Headliner

G

glyn or melrose trimble

New member
Oct 19, 1998
152
0
0
Hi,

Several of you at the Balloon Rally asked about our headliner work
and who did it. I promised to put it on the net..so here tis, although
a bit late.

His name is Chuck Bachman, sole owner and proprietor of his
company...also sole employee. He does all the work himself
and is a very skilled technician.

Chuck specializes in sunroof and headliner installations plus
related work activities. He does not work fast although very
thorough and very meticulous. He took about ten days to install our
headliner. (Along with other ongoing jobs on hand).

His company is called:

Oklahoma Sunroof
61st and 145th East Ave
Broken Arrow, OK
(918) 258-9311
jcb
 
>I have my front headliner down for refinishing. It was previously cover with
>fabric. I am going to check for leaks and install an antennae.
>Any more suggestions while I have it down and recommendations for a good
>white paint
>to do the plastic headliner.
>Gene

Gene,

If you haven't already run new speaker wire for your stereo I'd suggest
doing it now. It will be easier - but it's still possible when the liner
goes back up. Be careful about where you install an antenna - and the type.
Cell phone antennas for roof mounting generally need to be mounted on a
metal surface to provide the ground plane.

While you're there, you may want to consider adding ground wires for the
marker lights.

This is also a very good time to do your leak testing!

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Gene:

Are you aware of mar-hyde's (brand under Bondo's ownership) Bri-Top finish
material?? Available at Finishmaster, Pep Boys, etc.? No mixing involved,
goes on with a foam brush, dries quick, and cleanup is with water.

Paul Bartz

From: Henry Davis [mailto:hdavis]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:43 PM

I have my front headliner down for refinishing. It was previously cover with
fabric. I am going to check for leaks and install an antennae.
Any more suggestions while I have it down and recommendations for a good
white paint to do the plastic headliner.
Gene
Gene,
If you haven't already run new speaker wire for your stereo I'd suggest
doing it now. It will be easier - but it's still possible when the liner
goes back up. Be careful about where you install an antenna - and the type.
Cell phone antennas for roof mounting generally need to be mounted on a
metal surface to provide the ground plane.
While you're there, you may want to consider adding ground wires for the
marker lights.
This is also a very good time to do your leak testing!
 
Hi Gene,

Henry Davis had some good suggestions about prewiring. As to paint I
think you may want to dye the headliner. PPG (IIRC) has a prep wash and a
dye in all colors. Mine has held up quite well these past six years.

David Lee Greenberg F22009
GMC Motorhome Registry
200 MacFarlane Drive PH4
Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
NEXTEL Mobile: 561-262-0233
 
Gene

Find a Duron Paint Store and buy Plasti-coat. It can be put on with a roller
(check with the dealer for the right rolller). You may need to put on several
coats. Don't work in direct sunlight, it will dry too fast. Work out any runs
(quick). If you can use a spray gun, so much the better (maybe).

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia, Md

> I have my front headliner down for refinishing. It was previously cover with
> fabric. I am going to check for leaks and install an antennae.
> Any more suggestions while I have it down and recommendations for a good
> white paint
> to do the plastic headliner.
> Gene
> 73 Glacier
 
Gene C,

Do not use laquer thinner, it will eat the plastic! I assume you are
talking about removing the material from the front & rear caps, the fiber
panels should be replaced if you want a good looking finished job. I use
1/8" cabinet grade luan.

You can use mineral spirits, it will not attach the plastic. That,
scrapers & elbow grease will prevail!

Good Luck,

Jim Bounds
- ------------------

>Thanks for all of the suggestions about the headliner. Now how about some
>ideas
>for removing the glue that was used to hold the fabric. I have no idea what
>it was.
>Something that won't ruin the plastic.
>Gene C
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
 
I couldn't find the stuff Arch used. I ended up getting a product called
SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating at the auto paint store. The can says that
it "changes or renews color on most flexible & rigid plastics, carpet, vinyl
& velour." It worked very well and I am very pleased with the results. I
painted all the plastic stuff in the coach that was originally white and had
turned yellow. When I was finished everything looked just like new. I
could hardly believe the difference it made.

As I write this we are having the yellowed plastic stuff redone with
vinyl dye in the interior of our 1979 Cessna 182RG and I can't wait
to see how that turns out. We're having that done for us because my
partners are too lazy to do it ourselves We're getting new
upholstery, carpeting etc. and for what that will cost we could buy a
GMC. I'm really happy that I only have to pay 1/4 of that cost.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> In a message dated 10/28/1999 2:17:05 PM Central Daylight Time, W4BJC

> > I have my front headliner down for refinishing. It was previously cover
> with
> > fabric. I am going to check for leaks and install an antennae.
> > Any more suggestions while I have it down and recommendations for a good
> > white paint
> > to do the plastic headliner.
> >
> Gene
>
> When I redid my headliner I used a vinyl dye. It seems to penetrate
> the surface instead of just sitting on the surface. I used Plasti-Kote
> Ultra Vinyl Color. The color I used was 412 White. I used the same
> thing on the window trim. I am very happy with it.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
 
Why wouldn't you put up the foil stuff again? I used that under my
headliner and it seems to be working. What am I missing?
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI

> I suggest putting in some extra insulation. I used the aluminum foil bubble
> type and would not do it again. I'd use something tried and true like
> fiberglass batting. Insulation in the roof really helps in hot weather
 
>Thanks for all of the suggestions about the headliner. Now how about some
>ideas
>for removing the glue that was used to hold the fabric. I have no idea what
>it was.
>Something that won't ruin the plastic.
>Gene C
>

I've had good luck with plain ol lighter fluid. I have never hit a glue it
wouldn't soften and allow to be wiped off and it has never damaged any of
the surfaces I have used (carefully :^) it on. I just put it on a paper
towel and wipe the glue until it softens. Keep the paper towel wetted and
change it as soon as it absorbs a significant amount of glue. Works for me.

Cheers,
Marion Hope

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
George M.(Marion) Hope, Ph.D.
1930 SW 19th Way gmhope
Gainesville, FL 32608 gmhope
(352) 371-2795 (Home) (352) 846-2111 (Office)
 
Justin:

What aluminum are you talking about?? I guess what you mean is that when up
put the front cap headliner back in place after insulating, the compression
of the insulation caused a wire to rub on the underside of the roof??

Unless there is sufficient space between the front cap headliner (in place)
and the exterior skin of the cap, you are not gaining any insulating value
if fiberglass insulation batts are compressed.

Paul Bartz

From: GMC77PB
Sent: 10/29/99 11:16 PM

In a message dated 10/29/99 8:09:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
Mine seems to be working to a degree, but not as well as I had hoped. My
main
concern is that I insulated an area where the aluminum later touched a
bare
electrical connection and shorted things out. Fortunately it was where
I
could get to it without too much hassle. I think if I had it to do over,
I'd
try to find 2 inch fiberglass bat and put it between the headliner and
roof,
as well as along the sides. Just my opinion.
Justin
 
Arch,
Jim Bounds used this to insulate my engine compartment when he did the
engine swap. Nice stuff. Sure made a difference. When I pull into a gas
station now I don't feel like a wiener on a stick over a burner.
I plan on buying the 48" wide 50' roll of 1 sided 1 ply to laydown as
carpet underlayment (foil side down). The sales gal at their office said
alot of people do this. Guess I'll use the rest on the roof! But then again
the 2 sided foil would work better up there. Hmmm... decisions, decisions.

Nate '75GB (time to go get to work on the coach) Omaha

 
As a suggestion you could use the foam in a can like Great Stuff
polyurethane foam. Comes in several different expanding rates and is
available at most home improvement centers. Let it set for 24 hours and
you can remove any excess. Very simular to the foam that was originally
used by GM.

J.R. Wright

>
> Justin:
>
> What aluminum are you talking about?? I guess what you mean is that when up
> put the front cap headliner back in place after insulating, the compression
> of the insulation caused a wire to rub on the underside of the roof??
>
> Unless there is sufficient space between the front cap headliner (in place)
> and the exterior skin of the cap, you are not gaining any insulating value
> if fiberglass insulation batts are compressed.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
> From: GMC77PB
> Sent: 10/29/99 11:16 PM
>
> In a message dated 10/29/99 8:09:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
> Why wouldn't you put up the foil stuff again? I used that under my
> headliner and it seems to be working. What am I missing?
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI >>
> Mine seems to be working to a degree, but not as well as I had hoped. My
> main
> concern is that I insulated an area where the aluminum later touched a
> bare
> electrical connection and shorted things out. Fortunately it was where
> I
> could get to it without too much hassle. I think if I had it to do over,
> I'd
> try to find 2 inch fiberglass bat and put it between the headliner and
> roof,
> as well as along the sides. Just my opinion.
> Justin
 
Paul,
Your correct on your comment on the use of fiberglass insulation.
Jamming this type of insulation into a tight area with out any air space
is almost as bad as no insulation.

J.R. Wright

>
> Justin:
>
> What aluminum are you talking about?? I guess what you mean is that when up
> put the front cap headliner back in place after insulating, the compression
> of the insulation caused a wire to rub on the underside of the roof??
>
> Unless there is sufficient space between the front cap headliner (in place)
> and the exterior skin of the cap, you are not gaining any insulating value
> if fiberglass insulation batts are compressed.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
> From: GMC77PB
> Sent: 10/29/99 11:16 PM
>
> In a message dated 10/29/99 8:09:15 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
> Why wouldn't you put up the foil stuff again? I used that under my
> headliner and it seems to be working. What am I missing?
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI >>
> Mine seems to be working to a degree, but not as well as I had hoped. My
> main
> concern is that I insulated an area where the aluminum later touched a
> bare
> electrical connection and shorted things out. Fortunately it was where
> I
> could get to it without too much hassle. I think if I had it to do over,
> I'd
> try to find 2 inch fiberglass bat and put it between the headliner and
> roof,
> as well as along the sides. Just my opinion.
> Justin
 
>

As an impartial observer, I can attest to the interior appearances.
The thing is so good in it's original form, there is hardly any room
for improvement but the things that have been done, have been
really done well !! It's one handsome Palm Beach for sure !!
At the rate this guy's going, it'll be better than new !
However, the water pump could use an attitude
adjustment....reports have it that it likes to quit just after
'soap -up' :-)

Mikeb
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Applied GMC
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back