GMC Parts Translation

J

jack christensen1

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Mar 30, 2008
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Is there something somewhere which translates the GM part numbers in the Motorhome Parts Manual to common descriptions where they exist? I need to
know what the size of the bolts are that hold the carb to the intake manifold so I can connect a lifting plate to pick up a donor engine. Obviously I
could remove one on my GMC and see, but I was hoping for something easier which could answer my immediate problem and be useful in the future.
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
 
Jack, you'd be much safer lifting from bolts in the unused holes in the
ends of the cylinder heads, which have 3/8-16 threads.

Rick "nervous about hanging 600 pounds from bolts only in tension" Denney

> Is there something somewhere which translates the GM part numbers in the
> Motorhome Parts Manual to common descriptions where they exist? I need to
> know what the size of the bolts are that hold the carb to the intake
> manifold so I can connect a lifting plate to pick up a donor engine.
> Obviously I
> could remove one on my GMC and see, but I was hoping for something easier
> which could answer my immediate problem and be useful in the future.
> --
> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
> Sebastopol, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Others will chime in on the bolt size.

FYI- when the other week I helped someone pull an engine. No lifting plate, and I asked and because the waterpump the engine needs to tilt quite a
bit for it to come out of the hold. So a engine leveler was key, installed
Cross ways with a bolt/chain on passenger front head and drivers rear head.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GGBK2RM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500156878&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=engine+leveler&psc=1

However the one we used needed a socket, not a crank to adjust the leveling. There not much room to spin a crank handle.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Here is one I saw in action recently. It is compact and provides close to 45° nose up/down on most V engines.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-701001/none/images

Got to be one of the most adjustable I've seen for lifting/positioning an engine.

I'm wondering if it would work on a TZE.

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'

>
> Others will chime in on the bolt size.
>
> FYI- when the other week I helped someone pull an engine. No lifting plate, and I asked and because the waterpump the engine needs to tilt quite a
> bit for it to come out of the hold. So a engine leveler was key, installed
> Cross ways with a bolt/chain on passenger front head and drivers rear head.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GGBK2RM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500156878&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=engine+leveler&psc=1
>
> However the one we used needed a socket, not a crank to adjust the leveling. There not much room to spin a crank handle.
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
When I first started R&Ring GMC engines out the bottom, I had no luck
finding an engine tilt device. So I resorted to using a chain hoist and a
come-a-long (the latter because I don't have two chain hoists) on separate
gantry dollies. One chain between two intake manifold bolts well forward
and another similarly located well aft. Generally lift the front a little,
then let the rear down until the engine (and, usually, the transmission and
final drive) is hanging from the front hoist. Roll the front gantry dolly
aft just enough to gain front clearance, and lower away.

JWID,

Ken H.

> Here is one I saw in action recently. It is compact and provides close to
> 45° nose up/down on most V engines.
>
> https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-701001/none/images
>
> Got to be one of the most adjustable I've seen for lifting/positioning an
> engine.
>
> I'm wondering if it would work on a TZE.
>
 
I lift them out the top by the carb mounting surface. Natural balance
point. Done dozens of them that way. No drama.
Jim Hupy

> When I first started R&Ring GMC engines out the bottom, I had no luck
> finding an engine tilt device. So I resorted to using a chain hoist and a
> come-a-long (the latter because I don't have two chain hoists) on separate
> gantry dollies. One chain between two intake manifold bolts well forward
> and another similarly located well aft. Generally lift the front a little,
> then let the rear down until the engine (and, usually, the transmission and
> final drive) is hanging from the front hoist. Roll the front gantry dolly
> aft just enough to gain front clearance, and lower away.
>
> JWID,
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > Here is one I saw in action recently. It is compact and provides close to
> > 45° nose up/down on most V engines.
> >
> > https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-701001/none/images
> >
> > Got to be one of the most adjustable I've seen for lifting/positioning an
> > engine.
> >
> > I'm wondering if it would work on a TZE.
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I borrowed the hoist and rail from the GMC Mountainaires but I had to tip the engine to hoist it out without taking off the water pump or pulleys. I bought an engine tilt device from Harbor Freight which worked well. I donated that to the Mountainaires to go with their hoist.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> I lift them out the top by the carb mounting surface. Natural balance
> point. Done dozens of them that way. No drama.
> Jim Hupy
>

>>
>> When I first started R&Ring GMC engines out the bottom, I had no luck
>> finding an engine tilt device. So I resorted to using a chain hoist and a
>> come-a-long (the latter because I don't have two chain hoists) on separate
>> gantry dollies. One chain between two intake manifold bolts well forward
>> and another similarly located well aft. Generally lift the front a little,
>> then let the rear down until the engine (and, usually, the transmission and
>> final drive) is hanging from the front hoist. Roll the front gantry dolly
>> aft just enough to gain front clearance, and lower away.
>>
>> JWID,
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>

>>>
>>> Here is one I saw in action recently. It is compact and provides close to
>>> 45° nose up/down on most V engines.
>>>
>>> https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-701001/none/images
>>>
>>> Got to be one of the most adjustable I've seen for lifting/positioning an
>>> engine.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if it would work on a TZE.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Thanks to all for comments. Since I have the lifting plate, I'm going to follow Jim Hupy's advice and go ahead. I was hoping someone could send me
the carb mounting bolt sizes, I guess I'll just have to pull one to see to use Jim's method.

The engine I'm getting is on a pallet, removed from a Toronado and has a good recommendation. Thank goodness I'm not having to remove it from a GMC.
But all of your instructions would certainly help me if I did and may help my mechanic in the future. My GMC is slowly losing Oil Pressure, I'm down
to the mid 20's under load, It's got 105K miles on it, as best as I can figure, but maybe more, and I'm concerned a rebuild is in my future, so I'd
like to have this good core to rebuild when the time comes.

No one indicated that there was any document or source of translation from GMC part numbers to detailed part descriptions, so I'm guessing it doesn't
exist. Too Bad.
--
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
 
For a margin of safety go with tread depth at 1 1/2 times the diameter of
the bolt.

5/16" bolt would need a minimum of 1/2" of thread depth plus the thickness
of the plate, so a 3/4" thread length should be good.

> Take some 5/16" and 3/8" bolts with you.
>
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>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
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