Houston Torsion Bar Story

[tmaki1]

Greetings all!

In case anyone is interested, I've posted my experiences with the
holiday trip to Houston and the failure and repair of the torsion bar
that so many of you helped with.

It's on my Web page:

http://www.pe.net/~tmaki/

On the nav bar click on "GMC Stuff" and then "Glacier Crosses
Southwest Desert".

In the write-up I included the procedure for changing the torsion bar.
I tried to be as inclusive as possible, so if anyone has more or
different information, please let me know.

I've also included a discussion of my experience with the
supplemental vacuum pump for the brake booster. I haven't
installed it yet; this is just my experiences finding the right
component and checking it out.

A lot of what I've got is pretty likely boring to the old timers, but folks
of other background and experiences frequent my page, so
apologies in advance for not having anything exciting or new for the
cognoscenti.

Again, my deepest thanks to everyone who helped either directly or
only with your sympathy in getting out of a potentially critical jam.

Later!

Toby Maki
73 Glacier 230

 

[chuck blanford]

Great stuff, Toby!

Thanks for taking the time to capture and share!

Chuck
77 Kingsley
North Idaho

>It's on my Web page:
>
>http://www.pe.net/~tmaki/
>
>On the nav bar click on "GMC Stuff" and then "Glacier Crosses
>Southwest Desert".
>
>In the write-up I included the procedure for changing the torsion bar.
>I tried to be as inclusive as possible, so if anyone has more or
>different information, please let me know.
>
>I've also included a discussion of my experience with the
>supplemental vacuum pump for the brake booster. I haven't
>installed it yet; this is just my experiences finding the right
>component and checking it out.
>
>Toby Maki
>73 Glacier 230
>

 

[gene]

Reminds me, did we ever find there was a U bolt that would work with the
puller to do this job ???

gene

>In a message dated 1/4/2000 4:50:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, tmaki
>writes:
>
>> http://www.pe.net/~tmaki/
>
>Hi Toby!
>Very nice explanation of your torsion bar replacement. My Motors Labor rate
>book says it should take 1.7 hrs to replace one and 2.4 for two on the Olds
>Toro. Your whole website is very interesting and enjoyable to read. You
>have a good flair for telling good stories. Also, I was wondering if you
>were able to read the picture I took of the page in the service manual on
the
>torsion bar, I e-mailed you?
>
>Scott NEHODA'S
>BACK YARD
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/

 

[tmaki1]

Scott,

Absolutely! It was perfect. Funnily enough, I have three service
manuals for the GMC. One is in sections in a binder, and I took that
one with me. Unfortunately, the section dealing with the front
suspension isn't in the binder. So your copy of that page was a
Godsend. Thanks!

TM

>I was wondering if you
> were able to read the picture I took of the page in the service manual on the
> torsion bar, I e-mailed you?

 

[tmaki1]

Gene,

Good question, and it's got to be possible. I'm certainly wondering
after having done this, that there has to be an easier and less
expensive way than the special tool.

The tool that Shane and I used was made up of the bar from an
OTC 927 and another bar of steel with holes, etc. and the
necessary bolts.

Seems like the OTC 927 bar could be fitted with the contraption I've
got running around in my head to be able to use a very small
hydraulic jack and the proper fitting on the top to go into the pork
chop dimple. A special, dedicated tool seems like expensive
overkill, when something made of pieces used for other jobs could
be rigged up and possibly work even better with less effort. Just a
thought that came to me on the trip back over those miles and miles
of miles and miles in Texas. (Certainly not an original thought, I'm
sure.)

I'm going to sketch something out on paper, and look around at
Harbor Freight here in town and the swap meets and see what I can
come up with.

Or the U-bolt would be good. Just have to find one. (Actually, have
to start looking for one.) Gotta be a way . . . .

Toby Maki

>
> Reminds me, did we ever find there was a U bolt that would work with the
> puller to do this job ???
>
> gene
>

> >In a message dated 1/4/2000 4:50:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, tmaki
> >writes:
> >
> >> http://www.pe.net/~tmaki/
> >
> >Hi Toby!
> >Very nice explanation of your torsion bar replacement. My Motors Labor rate
> >book says it should take 1.7 hrs to replace one and 2.4 for two on the Olds
> >Toro. Your whole website is very interesting and enjoyable to read. You
> >have a good flair for telling good stories. Also, I was wondering if you
> >were able to read the picture I took of the page in the service manual on
> the
> >torsion bar, I e-mailed you?
> >
> >Scott NEHODA'S
> >BACK YARD
> >
> Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
> GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
> mr.erf
> http://www.california.com/~eagle/
>

 

[philip l. stewart]

> Reminds me, did we ever find there was a U bolt that would work with the
> puller to do this job ???
> mr.erf
> http://www.california.com/~eagle/

Gene,
I'm glad you reminded me. When I removed the torsion bars while working on the
lower control arms, I was able to use the OTC 927 puller and a U-bolt that I got
fabricated. The bolt was made for me by a shop in Chattanooga that as far as I
could tell specializes in just servicing leaf springs and other suspension parts
for heavy duty trucks. I'm talking about dump trucks, Peterbilts,, Macs, school
busses, etc. (you get the idea.) I think these bolts are also call "shackle
bolts" and they are used to bolt the leaf springs to axles. When I went to the
shop and described what I was trying to do they only asked what size did I
needed. I was expecting that the bolts came in stock sizes and I would have to
pick one that best fit my need. But instead they had a forming machine that
would bend pre threaded bar to about any width or length I needed. What I got
was made from 1/2 inch rod. It has fine threads on the end and came with large
long nuts and heavy thick washers.. They said it was made from high strength
which met DOT standards and I didn't need worry about it breaking with the
puller I showed them. The machine they had would bend the the bolt with either
a U shape or flat (straight) throat section between the legs. I chose the
straight section which I believe fits across the top of the cross member better.
The distance between the legs of the bolt measures 3-5/8 inch and the length of
the legs from the bottom of the U to the end of the legs is 9 inches . If I
were getting another one made I would ask for legs 10 inches long which will make
easier the assembly of the OTC parts around the cross member and the pork chop.
One other feature I got the shop to add to my U-bolt is a 3/8 inch hex head nut
that is tack welded to the center of the throat section. This fits into the hole
in the top the cross member and keeps the bolt from slipping along the member
when pork chop is being adjusted. I also found Rick's (or was it Steve's)
suggestion useful to clamp to the cross member a couple of vise grip pliers on
either side of the U-bolt to help steady things when loading or unloading the
torsion bar. This tool worked wonderfully for me and the best part was the shop
only charged $5.00 to make the U-bolt. I was expecting to pay much more, but they
didn't spend more than 5 minutes making it for me either. I recommend that
others looking for a U-bolt to go look in the Yellow Pages for truck spring
repair shops and hopefully they will find just what they need there. Be sure to
take along the OTC927 to help explain what you trying to do.
Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode,TN

 

[cbwood]

>I've also included a discussion of my experience with the
>supplemental vacuum pump for the brake booster. I haven't
>installed it yet; this is just my experiences finding the right
>component and checking it out.
>
>Toby Maki

FWIW..
Also, gene's site has the info for source for NEW pumps...http://www.california.com/~eagle/ (Index, brakes, Second source pump, at bottom of article)
I found it from the local AC/Delco dealer for around $127..the pump# is AC215-119

Thankx

CBWood
77 Kingsley
MWC OK
(on 'Digest' now)

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