Headliner advice

[hdavis]

I'd hoped to avoid replacing the headliner in our 76 Palm Beach until this
fall or winter. But, two sections are coming down in a big way and I'm tired
of fooling around trying to patch it up. So - I need some advice on how to
go about replacing the decaying cardboard with 1/8 luan plywood. The trim
closest to the front of the coach is riveted onto the coach through the
headliner. I presume that this is anchored in the ribs. Also, the first
piece of headliner is 52" from front to back while luan is only 48" I'm
planning on cutting the luan according to the current trim which means that
the first piece is actually going to be made up of two pieces - one quite
narrow and the other closer to 48"

I've noticed that the headliner on my coach has a crease running from front
to back on the driver's side about 2/3 up the radius of the headliner. Is
this purposeful? What have others done to address this "feature" or does it
matter?

Thanks for any advice.

Henry - who just finshed replacing a long time leaking macerator connector
to the black tank. A messy job.


Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com

 

[donald w. miller]

Henry,

I now have the headliner out of the 75 Glenbrook we are refurbishing.
Those creases you mention seem to be for appearance only.

I am adding more insulation using a product called "reflexic" which is a
couple of aluminized layers of bubble wrap. Very light weight, does not
draw moisture and especially good for reducing radiant energy which seems to
pass through the fiberglass and foam. I found this material at the local
hardware store.

I notice in the archives you were having "dash air" problems. Have you
found a fix?

I am in the midst of working this problem too. My solution to enhance the
front dash output is a bit different from the "factory fix" described in
Service Bulletin 76-TM-1. My scheme looks good on paper, is simpler, but
is still untested.

I plan to install a second AC evaporator in the refrigerator area but
haven't selected a "junkyard" unit yet.

The compressor has 12.5 cu. in. but I don't know the volumetric efficiency.
If V.E. is near 80% it should be capable of 30,000 btu at 1800 rpm using
freon 12 so it would have plenty of capacity to run two units.

I wonder if anyone has eliminated the roof top AC units? Handling should
improve with 220 pounds less weight on the roof.

Don Miller

 

[hdavis]

>
>Henry,
>
>I now have the headliner out of the 75 Glenbrook we are refurbishing.
>Those creases you mention seem to be for appearance only.
>
>I am adding more insulation using a product called "reflexic" which is a
>couple of aluminized layers of bubble wrap. Very light weight, does not
>draw moisture and especially good for reducing radiant energy which seems
to
>pass through the fiberglass and foam. I found this material at the local
>hardware store.

We decided to use a similar material in between the rafters and beams. I had
the coach out of the warehouse today in the sun and noticed a difference
between those locations where we put the insulation and the others.

>
>I notice in the archives you were having "dash air" problems. Have you
>found a fix?

Here's the problems so far:

1. broken mixer door cable means that the heater door doesn't close. There
is a plastic end piece which is attached to the A/C housing. With age the
plastic broke - and now I'm searching for a replacement cable.

2. A/C clutch doesn't kick in. But I may have no freon. So, tomorrow it goes
to the A/C man for a charge check and a trouble list.

3. my arms are too short to reach some of the doors inside the dash. So, I
either have to recruit someone to clean the old foam off the doors, or build
some tools.

4. the blower switch is a bit unreliable. So, that needs to be replaced.

5. I don't know if the vaccuum switches work or not - time to check them
out.

Fortunately the pin in the control assembly is not worn too badly. In fact,
I see little to no wear at all.

>
>I am in the midst of working this problem too. My solution to enhance the
>front dash output is a bit different from the "factory fix" described in
>Service Bulletin 76-TM-1. My scheme looks good on paper, is simpler, but
>is still untested.

Care to share it?

>
>I plan to install a second AC evaporator in the refrigerator area but
>haven't selected a "junkyard" unit yet.

I've been considering adding a second evaporator in the ceiling area in
front of the existing roof unit. It's a long run of hose though.

>
>The compressor has 12.5 cu. in. but I don't know the volumetric efficiency.
>If V.E. is near 80% it should be capable of 30,000 btu at 1800 rpm using
>freon 12 so it would have plenty of capacity to run two units.

Wes Caughlin says that Cinnabar installs an additional evaporator in thoir
rebuilds, but I don't know where they locate it.

>
>I wonder if anyone has eliminated the roof top AC units? Handling should
>improve with 220 pounds less weight on the roof.
>

I have considered replacing the rooftop unit with a newer more efficient
one. Weight may be the deciding factor!

Thanks,

Henry
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 21:45:02 -0700
From: Bill Rush
Subject: Re: GMC: Exhaust Manifold

> Dick,
>
> I installed headers on my rig about two year ago and have both original manifolds
> in the rafters of the barn.
>
> I had to replace one about 5 years ago and paid $50 for it in a salvage yard.
>
> I'll let you have either or both for $50 each.
>
> Bill Rush
> 73 Canyonlands
>
> > > I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked several
> > > of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.
> > >>
> > > If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them coated but I
> > > don't have the time to do that now.
> > >>
> > > I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new opinions
> > > on this subject.
> > >
> > > Dick Kennedy