Hitch rack and rear window screws

[Keith V]

I think what you want is not an attachment to the body but stabilizers to the frame. It's fairly easy to build supports going to the frame from the bottom to the frame.
Like Ken says, the body is not where to find reinforcments

Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View MN
76 exRoyale
MicroLevelhttp://www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com/vasilakes/microlevel_intro.pdf

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Rob via Gmclist
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 8:55 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Rob
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Hitch rack and rear window screws

I regularly run with either a 375 lb scooter or a 60" wide cargo rack
(sometimes with random crap on it, up to about 275lbs?). In both cases -
the rack connects to my under bumper 2" receiver. I use a square U bolt
to help reduce "wobble". About two years ago we re-positioned the
receiver - it had a definite downward tilt and fixing that helped with
clearance in & out of driveways...

I only strap the loads down to the racks - I've never strapped to
anything on the bumper or frame. I've done 5000+ miles with the scooter
back there.

When I've got the scooter on - I *definitely* feel the weight hanging
off the back! I always like the handling improvement when I have
nothing back there...

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

> Great info on the body/frame relationship.
> THe problem i am trying to solve is to have convenient reliable tie down for a random pile of crap. A rack that is purpose built for something like a
> motorcycle is pretty straight forward.
>
>
> I want straps coming down from the top for the more random load- bike, folding chairs, a second spare, a wicker love seat that somebody "had to have"
>
>
> So are you saying that if i tap the skin to get to the stringer i will have the frame flexing independent of the skin and maybe elongate the holes and
> create cracks?
>
> Well, just another engineering problem to solve- i'll figure it out.
>
> The current challenge is knowing exactly where the stringer is and how thick is the material.

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[dave silva]

> I think what you want is not an attachment to the body but stabilizers to the frame. It's fairly easy to build supports going to the frame from
> the bottom to the frame.
> Like Ken says, the body is not where to find reinforcments

Nope, i really do want to attach to the body up high to facilitate efficient tie-down. Stabilizing the load from the bottom is easy. but holding it
on is trickier.

THis can't be that difficult, we already have a ladder and a roof rack.
--
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC

74 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff

 

[dave stragand1]

Can you attach some sturdy uprights directly to the carrier?

>

>> I think what you want is not an attachment to the body but stabilizers to the frame. It's fairly easy to build supports going to the frame from
>> the bottom to the frame.
>> Like Ken says, the body is not where to find reinforcments
>
> Nope, i really do want to attach to the body up high to facilitate efficient tie-down. Stabilizing the load from the bottom is easy. but holding it
> on is trickier.
>
> THis can't be that difficult, we already have a ladder and a roof rack.
> --
> Dave & Ellen Silva
> Hertford, NC
>
> 74 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
>
>
>
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[Ken B]

That body to frame movement is not much but I wanted you to consider it and try to use something frame or bumper mounted. On the few times I have
used a tray for other things instead of the motorcycle carrier, I just tied everything to the tray. I tie and motorcycles to the frame as a safety in
case the ties to the carrier should come loose or break. I would hate see my 350 to 450 motorcycle fall off of the rack. I also do not think the
vehicle following me would like either.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[douglas smith]

Dave,
I'm a lurker and really have no business posting since I have no real expertise.
Having said that...

I've read multiple people try to dissuade you from trying a high tiedown point and I pretty much agree with their counsel.
Having said that...
I understand that the skin was bonded with an adhesive to the aluminum frame. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

What if you were to fabricate two, say two-foot aluminum straps from, say 1/8 by 1" and make them conform to the roof curve and terminate where you
could hook load straps to them. Epoxy them to the roof and to combat vibration, screw them to the aluminum frame if you can find it or just through
the body if you must. The idea being to spread the load from individual load carriers to the entire roof structure. This provide you with
points which are safe for the structure and, if lightly loaded, insurance for your load.

Just an idea from a theatre guy, not an actual suggestion.
I invite the smart guys to point out the flaws in this idea. I have no experience here.
Good luck.
Doug

--
Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels(finally!)/Sundry other

 

[marsh wilkes]

Hi Dave,

I have a coach body with no interior, windows or hatch door, I can easily
see the correct attachment points for upper
stabilizing cables, which you do need. I have experience with building
sizable covered box type receiver carriers for a
Grand Cherokee, one has it's own tail lights and tag mount. If You would
like to discuss it give me a call, I may not answer
until I figure out it's you by your location, I would then call back.
295-5997

Marsh (rarely post now days) Wilkes
Perry Florida

----Original Message-----
From: dave silva via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 8:03 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: dave silva
Subject: [GMCnet] Hitch rack and rear window screws

Planning to make the coach a Vacation cruiser with no toad.

So i'm looking for a 72" hitch basket for the bikes and the Blackstone. 60"
are cheap and plentiful but that extra foot is harder to find, might
have to get it fabricated.

I'm also looking at the massive phillips head screws that hold in the rear
panel - how thick is the aluminum on the other side?

I'm thinking i could replace the screws with tiedown eyes, they would still
hold the panel in but also give me something to attach to.

The outer ones would have a cable/turnbuckle to stabilize the hitch basket
and the middle ones would take tie downs to hold the load.

Any fatal flaw in this plan?
--
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC

74 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff

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[dave silva]

> I've read multiple people try to dissuade you from trying a high tiedown point and I pretty much agree with their counsel.
> Having said that...
> I understand that the skin was bonded with an adhesive to the aluminum frame. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I don't really care that an army of people think it's a bad idea. I am not discounting their wisdom, i'm just trying to learn how thick the stringer
is.

Once i have that i can determine with some accuracy how much i can load it. I'm a technical photographer for a team of engineers and we work on
failure analysis and airworthiness. They can do this in their sleep.

Here's the end game- a 7 foot by 30" hitch basket stacked with five bikes, one of which is a tandem. We'll also have a blackstone, a 20 lb bbq
bottle, and maybe a jerry can and maybe a 2nd spare tire.

most of that will be held fast to the basket but some straps coming down from the roof will do the job of holding the big stuff upright and close to
the rear of the coach.

My hunch is they will be good for at least 100 lb each and that will be more than sufficient for four or five straps.

I think it might be as simple as cutting them out of aluminum plate and putting them under the roof rack, which i assume is screwed into the stringer.

--
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC

74 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff

 

[dave silva]

> Hi Dave,
>
> I have a coach body with no interior, windows or hatch door, I can easily
> see the correct attachment points for upper
> stabilizing cables, which you do need. I have experience with building
> sizable covered box type receiver carriers for a
> Grand Cherokee, one has it's own tail lights and tag mount. If You would
> like to discuss it give me a call, I may not answer
> until I figure out it's you by your location, I would then call back.
> 295-5997
>
> Marsh (rarely post now days) Wilkes
> Perry Florida

THat would be wonderful. i will call you later this week when i have some specific questions.

I am also working on hanging a bunk over the dinette. My ceiling has been recovered with carpet so i'm struggling to locate those stringers as well.

It would be done just like the GMC hanging bunk- some hardware against the left wall over the dinette and hardware in the overhead. The bunk would be
a simple fabric on frame with stainless steel cable so it can be easily deployed.

thanks

--
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC

74 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff

 

[LarryW]

[/quote]

THat would be wonderful. i will call you later this week when i have some specific questions.

I am also working on hanging a bunk over the dinette. My ceiling has been recovered with carpet so i'm struggling to locate those stringers as well.

It would be done just like the GMC hanging bunk- some hardware against the left wall over the dinette and hardware in the overhead. The bunk would be
a simple fabric on frame with stainless steel cable so it can be easily deployed.

thanks
[/quote]
After I put my ceiling back up, I too had initial trouble locating the stingers. Finally settled on using a sharp narrow ice pick. Just poked through
the Hulliner and underlay. Because it is carpet, the holes you make don't show or matter. Worked for me.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.