headliner
- Thread starter jim white
- Start date
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Jim,
I'm in the process of changing my headliner too. It has turned out to be a
very time consuming job. However that is because I am doing more then
just replacing the headliner.
I also installed lots of new wiring for various things like cable TV,
telephone, additional AC outlets, computer network and speakers.
I added additional insulation. I also removed, repaired and painted all the
plastic trim parts around the windows, the cockpit headliner and all the
plastic material in the rear of the coach. In addition I'm installing new
"day/night" shades with wooden valances. J
The problem with jobs like this is to know when to stop. It seems that one
thing all ways leads to another thing. When I started this project back in
June I had intended on just to replacing the old drapes! Today I added another
item to my list. I'm replacing the toilet.
On the various GMC web sites there are lots of "how to" material on the
refurbishing the plastic parts, adding insulation etc. If you can't find them,
let me know and I will send you a listing of the various web sites.
Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI
- ------
> just purchased a 78 eleganza II that needs a new headliner from behind the
> driver seats all the way to rear cap....need ideas on what to use and how
> dificult a job......the stripes on the extior are faded, any way to paint or
> how to strip....thanks
> jim
I'm in the process of changing my headliner too. It has turned out to be a
very time consuming job. However that is because I am doing more then
just replacing the headliner.
I also installed lots of new wiring for various things like cable TV,
telephone, additional AC outlets, computer network and speakers.
I added additional insulation. I also removed, repaired and painted all the
plastic trim parts around the windows, the cockpit headliner and all the
plastic material in the rear of the coach. In addition I'm installing new
"day/night" shades with wooden valances. J
The problem with jobs like this is to know when to stop. It seems that one
thing all ways leads to another thing. When I started this project back in
June I had intended on just to replacing the old drapes! Today I added another
item to my list. I'm replacing the toilet.
On the various GMC web sites there are lots of "how to" material on the
refurbishing the plastic parts, adding insulation etc. If you can't find them,
let me know and I will send you a listing of the various web sites.
Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI
- ------
> just purchased a 78 eleganza II that needs a new headliner from behind the
> driver seats all the way to rear cap....need ideas on what to use and how
> dificult a job......the stripes on the extior are faded, any way to paint or
> how to strip....thanks
> jim
>June I had intended on just to replacing the old drapes! Today I added
another
>
>item to my list. I'm replacing the toilet.
>
Richard,
If you haven't already removed the old toilet let me make an observation:
if you are removing a non-recirculating toilet the left rear nut may be
extremely difficult to find. ON our coach the nut was down behind the
hoses. Unfortunately the hoses were a dark brown and completely obscured
the nut. Jim Bounds talked me through where the nut should be. I foound it
by using a focusing flashlight and moving hoses with a long screwdriver.
Putting the new toilet in was a piece of cake - except for the last rear
nut as you might expect. A little moretite or other stickey material in the
bottom of your socket and you can thread the nut down around the hoses to
the stud. Then it's a matter of not cross threading the nut. Some folks use
heavy grease to hold the nut in the socket. I used chewing gum.
Henry
PS the new toilet is great. Good seals. Easy flushes. No stains.
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
another
>
>item to my list. I'm replacing the toilet.
>
Richard,
If you haven't already removed the old toilet let me make an observation:
if you are removing a non-recirculating toilet the left rear nut may be
extremely difficult to find. ON our coach the nut was down behind the
hoses. Unfortunately the hoses were a dark brown and completely obscured
the nut. Jim Bounds talked me through where the nut should be. I foound it
by using a focusing flashlight and moving hoses with a long screwdriver.
Putting the new toilet in was a piece of cake - except for the last rear
nut as you might expect. A little moretite or other stickey material in the
bottom of your socket and you can thread the nut down around the hoses to
the stud. Then it's a matter of not cross threading the nut. Some folks use
heavy grease to hold the nut in the socket. I used chewing gum.
Henry
PS the new toilet is great. Good seals. Easy flushes. No stains.
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
Henry,
Thanks for the tips. The removal of the old toilet is planned for next
week sometime. The toilet I'm removing is a recirculating unit, but I
suspect it may be attached in a similar fashion as you describe.
Richard Waters
> If you haven't already removed the old toilet let me make an observation:
> if you are removing a non-recirculating toilet the left rear nut may be
> extremely difficult to find. ON our coach the nut was down behind the
> hoses. Unfortunately the hoses were a dark brown and completely obscured
> the nut. Jim Bounds talked me through where the nut should be. I foound it
> by using a focusing flashlight and moving hoses with a long screwdriver.
>
> Putting the new toilet in was a piece of cake - except for the last rear
> nut as you might expect. A little moretite or other stickey material in the
> bottom of your socket and you can thread the nut down around the hoses to
> the stud. Then it's a matter of not cross threading the nut. Some folks use
> heavy grease to hold the nut in the socket. I used chewing gum.
>
> Henry
> PS the new toilet is great. Good seals. Easy flushes. No stains.
>
Thanks for the tips. The removal of the old toilet is planned for next
week sometime. The toilet I'm removing is a recirculating unit, but I
suspect it may be attached in a similar fashion as you describe.
Richard Waters
> If you haven't already removed the old toilet let me make an observation:
> if you are removing a non-recirculating toilet the left rear nut may be
> extremely difficult to find. ON our coach the nut was down behind the
> hoses. Unfortunately the hoses were a dark brown and completely obscured
> the nut. Jim Bounds talked me through where the nut should be. I foound it
> by using a focusing flashlight and moving hoses with a long screwdriver.
>
> Putting the new toilet in was a piece of cake - except for the last rear
> nut as you might expect. A little moretite or other stickey material in the
> bottom of your socket and you can thread the nut down around the hoses to
> the stud. Then it's a matter of not cross threading the nut. Some folks use
> heavy grease to hold the nut in the socket. I used chewing gum.
>
> Henry
> PS the new toilet is great. Good seals. Easy flushes. No stains.
>
My head liner was replaced two years ago by Tom Hampton of Grandview
Motorhome in Marysville Ohio. He used a white Formica with a slight
"leather like " texture. I'm convinced that this is the best way to go.
Bob McCarthy
77 Kingsley
Motorhome in Marysville Ohio. He used a white Formica with a slight
"leather like " texture. I'm convinced that this is the best way to go.
Bob McCarthy
77 Kingsley
Jim
I also replaced my headliner and installed day night shades. I used a
white textured fiberglass type panel from lowes.
Very easy to cut with jigsaw, no chips, burrs or melting. Used old
panels as template. I also installed the metal foil bubble wrap type
insulation from Lowes. System looks great - brightens inside and is
easily cleaned. Had it installed since November and have noticed no
extra noise or problems, but it sure makes a difference in the AC
cooling. Cost was about 25.00 per sheet for panels and used 6 to do
ceiling and sides also. That's what I did.
Jim Hall
77PB
- --
Jim Hall 77PB in Pawleys Island, SC
BELIEVE and SUCCEED
I also replaced my headliner and installed day night shades. I used a
white textured fiberglass type panel from lowes.
Very easy to cut with jigsaw, no chips, burrs or melting. Used old
panels as template. I also installed the metal foil bubble wrap type
insulation from Lowes. System looks great - brightens inside and is
easily cleaned. Had it installed since November and have noticed no
extra noise or problems, but it sure makes a difference in the AC
cooling. Cost was about 25.00 per sheet for panels and used 6 to do
ceiling and sides also. That's what I did.
Jim Hall
77PB
- --
Jim Hall 77PB in Pawleys Island, SC
BELIEVE and SUCCEED
Jim,
Congrats, I firmly believe the difference in those who can and cannot is
that you have the whatever to start the job!
I also use the bubble foil insulation. Have not been asked to do a hard
surface headliner but will be ready when someone does ask.
Thanks for the input,
Jim Bounds
- -------------------
>Jim
>I also replaced my headliner and installed day night shades. I used a
>white textured fiberglass type panel from lowes.
>Very easy to cut with jigsaw, no chips, burrs or melting. Used old
>panels as template. I also installed the metal foil bubble wrap type
>insulation from Lowes. System looks great - brightens inside and is
>easily cleaned. Had it installed since November and have noticed no
>extra noise or problems, but it sure makes a difference in the AC
>cooling. Cost was about 25.00 per sheet for panels and used 6 to do
>ceiling and sides also. That's what I did.
>
>Jim Hall
>77PB
>
>--
> Jim Hall 77PB in Pawleys Island, SC
>
>BELIEVE and SUCCEED
>
>
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
Congrats, I firmly believe the difference in those who can and cannot is
that you have the whatever to start the job!
I also use the bubble foil insulation. Have not been asked to do a hard
surface headliner but will be ready when someone does ask.
Thanks for the input,
Jim Bounds
- -------------------
>Jim
>I also replaced my headliner and installed day night shades. I used a
>white textured fiberglass type panel from lowes.
>Very easy to cut with jigsaw, no chips, burrs or melting. Used old
>panels as template. I also installed the metal foil bubble wrap type
>insulation from Lowes. System looks great - brightens inside and is
>easily cleaned. Had it installed since November and have noticed no
>extra noise or problems, but it sure makes a difference in the AC
>cooling. Cost was about 25.00 per sheet for panels and used 6 to do
>ceiling and sides also. That's what I did.
>
>Jim Hall
>77PB
>
>--
> Jim Hall 77PB in Pawleys Island, SC
>
>BELIEVE and SUCCEED
>
>
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com
found a way to get plastic side trim off without breaking...use the 90
degree end of a wonder bar inserted from the top and move bar either fwd or
aft and it pops right out...slide bar about another 6 inches etc.etc.
i have the foil back bubble insulation and was wondering what you normally
do with the old insulation...remove all of it or just knock off the high
spots.....thanks jim
degree end of a wonder bar inserted from the top and move bar either fwd or
aft and it pops right out...slide bar about another 6 inches etc.etc.
i have the foil back bubble insulation and was wondering what you normally
do with the old insulation...remove all of it or just knock off the high
spots.....thanks jim
That's what I did to get my trim out. It was tedious to say the least.
I didn't do anything to my OEM insulation (I didn't have any high spots).
The only clearance issues I have encountered so far are where I have a bundle
of cable (TV, Network, Stereo, new AC lines etc.) and that has caused a bulge
in one area. It's covered by the locker over the dinette. What a pain getting
that one back up. Just did it a few minutes ago.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
(1 locker to go and the trim and headliner is done, leaving Saturday)
- -----
found a way to get plastic side trim off without breaking...use the 90
> degree end of a wonder bar inserted from the top and move bar either fwd or
> aft and it pops right out...slide bar about another 6 inches etc.etc.
> i have the foil back bubble insulation and was wondering what you normally
> do with the old insulation...remove all of it or just knock off the high
> spots.....thanks jim
I didn't do anything to my OEM insulation (I didn't have any high spots).
The only clearance issues I have encountered so far are where I have a bundle
of cable (TV, Network, Stereo, new AC lines etc.) and that has caused a bulge
in one area. It's covered by the locker over the dinette. What a pain getting
that one back up. Just did it a few minutes ago.
Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
(1 locker to go and the trim and headliner is done, leaving Saturday)
- -----
found a way to get plastic side trim off without breaking...use the 90
> degree end of a wonder bar inserted from the top and move bar either fwd or
> aft and it pops right out...slide bar about another 6 inches etc.etc.
> i have the foil back bubble insulation and was wondering what you normally
> do with the old insulation...remove all of it or just knock off the high
> spots.....thanks jim
