hot water tanks

michael wilhelm

New member
Dec 25, 2005
834
0
0
I have a question for anyone who has changed out the electric water heater
in a r-side wet bath GMC for a gas water heater, ('76 Elle II). Does both
the Suburban and the Atwood have a full size access door, and does it
require cutting through the beltline and black rub strip to install?
I love the electric heater, especially when it boils over and soaks the
front right side tire with steam, and, when I'm dry camping, (it's loads of
fun to run the generator for hours, just for hot water).
Cutting the beltline and placing a big ugly door through it doesn't exactly
appeal to me either.
As with all my projects, I'm creating a giant dillema before I even start,
just to make it interesting, I guess.
Any and all ideas are surely welcome. Thanks in advance.
Michael "who could never seem to keep anything simple" Wilhelm

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Hi,
I put my Suburban under the sink in the galley. The bottom of the cut for
the opening was a couple of inches above the floor. Lots of space. No need
to cut through the beltline for the install.

Thanks,
Gary in Anza, CA
23 ft Glacier 1973 #514
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wilhelm"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:59 AM
Subject: [gmclist] hot water tanks

> I have a question for anyone who has changed out the electric water heater
> in a r-side wet bath GMC for a gas water heater, ('76 Elle II). Does both
> the Suburban and the Atwood have a full size access door, and does it
> require cutting through the beltline and black rub strip to install?
> I love the electric heater, especially when it boils over and soaks the
> front right side tire with steam, and, when I'm dry camping, (it's loads
of
> fun to run the generator for hours, just for hot water).
> Cutting the beltline and placing a big ugly door through it doesn't
exactly
> appeal to me either.
> As with all my projects, I'm creating a giant dillema before I even start,
> just to make it interesting, I guess.
> Any and all ideas are surely welcome. Thanks in advance.
> Michael "who could never seem to keep anything simple" Wilhelm
>
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to
mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
>

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
""I love the electric heater, especially when it boils over and soaks the
front right side tire with steam, and, when I'm dry camping, (it's loads of
fun to run the generator for hours, just for hot water).
Cutting the beltline and placing a big ugly door through it doesn't exactly
appeal to me either.""

Hi Michael The GMC is unique in that it doesn't have access doors all over the place (esp with the GM interiors), and that's one of the reasons it uses electric hot water heaters and reefers. I've been living with the electric hot water heater since I've owned it for over 10 years and find it pretty acceptable. It shouldn't boil over (either your thermostat is set too high, or your relief valve activates a bit too low. Also. I find I can "recharge" the hot water in a half hour or less of gen operation. Although I like gas hot water heaters, the added access door is a big step to take if you care about that kind of stuff.

--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Thanks for the input Gary, unfortunately, the furnace already resides there,
which I'm also replacing. (a Sol Aire, that exploded). Michael

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
> 1:Does both
> the Suburban and the Atwood have a full size access door, and does it
> require cutting through the beltline and black rub strip to install?
>
> 2:I love the electric heater, especially when it boils over and soaks the
> front right side tire with steam, and, when I'm dry camping, (it's loads of
> fun to run the generator for hours, just for hot water).


On Question 1, I looked at Denny Allen's coach and he had put an Atwood propane HWH in by cutting the outside door down so he could put most of the heater above the center parting strip, but about 3 inches below the strip. He must have installed it from the inside of the coach. He said the disadvantage was the difficulty of venting of the heavier propane in case of a leak.

He may have some ideas on this, if he likes the idea or not, now that he has done it. He may respond if he is at home.

On Question 2: I replaced the standard 1000 watt electric water heating element with a 2000 watt one. On my coach the original wire to the HWH was a #12 so it can take the larger load and still be code legal. I think some coaches have #14 wire so the largest element you could put in would be a 1500 watt one.

At any rate, with the 2000 watt element I can heat the tank from cold to hot in about 15 minutes or less, depending on the incoming water temp. Not necessary to run the generator for "hours" to heat water at all. My PD 9160 charges the batteries at the same time. I can get away with about one hour of generator time a day when dry camping...and I have the original Norcold all electric refrigerator too.

--
Rob Allen
'76 x-PB

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Hi Michael

I would not cut through the beltline. That is a major structural member
in the GMC, Probably the heaviest member in the coach body.

I have not checked the measurements but it might be possible to put in a
low profile suburban furnace and still have room above the furnace and
below the beltline for a water heater. If you want to know for sure I
can make measurements since I have a furnace and hot water heater
sitting here waiting to be installed

Dan & Carol Winchester
78 Royal
Portland, OR
gmc.dwinchester.com


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Wilhelm [mailto:msnicklefritz]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:59 AM
> To: d.l.winchester
> Subject: [gmclist] hot water tanks
>
> I have a question for anyone who has changed out the electric water
heater
> in a r-side wet bath GMC for a gas water heater, ('76 Elle II). Does
both
> the Suburban and the Atwood have a full size access door, and does it
> require cutting through the beltline and black rub strip to install?
> I love the electric heater, especially when it boils over and soaks
the
> front right side tire with steam, and, when I'm dry camping, (it's
loads
> of
> fun to run the generator for hours, just for hot water).
> Cutting the beltline and placing a big ugly door through it doesn't
> exactly
> appeal to me either.
> As with all my projects, I'm creating a giant dillema before I even
start,
> just to make it interesting, I guess.
> Any and all ideas are surely welcome. Thanks in advance.
> Michael "who could never seem to keep anything simple" Wilhelm
>
>
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-
> gmclist
>

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Thanks Bob, I honestly didn't know how long it took to reheat the electric
tank with the generator, because I never paid enough attention. A half
hour's actually pretty acceptable, and unless there's a way of not cutting
the beltline, I'll stick with the electric. Maybe I could hop it up with a
2,000 watt element. Take care, Michael

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
15 minutes with the electric, shoot, it takes the gas that long. Now I know
I'm gonna get a 2,000 watt element, and maybe rewire the tank with # 10.
Thanks Rob, Michael

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Of course, we're dealing with a relatively warm climate, and boondocking
(Navy showers), but our water heater needs only 5 mins for acceptable heat.

Usually, I "pre-warm" the heater on shore power before we leave, and that'll
give 2 showers the same day.

What ours *won't* do is keep up with 5 or 6 people showering, running water
continuously, hooked up to city water. But if you stop water flow while
lathering, it seems to go forever.

Our element is over 15 years old, and actually draws just over 1 kva.

The thermostat stuck once, prolly over two years ago, and the thing steamed
when opening a faucet. Benign neglect won again; I just turned it off, it
unstuck, and worked ever since. (Uh-oh, watch out this weekend.)

After all that, even though we're among the best candidates for gas water
heater and fridge (almost always boondocking) I wouldn't dream of replacing
either.

Walt Taylor
Elroy, TX
'75 Eleganza, '75 Transmode

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wilhelm"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [gmclist] hot water tanks

> Thanks Bob, I honestly didn't know how long it took to reheat the electric
> tank with the generator, because I never paid enough attention. A half
> hour's actually pretty acceptable, and unless there's a way of not cutting
> the beltline, I'll stick with the electric. Maybe I could hop it up with a
> 2,000 watt element. Take care, Michael

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.14/128 - Release Date: 10/10/2005

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
I had a friend that owned a '62 Cortez with the electric water heater
and the engine heat exchanger. The family was 3 with a wife and pre-teen
daughter so showers were considered very important. When we dry-camped
together, I noticed they would start the coach engine for between 15 and
30 minutes every morning. I found out that enabled them to have at least
warm showers. That run time also brought the batteries up. You can add
my name to the list of people who don't like the look of water heater
doors.

Big Jim=20

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Wilhelm [mailto:msnicklefritz]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:14 PM
> To: Ulmer, James D - Denver, CO
> Subject: Re: [gmclist] hot water tanks
>=20
> Thanks Bob, I honestly didn't know how long it took to reheat the
electric
> tank with the generator, because I never paid enough attention. A half
> hour's actually pretty acceptable, and unless there's a way of not
cutting
> the beltline, I'll stick with the electric. Maybe I could hop it up
with a
> 2,000 watt element. Take care, Michael
>=20
>=20
> ---
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-
> gmclist

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist=
t.org
 
> I replaced
> mine with a 5500w 220v element. When I run it at 110v it consumes 1375w and
> 12.5 amps. It recovers in less than 1/2 hour.
>
> Dave
> Ann Arbor, MI.
> 73 Sequoia


I agree with Dave's thoughts and calculations. I had no problem finding both 1500 watt and 2000 watt 120 volt heater elements here, but Dave's use of 240 volt ones is another plan. I got mine at an ACE hardware store as I remember.
--
Rob Allen
'76 x-PB

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
Thanks Walt, I think I'm convinced. Makes it a lot easier not having to
think about all the adapting for the gas unit. Michael

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist
 
WOW... thanks Dave, I'm already convinced to keep the electric. It'll save
me $, and, what little hair I have, not having to pull it out. Michael

---
To unsubscribe send a blank email to mailto:unsubscribe-gmclist