GMC wheel alignment

[bsnjs]

Richard, Just replaced relay lever in my 76 edgemont. Old one seemed to have
a lot of slop in it but new one has'nt helped steering problem. Idler arm and
tie rods,etc seem reasonably tight. Am leaning toward new steering box as
possible fix. Wish I knew some way to determine for sure if old box is bad.
Cinnabar has new relay lever complete for about 200.00. Not a big job installing.
HTH
Bill

.
>
>With the front wheels off the ground I can easily vary the toe 1/8" or more

>each side by twisting the tire in and out, using only moderate force. Hubs,

>ball joints and tie rods are tight but the play comes from the idler arm and

>steering relay lever - the two parts which support the relay rod. These each

>pivot around a large bolt attached to the frame and it is in the bushings on

>these bolts that I can see the play.
>
>I would like to eliminate the slop. Has anyone reading this had experience

>in replacing the bushing assemblies in them or know if they are even
>available?
>
>Richard
>
>Al and Richard-
>Thanks for the input. I was talking to an alignment man today and he
>agreed with the toe out for a front wheel drive vehicle but thought that
>1/8" toe out would put quite a bit of scrub on the tire and suggested
>1/16" out as being better.But I take it from what you say, it doesn't
>wear the tires.
>
>Yes, I agree it sure is important to have the "right" amount of air
>pressure!!!!!!!!!! Trouble is what seems right for one is sometimes
>quite different, than what seems right for someone else.Oh well such is
>life.
>
>Claude
>
>
>

 

[bsnjs]

Thanks Wayne, I do intend to try the on vehicle adjustment that Al(I think
it was) advocated. Actually wouldnt mind putting on new box (NAPA 200.00)
but would like to be sure before (CASPRO 600.00) though wouldnt hesitate if
I knew it would do the job. Really hate to bring thes up buttt my steering
problems seem to have started when I got rid of my non-steel sidewall 9.50s@
65# and got all steel 8.75@ 80 Must be my imagination.
bill

>Bill
>
>Before you get into replacing your steering box, try adjusting the one you
have. That
>has worked for a lot of the netters.
>Some have reported that new boxes haven't helped, except to lighten the wallet.

>
>Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia, Md
>

>
>> Richard, Just replaced relay lever in my 76 edgemont. Old one seemed to
have
>> a lot of slop in it but new one has'nt helped steering problem. Idler arm
and
>> tie rods,etc seem reasonably tight. Am leaning toward new steering box
as
>> possible fix. Wish I knew some way to determine for sure if old box is bad.

>> Cinnabar has new relay lever complete for about 200.00. Not a big job
installing.
>> HTH
>> Bill
>>
>> .
>> >
>> >With the front wheels off the ground I can easily vary the toe 1/8" or more

>>
>> >each side by twisting the tire in and out, using only moderate force. Hubs,

>>
>> >ball joints and tie rods are tight but the play comes from the idler arm
and
>>
>> >steering relay lever - the two parts which support the relay rod. These
each
>>
>> >pivot around a large bolt attached to the frame and it is in the bushings
on
>>
>> >these bolts that I can see the play.
>> >
>> >I would like to eliminate the slop. Has anyone reading this had experience

>>
>> >in replacing the bushing assemblies in them or know if they are even
>> >available?
>> >
>> >Richard
>> >
>> >Al and Richard-
>> >Thanks for the input. I was talking to an alignment man today and he
>> >agreed with the toe out for a front wheel drive vehicle but thought that

>> >1/8" toe out would put quite a bit of scrub on the tire and suggested
>> >1/16" out as being better.But I take it from what you say, it doesn't
>> >wear the tires.
>> >
>> >Yes, I agree it sure is important to have the "right" amount of air
>> >pressure!!!!!!!!!! Trouble is what seems right for one is sometimes
>> >quite different, than what seems right for someone else.Oh well such is

>> >life.
>> >
>> >Claude
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>

 

[claude brousson]

Al and Richard-
Thanks for the input. I was talking to an alignment man today and he
agreed with the toe out for a front wheel drive vehicle but thought that
1/8" toe out would put quite a bit of scrub on the tire and suggested
1/16" out as being better.But I take it from what you say, it doesn't
wear the tires.

Yes, I agree it sure is important to have the "right" amount of air
pressure!!!!!!!!!! Trouble is what seems right for one is sometimes
quite different, than what seems right for someone else.Oh well such is
life.

Claude

 

[richard guthart]

Mine is set at 1/8" total toe-out (1/16" per side) but I could probably use
more, considering the amount of play in the front end.

With the front wheels off the ground I can easily vary the toe 1/8" or more
each side by twisting the tire in and out, using only moderate force. Hubs,
ball joints and tie rods are tight but the play comes from the idler arm and
steering relay lever - the two parts which support the relay rod. These each
pivot around a large bolt attached to the frame and it is in the bushings on
these bolts that I can see the play.

I would like to eliminate the slop. Has anyone reading this had experience
in replacing the bushing assemblies in them or know if they are even
available?

Richard

Al and Richard-
Thanks for the input. I was talking to an alignment man today and he
agreed with the toe out for a front wheel drive vehicle but thought that
1/8" toe out would put quite a bit of scrub on the tire and suggested
1/16" out as being better.But I take it from what you say, it doesn't
wear the tires.

Yes, I agree it sure is important to have the "right" amount of air
pressure!!!!!!!!!! Trouble is what seems right for one is sometimes
quite different, than what seems right for someone else.Oh well such is
life.

Claude

 

[wayne newland]

Bill

Before you get into replacing your steering box, try adjusting the one you have. That
has worked for a lot of the netters.
Some have reported that new boxes haven't helped, except to lighten the wallet.

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia, Md

> Richard, Just replaced relay lever in my 76 edgemont. Old one seemed to have
> a lot of slop in it but new one has'nt helped steering problem. Idler arm and
> tie rods,etc seem reasonably tight. Am leaning toward new steering box as
> possible fix. Wish I knew some way to determine for sure if old box is bad.
> Cinnabar has new relay lever complete for about 200.00. Not a big job installing.
> HTH
> Bill
>
> .
> >
> >With the front wheels off the ground I can easily vary the toe 1/8" or more
>
> >each side by twisting the tire in and out, using only moderate force. Hubs,
>
> >ball joints and tie rods are tight but the play comes from the idler arm and
>
> >steering relay lever - the two parts which support the relay rod. These each
>
> >pivot around a large bolt attached to the frame and it is in the bushings on
>
> >these bolts that I can see the play.
> >
> >I would like to eliminate the slop. Has anyone reading this had experience
>
> >in replacing the bushing assemblies in them or know if they are even
> >available?
> >
> >Richard
> >
> >Al and Richard-
> >Thanks for the input. I was talking to an alignment man today and he
> >agreed with the toe out for a front wheel drive vehicle but thought that
> >1/8" toe out would put quite a bit of scrub on the tire and suggested
> >1/16" out as being better.But I take it from what you say, it doesn't
> >wear the tires.
> >
> >Yes, I agree it sure is important to have the "right" amount of air
> >pressure!!!!!!!!!! Trouble is what seems right for one is sometimes
> >quite different, than what seems right for someone else.Oh well such is
> >life.
> >
> >Claude
> >
> >
> >

 

[brent covey]

Hi Richard and everyone-

>Mine is set at 1/8" total toe-out (1/16" per side) but I could probably use
>more, considering the amount of play in the front end.

Radial tires are pretty forgiving of heavy toe either way, wear wont be
affected much until ~5/16" total. If you go too far things get squirrely in
rain/slush and wobble around in x winds. Play around for what feels good to
you. Toronado used quite a heavy toe out spec originally.

>I would like to eliminate the slop. Has anyone reading this had experience
>in replacing the bushing assemblies in them or know if they are even
>available?

Something else you may wish to double check is supension ride height. As
the wheels go up and down relative to the chassis they steer in and out a
little and change track/camber to counter one wheel bumps to minimize the
effects on overall stability. For this to work, the suspension has to be
high enough, and many are a trifle low which can make steering a bit
uncertain. Normal play within wear limits shouldnt have a large effect upon
overall steering precision.

Hope this helps-

Brent Covey
Vancouver

 

[richard guthart]

Ray sent me to Bear Alignment in Loveland, Rick. I was very happy with them.
I didn't mention them before because it looked like richard smith's address
was Castle Rock, about 90 miles away. Must be a god shop on the south side
of Denver.

Richard

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailtowner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of
> RickStapls
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 9:51 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: GMC wheel alignment
>
>
> In a message dated 3/31/00 8:02:09 AM MDT,
> richard.smith8

>
> > Does anyone know of a wheel alignment shop in the Denver Colorado Metro
> > (Front Range) area that does a good job on our GMC MHs??
>
> Richard,
> Check with Ray Curtis at Eaton GMC (970-454-3673). I think he
> recommends a
> shop in Ft. Collins, but not sure. If you find one you like, let
> us know too.
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO
>