15 and came with everything needed (lines, clamps
and filter). Most any auto store should have something like it. Also this
helped my wipers work better!
Best of luck on this (hopefully now, not quite so hard) weekend project.
Nate '75GB Omaha
Please read carefully all the way through a couple of times well before
hand. Look at your setup as you read these directions and it will become
clear. Get everything you need first and it will go quickly (2-4hours). This
procedure worked for me but do this at your own risk (you know the legal
stuff)
Parts needed:
Steering Box NAPA ($175 + $160 core P/N 27-7519)
Pitman Arm Puller. This is a must have and really works slick ($9.99 P/N
2990068 Princess Auto 1-888-460-7989 or elsewhere)
Flare Nut Wrenches ($11.99 P/N 2922839 Princess Auto or Sears or ...)
1 5/16" Socket (Set of 8 - 3/4 drive - impact sockets $29.99 P/N 3414760
Princess Auto)
Breaker or large ratchet for above (anywhere)
Normal Screw drivers, etc.
Drain pan and shop towels
2 quarts hi temp Power Steering Fluid.
Handy Tips to know before you start (or things I wished someone whould have
told me so I'd have known):
1. I found that I wished I have flushed the system before changing the box
to make it easier. That old PS fluid was pretty nasty and shouldn't be in
your new pump! I left the procedure as I really did it. Do it like this tip
first and you'll be glad you did.
Just unhook the return line from the Windshield Wiper Motor (right side
3/8" rubber line that goes back to pump), add a 6" length of 3/8" hose to
it. Hose clamp it on and place open end of new hose in a gallon jug below
it. Fill PS pump w/new fluid. Idle engine for 10-15 sec to pump though
fluid. Shut off engine and fill pump, repeat till fluid coming out of line
is clean and clear (about 1 qt). (Note: I didn't try just putting the loose
end of the old return line to the pump in a jug of new fluid to see if it
would self fill the pump w/suction but I'll bet this would work pretty
slick! Let me know on this one).
2. Good time to change the rubber boot on the Steering Shaft CV if needed,
which mine did (Golby has these $11). If needed remove pinch bolt on CV
joint (completely, thank you), mark the position so you get it on the same,
remove from splines to change boot. Clean CV joint well and lube. Install
new boot and tie wrap. Check position and reinstall on splines with pinch
bolt.
3. While you have the bottom part of the Steering Shaft out clean the top
blue (Teflon coated) splines of old hard grease and dirt as well as the
lower coupler with the zerk on it. Be careful of the old cork dust seal as
it's brittle. Be sure the blue shaft spines allow the bottom coupler to
freely move up and down or this will bind and cause problems. I had to file
mine a bit and sand paper (very lightly) to get it to free up. Lube (grease)
well and you're in business. Thank Jim Bounds for this tip! Also I see
Caspro's catalog has a nifty rubber boot as a dust seal to cover that whole
area on their replacement. Don't know if the sell these alone but I wish I'd
have had one of those.
4. Didn't change my lines as the NAPA instructions recommended but would be
a good time to do this if they are hard and you're ambitious.
5. When you finally install the box, just loosely install the four bolts
THEN add the steering shaft to the splines on top since it slides up and
down. You do have to align it properly so the pinch bolt will fit in it's
groove on the spines. I'll bet this will save a lot of grunting and groaning
the way I did it below.
6. Tighten all bolts to torque specs in manual.
Removal Procedure (how I did it):
Didn't need to jack it up as there is plenty of room but you can to make
more.
Remove the Pitman arm nut and washer.
Use the manditory puller to remove Pitman arm. Don't try to use a pickle
fork, please.
Remove pump hydraulic lines with flare wrenches. Drain lines.
Remove pinch bolt (completely) on steering shaft and remove
Remove four bolts holding steering box to frame.
Remove steering box. Should slide out with bottom half of steering shaft
attached. If not remove steering shaft from splines. My shaft was almost
like it was glued together and would not slide (see above).
Flush lines with new fluid to remove old fluid. (forget this if you read the
tip above).
Clean blue splines and lube (see above)
If needed... Change rubber boot on Steering Shaft as mentioned.
Installation Procedure:
While steering box is still out line up splines and install lower Steering
Arm coupler to steering box with pinch bolt and tighten.
With top half of (blue) Steering Shaft in place, lift box, line up shaft and
coupler so they start to slide together and install one bolt to hold box to
frame (see grunting and groaning above).
Install other three bolts and tighten all.
Install and tighten hydraulic lines (with flare nut wrenches). I had to hold
my mouth just right... to get one of them on!
Install Pitman Arm with washer and nut. Tighten to specs.
Grease steering shaft at zerk.
Fill pump. Idle engine a few sec and shut off. Refill pump. Idle engine and
turn wheels stop to stop. Stop engine and check pump level. Add if needed.
Check for leaks or binds and if wipers work OK.
Test drive.
Recheck for leaks and pump level.
Congratulations! Bet she steers like a new coach. Mine sure did! Hope you're
as happy with your results as I am with mine.
PS. Later that day I removed the wire screen filter at the brass feed line
of the Wiper Motor and added a small, external HD magnetic transmission
filter to the other line (WIX P/N 58964). It's a round black aluminum
cylinder, ribbed, about 2" dia. about 3" long w/a 3/8" barb hose fitting on
each end. Added it to the line out. Thats the same return line from the
wiper motor to PS pump where you flushed before. Just added it for safety
and peace of mind. It was $15 and came with everything needed (lines, clamps
and filter). Most any auto store should have something like it. Also this
helped my wipers work better!
Best of luck on this (hopefully now, not quite so hard) weekend project.
Nate '75GB Omaha
