Hi-Torque Mini Starter

[robert smith]

Anybody out there using one of the Hi-torque Mini Starters? My stock starter is dragging - again - and was considering an upgrade. Have seen a note
next to some listed for 455CI Olds (Not Motor home or Toronado) not for FWD. Don't see any clearance issues and don't believe the block is any
different RWD vs. FWD.

Any help appreciated.

Bob

 

[Matt Colie]

> Anybody out there using one of the Hi-torque Mini Starters? My stock starter is dragging - again - and was considering an upgrade. Have seen a
> note next to some listed for 455CI Olds (Not Motor home or Toronado) not for FWD. Don't see any clearance issues and don't believe the block is any
> different RWD vs. FWD.
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Bob

Bob,

The Delco 10MT starter (what ours are just with a different nose casting than most) is a very durable unit. It can be completely rebuilt at very
nominal cost. If you have access to a lathe, you can do the job yourself and the first time won't even take very long. A more that complete parts
kit can be had from Ebay for 30$.

Somebody here did at least investigate installing one, but the price was something to behold.

Matt - I've done 4 of them
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Ken H.]

Bob,

I'm pretty sure you'll find that the reason for the "Not for MH..." note is
that the mini-starter you're considering is designed to mount on the LEFT
side of the engine, as in RWD vehicles, using vertical bolts. That
obviously won't work on the RIGHT side of a MH engine, using horizontal
bolts.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

> Anybody out there using one of the Hi-torque Mini Starters? My stock
> starter is dragging - again - and was considering an upgrade. Have seen a
> note
> next to some listed for 455CI Olds (Not Motor home or Toronado) not for
> FWD. Don't see any clearance issues and don't believe the block is any
> different RWD vs. FWD.
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Bob
>

 

[jim kanomata1]

Bob,
We requested to the manufacturer a slight change one customer requested,
now it works fine.
Must be for front wheel drive trans.

> Anybody out there using one of the Hi-torque Mini Starters? My stock
> starter is dragging - again - and was considering an upgrade. Have seen a
> note
> next to some listed for 455CI Olds (Not Motor home or Toronado) not for
> FWD. Don't see any clearance issues and don't believe the block is any
> different RWD vs. FWD.
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Bob
>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[johnny]

My experience has been, dragging is usually due to a worn front bushing, assuming proper connections. An easy cheap fix.

--johnny
--
'76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"The road goes on forever, and the party never ends" --Robert Earl Keen

 

[Jim Hupy]

Back in the early days of Olds V-8 engines (1949 - 1954) they had 6 volt
electrical systems. When they got warmed up, the starters would heat soak.
The electrical resistance would increase dramatically, they would crank
slower and with the additional resistance, the ignition spark would get
weaker. They would crank, but not start. In 1955, Olds went to a 12 volt
GENERATOR. They continued using the larger diameter battery cables used
with the 6 volt system for a couple more years until their stock of wire
harnesses and cables were used up. Then they changed over to harnesses and
cables that were one half the diameter of the 6 volt. That is essentially
the harness sizes that the GMC was originally fitted with. So much for the
history of GM wire harnesses. The starters still do not have shields to
protect the starter from exhaust heat, they still heat soak, and when the
harnesses degrade with age and heat, they still slow crank and no start.
All this puts more wear and tear on the bushings and brushes and pinion
gear and solenoid in the starter. The fix? Battery cables and chassis
grounds. Chase the harnesses from end to end, convert ignition systems to
electronic, GET RID OF THAT RESISTOR BURIED INSIDE THE ENGINE WIRE HARNESS,
keep your batteries in good shape and charged. All this does not cost very
much. But, if you really want your coach to start quickly, install fuel
injection. Day and night difference. It goes without saying much more, that
a good electrical tune up of the plugs and secondary wires, cap and rotor
helps a lot too.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Jan 25, 2017 4:40 PM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> My experience has been, dragging is usually due to a worn front bushing,
> assuming proper connections. An easy cheap fix.
>
> --johnny
> --
> '76 23' transmode Norris upfit, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and
> add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "The road goes on forever, and the party never ends" --Robert Earl Keen
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[david h. jarvis]

Is there a heat shield available for these engines?
Is the problem worse with headers?
How hard would it be to make a heat shield?

 

[emerystora]

I have had headers for many years. I also have never had any problems with my starter and heat.
What some might think is a heat problem is probably a battery cable to the starter problem or a ground problem.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Is there a heat shield available for these engines?
> Is the problem worse with headers?
> How hard would it be to make a heat shield?
>
>
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