headlight out, not the bulb

kstockwell

kstockwell

Member
May 24, 2016
376
2
18
Please don't think I'm lazy for asking this question of you and not just tracing wires...

My passenger headlight went out, I assumed it was the bulb, went to the auto parts store, spent $20 and got a new one. But it doesn't work either.
Recently my horn stopped working, I hear clicking of a relay somewhere behind the glove box, is there a tie in between a headlight and the horn? I
remember some older car I had used the same fuse for the tail lights and the dash lights to let you know your tail lights were out.

The high beam works, but not the low beam. Should I just peel back the pre-war electrical tape shrouding the wire assembly to the back of the bulb
and start looking?

thanks
kelly
--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
No fuses on headlights. Auto reset breaker in dash switch. Since one side ok not that or foot switch. If you have the odd "cupped" style connectors
at the headlamp they prevent full pin insertion with new headlights. Meter there and if you have power with low beams on then slightly trim back the
edge of the plastic cup to get better connection
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Try the one from the other side that you KNOW works. After that I would get
a simple light up test light and work your way back up the harness. Left
and right hl share the same fuse yeah?

Sully
Bellevue wa

> Please don't think I'm lazy for asking this question of you and not just
> tracing wires...
>
> My passenger headlight went out, I assumed it was the bulb, went to the
> auto parts store, spent $20 and got a new one. But it doesn't work either.
> Recently my horn stopped working, I hear clicking of a relay somewhere
> behind the glove box, is there a tie in between a headlight and the horn? I
> remember some older car I had used the same fuse for the tail lights and
> the dash lights to let you know your tail lights were out.
>
> The high beam works, but not the low beam. Should I just peel back the
> pre-war electrical tape shrouding the wire assembly to the back of the bulb
> and start looking?
>
>
> thanks
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Check the wire connector as it is the same for both sides.
After 40 years, they do corrode .

> Try the one from the other side that you KNOW works. After that I would get
> a simple light up test light and work your way back up the harness. Left
> and right hl share the same fuse yeah?
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
>

>
> > Please don't think I'm lazy for asking this question of you and not just
> > tracing wires...
> >
> > My passenger headlight went out, I assumed it was the bulb, went to the
> > auto parts store, spent $20 and got a new one. But it doesn't work
> either.
> > Recently my horn stopped working, I hear clicking of a relay somewhere
> > behind the glove box, is there a tie in between a headlight and the
> horn? I
> > remember some older car I had used the same fuse for the tail lights and
> > the dash lights to let you know your tail lights were out.
> >
> > The high beam works, but not the low beam. Should I just peel back the
> > pre-war electrical tape shrouding the wire assembly to the back of the
> bulb
> > and start looking?
> >
> >
> > thanks
> > kelly
> > --
> > 1978 Kingsley
> > Putney VT
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I did not check my voltages after swapping the light. I foolishly thought "this should be a breeze, swap the light"
When I get home I'll check to see that voltage is going to it, and check the connections.

The old bulb did not want to disconnect AT ALL, I pried at it with a flat head screwdriver and actually popped whatever vacuum system was in there
(bulb? housing?) and heard a psst. I used contact grease on the new terminals so it should be easier to remove

Thanks!
kelly
--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
Your plug end is likely bad. You can get a new one in the “help” section at
your favorite auto part store. Usually this is caused by a loose connection
and as it shorts it gets hot and burns the contacts in the pigtail and then
melts the plastic plug end.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> I did not check my voltages after swapping the light. I foolishly thought
> "this should be a breeze, swap the light"
> When I get home I'll check to see that voltage is going to it, and check
> the connections.
>
> The old bulb did not want to disconnect AT ALL, I pried at it with a flat
> head screwdriver and actually popped whatever vacuum system was in there
> (bulb? housing?) and heard a psst. I used contact grease on the new
> terminals so it should be easier to remove
>
> Thanks!
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
also check the dimmer switch, wiggle the connector. I lost all headlights because of a bad connection there.
Maybe one wire went bad
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Todd Sullivan
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 1:25 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] headlight out, not the bulb

Your plug end is likely bad. You can get a new one in the “help” section at
your favorite auto part store. Usually this is caused by a loose connection
and as it shorts it gets hot and burns the contacts in the pigtail and then
melts the plastic plug end.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> I did not check my voltages after swapping the light. I foolishly thought
> "this should be a breeze, swap the light"
> When I get home I'll check to see that voltage is going to it, and check
> the connections.
>
> The old bulb did not want to disconnect AT ALL, I pried at it with a flat
> head screwdriver and actually popped whatever vacuum system was in there
> (bulb? housing?) and heard a psst. I used contact grease on the new
> terminals so it should be easier to remove
>
> Thanks!
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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You are experiencing the results of keeping an old school piece of
automotive history alive for 40 years. It was made in an era when labor
costs were not the highest part of the estimated cost of repairs. All the
electrical stuff is well beyond its expected service life. We won't even
talk about the mechanical systems, or the home systems. Maintenance on
these vehicles is similar to a military helicopter. 15 hours of ground
maintenance for every hour of flight time. It is not a Lexus. Open up those
hatch covers, and check stuff in there. Before every trip. If you don't,
you will on the road.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.
78 GMC ROYALE 403

Your plug end is likely bad. You can get a new one in the “help” section at
your favorite auto part store. Usually this is caused by a loose connection
and as it shorts it gets hot and burns the contacts in the pigtail and then
melts the plastic plug end.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> I did not check my voltages after swapping the light. I foolishly thought
> "this should be a breeze, swap the light"
> When I get home I'll check to see that voltage is going to it, and check
> the connections.
>
> The old bulb did not want to disconnect AT ALL, I pried at it with a flat
> head screwdriver and actually popped whatever vacuum system was in there
> (bulb? housing?) and heard a psst. I used contact grease on the new
> terminals so it should be easier to remove
>
> Thanks!
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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I only had to peel back 3" of the electrical tape beyond the lamp connection.

I have 12V between two legs with high beams, no volts with low beams.

This whole mess was electrical taped up, what I don't understand is the plug connection that is not connected and was electrical taped so they were
apart from each other. Anyone know what this plug is for?

I feel like an archeologist.

thank you
kelly
--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
> I only had to peel back 3" of the electrical tape beyond the lamp connection.
>
> I have 12V between two legs with high beams, no volts with low beams.
>
> This whole mess was electrical taped up, what I don't understand is the plug connection that is not connected and was electrical taped so they
> were apart from each other. Anyone know what this plug is for?
>
> I feel like an archeologist.
>
>
>
>
> thank you
> kelly

Kelly,

Great sleuthing!!

I believe that the other connector is for the side marker light.

If you are not familiar with solder and heat shrink tubing, this would be a very good time to learn.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I think I have that tubing, but I thought it was crimp and heat shrink so I smashed it... Didn't seem right, guess I need something other than a
lighter to use this stuff properly

> > I only had to peel back 3" of the electrical tape beyond the lamp connection.
> >
> > I have 12V between two legs with high beams, no volts with low beams.
> >
> > This whole mess was electrical taped up, what I don't understand is the plug connection that is not connected and was electrical taped so they
> > were apart from each other. Anyone know what this plug is for?
> >
> > I feel like an archeologist.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > thank you
> > kelly
>
> Kelly,
>
> Great sleuthing!!
>
> I believe that the other connector is for the side marker light.
>
> If you are not familiar with solder and heat shrink tubing, this would be a very good time to learn.
>
> Matt

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
When splicing in the new bulb sockets, use the Western Union Splice method to join the wires. Put shrink wrap over the joint. Better to use shrink
wrap with the internal adhesive for a weatherproof connection.

When I upgraded my headlights to the LMC relay method, I had to trim the bulb socket to fit.

Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
> I think I have that tubing, but I thought it was crimp and heat shrink so I smashed it... Didn't seem right, guess I need something other than a
> lighter to use this stuff properly
>
> I plugged the ends together, I saw no difference in lights, the side lights were on before and after. Should I unplug it again?

Kelly,

There are crimp connectors with heat shrink, but most are not. Paranoid people (like me) do the solder and heat shrink because it is the most
reliable joint. (Others may argue, but I spent a lot of time in tidal waters.)

As to that connector, I remember that as being for the side marker light. If your side marker light doesn't need it, maybe the PO made some other
arrangement. That be the case, I would leave it disconnected lest you create some new issue.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
The only time crimping is better is when the crimp is properly done. The
connector must be the correct size for the wire, and the crimp made using a
ratcheting crimped with the correct die. Only then is the joint so
uniformly tight that it seals out air from the mating surface.

Heat-shrink tubing is easiest to shrink with a heat gun. I like the
connectors that have a heat-shrink jacked, with hot-melt glue to provide an
air-tight seal.

I’ve done it wrong and I’ve done it right. But in my traffic signal
background, I’ve learned that soldered connections can also fail in a
variety of ways.

For a headlight circuit, I’d use crimped connections, but I (now) have the
right tools.

Rick “who learned this the hard way” Denney

> Kelly,
>
> There are crimp connectors with heat shrink, but most are not. Paranoid
> people (like me) do the solder and heat shrink because it is the most
> reliable joint. (Others may argue, but I spent a lot of time in tidal
> waters.)
>
> As to that connector, I remember that as being for the side marker light.
> If your side marker light doesn't need it, maybe the PO made some other
> arrangement. That be the case, I would leave it disconnected lest you
> create some new issue.
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
See if you can gently needle nose straighten that bent over pin. This is why no coach should be without a can of Caig DeOxit D5 spray Spray those
corroded female sockets. The lubricant in the spray also make it easier to mate the two without bending pins.
Did you meter at the headlamp socket? Examine the sockets there. Most likely one is bad. 95% chance. If the wired have been not POed it's almost
always the connectors. If good did you read my post about trimming back the cup on the headlamp connector?
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Harbor Freight carries a heat gun at reasonable prices; even puts it on sale occasionally. Adequate to do the job for a "home" mechanic, but my not stand up to continuous use. I have one and use it occasionally.

D C "Mac" Macdonald​
Amateur Radio K2GKK​
Since 30 November '53​
USAF and FAA, Retired​
Member GMCMI & Classics​
Oklahoma City, OK​
"The Money Pit"​
TZE166V101966​
'76 ex-Palm Beach​
k2gkk + hotmail dot com
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of kelly stockwell
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 06:25
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] headlight out, not the bulb

I think I have that tubing, but I thought it was crimp and heat shrink so I smashed it... Didn't seem right, guess I need something other than a
lighter to use this stuff properly

> > I only had to peel back 3" of the electrical tape beyond the lamp connection.
> >
> > I have 12V between two legs with high beams, no volts with low beams.
> >
> > This whole mess was electrical taped up, what I don't understand is the plug connection that is not connected and was electrical taped so they
> > were apart from each other. Anyone know what this plug is for?
> >
> > I feel like an archeologist.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > thank you
> > kelly
>
> Kelly,
>
> Great sleuthing!!
>
> I believe that the other connector is for the side marker light.
>
> If you are not familiar with solder and heat shrink tubing, this would be a very good time to learn.
>
> Matt

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT

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Dont think this was mentioned but you have a Brown Wire with a pink butt connector thats loose...

Id snip both of those wires and put new splices on both....

Take some sand paper and clean off every contact you can get to. Steel wool and a dentists pick/ scratch awl will help to clean those all up well.
Then hit them with some electrical grease.

I had a similar issue on my driver side with the low beam only working some of the time. it was a loose connection in the bulb socket that needed to
be cleaned and bent a bit back into shape to make good contact.

--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
 
Thanks all!

I'm going to get a heat gun and redo the connections that are already spliced with the solder shrink tube connectors I have. I have almost equal
amount butt connectors as wires. I removed one 12" wire piece that had 3 connectors in it (it was shorting out my fuel pump to the air conditioning
plumbing)

And then I'll check the voltage coming out of the horn relay, it's clicking but not honking

cheers
kelly

--
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
 
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